Originally Posted by
wetamup2k3g
I would get a set of component speakers for the fronts and change the amp to one with a higher high-pass-filter crossover network. This makes it possible to run an active crossover network and get the best sound possible. However, if you really wanted to keep that amp you can and just run the passive hpf crossover that comes with a decent set of component speakers. Mount the included tweeters in the sail panels (the pieces behind the side mirrors on the front doors) or the a-pillars to raise your soundstage and bring out the mids and highs.
For lows, you need a sub, no way around it. A sub plays lows better than anything and also lets your interior speakers focus on what they do best, mids and highs. You don't need a wall of 15's in your back seat, a single 10" or 12" in a nice box in the trunk will do, as well as a second amp to drive the sub. You don't need a lot of power, I run 300W RMS and it hurts my ears if I play it too loud for too long. Shoot, the amp you have does that wattage if you bridge the rear channel signal (though either it's not really reaching its rated power or it's producing a dirty signal, it's just too cheap to be that powerful without sacrificing some internal quality).
You don't really needs the rears if you have 160W rms up front, I'd be running the rear speakers off the headunit so they don't compete with the fronts. If the front and rear both have the same power, the rears pull the soundstage to the center of the car, where you want the fronts to do the bulk of the sound since you will be sitting there and running components up there usually in higher-quality installs.
Hope this helps!
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