Valve lifter noise

[oakrdrs187]

^^ No tick since the change to AMSOIL?

[Isaurio]

Yeap. Correct.

[oakrdrs187]

Sweet. I should invest.

[OMEGA PHX]

Yeap. Correct.

Did you replaced/bleed the lifters and then started using AMSoil or you had the tick and just changed the oil brand

[tamim13]

When I switched, I just switched to Amsoil Signature and it went away, no work on my lifters.

[Isaurio]

Did you replaced/bleed the lifters and then started using AMSoil or you had the tick and just changed the oil brand

Correct. No need to bleed the lifters. First i would do a oil flush first. Put one quart of marvel mistery oil. Run the car for a day or two. Flush and change oil.

[FrozenMBA]

what is the amsoil? or was it the change from 10w-30 to 5w30? or both?

[tamim13]

Amsoil is a brand of Oil, that we changed to. www.amsoil.com. I use 0w-30.

[Isaurio]

i using what the engine needs to use. 5w-30 AmsOil brand. You could go 0w-30 for the winter since is thinner. 10w-30 for really hot summers to cool off the internal better. But 5w-30 is good for all seasons here in NY. Like i said you need to flush the oil one a while to get the bad deposit build up out. Marvel mystery oil or the amsoil engine flush.

[thegalant]

I cleaned all of my lash adjusters a couple years ago in 4 separate diesel baths while using a paper clip to work the piston up and down and clean them out they were super nasty and black goo came out of a few of them especially. I pumped htem up with oil and put them back in the head and tic was gone!!!! BUT the tic came back about a week later even on a fresh oil change of Mobil 1 full syn. It's the only oil this car has ever known. How do you adjust the lifters? So you spin the piston? or what? I got major tic when it's cold out, it gos away when the car is fully warmed up. But it takes a long time for that to happen. A whole set is like 64 bucks on ebay. Can some one tell me what the new updated version is? What part number or how to identify it while shopping. I use mobile 1 full synthetic, denso IK22 iridium plugs, gates belts and hoses, outlander intake mani. Perhaps the pump is worn out, it has almost 200K on it. But it's always been a good runner, but recently it's gotten pretty slow. It needs a new cat. Bad cat is causing bad mpg!

[StealthGTZ]

Try Castrol High Mileage 5w-30. I had lifter tick running regular Castrol 5w-30. It started when I hit about 72K on the clock. I tried Rislone and some other flush to no effect.
I switched over to the Castrol High Mileage 5w-30 (a "semi-synthetic" oil) and the tick has gone away. I change my oil around 4500 mi and use a Purolator One filter. Just now hit 99K on the clock.

[Brianfly]

Just a little update on my car. One thing I've learned with this car is that the last adjusters have a tendency to receive debris. That meaning that it's a particularly small hole that feeds through the camshaft up to the lifters through the rocker arms. So if you're using an oil like mobile one which causes your motor to become completely coded into greasy sick yellow oil varnish you are now affecting the fine tolerance is of oil flow to your lifters. Unfortunately this is bad or this type of valve train. Although the Golden oil varnish is not inherently bad to most motors. It has its drawback when it coach the inside of the lifters and the inside of the rocker arm and the inside of the camshaft from which team oil pressure comes from and on down through the head and the block back to the oil pump. I would go as far to say the this would be in issue new matter what kind of oil you used. Because they're isn't a great and proper way to keep these lifters flushing clean all the time. They're going to receive the breathe don't get flushed out and eventually it will build up inside them. Honestly the best thing you can do is just replace them. I took mine out and cleaned of them and put them back in. But here's a little tirade I gave a YouTube viewer.

This is totally and completely normal and too common for this motor. Your valve Adjusters AKA hydraulic lash Adjusters are clogged up. Now in Mitsubishi these aren't technically referred to as hydraulic lash adjusters but that's what they do. They control the Lash of the valve traveling up. So will the way you fix this problem his by revving your motor from 0 RPM to 3000 RPM over the course of 15 seconds followed by dropping the gas once you hit 3000 RPM allowing the car to rest for 15 seconds and repeating. You may need to do this about 50 times to flush the oil through the Adjusters. If that doesn't do the trick and a lot of time it doesn't. You may have to remove them to clean them out. You use a paperclip to depress the ball valve in the center while submerged in diesel fuel and that will clean these things out perfectly. Or alternatively you can use Zep purple Degreaser if you like. Just remember not to fill them with oil if you're going to put them back in. If you're going to store them outside the car then yes Prime them full of oil. But if you're going to put them back in the car do not prime them as the car needs to fill them on its own for proper Lash. You could bend a valve if there are full of oil when you put them back in. It is possible for lash adjusters to go bad over time as well. It sounds to me like you have one bad one. I have the same thing with my car but it's not as bad as yours. The oil pump in this car is geared three two one and you can feel how it is weighted when you spin it with the timing belt off. Most of the time when some asshole does a timing service on these cars they have no clue how Mitsubishi Motors work. The oil pump is geared three to one. So it's possible that whoever did your timing service fuck that up and has your oil pump out of time. And finally it is possible that something is clogging your oil pickup screen. Especially if you don't use synthetic oil or if you are using a varnish creating oil like Mobil 1 synthetic. It will coat the inside of your motor in a yellow or golden colored varnish which Titans the tolerances in the hydraulic lash adjusters and the oil galleries. The camshaft has an oil port in it that is connected to your sump and oil is pushed through that hole into your lash adjusters. It's very small but if you take it apart you can see it. Don't reinstall it backwards because there's no hole on the other side. one thing you can try before you start taking the valve cover off is doing an oil change with diesel fuel. Try putting a gallon and a half or two gallons of diesel into the crankcase and running the motor revving the motor as instructed above to Prime them with diesel fuel. This will potentially unclog the adjuster's. Lastly you should use a motor oil like motul full synthetic because it will not leave behind a golden oil varnish. That oil varnish is very greasy and difficult to clean off. It's worse than Coke buildup. At least you can get Coke off, the varnish is resistant to cleaning. And it literally coached the inside of your motor anything it touches. You can scrape it off and notice what I'm talking about.


So the bottom line is you really need to use a very good oil filter. This will prevent coke particles from depositing in your lifters. Now I don't want to get in and argument with anybody but the fact of the matter is your not going to find a better filter then mann. There micron ratings are the best. If you want to go with the boutique filter I recommend Baldwin. There's actually some filters out there that have to filters inside. One which filters 3-6 microns and also a 20-30 micron filter. This is food for thought. Its all starting with the oil. Remember to change your oil frequently. If you really want to get technical go into the owners manual and read. It specifically recommend you not use synthetic oil and this car. You have to find an oil that does not leave behind yellow oil varnish. Because that's not helping. I recommend motul or Rotel t6 if you want to find it at Walmart.

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