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Thread: grommet for stereo power wire?

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  1. #1
    bluedraco
    Guest

    grommet for stereo power wire?

    hi everyone - i'm new to the board and only had my galant for one week...i'm loving it so far!

    anyway, i have an australian 1990 galant gsr and was wondering if anyone knows which firewall grommet (if there is a suitable one) that i can use for the power wire for my amps?

    the only one i can see that is suitable is the one where the steering wheel shaft goes through the firewall...i was thinking of making a hole in this close the side of the grommet as it is a large grommet and i'm trying it avoid it touching the shaft (which it will avoid, even though it probably doesn't matter too much)...

    can anyone help me please?

  2. #2
    ConceptSleeper
    Guest
    i personally would just drill a better location, then install a new gromet then run the wire!!

  3. #3
    bluedraco
    Guest
    yeah, i think i'll probably do that...i just have to go and buy a rubber grommet first and then i should be right...i'll make sure i don't damage anything when drilling!!!

  4. #4
    J apmetal
    Guest
    Look on the opposite side of the firewall, in the place where the column would go thru if the car was LHD - there should be a few holes stopped up with grommets that you can put a hole through and use for your power wire

  5. #5
    JF
    Guest
    drill the new hole.....and make sure to look both ways before drilling

  6. #6

    No need for new holes

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(JF)</div><div class='quotemain'>drill the new hole.....and make sure to look both ways before drilling</div>

    There is absolutely no need to drill new holes in a 6G.
    There is a rugged factory grommet installed, which will easily swallow triple 0/1 gauge cables if you need it to. I have run a 2 gauge cable through it with space left for running like 3-4 more 2 gauge cables if I'd had the need for it....

    My car is a Left Hand Drive though, but on a Right Hand Drive there should be an equally large grommet on the opposite side. On my LHD the grommet sits in the wall right in front of the glove compartment, so to speak.

    I'll provide pictures of its location if anyone's interested, as soon as my car comes back from the body shop. (And no, not Body Shop as in "We only sell shampoo that's not been feckin' tested on friggin' animals")

    Jan Kenneth
    --- Hell Hath No Fury Like My 4G63 ---

    www.silvergalant.com

  7. #7
    J apmetal
    Guest
    On my RHD I had to remove my screen-wash reservoir to find the grommet, but it's definately there.

    Why drill more holes in your car when there are already more than enough due to the LHD/RHD compatibility of all Galant chassis ?

  8. #8
    ken inn
    Guest
    what pro_sniper is talking about, is if you remove the plastic inner fender splash panel, on the back part of the wheel well, upper, there is a HUGE grommet, if you remove it, you can almost put your arm in there. on a rhd car, it might not be there, but it is worth a look. comes in right above the control unit. i got my main power cable going thru there.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by ken inn
    what pro_sniper is talking about, is if you remove the plastic inner fender splash panel, on the back part of the wheel well, upper, there is a HUGE grommet, if you remove it, you can almost put your arm in there. on a rhd car, it might not be there, but it is worth a look. comes in right above the control unit. i got my main power cable going thru there.
    Seems there are more grommets in that car than I was aware of, because you don't have to remove anything to get to the one I'm talking about.
    But the more the merrier, right?
    --- Hell Hath No Fury Like My 4G63 ---

    www.silvergalant.com

  10. #10
    JF
    Guest
    so lets see, you take this big 2" knock-out out of your firewall to run a 4awg wire? (i don't see you running anything bigger in a unless you are competing) am i the only one that sees a problem with this? 1st you are opening your interior to the elements water, snow, salt, dirt can all get in that huge opening you now have. 2nd you have that little cable in that big hole, the cable will move. so unless you have a rubber grommet big enuff to cap the edges, your cable will get frayed and short out-best case senario. if you haven't already, drill the hole through the firewall on the battery side of the car, install a rubber grommet, and run the cable up that side into the trunk.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by JF
    so lets see, you take this big 2" knock-out out of your firewall to run a 4awg wire? (i don't see you running anything bigger in a unless you are competing) am i the only one that sees a problem with this? 1st you are opening your interior to the elements water, snow, salt, dirt can all get in that huge opening you now have. 2nd you have that little cable in that big hole, the cable will move. so unless you have a rubber grommet big enuff to cap the edges, your cable will get frayed and short out-best case senario. if you haven't already, drill the hole through the firewall on the battery side of the car, install a rubber grommet, and run the cable up that side into the trunk.
    Who the hell said anything about REMOVING the damn thing????
    Most people with brains would of course just make a small hole in that "big 2" knock-out" and run the wire through it. Then, if they are worried about water and stuff, they could just just put some silicone around the cable where it enters the grommet - like I did (although that's somewhat of an overkill, as the silicone isn't really necessary)!
    So no, there will not be a huge opening. You will not open up your interior to the elements. And no, the cable won't move. And it will not "get frayed" (which spells "get fried" for real people).

    As for the size of the cable, 4awg could be enough for his system, but then again - it may not be. It all depends on the amount of current passing through the cable. There are some wire size calculators out there on the web, but many of them are crap as they tell you to use a thinner cable than what you really need. The cost increase of a length of 2awg compared to a 4awg of the same length is so small, I would install a 2awg anyway, anyday. This gives you the opportunity to add amplifiers to your system later, without having to run a new power cable.

    "But I ain't gonna be needin' it, cause I ain't gettin' no mo' amps!"
    Not right now you're not, but then someone comes along and offers to lend you their big-ass mono amp and a sub box. And you have to pass on it, because if you run a large amplifier of a cable that's too thin, the amp's power supply unit could go bust. And this isn't just talk, I've seen this shit happen TWO times with expensive, powerful, high-quality amps, because the guys that owned them were thinking "duh, it' just an extra amp, it's not like I'm competing or anything, I'll just run it off the same cable as my old one..."


    All my years in the car audio install business have at least taught me this:
    [size=18]<span style='color:blue'>Experience is king!</span>


    Jan Kenneth
    --- Hell Hath No Fury Like My 4G63 ---

    www.silvergalant.com

  12. #12
    JF
    Guest
    about "removing the damn thing" ...you should be a little more specific when giving instructions then........having him look for factory knock-outs in the fire wall implies using them what they are there for.....to knock them out, if he is jut drilling a hole through the thing why bother going behind the dash and sh*t to find it, when you can put the hole in a more conveinent place? as far as the silicone goes.........unless your using an AUTOMOTIVE high heat silicone i wouldn't put it anywhere near your engine....silicone melts under high heat. but i'm sure that is what you meant...........and frayed is spelled just that way and means "to wear or to shred".......to real people.
    Since i'm picking apart everything now........too small a power cable is not gonna make "your amps power supply unit go bust". It just won't perform as well....noticably. if you've sen it happen twice it was an underlying problem or wasn't that high-quality of an amp.

    and experiance ain't sh*t, craftsmenship is king.....its making sure every detail is immaculate. anyone with enuff reading can hook-up wires and cables.....its technique and attention to detail that seperates one install from another.........

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by JF
    about "removing the damn thing" ...you should be a little more specific when giving instructions then........having him look for factory knock-outs in the fire wall implies using them what they are there for.....to knock them out, if he is jut drilling a hole through the thing why bother going behind the dash and sh*t to find it, when you can put the hole in a more conveinent place? as far as the silicone goes.........unless your using an AUTOMOTIVE high heat silicone i wouldn't put it anywhere near your engine....silicone melts under high heat. but i'm sure that is what you meant...........and frayed is spelled just that way and means "to wear or to shred".......to real people.
    Since i'm picking apart everything now........too small a power cable is not gonna make "your amps power supply unit go bust". It just won't perform as well....noticably. if you've sen it happen twice it was an underlying problem or wasn't that high-quality of an amp.

    and experiance ain't sh*t, craftsmenship is king.....its making sure every detail is immaculate. anyone with enuff reading can hook-up wires and cables.....its technique and attention to detail that seperates one install from another.........
    So when the dude is looking for a grommet to run a factory wire THROUGH, I tell him where he can find a large one, and you automatically assume that he will remove the thing because my instructions aren't good enough? I wish you'd have some faith in other people.....please.........

    As I'm sure you know, Silicone and Silicone is not the same thing. Of course it's not wise to take the same shit you use in the bathroom and use it in your engine bay.......

    Experience IS king, because craftmanship comes with that territory (for some people it may take a while though)

    About "frayed" - I'm sure you're right, and I'm sorry I didn't think of that.


    Check this one out:
    Why bother going behind the dash when you can drill a hole?
    Why bother drilling a hole when you can go behind the dash?

    We're not talking about a surgical procedure here, it's a matter of unscrewing a couple of screws and reach in there with your hand. A monkey can do it...


    Oh, and you're not picking everything apart, you're just proving that you obviously have the infamous attitude problem "I can't stand to have people correct me, 'cause I'm right period." ......

    As I said in my last post: "I've seen this shit happen TWO times with expensive, powerful, high-quality amps"
    But then again, maybe you didn't care to read it that thoroughly since I didn't share your opinions?
    The amps that I've seen that have had their power supplies busted, were Audison mono amps. As you know if you've got some time in this business, Audison is just about as good as amplifiers get.
    These specific mono amps are rated as professional amps by the factory and distributor (no BS btw), with a minimum suggested cable size of 16mm2 cross-section(not sure how that translates to awg, probably 6-ish). I would say that anything less than 25mm2 (4awg) is close to foolish on these amps. There's a reason why the amps' terminals accept 4awg... The ones that went bust were hooked up with 10mm....
    There was no underlying problem to one specific car, as the amps were in two separate cars.
    10mm2 - that's begging for them to go bust. And this can happen to other high-current amps too, make no mistake about it (as George Jr. would say)


    I totally agree with you that technique and attention to detail makes all the difference. I just wish you'd be able to check out my installs IRL one day, and you would see I share that philosophy to full extent.
    I've got customers driving hundreds and hundreds of miles, whether they have old Toyotas, new Benzes or tricked-out Porsches, to have me do installs for them. That's how good a reputation my company has. And you don't get that good a reputation if you don't really deserve it, at least not here in Norway!

    How the hell did we get into this argument anyway?
    The guy that asked the question has probably installed his power wire weeks ago

    Jan Kenneth
    --- Hell Hath No Fury Like My 4G63 ---

    www.silvergalant.com

  14. #14
    J apmetal
    Guest
    OK, to return to topic;

    Blowing your amp up is the best-case scenario for running your amp on wire that is too thin; The worst-case is that the excessive power requirements will cause the wire shrouding to melt, shorting the cable & maybe even setting fire to the interior trim [depending where the short occurs] so even if you dont think you'll need it, it does no harm to go larger than you need right now :idea:

  15. #15
    bluedraco
    Guest
    yup, i did install it weeks and weeks ago

    i ended up just drilling a new hole and installing a grommet...i couldn't actually see any big enough grommets anywhere...

    thanks anyway guys - i would have never thought people would argue about it though???


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