I uswd synchromesh and didnt like it. May I highly recommend RedLine GL4 75w-90.
On a scale of 1-10, how hard is replacing the front rotors and brake pads? It looks easy enough I just haven't done it before so I wanted your guys' opinion. The Bremos remineded me haha
Also, Im tempted to do something to my front bumper, make it look a little more like an evo.
Something like one of these maybe? Thoughts?
Edit: Not my car
Last edited by Techn0Nut1996; 06-10-2015 at 04:21 PM
2002 Mitsubishi Galant ES (SCRAPPED)
1991 Jeep Comanche (SOLD)
2002 Honda Accord EX (DAILY)
1998 Eclipse GST (PROJECT)
Oak I use synchro and I haven't had any problems, although I don't really know what a "bad" gear fluid would be like...
But Keith and Kyle/black8g both recommended redline MTL 75w90. Keith was saying synchromesh is more of an additive rather than a stand alone gear oil
Changing the front caliper/rotor is really easy. Undo your lugs, pull the wheel off. Loosen the caliper bolts that are behind the caliper, set it to the side (don't let it hang by the brake line) then remove the rotor. If it's stuck you thread a bolt into a little hole and it'll push it off. Then put the new stuff on. That's not 100% step by step but you get the point
Anyway, on to my own update:
Been working over the bumper where it meets the hood, trying to make it match up better...so far it's not too bad. The above pics are of melting the bumper and oem grill together so I can use the oem clips to hold it. Below is as it sits now:
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2002 Mitsubishi Galant ES (SCRAPPED)
1991 Jeep Comanche (SOLD)
2002 Honda Accord EX (DAILY)
1998 Eclipse GST (PROJECT)
I have seen a lot of different "evo" styles while researching for mine...there are 2 different methods from what I can tell. ill put up some pics and talk about them from my standpoint. give me a second cuz im uploading from my phone and laptop
here is what im basing my design off of, a guy I saw on the mitsunation facebook page. this looks like he just took a JDM bumper and modified it, similar to what you're wanting to do.
This is probably the closest to what you want to do. Cut out the center, lay some fiberglass, and polish it.
This is just a photo I found
This was done by a company in Germany, they made a mold I think but I'm not sure...
this is the same as the silver one, from what I can tell, just a different color/car
this is my personal favorite out of them all, but to do this you have to remove a good portion of the structural support in the front end...that's how it is able to tuck in so close.
And then obviously mine. I have some details on my thread if you want info on it
I'm leering that doing that much work on my car now wouldn't be wise.. The Iowa winter roads are slowing killing my car. I've noticed the rust spots getting far worse faster and faster, makes me sad.. I wonder what else is rusting that I can't see. In fact, I just got my car back from the shop cause I had some strange vibrations and it turns out my front passenger strut had somehow managed to rust, and mostly from the inside out.
2002 Mitsubishi Galant ES (SCRAPPED)
1991 Jeep Comanche (SOLD)
2002 Honda Accord EX (DAILY)
1998 Eclipse GST (PROJECT)
For me the synchromesh looked very watery and thin. Gears were very notchy going in.
When I switched to Redline after only a week, it was night and day. Smooth shifts in and a quiet reverse.
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