Quick ?

[LJM9000]

OK i just installed a new filter on the g with one of those ebay mas adapters. My question is that now im all done and everything is hooked up and running fine do I need to brace the filter in any spot. I dont want the MAS to get messed up do the vibrations. If so can someone plz post up pics. Thanks a lot as always

[peanotation]

i hope it's not hanging there, beause the heat from the tranny will hurt the filter, especially if the filter is touching the tranny. also, the shifter cable is there, i would mount it so it doesn't get in the way of anything and not go through unneeded wear and tear

[LJM9000]

ok what would you suggest mounting it with

[StreetDreams]

I used a 1" wide piece of flat aluminum stock about 12" long. I used a vice to bend the end into a 'U'. I put the 'U' end between the filter and the clamp and tightened it down, then bolt the other end of the aluminum onto the tranny mount. If you secure the filter to any part on the body of the car eventually it will come loose because the motor moves around when accelerating and during shifts. If you mount it to one of the holes on the top of the tranny mount the mas and filter assembly will move with the engine and will not pull apart.

[LJM9000]

do you have a pic by chance?
And driving around like this for a few days wont hurt it will it?

[StreetDreams]

I wouldn't drive around with it just HANGING THERE. So, are you saying that right now the only thing holding the filter and mas assembly in the car is the clamp on the throttle body? That would not be good. That clamp could come loose and your whole intake would be hanging by the MAS wiring (which would break). I will email you some pictures, but it would be tomorrow evening.

Can anyone advise on posting pictures on this site? I have no idea how to do it. Thanks.

[LJM9000]

no its not just hanging there its resting on the stuff below the intake. i drove it for a while and then checked everything and made sure it was tight and it was fine, ill look for something to hold it up tomorrow hte pics would be greatly appreciated

[JiP]

The stuff below the intake is the tranny lol. And heat isnt as much of a concern as your MAS constantly bouncing around and taking hard hits. You defintly dont wanna damage that its a VERY expensive part.

Anyway I just ziptied my intake up to my strut bar or maybe it was the AC line..hell just zip it up to somethin that keeps it off the tranny so it wont swing around and bonce and smash itself. Why didnt I use a brace...cause Im a cheap bastard...and lazy. Its been zipped up for 2years now.

[brandon]

I never had mine braced and it sat fine w/o touching the tranny mounts or anything, tightened up good on the TB.

Maybe because my intake pipe was small? ::shrugs::

[JiP]

my intake pipe from MAS to TB..well to my 60mm HKS elbow is a 4" to 3" reducer from homedepot =D

[StreetDreams]

When you damage that MAS, keep me in mind...I'll sell you one cheap!!! https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif

LJM9000, Still need the picture? Let me know...I'll try to get it done tonight, if you're desperate.

[LJM9000]

Ok heres what i did. I went to home depot and bought a pipe hanger. I then took it and put it around where the mas adapter meets the filter where that clamp is. I fastened it and then ran the mounting part of the hanger to where there is a bolt that fastens the fuse box down. I then unbolted that and bolted the hanger to that. That hold the filter and mas in place. does that sound like it should be ok.

[JiP]

Pipe hanger..thats a good idea!

And yes you should be fine.

[LJM9000]

OK good https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif Thanks for all your help

[StreetDreams]

That'll work. I would still suggest using a sturdy bracket to bolt it to the tranny mount; that way the intake will move with the engine as it rocks back and forth. As you have it now, the mas and filter will be held still while the engine rocks which will stress the couplers and clamps and COULD pull the pipe off the trottle body. You probably won't have any problems with it, but if it gets loose or pulls apart at least you'll know why and can correct it if it happens.

[JiP]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(StreetDreams)</div><div class='quotemain'>That'll work. Â*I would still suggest using a sturdy bracket to bolt it to the tranny mount; that way the intake will move with the engine as it rocks back and forth. Â*As you have it now, the mas and filter will be held still while the engine rocks which will stress the couplers and clamps and COULD pull the pipe off the trottle body. Â*You probably won't have any problems with it, but if it gets loose or pulls apart at least you'll know why and can correct it if it happens.</div>

If your engine is rockin that much your engine mounts SUCK.

[StreetDreams]

All the motor mounts and the tranny mount in my car have been changed...it doesn't rock a lot but yes it does move enough. But just a little bit over time is enough to pull stuff apart if not mounted properly. Which is the same reason there is a flex pipe in the exhaust and everything is mounted with rubber (flexible hangers), so that the exhaust does not pull apart or crack as the engine rocks.

The old mas to tb rubber elbow was used to absorb these movements; when replacing it with a solid pipe (that doesn't flex) it needs to be mounted so that the entire assembly rocks with the engine. If not, the only part of your intake that would flex would be the coupler; over time as that coupler is pulled and stretched it will come off. As in your case, Jip, you don't have this problem because the intake is ziptied to the strut brace, so it will move some with the engine. The original post was about how to brace it. The only way, IMO, is to attach a bracket that supports the intake to the engine or tranny.

Now, this is not too big a deal, but if your intake comes loose and you don't know it, you will suck dirt and road debris into your engine. Not a good thing.

Not trying to argue, just pointing out facts...you can do it right or you can do it quick and easy...I'm not gonna judge you for what you decide to do...just want to give you facts so you can make an informed decision.


Thanks,
Mike

[JiP]

I wouldnt have the problem even if it was bolted to the frame because my block litteraly rocks 1/2" at most...and yes I do vibrate like a blender at idle but you get used to it. You still have some give in the joints from the rubber couplers.

But If your engine is really rolling that much then yes, you would be better bolting to the trans so it rolls with the engine. But then again without an AFC your losin low end with a higher flowing intake, and since your engine is flexing SO much your losin power there too, so ...

Fill your mounts, or get prothanes, or better yet there was a company selling solid mounts for 4g63 that would fit us (not recomended for street drivin for sure!)...you vibrate, but more power to the ground.

Rubber is there on the vast majority of parts not so things dont break, but so your ride is smooth. Our engine is horizontal so it will roll a lil from back to front (thats why front n back mounts are called Roll Stoppers), and yes thats why there is a flex section while big american engines have their RWD with the block perpendicular to ours they dont have any front to back roll and dont need a flex pipe.

[StreetDreams]

and since your engine is flexing SO much your losin power there too, so ...

Fill your mounts, or get prothanes, or better yet there was a company selling solid mounts for 4g63 that would fit us (not recomended for street drivin for sure!)...you vibrate, but more power to the ground.


why do you lose power when your engine rocks? what did I miss? What is the reason that the less the motor moves the more power to the ground? I'm not questioning your knowledge, I've just never heard that before and am interested to know how that works.

Also, how much are they asking for the solid mounts...I don't care about vibrations, I'm removing my balance shafts so I am prepared for the car to vibrate anyway. And, what do you mean by "fill your mounts". I've heard this before on this site but couldn't find out how to do it.

Thanks,
Mike

[JiP]

I forget exactly why so Im not gonna ramble the post is somewhere on 4g64 that I tried to find but anyone whos a member knows the search BLOWS. Something about the engine flex's from the torque and thats power lost moving the block instead of having it transfered thruogh the tranny to the wheels...

The reason I filled em was I believe Sport Compact or maybe Import Tuenr did 12 1/4mile runs in the same car only changing mounts, 4 runs stock, 4 runs with Energy Suspension, and 4 with Prothanes. 4 runs of course just to make sure things are consistent. and the motor mounts did make a difference in 1/4 mile time. Prothanes being the best improvement and also they rated prothanes the worst for street driving cause of the vibration. I filled mine instead cause uh im cheap. Never been to the track or on a dyno so I dont know if anything really changed..tires did squeek a bit more (a/t)...but lost my squeelin tires after the headswap.

[StreetDreams]

Ok. Thanks for the reply.

What do you mean by filling them? How is it done? And how does it compare to the Prothanes or Energy Suspension ones? Do you have an approximate cost for the prothanes and energy suspension mounts?

I could, probably search for the info, but you seem to already know, so any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike

[JiP]

IIRC Prothanes are around $80. Energy Suspension is much cheaper around $40..

Filling them is just removing the mount and using any kind of adhesive sealant to literally fill in the spaces in the mount. If you have seen an engine mount or roll stopper they are a piece of rubber with cut outs on top and bottom so that the center section can move up and down, thus dampening the vibration. Fill in that gap, the engine cant flex much anymore and you vibrate more but bit more power to the wheels..

Depending what you fill with will determine your overall ride quality. RRE says to use windshield polyurethane sealant, the stuff they glue ur window down with. This is on the vfaq under suspension:

http://www.vfaq.com/FAQlocator-suspension.html ('http://www.vfaq.com/FAQlocator-suspension.html')

[StreetDreams]

Thanks JiP. I think I will go with the prothanes for $80.00 if those are the best ones to use. Like I said, I already changed my mounts, but since the engine will be out when doing the swap, $80.00 isn't bad to stiffen everything up a little. Thanks again.

[paulbunyan]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(brandon)</div><div class='quotemain'>I never had mine braced and it sat fine w/o touching the tranny mounts or anything, tightened up good on the TB.

Maybe because my intake pipe was small? ::shrugs::</div>

Same thing I did and mines been running strong for like 2 years now...

[pinoyesv6]

just to be on the safe side, i'd brace the MAS. if you look in my engine bay, you can't see my MAS. i covered it up because before, i didn't have my MAS braced and it made all sorts of deep scratches in the case of the MAS. and i've had it that way for a few months. if i kept it longer without bracing it, i bet it would wore through the case.

[4-G-rim]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(JiP)</div><div class='quotemain'>
Depending what you fill with will determine your overall ride quality. Â*RRE says to use windshield polyurethane sealant, the stuff they glue ur window down with. Â*</div>



http://www.raktron.com/misc/mt00.jpg

You can get this stuff at a Home Depot. About $15 for a bottle. Drying is the only pain, but no biggy. 8)

[StreetDreams]

I take it that it works pretty good...any pics of how they look? Just trying to picture how this would look...I'm not trying to score points for stylish motor mounts or anything! https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif What would you all recommend, filling or prothanes...I want to do things right but don't want to waste money either.
THanks,
MIke

[StreetDreams]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(JiP)</div><div class='quotemain'>Depending what you fill with will determine your overall ride quality. Â*RRE says to use windshield polyurethane sealant, the stuff they glue ur window down with. Â*This is on the vfaq under suspension:

http://www.vfaq.com/FAQlocator-suspension.html</div>

couldn't find any info on it with the link you provided. :?

[JiP]

Coulda sworn it was on there...

http://www.raktron.com/misc/mt.htm ('http://www.raktron.com/misc/mt.htm')

thats the direct link. And I tried Homedepot and couldnt find window weld anywhere or anything close to it. Asked a local windshield shop they wouldnt sell me a tube of whtever they used.

[StreetDreams]

Thanks Jip, looks easy enough. Looks like that would be pretty sturdy and stiff; how much better could the prothanes really be? Basically, it's taking your stock mount and making it a solid piece...same as the prothanes...I will probably be doing this when I do the swap.

This would work well with the front and rear mounts, but how about the left side mount and tranny mount? Would it be worth doing?

Thanks for the link.

Mike Z