Is my car REALLY Overheating? Hmmm....

[finald8ta]

My car is fine, I have had issues with over heating but I air in the system, my solution was to park the car on a hill let it run, add water when it was low and fill up the resivior check it the next day top it off and I was good, I check my fluids once a week and keep an eye on the temp,

Another trick was when my ultragauge went above 220 I was low on coolent and air was in the system, once I topped it off everything was normal,

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[tamim13]

So you're saying the temps going between 198 - 210 is normal? I definitely do not feel my car is normal when it is reading 208.4 on the ultraguage. Did you read g-spot's post that I had linked to in my first reply?

[finald8ta]

I see it this way the sensor that controls the fans is in the block witch produces higher temps,
The one on top that goes to the cluster thats near the tstat witch will have a slightly lower reading,

Hell I could be wrong on what I said, Idk

most cars run at 180+ temps
The temp sensor for the cluster could be reading 180' and the one in the block can be at 200' for the ecu

I've been data logging a lot and the engine temp is at or near 200'
And its reading the sensor that's un the block




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[tamim13]

I see it this way the sensor that controls the fans is in the block witch produces higher temps,
The one on top that goes to the cluster thats near the tstat witch will have a slightly lower reading,

Hell I could be wrong on what I said, Idk

You're totally right about this part. I've seen it happen, as I've been watching this behaviour happen, over and over again. The ultraguage shows it's higher, but the temp gauge is still low, and vice-versa. It has to be because they are closer to different sections of the engine, which heat up differently.

Either way, I'm pretty sure the one that I replaced is the one from the first picture, the ECM sensor (you don't happen to have the part number right?), as the one I got was brass and didn't have that one wire you mentioned, going to it. Since this hasn't fixed my problem, and I know I don't have air or coolant issues, my next step is the relay. I'm trying to figure out the correct part number for this. But I end up hitting all different part numbers. This weekend, I need to do some research.

[finald8ta]

Tbh I think you have air in your system, did you run the car with the heat on full blast and add coolent till you couldnt any more?

If your not getting heat that means your heater core is not full of coolent to pass threw and you have air in the system,

Run the car with the cap off turn the heat on and watch the radiator coolent drop, once that happens add more coolent, this will take up to 30-60 mins of doing then once you can't add anymore put the cap on, fill the resivor, take it for a drive for a few mins check to see if you have heat, head home let the car cool off, then check the fluids again,
I just went threw this awhile ago but I have a bad ratiator,


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[Redhaze]

^ what he said also make sure you have the green anti freeze i remember my car would reject the other brands like i had a coolant leak it would always evaporate or something but when i drain all the old out and just but green in everything was fine. also make sure you have the right mixture to endure this heat. dont want to much water itll cause boiling.

[finald8ta]

Thanx redhaze,

Also want to mention I'm running straight water right now,

I have my reasons so don't go and bash me, plan on doing a new waterpump timing kit in the next few weeks

No point in wasting 15$ in coolent.
So temps might be abit lower then 200' with antifreeze

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[finald8ta]

full operating temp is 212`

[cscotty]

Wow, thanks everyone for all this information. I'm going to check for air in the system again and see what I can find.

Unfortunately, I failed at replacing the coolant temp sensor (fist pic). I couldnt get the 3/8 loose to do so. Just curious, what tools did you use to remove it? Also the manual says I have to drain the coolant first. Is this really necessary?

Thanks,
Scott

[tamim13]

Tbh I think you have air in your system, did you run the car with the heat on full blast and add coolent till you couldnt any more?

If your not getting heat that means your heater core is not full of coolent to pass threw and you have air in the system,

Run the car with the cap off turn the heat on and watch the radiator coolent drop, once that happens add more coolent, this will take up to 30-60 mins of doing then once you can't add anymore put the cap on, fill the resivor, take it for a drive for a few mins check to see if you have heat, head home let the car cool off, then check the fluids again,
I just went threw this awhile ago but I have a bad ratiator,


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Ok, couple of things on this suggestion.

1. I had read this suggestion of yours elsewhere and tried doing what you said, but when you open the radiator cap and run the engine with heat on full, the coolant comes up and out of the radiator... it does not go down, like you mentioned. So I gave up on the idea, as I did not want coolant all over my floor or engine. I also pressed on the upper hose and the coolant comes up, I believe it should not if there's air in the system.
2. I got my coolant flushed at the mitsu dealer, hoping that they would have the right tools/methods to get all the air out of the system. I told them to make sure there was no air at the end, so I guess they would have done that and there should be no air in the system. System still overheats to 208 or so.
3. Based on the other suggestion of only using green coolant, I've always and will always only use Mitsu coolant mixed with 50% distilled water.

Now, based on 1, and assuming 2 was not done right, am I supposed to allow the coolant to come out of the top of the radiator and just wait until it starts going down to follow your process?

[cscotty]

If the brass one has one wire on it then its the guage only, ill get a pic up here shortly

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How do I get to that brass bolt? I'm trying to use all my tools and have no space to remove the sensor?

Thanks,
Scott