Yeah the recall was for that happening to the cars.The moisture was getting in them and detoriating them.If that did happen to you there is a chance the axle is bent from it.
Ok i just got off work and had friend swing me by the car to get better look at it and it from what i can see(hard to look cause front side is basically sitting on ground) it does look like the ball joint came out from the lower control arm. Ill give the dealer a call tomorrow morning and have em run it, from what ive seen the recall was listed in like 1999 then another one 6months later in 2000. Heres to praying it wasnt done on my car and I can get it covered otherwise ill be sleeping in a cardboard box lol
Yeah the recall was for that happening to the cars.The moisture was getting in them and detoriating them.If that did happen to you there is a chance the axle is bent from it.
Galantlvr34 is right, that failure is related to the recall. You are probably going to have to fight with the dealership a bit but what you describe happening to your car is exactly what the recall was suppose to prevent. Call a dealership with your VIN and ask if your car was fixed under the recall before mentioning anything to them about it going out and causing an accident. The axle is gone if the wheel was lying flat on the ground. Ideally they should have to repair all the damage to your car but expect them to give you a hard time. Mention reporting your accident to the National Highway Safety Administration if they give you any grief. You should go on line and look up information about this recall so you can quote it to them. Even if the car was fixed under the recall you have nothing to lose by turning to Mits. Given the other problems you have had with the car you could offer to let the dealer buy the car from you for the $1300 you paid for it as it might be cheaper than the repair especially if there is body damage. Post some pictures of the damage to your car in the graveyard section (or here if it is easier). Just curious, how many miles on your car?
Here is the basic recall info on the ball joint/lower control arm
Recall ID # 6945 - SUSPENSION:FRONT:CONTROL ARM:LOWER BALL JOINT Full Details
Recall Date APR 05, 1999
Component SUSPENSION:FRONT:CONTROL ARM:LOWER BALL JOINT
Summary:
VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: PASSENGER VEHICLES. IF THE RUBBER BOOTS ON THE LOWER LATERAL ARM BALL JOINTS OF THE FRONT SUSPENSION WERE DAMAGED DURING ASSEMBLY, DIRT AND WATER CAN INTRUDE.
Consequences:
THIS CONDITION COULD CAUSE THE LOWER LATERAL ARM BALL JOINT TO SEPARATE, INCREASING THE RISK OF A VEHICLE CRASH.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL INSPECT THE RUBBER BOOTS, AND IF THE BOOT IS DAMAGED, THEY WILL REPLACE THE LOWER LATERAL ARM AND BALL JOINT ON THE AFFECTED VEHICLES.
Affected Galant
Potential Units Affected 307000
Recall Date:APR 05, 1999Model Affected:1994 Mitsubishi GalantSummary:VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: PASSENGER VEHICLES. IF THE RUBBER BOOTS ON THE LOWER LATERAL ARM BALL JOINTS OF THE FRONT SUSPENSION WERE DAMAGED DURING ASSEMBLY, DIRT AND WATER CAN INTRUDE.Consequences:THIS CONDITION COULD CAUSE THE LOWER LATERAL ARM BALL JOINT TO SEPARATE, INCREASING THE RISK OF A VEHICLE CRASH.Remedy:DEALERS WILL INSPECT THE RUBBER BOOTS, AND IF THE BOOT IS DAMAGED, THEY WILL REPLACE THE LOWER LATERAL ARM AND BALL JOINT ON THE AFFECTED VEHICLES.Potential Units Affected:307000Notes:MITSUBISHI AMERICA
Recall ID # 6946 - SUSPENSION:FRONT:CONTROL ARM:LOWER BALL JOINT Full Details
Recall Date DEC 18, 2000
Component SUSPENSION:FRONT:CONTROL ARM:LOWER BALL JOINT
Summary:
VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: PASSENGER VEHICLES. IF THE RUBBER BOOTS ON THE LOWER LATERAL ARM BALL JOINTS OF THE FRONT SUSPENSION WERE DAMAGED DURING ASSEMBLY, DIRT AND WATER CAN INTRUDE. ALSO, MMC HAS ADDED THE POTENTIAL OF LEAKING MOISTURE, WHICH CAN CAUSE THE BALL STUD TO CORRODE.
Consequences:
THIS CONDITION COULD CAUSE THE LOWER LATERAL ARM BALL JOINT TO SEPARATE, INCREASING THE RISK OF A VEHICLE CRASH. THIS CAMPAIGN SUPERCEDES MMC'S PREVIOUS SAFETY RECALL CAMPAIGN, SEE 99V-066.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL INSPECT THE LOWER LATERAL ARM BALL JOINT FOR WEAR. BALL JOINTS THAT EXHIBIT WEAR BEYOND THE ESTABLISHED TOLERANCE WILL BE REPLACED WITH NEWLY DESIGNED LATERAL ARM BALL JOINTS. BALL JOINTS THAT ARE WITHIN THE ESTABLISHED TOLERANCE WILL BE CLEANED AND A SPECIAL SEALANT WILL BE APPLIED TO PREVENT INTRUSION OF MOISTURE.
Affected Galant
Potential Units Affected 567432
jjj
98 ES (5 spd), 94 GS (5 spd), 94 ES (rebuilt auto), 92 Toyota 4X4, 81 KZ550 A2, 67 Mercedes 250S, 58 Mercedes 190SL
Thanks thats what i found when looking for info on the recall, ill find out tomorrow if it had been done before or not. No idea whats been done as ive only had the car for yr this nov. Off the top of my head think there was like 170k miles on it. The wheel is still somewhat attached but the space is so tight with the car low and the wheel blocking everything it was hard to see exactly what was broken. Shop i towed it to opens at 8 and gonna have them just take a peek at it and give a rough estimate incase I have to pay to fix it, dealer doesnt open till like 9 so well see what happens. Least I dont have to jump my car for the next day or two haha =\
Oh yeah another note i went to the mits website and found link for free carfax recall report but when i entered my vin it said no open recalls reported to carfax. Ill find out tomorrow for sure but thought id ask here if anyone knows, does that mean its already been fixed or that carfax just isnt seeing the recall? Really wish i could just put in my vin and it tell me when/if its been done
Called mits today, there isnt a local shop thats a dealer so had to call one about 3hrs away in another state and they are saying there arnt any open recalls for my vin and that my car probably wasnt effected by the recall, any ideas now? Do i just eat it and get it fixed at a shop now?
Ok so i called mits north america 800# and talked to someone over the phone just now, they said my car had recall work done 4/01 but that it has like 12kmiles/12yr warrenty or something and they ended up opening up a claim for me. Dont know if they are just following procedure or what but someone is supposed to call me tomorrow about it. Still doubting ill get it covered but theres small window of hope i guess.
I would just suck it up and get it done. Ball joints are a wear item and you should expect to replace them preferably before it snaps. Curious, did the front seem a bit loose before it gave out? The shop will likely inspect the other joints and tierods as well and suggest their replacement. You might want to take pictures, hold onto the broken parts and submit a claim to Mitsubishi though,but don't count on them coming through.
I had no idea anything was wrong, no loose feeling or even sounds from the front end, one sec im turning left, next sec im dead stop in the middle of an intersection. If i just had the cash to fix it I would, the economy sucks where i live and im lucky to have the part time job I do( even McD's isnt hiring right now) so cash is hard to come by. Almost 1/2 the people i work with also donate blood for $ just to pay bills, it sucks
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Galant-Sebri...item1e65d99cb9
And about an hour of work depending on how quick you work.
1996 galant s
finishing up my 2.4L DOHC, 10.5:1, precision sc60, meth injected MONSTER.
Idk if u found the issue but I had same issue I disconnected my trunk light and doom light and anything I didn't use and came find out my clock was draining it so after I put a killswitch n I disconnected my clock and all is well so maybe that help if u still haven't located Ur issue put killswitch n problem fixed lol
Dang u have all kinds of shit happening bro did u just buy this 7g? I've had mines 5yrs and love it... I replaced all my arms and joints with brand new ones and pollyurathan bushings :-).... Hope things are okay and btw where u live? Economy is that bad? Detroit? ATL is bad ATM but this occupy bs is killing me bums need stop mooching
Could you post some picture of the damage?
jjj
98 ES (5 spd), 94 GS (5 spd), 94 ES (rebuilt auto), 92 Toyota 4X4, 81 KZ550 A2, 67 Mercedes 250S, 58 Mercedes 190SL
Ill try to get some tomorrow, been hard with no transportation. Been having to borrow my girlfriends moms car to get to work and back. Finally heard back from corporate office about my recall and they told me recall service was performed back in 01 and only carries 12k miles/12 month warranty so im sol there. Got a quote from shop saying they want to charge like $450 (said lower control needs to be replaced along with the cv axle, cb boot is tore not sure what other dmg there is to it yet) That was price for just right side, came out to like $220 in labor (they quoting like 3hrs) and 230 in parts but they were way more then autozone, found an axle for $53 and control arm for $55. Im going down there tomorrow to talk to them and try to start getting work done now that ive wasted week waiting on Mitsubishi.
They arent great but couldnt find my camera so had to shoot em with my cell phone and not much room with the car on the ground.
Dont pay attention to the leaves lol, thats the ball joint that pulled out the control arm, couldnt get any type of shot on the axle really.
Finally got my bar back today, damage was $200 from the shop, guess it could of been worse. The other side is fine and doesnt need to be replaced. Back on to topic haha still looking for drain, Ill check out the clock tomorrow and see if thats an issue. I did pull the trunk light awhile ago and ill pull the dome light, always have it turned off but cant hurt. One new thing today I just noticed my brake lights arent working, Found a relay under the hood that looks bad, metal contacts are black, fuse inside car is still good though.
Thats a great deal for shop pricing. Congrats.!
There any way to tell or test the ruse relays under the hood? Was checking why my brake lights went out and pulled the relay and its got some black marks on the prongs so thought id pull another of the same type to test but every relay there all has the black marks so cant tell whats good or not. =\
Well I might just be having a good day, think i found the drain and problem with my tail lights. I tested the horn and that relay worked so put that in brake light spot and still no lights, pulled the inside fuse again and it wasnt broke or black but one of the sides did look like it was melted little, so replaced the fuse and now my brake lights work, but also I was reading the voltage on battery with car off. It was reading 11.84 and droping .01% every 30sec or so( had it sitting since 2pm yesterday) after i swapped out the fuse its now NOT droping in voltage and to my surprise actually climbed from 11.84 to 11.88 in about 5mins..Is that normal for the battery to charge/increase in voltage with the car off??
Checked my battery couple hrs ago and now its reading 12.05v
Bookmarks