Oil filter question.

[Insane99]

Going to use royal purple synthetic<5W30 or 10W30? 00 ES I4 57,700 miles. Wanted to use the fram X2 but Wal-Mart didnt have it for the I4. Its designed for synthetic oils so i would imagine there are others designed for it also. Anyone know of any GOOD ones?

[pinoyesv6]

fram = trash

i'd go with either a mobil1 oil filter or k&n

the filter form mitsubishi is also good.

[Insane99]

koo.

[silveresv6]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(pinoyesv6)</div><div class='quotemain'>i'd go with either a mobil1 oil filter or k&n</div>

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: i second that. i have been using mobil1 oil and filters on all my cars for about 6 yrs now.

mobil1 is the best

get the mobil1

[BlankMan]

Fram is not really a POS. It seems each car has it's own "preference" of filters. For instance, if I use anything other than a Fram orange or Ford label filter for my F-150, I get wierd oil pressure readings after long drives. Still, the Galant - or at least mine - seems to like the Mitsu factory or M0bile 1 filters.

J

[Insane99]

Thanks for the help everone. What weight should i use for a 00 ES I4 wit 57,700 ish miles? 5W30 or 10W30? Been using 10W with reg oil.Does putting sythetic in an engine that is broken in with regular ever have any problems? Like clogging the motor and blowing it?< Have actually heard this. Don't really believe it but figured i would ask.

[Faction]

fram filters are good enough for me..i dont have any problems. and mobil 1 filters are just too expensive.

Alrighty...the big oil debate. First of all, why are you switching to Royal Purple? Stuff's expensive, and your mods probably don't justify use of it. If you're switching because of the claimed "horsepower gains," you're not going to see any gains and it will probably just hurt your engine, so don't switch.

Since the rebuild on the Integra, it's been Mobil 1 synthetic + Mobil 1 filter + magnetic drain plug, and things have been just dandy. Royal Purple is not stuff to be using on a relatively stock, unopened motor with miles on it.

[Djayfusion99_es_v6]

My preference is Mobil 1 filter or the factory filter. BTW where can we get a magnetic drain plug for the G rides

[Insane99]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(scootinintegra)</div><div class='quotemain'>Alrighty...the big oil debate. First of all, why are you switching to Royal Purple? Stuff's expensive, and your mods probably don't justify use of it. If you're switching because of the claimed "horsepower gains," you're not going to see any gains and it will probably just hurt your engine, so don't switch.

Since the rebuild on the Integra, it's been Mobil 1 synthetic + Mobil 1 filter + magnetic drain plug, and things have been just dandy. Royal Purple is not stuff to be using on a relatively stock, unopened motor with miles on it.</div>


I just want the added protection that synthetic is supposed to give for the engine.Figured royal purple would do a good job of helping the engine go for ever. I like to drive hard sometimes and the cars getting a few miles on her and i just want to protect her. So should i just use Mobil 1 synthetic and filter? I know this is a little off my topic but what plugs should i use. NGK what. Lots of people have a problem with the platinums in the I4. I was wondering if maybe thats because they use regular gas. I had a V6 before the I4 and got used to premium. I could really tell a difference in the performance so i still use it in the I4. Would platinum be the best since im using premium or should i just stick to the factory NGk type?

[DryBear]

I've been using Mobil 1, then switched to Royal Purple for the last few changes, and honestly haven't really felt any difference - it sometimes "feels" like it idles smoother, but I'm thinking maybe thats just a placebo effect or maybe even just because of the fresh oil. It really hasn't been too much more expensive as it runs maybe about $5-$7 more an oil change, but its a whole lot easier to find Mobil 1 in stock.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Insane99)</div><div class='quotemain'>I just want the added protection that synthetic is supposed to give for the engine.Figured royal purple would do a good job of helping the engine go for ever. I like to drive hard sometimes and the cars getting a few miles on her and i just want to protect her. So should i just use Mobil 1 synthetic and filter? </div>
Well, synthetic won't really give you any noticeable benefits on your car. The oil will come out cleaner when you change it, going over 3500miles between changes isn't going to be as bad, and your engine will probably run just a few degrees cooler (if at all). The thing is, if you're just now switching to synthetic, there's some stuff you should know.
Synthetic oils are excellent cleaners. That's one of the jobs of oil: to pick up and carry contaminants to the filter to be pulled out of your engine and avoid scratching pieces, leading to long engine life, blah blah blah. Synth is better than conventional motor oils at cleaning out various passages in your engine, which seems all fine and dandy. However, you have little holes all over your oiling system now that you've put some miles on your car. Little leaks between gaskets, valve seals, cam plug, etc. With your conventional motor oils, oil gets caked up in there and actually seals off these leaks (which is perfectly normal and acceptable, not at all a harm) for you. When you suddenly dump synth in, it does such a good job cleaning that it tears away these little seals and leaves holes that can't be plugged, because full synth won't cake up and deposit residue in these holes. That's how you end up with an oil leak, and oil leaks are bad. If you just rebuilt the motor and are running on all fresh seals that are well installed, synth is great. It keeps everything clean, lubed, and cool (it also transfers heat better than conventional, I believe), especially when combined with a high-flow, high-filtration filter and a magnetic drain plug. You're not really going to increase the life of your motor by running synth as opposed to running a strict schedule of conventional motor oil changes. Honestly, I would be very surprised if your motor oil was actually a direct or indirect cause of your engine finally dying; typically a spun bearing or cracked valve will do the trick. Take my research for what its worth, that's just what I've seen (and experienced a bit). You'll have to make the final decision. Honestly, it's not a life or death thing. If you want to spend the extra money and be able to go a little longer between oil changes, then go for it. You may get leaky, you may not. I just wouldn't recommend it. https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>I know this is a little off my topic but what plugs should i use. NGK what. Lots of people have a problem with the platinums in the I4. I was wondering if maybe thats because they use regular gas. I had a V6 before the I4 and got used to premium. I could really tell a difference in the performance so i still use it in the I4. Would platinum be the best since im using premium or should i just stick to the factory NGk type?</div>
Factory plugs are all you need until you make some major modifications. If you're just running intake and exhaust modifications, there's no need to spend extra money on some higher-end spark plug that won't affect your performance at all. Same goes for plug wires; don't believe that 5% hp increase claimed by nology or magnecor or any of those companies. I could go into it now, but that's waay off topic. https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif
As for gas, run what your manufacturer says. You're not going to get any benefits from running premium regularly as opposed to running regular old 87 octane. I've heard a lot of people talk about how it "cleans out" your combustion system, but I've never seen any evidence of it. I ran 87 in the integra and my combustion chambers looked exactly like a friend of mine's b18b1 who ran 93 octane just as long, and had relatively the same driving habits as I did. Especially with gas prices so high, it's not worth it. Of course, if your car requires premium, absolutely fill it up with the good stuff every time. If it doesn't, any gain you noticed was more or less a placebo effect. Once again, I could go into why, but it'd take a while https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif

So, take that for what it's worth. Good luck with everything.

[Insane99]

Thanks scootin. I'm not going to dispute your knowledge. Except, on my V6 the gas actually made a big difference. I didn't drive it for about 5 months and my parents put regular in it. I got in it and my mom was with me. I pulled out in traffic stepping on it and could tell it was slugish. I asked if it had regular in it and she looked dumb founded and said " how can you tell ? " The look on her face was halarious. I havent put reg in the 4 so i'll see if i can tell a diff. Thanks for the advise on the oil and plugs. The whole reg oil plugging leaks and syn clearing them makes alot of sence. I'll stick with reg oil. Castrol GTX and a fram tough gaurd filter sound good?

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Insane99)</div><div class='quotemain'>Thanks scootin. I'm not going to dispute your knowledge. Except, on my V6 the gas actually made a big difference. I didn't drive it for about 5 months and my parents put regular in it. I got in it and my mom was with me. I pulled out in traffic stepping on it and could tell it was slugish. I asked if it had regular in it and she looked dumb founded and said " how can you tell ? " The look on her face was halarious. I havent put reg in the 4 so i'll see if i can tell a diff. </div>
I thought I said something about that up top, maybe I didn't...Your V6 probably requires 93 octance gas. If your parents filled it with regular, most likely you knocked once or twice and the car retarded the timing for you, taking away some of your power. If your car is requires to run 93 octane, then yes, you will lose power by running anything less.


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Thanks for the advise on the oil and plugs. The whole reg oil plugging leaks and syn clearing them makes alot of sence. I'll stick with reg oil. Castrol GTX and a fram tough gaurd filter sound good?</div>
Depends on what Castrol GTX. https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif Stay away from anything with a viscosity spread (the second number, i.e. the '30' in 10-w30) higher than 30 (you can get away with 40, but its generally more expensive anyway, and unless you're experiencing a 110* day followed by a 45* day, it's not worth it.) I think they even try to market a 10 or 5w-50, which is also something to stay away from. Over time, if you use those, the temperature-sensitive polymers that control the viscosity of the oil break down and clump together, and can actually scratch parts of your engine. This isn't saying that after one or two changes it will be tearing your engine to shreds, but after 10 or so changes, you would notice it if you took your engine apart, most likely. While you still have *relatively* low miles on your car, it's best just to go with whatever your manufacturer recommends for weight. If it's colder most of the time, like below 50 or 60 degrees regularly, sometimes dropping to 25-30 degrees or lower, run maybe 5 weight lower (like if your manufacturer recommends a 10w-30, it might be beneficial to run a 5-w30, especially if you're turning your car on and off a lot. Don't play around with 0 weight oils yet, though). I wouldn't recommend going up in weight at all (like to a 15w oil), because once you start playing with thinner oils, you lose cold temperature protection (during startup and cold weather driving; the lower the "weight" number [5 vs 10 vs 15], the easier it is on the car during start up, which is the hardest time on your car, especially in cold weather. The higher the number (to a point), the more protection and lubrication the oil provides at high temperatures and high velocity of the engine. It's a matter of balancing out the two.
Ideally, if companies could make something like a 10w-50 or 5w-50 that didn't break apart, it would be a great oil to run. But unfortunately, they don't, so you have to pick and choose. https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif Don't worry too much about picking the right oil for the season and temperature, the oil companies kind of figure on the fact that in general, people changing their own oil don't know what they're doing, so they make "idiot-proof" oil. If you fill you car up with 10w-30 this winter, you'll be fine, don't worry. That's what the viscosity changing polymers are there for. It's just nice to have the added protection during startup of a 5 weight oil.

[Insane99]

Been using 10W30. Would it be ok to use this in the summer and 5W30 in the winter? I don't drive a long time regularly. Maybe a hour or 2 at a time max in everyday conditions. I do however make 4 to 6 hour trips a couple times in summer and 1 or 2 times in winter (going to Myrtle Beach, SC and cruise at a max of 95< this speed for maybe 30 min before the limit changes and i lower back down to 65-80). Would it be better to change back to 10 before making a trip like that if runnin the 5 is better in the winter?

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Insane99)</div><div class='quotemain'>Been using 10W30. Would it be ok to use this in the summer and 5W30 in the winter? I don't drive a long time regularly. Maybe a hour or 2 at a time max in everyday conditions. I do however make 4 to 6 hour trips a couple times in summer and 1 or 2 times in winter (going to Myrtle Beach, NC and cruise at a max of 95< this speed for maybe 30 min before the limit changes and i lower back down to 65-80). Would it be better to change back to 10 before making a trip like that if runnin the 5 is better in the winter?</div>
Like I said, it's not so big of a deal you need to change oil just to make a trip. https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif I've been using 10w-30 in summer and 5w-30 in winter, and my engine block and reciprocating assembly looked beautiful when I tore it apart.
If I were you, this would be my set up:
Winter time: 5w-30 + fram oil filter + magnetic drain plug
Summer time: 10w-30 + fram oil filter + magnetic drain plug
Long, long trips: 10w-30 + mobil 1 filter + magnetic drain plug.

[Insane99]

Cool. Thanks for all the help. I now know a little more. https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif