How to close brake piston?

[Jet Black]

I have the dual piston calipers. I can push in one of the pistons relativly easly, but the other one is being tough. Im using a c-clamp but the other one will not go in. Is their a way I can do this easier (possibly flush out the brake fluid?).

[pinoyesv6]

are you doing them one at a time??

you can open up the brake lines and you won't have to push fluid but you're gonna have to bleed your brakes when you are done.

also i find it easier to do when you remove the cap off the reservoir

[Jet Black]

Ya im doing them one at a time, since i cant find anything that will act as a suitable wedge. Also is their an easier way of disconnecting the brake lines, rather than fumbling that one screw on the back?

[pinoyesv6]

this is what i did to compress my pistons since i was too cheap to buy a c-clamp.

i took the brake pad and used it to protect the piston. like you'd do normally.

then i took a pipe. and put it inside of the caliper. like where the rotor would be sitting inside. and i used the pipe as a lever. i pushed on one side and it pivoted on the side of the caliper and the other side of the pipe pushed the piston inside of the caliper.

[Jet Black]

Well I finally got the piston to collapse back. NOW I have a dozen more problems. I finished right brakes, and started on the left side. Then I stripped one of the big 17mm bolts.

So now Im going to have to take my lame ass brake job into a garage to get the other side finished. AND on top of all this, I have fatty amounts of air in the brake lines (im 99% sure i have air).

Theirs absolutely no room to work without a lift. Pinoy, how did you go about doing all this? It seems like the breaker bar is too big in every angle, and the smaller bars dont put down enough torque.

Im really pissed at myself for not being able to finish this (seriously it took me the better of 2 hours to even get the first bolt off). I would rather do a hundred spring/strut installations than another brake job. :evil:

[pinoyesv6]

just think wisely i guess thats the best tip i got.

i slipped a pipe at the end of my ratchet and the length can be adjusted this way, if there's less room, i'll slide the pipe up more. if there's more room i'll slide the pipe down so things are longer.

another thing is to use your body pressure to bring the force. many people try using their arms to turn teh ratchet. it works but for me its much harder, if i just lean into the ratchet the bolt will get loose.

another thing i've seen people do is put the car up on a jack and put the ratchet on the bolt and then support the ratchet handle on a jackstand. then lower the car. you'll be using the car's weight to loosen the bolt.

as for the stripped bolt head, have u tried locking a vise grip onto it. and then maybe using that jack/jackstand technique i told you about?

and how about getting air into your lines, how'd u figure you did that? you brakes might feel mushy or weak because A. you probably haven't broken in the new brakes or B. since you stripped that bolt, one side has more pad than the other

oh yea, unless you got another form of transportation, don't try to remove that stripped bolt by yourself, or you'll notice that you can't go to the dealer to get the new bolt without the brakes put back together

[Jet Black]

Ya now its stripped even further. Either way, thanks for your help Pinoy.

BTW Do you happen to know the part number for the 17mm bolt (it will say in the service manual if you have one).

[pinoyesv6]

which one is it?? cuz they are different.

[Jet Black]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(pinoyesv6)</div><div class='quotemain'>which one is it?? cuz they are different.</div>

Its the one that holds the caliper to the hub (their are 2 of them). It's basicly the first bolt that you have to unscrew (after taking off the wheel) to take the caliper off.

I think the service manual calls it a guide pin (they use two seperate names for the same exact bolt). Unforunetly my manual is sitting in my PC 50 miles away in downtown LA.

BTW: The reason I think i got air inside the lines is because I was messing around with the screw that bleeds the brakes. And Im pretty sure that your supposed to keep a steady flow of liquid to keep from air entering, but I didn't. I had the valve open for way to long.

Thanks a lot.

[Jet Black]

Oh this is fucking great! I just checked out the club3g pages, and turns out their are 2 diffrent bolts (as you stated). In my hurry, I missed this, AND considering my luck in so far, I'm almost positive that I probably put them in the wrong holes. The one Ill need is the lock pin, not the guide pin.

Oh man this has not been going my way at all. https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif

[pinoyesv6]

sorry man, i couldn't find it. i'll keep looking

[Jet Black]

Don't even bother looking it up, Im going to the dealer tommorow to get this done. It shouldn't be to expensive considering I did half already, and I have my own hardware (though they might not even do it, since they can't warranty the hardware).

Something to look foward to on Christmas:
http://www.mytoolstore.com/ke/kw1600pr.html ('http://www.mytoolstore.com/ke/kw1600pr.html')

Maximum Torque (Ft-Lbs.):300 All the torque in the world (makes more torque than my motor https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif). No more stripped bolts and shit. Its only about 500$, and its the base model. Some of the other guns go up to 3400 ft-lbs torque. :twisted: