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2001 Mitsubishi Galant ESI would triple check the vac lines since the purge has 2 vac lines on itOriginally Posted by rezyy0
Maybe get some TB cleaner and clean the EGR Valve and EGR tube
Well one of the vacuum lines I replaced wasn't on very snug so I went and got a new one, stuck it on, it's tight now, but it's still rough. I've gone through all the line connections and made sure they were on, I tested the electrical connectors of the egr and evap solenoid valve and they both tested good, and it's still running rough. I can drive it fine, it shifts fine, but when I come to a stop it idles rough. I'm out of ideas here.
I would triple check the vac lines since the purge has 2 vac lines on it
Maybe get some TB cleaner and clean the EGR Valve and EGR tube
15 F150 3.5 ecoboost 4x4 - daily driver
01 Galant ES V6 MT (sold)
00 Eclipse RS MT
Well on the pictures above you can see where they are, I had to switch them on the bracket because the lines wouldn't reach, do you think maybe they could be getting pinched? The replacement valve I got points the lines to the right instead of forward.
Anyone know what that wire showing is? I don't know if maybe that's the issue. I think I might have hit it when I was unbolting the bracket. I've covered it with electrical tape for now until hopefully someone can let me know what it is.
Last edited by rezyy0; 03-21-2015 at 03:21 PM
Well I'm completely lost. I took it around the block to see how it would run and now I have a p0720 code. I don't know what's going on and I'm getting pretty irritated with it. Guess I'll have to get it looked at by someone.
What yr is your G
That looks like a coil wire came undone from the connector.
Anyone know what that wire showing is? I don't know if maybe that's the issue. I think I might have hit it when I was unbolting the bracket. I've covered it with electrical tape for now until hopefully someone can let me know what it is.
It's a 99.
Is there a way to fix it?
Soldier and heat shrink the two wires if theres another end if not get another from a junkyard and splice it back. Soldier and heat shrink.
It's still connected though, it just feels like it kinda got pulled out a little bit and that's why the wires are visible.
Can you take a picture in a different angle. In that one it lioked disconnected. Tape it up and see if runs better.
I taped it when it happened and it still ran bad, and that's when I got the p0720 code. But, I think I might have figured out what happened. It looks like the replacement evap purge solenoid I bought was from an eclipse. Think that might be the problem? And should I put the old back on until I get a new oem galant one?
Last edited by rezyy0; 03-22-2015 at 01:05 AM
Piggybacking off of my old post, I still had idling issues. I took it to my friend and he couldn't really figure it out either. Replaced the tps and iac valve, no luck. Still idles bad and the engine shakes so I don't really know what to do from here. It sounds like it's sucking in alot of air but there's no vacuum leak. If anybody has any sort of suggestion to check it'd be appreciated.
Sounds like you need a smoke machine. The problem with vacuum leaks is that they can be difficult to find on occasion. A smoke machine will find it for sure. Before you keep randomly guessing at parts and spending unnecessary money and time. Get it diagnosed properly.
Took it to firestone to get it looked at. Waiting for a call. Guy was gonna smoke test to find the leak. Hopefully this fixes it cause I'm gonna be super bummed if it doesn't.
Well the guy there told me he didn't fully know what it was, complained about my outlander swap, told me i should try replacing the egr so I guess that's my next step.
Well, the guy at firestone was right. My egr valve is acting up. Had the car running, took off the vacuum line to it, and the car ran fine. So, I'm getting a replacement and hopefully I'll be all good.
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2002 Mitsubishi Galant GTZ
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