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jakobmen
11-25-2003, 03:07 PM
What does BRAKE CALIPER locking up mean

and can i fix it and where can i buy this CALIPERS

I do know the 01 v6 galants have some kind of brake problems i want to change this to and i think nows the time with it locking up..

pinoyesv6
11-25-2003, 03:14 PM
it means that the piston in the caliper can't move. the piston is what pushed the pad onto the rotor.

you can get a replacement caliper at the dealer. the auto parts store might carry some also.

the caliper as far as i've seen, just bolt in and out. but trickey part would be bleeding the brakes. if you can't bleed the brakes yourself, you should really get a mechanic that can do that. having air in the brake lines is a bad thing. a set of speed bleeders would allow you to bleed the brakes yourself or you can get one of then devices that bleeds the brakes for you.

jakobmen
11-25-2003, 03:18 PM
is there something that shows me how to bleeding the brakes on 01 v6 galant..

ehhe mybe i just need to buy the speed bleeder

ChikagoGTZ
11-25-2003, 03:23 PM
Bleeding your brakes is pretty darn easy when you have someone with you, all you need is: 1) a 10mm wrench (I think, may be 9 or 8 ) and a piece of tube (like in a fish take bubbler) and a friend to pump the brakes for you.
First,

Attach the tube to the bleed valve on the caliper.

then Open the valve, have the person in the car SLOWLY press the pedal. As the pedal is pressed the air in the caliper will be forced out.

Before he brings his foot up, close the valve. Then he can bring the pedal up.

Continue this until the fluid flows free of air bubbles. (You can see then if you use clear tube)

After you bleed all the brakes, top up the Brake fluid levels.

**USE THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK, I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU SCREW UP**

jakobmen
11-25-2003, 03:28 PM
thank you guys soo much right now my 8g just hit 70k and i need to check everything on it do ya know where i can get a list of everything i need to check on the car

I know most all the belts are cracking soo need to change all of them

anymore info would help plz ... or point me to the right way =)

ChikagoGTZ
11-25-2003, 03:30 PM
Just ask, I'm pretty good at braking systems and suspension, just dont ask me about electrical stuff and we will be ok.....

jakobmen
11-25-2003, 03:32 PM
ok here goes i want to change everything on the brakes,pads,rotors, etc etc

how much i'm looking at ?

Fishboy55
11-25-2003, 06:07 PM
Bleeding your brakes is pretty darn easy when you have someone with you, all you need is: 1) a 10mm wrench (I think, may be 9 or 8 ) and a piece of tube (like in a fish take bubbler) and a friend to pump the brakes for you.
First,

Attach the tube to the bleed valve on the caliper.

then Open the valve, have the person in the car SLOWLY press the pedal. As the pedal is pressed the air in the caliper will be forced out.

Before he brings his foot up, close the valve. Then he can bring the pedal up.

Continue this until the fluid flows free of air bubbles. (You can see then if you use clear tube)

After you bleed all the brakes, top up the Brake fluid levels.

**USE THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK, I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU SCREW UP**
You're right on target with the process, but you forgot to post the order to bleed in, and that's important. For the Galant, and most cars it's right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Or to simplify, always start at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and work your way toward the master cylinder one wheel at a time.

ChikagoGTZ
11-25-2003, 09:45 PM
Cali of Fed spec? are your front twin piston or single piston, I believe the cali V6 are only single piston.

You can get all new pads/rotors for about 300-340 at different places on here like raceconceptdesigns.com and powerslot rotors...calipers are not usually cheap, I suggest getting used ones from a junkyard or seeing if you can get a core trade in on your old ones at a local parts shop. I'll look into getting a price for new calipers for you.....

You could also rebuild the calipers....get them powder coated and put them back together...if you know what you are doing.....I plan on ripping mine apart, powder coating them professionally, and then putting them back together like new....only thing is ABS brakes suck ass to rebuild due to the little sensor shit that always breaks...at least they did in my lumina... https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif

Let me know if you have any more questions.

pinoyesv6
11-26-2003, 06:02 AM
Cali of Fed spec? are your front twin piston or single piston, I believe the cali V6 are only single piston.



the 2k1's were all single piston in the front for the v6

ChikagoGTZ
11-26-2003, 06:57 AM
That's good to know...

jakobmen
11-26-2003, 09:34 AM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>You're right on target with the process, but you forgot to post the order to bleed in, and that's important. For the Galant, and most cars it's right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Or to simplify, always start at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and work your way toward the master cylinder one wheel at a time.</div>

so do i need to do this to my car </div>

11-26-2003, 09:39 AM
this basically means prepare to bend over and receive and anal raping as you replace the calipers. I ALMOST had to shell out $350 for new calipers and pads, and those were just the rears (on my integra).

Fishboy55
11-26-2003, 09:42 AM
You're right on target with the process, but you forgot to post the order to bleed in, and that's important. For the Galant, and most cars it's right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Or to simplify, always start at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and work your way toward the master cylinder one wheel at a time.

so do i need to do this to my car [/quote]
If you introduce air into the system in any way you will. That means if you disconnect the calipers or open the brake lines. You don't need to bleed if you're just replacing the pads.

jakobmen
11-26-2003, 09:45 AM
ok.. how would i know if i want to check my self if the calipers are locking up........?

ChikagoGTZ
11-26-2003, 11:25 AM
What are the actual symptoms of your brakes???

If they are fully locked there should be some sounds....visual inspection would be the best....when you take them off use a c-clamp to attempt to slowly press the caliper piston back into the set and flush mount position....inspect the gasket and seal around the piston, if this is ruptured they need replacing, if it is really hard to press in, they are seized. Never press on the brake pedal when the calper is off the vehicle....the piston may (most likely will) pop out and require you to get a new one....I'm still looking into prices for new calipers. I get a 15% discount on Mitus parts....but I would still get used/rebuilt ones or go to another source for new parts.

ChikagoGTZ
11-26-2003, 11:36 AM
Ok, I can get you all 4 calipers off of a vehicle with around 9,000 miles for about $150. I have bought parts off this exact vehicle for my 00 GTZ and they work fine. I will talk with the owner of the yard and try to get them for $125. If you only want a few..like the front or the back they will be $50 each caliper. Let me know what you are planning on doing.

I believe these are off of a V6....hopefully, since I dont think the I-4 brakes work on the ES V6...(Pinoy??)

jakobmen
11-26-2003, 11:45 AM
ok this is what firestone told me.

that the calipers on the front/left side is random locking up
when I'm driving I dont feel a thing well only the brakes pads wanting to be change https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif

this is why I'm asking you about how i would know there locking up or something i like doing my work on my car my self https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif

after hearing about 7months ago that 01v6galant mybe have brake problems i thought mybe changing all the brakes system sometime soon and now that my car is just hiting the 70k miles I think its good thing to change them now before i kill my self ehehe

Gilhuly
11-27-2003, 09:57 AM
I'm no brake expert, but I've had plenty of experience working on my Galant's brakes. The last time I did my pads/rotors I didn't take tha calipers apart all the way and the front calipers weren't letting back out all the way. Generates a ton of heat quickly. Took it to my local mechanic, he disassembled the caliper and cleaned/lubed it. They have been perfect ever since. I think the calipers for $150 sounds like a screamin deal. I would get them myself, but I have a dual piston 99! I'll be rebuilding those.

ChikagoGTZ
11-27-2003, 11:41 AM
Yeah, now someone advise me...the ones that I can get are single piston...all the way around. Now the V6 ES has single all around, are these the same brakes as the I-4 ES???? If so, these are perfect for him to use...if not, oh well.

Here is how to rebuild a caliper

1. Jack up the front end of the car and put it on jack stands

2. Remove the wheel.

3. Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap and lay a piece of plastic film (like cellophane) over the opening and reinstall the cap. This will help create a vacuum on the fluid so that it doesn't run out the brake lines as fast. Other methods include attaching a vacuum pump to the fluid reservoir or clamping the brake line (for rubber lines only).

4. Pull the caliper off the rotor. (There is no need to press the piston back into the caliper, since you will be removing the piston.) Pull the brake pads out of the caliper.

5. Remove the brake line from the caliper and plug the end of the brake line with a rubber vacuum cap to keep the fluid from draining out. (Place a small dish under the caliper and brake line to catch any leaking brake fluid). To keep the brake line from twisting, you may need to rotate the entire caliper as you loosen the brake line.

6. Place a piece of wood (about 1/2-1/3 inch thick) between the caliper piston and the outer flange of the caliper. Insert an air nozzle into the brake line hole and using low pressure compressed air, force the piston out of the caliper. (Be careful! The piston will pop out with a lot of force. This is why the piece of wood is there. Keep your fingers away from the piston!)

7. Remove the piston and clean it in brake fluid. Use a Scotchbrite pad to clean any crud off the piston. Inspect the outer face of the piston for corrosion or pitting. If you find either of these, the entire caliper must be replaced -- you cannot buy the piston separately.

8. Remove the outer dust cover (if it hasn't already fallen off).

9. Remove the inner rubber O-ring. It sits in a groove inside the caliper's piston housing.

10. Clean the inside of the caliper piston housing using a Scotchbrite pad, an old toothbrush, and brake cleaner. Make sure you thoroughly clean all the grooves inside the caliper. This a good time to clean the entire caliper with brake fluid (and maybe paint it). Check the inside of the caliper for corrosion and pitting. Let the caliper and piston air dry.

11. Open the caliper rebuild kit. You'll find two parts: an internal sealing O-ring and an outer dust boot.

12. Coat the inner O-ring with either caliper grease (this is a special grease just for calipers - available at most auto parts stores) or brake fluid. Coat the inside groove of the caliper (where the O-ring will sit) with the same. Install the internal O-ring by pressing it into place with your fingers.

13. This next step is the hardest part of the whole procedure. Coat the outside of the piston with either caliper grease or brake fluid. Pull the rubber dust cover over the INSIDE edge of the caliper, with the lip of the dust cover (the lip that will be inserted in the caliper, not the piston) facing away from the piston. The edge of the dust cover that will eventually be seated in the groove on the piston should be facing the piston groove, and the rest of the dust cover should be hanging slightly over the edge of the piston. While holding the piston near the caliper housing, push the lip of the dust cover into it's groove in the caliper. Then gently push the piston into the caliper. The piston will hit the inner O-ring and become more difficult to press in. Keeping the piston exactly straight, gently tap it into place using a hammer against a flat piece of metal or wood held against the piston. You can also insert the handle end of a small hammer into the piston and then push the piston into the caliper.

14. You can skip this next step, but it will make it easier to bleed the caliper because it primes it with brake fluid. Loosen the caliper bleed screw and using either a vacuum on the bleed screw or pressure on the brake line hole, fill the caliper with brake fluid.

15. Reattach the brake line, insert the brake pads into the caliper, and install the caliper on the rotor. (Don't tighten the brake line yet - just a little snug.) Again, it may be necessary to rotate the entire caliper as you tighten the brake line in order to keep the brake line from twisting.

16. Remove the cellophane, vacuum, clamps, etc. and bleed the caliper See above to do this)

17. Remount the wheel and lower the car off the jack stands. Remember to pump the brake pedal a few times to get the pads reseated against the rotor before you go for a test drive.

USE THIS TUTORIAL AT YOUR RISK...THIS IS NOT A PROFESSIONAL OPINION!!!!