i got a leak and it falling right on top of the starter. I am not sure if it was from the distributor but i have sinced changed that. going to have to take the starter out to see where its coming from if i can't see it while its on.
I have a 2000 GTZ and its starting leak. I have replaced the O-rings on the cam thrust cap and on the distributer. I have also replaced the valve cover and spark tower gaskets. Now I also notice oil dripping from the area just above the hydraulic timing belt tensioner. It’s a new leak since the area is still clean. The car has just over 210000 miles on it. For those of you with high mileage cars, have you also developed leaks? If so where? I have a feeling that I am going to be doing a lot of labor just for replacing seals and O-rings and if I can locate all the potential leak points I can do it in one shot.
i got a leak and it falling right on top of the starter. I am not sure if it was from the distributor but i have sinced changed that. going to have to take the starter out to see where its coming from if i can't see it while its on.
how bad is it leaking? after you fix a leak does it stop? on a high mileage car its tuff to make a call on it, do you keep fixing leaks or do you start looking for replacement motor or car.
just as an example my tahoe has a few leaks that arent that bad, one is a rear main seal, another is the front of the motor but i cant pin point it yet and the other is the front pinion seal is leaking but at 174k its hard for me justify the money to fix them cause there not small jobs and i would rather just replace the whole truck then spend thousands in labor to replace seals.
since there not bad leaks ill run the tahoe for another year and just replace it the whole truck.
Maybe take the gtz In for a timing belt job and supply all the parts for the cam seals etc from mitsu and some rtv grey and say thanks bro.
did you check to make sure that the head cover have a good seal? man the first time I did it i did it all wrong and then did it the right way the second time. you should be able to see where the edges of the covers are if its wet or slide your hands in the back there the cover meet the engine or the side where the belt is.
also i used the RTV to hold a gasket in and it was the worst mistake i ever done as long you put the gasket is on correctly cause it only fits one way although it looks like it can fit both ways. I learned the hard way lol
Also did u have the pdf manual so you could get the procedure? I did use very very light dose of rtv around tops of spark plug cylinder seals, and camshaft front seal. Also torqueing cover to spec would help just to be sure instead of by feel if u didn't maybe post on what plan you followed.
Looks like for now I may just continue driving it and see what happens. Doesn’t drip any more since I replaced the O-rings for the cam thrust cap and distributer but since I found the new leak I have a drip tray in the drive way just in case. I can do the timing belt change myself just don’t have the special tool to set the hydraulic tensioner. I have seen kits on the internet that include belt, all tensioner hardware, both idlers, water pump, and cam and main seals for less than 500.00. I just don’t know if I should invest the time. Want to start on my 66 GTO and I need the whole garage for that.
This is where it's leaking now. Don't know where its coming from. Checked the valve cover and not from there. I hope it's not the camshaft seal. Don't know i this is a clue bu the car sat with the drivers side elevated for a couple of days and thats when I noticed it was leakin when it left a drip on the floor. Dont know if I had any in to do with it, maybe just a coincidence that I started workin on the car when this leak started.
Hmm. Mine seems to be leaking from the same exact place but mine is leaking coolant. Ive tried searching but i couldnt find anything. What engine do you have. I have the 6g72. I first noticed my leak on Monday. I drove the car about 2 1/2 hours to Pasadena. At first it looked like it was leaking from behind the oil pan but I didn't really check because my wife was going to get eye surgery so I was in a bit of a hurry. I finally checked it yesterday and it appears to be at the same spot as your leak.
Sorry if the pictures are bad. I really want to figure this out because I need to go back next Thursday.
if you are leaking in the same area i think that is the water pump. When was your belt changed and pump changed? also check your radiator to see if there is oil in there.
I have the 6g72 also. I would agree with “Dominicano”. You may want to remove the one of the upper timing belt covers to see if your timing belt is drenched with coolant. From the looks of it seems that you are leaking quite a bit. Below is a pic of what it looks like under the timing cover(s). In the center is the water pump. You may want to take one of the upper timing belt covers off (the one on the front bank is easiest) and check if your timing belt is drenched in coolant. If so you may want to strongly consider to stop driving it and take it in to change the timing belt ( and all other related items since its opened up) and water pump. Coolant degrades the belt and the 6G72 is an “interference” motor. If the belt snaps or slips your valves and pistons WILL collide!
Today I will be checking if I have oil on my timing belt. I’m suspecting that I have a leaking camshaft seal. Hopefully I don’t have any oil on it.
My cam seals were leaking about a quart every oil change so when I had my timing belt changed (125k miles) I had them change the cam and crank seals, it leaked worse. Turns out that the 3L is known for the cam seals wearing a groove in the cams so when you put new seals in they do not fit tight. My garage and I communicate very well and they are good, they found a thing called a seal saver, it's a thin steel sleeve that is heated and then slid over the cam end, as it cools it fits tight and thus a new seal surface. Its kinda like the old bearing savers that has been used on axles for a long time. It isn't cheap, but its a lot cheaper than replacing the cams.
There's also something called Blue Devil Rear Main Sealer that is reported to work well. I used it in my 92 Cherokee (240k miles) which had a bad main seal leak and it reduced the leak a lot. White Shepherd Rear Main Sealer is also good, I think that they are made by the same company.
Last edited by shadow83; 07-23-2012 at 12:44 AM
2002 ES, V6, 140K
Damn that sucks I'm gonna pay close attention 2 mines that's 4 damn sure lol
GWAP STACKIN MAKE'S IT HAPPEN
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