Cheater Nitrous?

[Lootrock]

Anybody ever heard of this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...ssPageName=WDVW ('http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33740&item=7944493246&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW')

I heard of cheater systems, but I don't know exactly what they are. Are they as easy to use as this guy puts it? If so I wouldn't mind using this until I get an actual nitrous kit.

[pinoyesv6]

i don't think there's enough nitrous in those lil catridges to fill up the line from the trigger to the intake lol.

that's a big waste of money.

[clone2020]

My analogy for using N2O is similar to overclocking your computer's CPU. If you overclock your CPU, it's recommended to upgrade it's cooling otherwise you risk overheating/damaging the CPU. If you introduce N2O into your engine's combustion chamber, you take on similar risks.

-MIKE.

[Stewi]

Yeah thats not the best analogy in the world to use. Using Nitrous isnt going to overheat your engine. And when setup properly engines running nitrous will last a long time. My friend ran a 50 shot on his civic for over 2 years with no problems at all, his car was bone stock, all he did was get a higher flowing fuel pump and a NX Wet Kit. Its all a matter of making sure you have enough fuel in the cylinder to burn all the air and nitrous. All nitrous does is bring more air into the cylinder. Nitrous doesnt blow engines, incorrectly designed and installed nitrous kits and immature users/drivers blow engines. You hear of all theses people with turbo and SDS kits on stock engines, that is more stress than nitrous, because the forced induction is constant, its always there, always beating on the engine internals. Like I said, its more about having it installed right, being able to respect it and use it wisely.

[Lootrock]

Yeah I've read up a nice amount on nitrous, from a link that Peano posted in a different thread to the DSM forums. I plan on running like a 50-55 shot. would I really need to upgrade my fuel pump for a 50 shot? It seems just small enough a shot for me not to have to do that, not too sure though. Anyway, those little capsules definitely wouldn't be effective enough for me to have to upgrade anything. I think I might email the guy who's selling it, I mean even if it just adds 1-20 horsepower per shot, thats good enough for me for that little bit of money, but I'll wait until I get more opinions from you guys.

[GalantGuy96]

naaaaa......i would just get the sneaky pete......hehehe

[peanotation]

that kit is a complete waste of money. those little cartridges won't do a damn thing, and the auction says "it's a dry kit so it's safer" is complete bullshit, because it's not even a dry kit, because a dry kit will bump up fuel pressure to match the injected nitrous. this kit doesn't add or force any more fuel, so it's neither a wet nor dry, but a bullshit kit. nitrous isn't something for beginners, and this "kit" just screams stupidity.

if you're serious about nitrous, and you do need to be serious, get a real kit from either NX or zex, preferably NX. and make sure you really know what your doing.

[Lootrock]

Yeah, I'm probably getting a ZEX kit when I do get one. Even still, I'm gonna read up more on it, and talk to some people who have experience with it. Btw, how many 50 shots can you get out of 15lb bottle? Even if I get the kit before I know enough, I'm still not gonna put it on until I know what I'm doing, or feel somewhat confident. Even just by looking at the picture in that auction, it looks like there is mad shit missing for it work right or as smooth as this guy is putting it. Oh well.

[shortdogg2k05]

What is the safest most efficient way to use nitrous? I am a newb to the whole nitrous concept. I was told that since I am a rook that I should run about a 35 shot from NX.

[peanotation]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Lootrock)</div><div class='quotemain'> Btw, how many 50 shots can you get out of 15lb bottle? </div>

it depends on how long you spray for. in my auto i would start spraying halfway through first and wouldn't stop until it hit 4th gear, and for an automatic 7G, that's a long long time. i could do about 10 races on my 10lb bottle, and have about 2-4 pounds left over, which are useless since bottle pressure is so low at that point. if you just want to use it to push through a gear faster or get slightly ahead of a close race, then it'll last you a lot longer.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>What is the safest most efficient way to use nitrous?</div>
spray it into your engine, lol, i dont understand the question.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>I was told that since I am a rook that I should run about a 35 shot from NX.</div>
start as small as possible (35 from NX or 55 from ZEX unless you order smaller jets) and work your way up as you get more comfortable and learn how to use it better. the generic rule of thumb is a stock engine can hold a 75 shot (although it's still recomended you have alterior fuel mods) but i recomend never go above a 65 on stock engine, and i'll never move from a 55shot until i get engine work done.

[99_galant]

When you guys say engine modification, what exactly must be modified? And does the word "shot" mean a quick burst of nitrous??? What would I need to udgrade for a 8th gen G? And is changing my headers and down pipping(?) a waste of money and time?? I did want it a little louder. And what about the throttle body????

[Donovan]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Stewi)</div><div class='quotemain'>Yeah thats not the best analogy in the world to use. Using Nitrous isnt going to overheat your engine. And when setup properly engines running nitrous will last a long time. My friend ran a 50 shot on his civic for over 2 years with no problems at all, his car was bone stock, all he did was get a higher flowing fuel pump and a NX Wet Kit. Its all a matter of making sure you have enough fuel in the cylinder to burn all the air and nitrous. All nitrous does is bring more air into the cylinder. Nitrous doesnt blow engines, incorrectly designed and installed nitrous kits and immature users/drivers blow engines. You hear of all theses people with turbo and SDS kits on stock engines, that is more stress than nitrous, because the forced induction is constant, its always there, always beating on the engine internals. Like I said, its more about having it installed right, being able to respect it and use it wisely.</div>

IF I knew the smiley for the "applaud/clap" I'd give you one, that cleared me up alot.. thanks STEEEWWW

[shortdogg2k05]

how does the nx kit work, since I hear that you dont have to press a button to inject the nitrous? Do you just cut it on or off with a switch or what?

[Stewi]

Many nitrous kits arent the push button type, thats a "fast and the furious" misconception. However you can set up the kit to work that way. Basically in a standard wet kit, the kit has an RPM window switch which usually mounts under your gas pedal so that when you put the pedal to the floor then the switch is on, then there is an arming switch. THe arming switch when you turn it on means the nitrous is ready to spray. As soon as you get the pedal to the floor and the RPM switch is on, and so is the arming switch the nitrous will start spraying. SO whenever your at WOT it will spray nitrous and more fuel into the motor. Now not alot of people want the nitrous spraying everytime they put the pedal to the floor, so then they use a push button activation, along with the RPM switch. As long as you press the button down will be as long as it sprays. Its always important to retain the RPM switch because it prevents you from spraying in low RPM ranges which would cause engine damage. Its also good to use a wet kit because it injects both nitrous and fuel so that you always get the proper mixture. Its a good idea to get a higher flowing fuel pump because when you spray you want to make sure there is adaquet fuel pressure so that you dont spray more nitrous then fuel, because if you do, the car will run lean and damage your engine. On a 4G64 with stock internals I wouldnt run more than a 50 shot, I know alot of people who have ran 50's shots for a long time with no problems, like I said in my last post, you need to respect the nitrous and be mature about it, you cant go spraying it ALL the time and you cant spray it at like half throttle in 1st gear, thats when stuff starts breaking.

[shortdogg2k05]

:thumbsup: Thanks for the clarification, would it be wise to use a bigger thottle body w/ my CAI or should i just leave the stock one on? Let me rephrase that would I be able to notice the diff b/w the stock and the bigger TB?

[peanotation]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(shortdogg2k05)</div><div class='quotemain'>:thumbsup: Â*Thanks for the clarification, would it be wise to use a bigger thottle body w/ my CAI or should i just leave the stock one on? Â*Let me rephrase that would I be able to notice the diff b/w the stock and the bigger TB?</div>

leave the stock TB. just get a basic wet kit and bigger fuel pump, and you're set. also, good idea to re-wire the fuel pump (stock or aftermarket)

[Donovan]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Stewi)</div><div class='quotemain'>Many nitrous kits arent the push button type, thats a "fast and the furious" misconception. However you can set up the kit to work that way. Basically in a standard wet kit, the kit has an RPM window switch which usually mounts under your gas pedal so that when you put the pedal to the floor then the switch is on, then there is an arming switch. THe arming switch when you turn it on means the nitrous is ready to spray. As soon as you get the pedal to the floor and the RPM switch is on, and so is the arming switch the nitrous will start spraying. SO whenever your at WOT it will spray nitrous and more fuel into the motor. Now not alot of people want the nitrous spraying everytime they put the pedal to the floor, so then they use a push button activation, along with the RPM switch. As long as you press the button down will be as long as it sprays. Its always important to retain the RPM switch because it prevents you from spraying in low RPM ranges which would cause engine damage. Its also good to use a wet kit because it injects both nitrous and fuel so that you always get the proper mixture. Its a good idea to get a higher flowing fuel pump because when you spray you want to make sure there is adaquet fuel pressure so that you dont spray more nitrous then fuel, because if you do, the car will run lean and damage your engine. On a 4G64 with stock internals I wouldnt run more than a 50 shot, I know alot of people who have ran 50's shots for a long time with no problems, like I said in my last post, you need to respect the nitrous and be mature about it, you cant go spraying it ALL the time and you cant spray it at like half throttle in 1st gear, thats when stuff starts breaking.</div>

Interesting

[b-boy_sky]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(99_galant)</div><div class='quotemain'>When you guys say engine modification, what exactly must be modified? And does the word "shot" mean a quick burst of nitrous??? What would I need to udgrade for a 8th gen G? And is changing my headers and down pipping(?) a waste of money and time?? I did want it a little louder. And what about the throttle body????</div>

It's called a shot because it's forced very quickly into your engine. So no it's not a quick burst. The power will be there for as long as you have the system armed and the RPM switch activated. I would suggest you do change your headers and down piping. When nitrous is sprayed into your engine it creates a lot of oxygen. A better flowing exhaust will help that extra gas flow exit the engine. Like Peano said replace the fuel pump. The stock one will have some lag in it when nitrous first sprays in your engine and will eventually go bad from being overloaded.

And just for reference spraying nitrous for more than a 15 sec period could damage silenoids. This could mean a silenoid is leaking nitrous into your intake tube. If your intake tube is charged with nitrous and you start your car.... :explode:

[peanotation]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(b-boy_sky)</div><div class='quotemain'>

And just for reference spraying nitrous for more than a 15 sec period could damage silenoids. Â*This could mean a silenoid is leaking nitrous into your intake tube. Â*If your intake tube is charged with nitrous and you start your car.... :explode:</div>

well, going through the first 3 gears probably took over 15 seconds in my automatic, but with the nitrous it was definitely shorter than 15 seconds. i can still only spray through my first 3 gears in my 5spd, and they're shorter than the automatic's first 3 (duh)

[pinoyesv6]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(b-boy_sky)</div><div class='quotemain'>And just for reference spraying nitrous for more than a 15 sec period could damage silenoids. Â*This could mean a silenoid is leaking nitrous into your intake tube. Â*If your intake tube is charged with nitrous and you start your car.... :explode:</div>

how would the intake be charged up so much that it can blow up your car when you start up the car? i mean the intake tube is open so if nitrous was to leak into the intake tube it will just be released into the atmosphere via the air filter.

[b-boy_sky]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(pinoyesv6)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(b-boy_sky)</div><div class='quotemain'>And just for reference spraying nitrous for more than a 15 sec period could damage silenoids. Â*This could mean a silenoid is leaking nitrous into your intake tube. Â*If your intake tube is charged with nitrous and you start your car.... :explode:</div>

how would the intake be charged up so much that it can blow up your car when you start up the car? i mean the intake tube is open so if nitrous was to leak into the intake tube it will just be released into the atmosphere via the air filter.</div>

Nope. Your intake air would be charged with nitrous. That's why it's important to have a purge kit and to turn your bottle off when you are not using it. Most leaks are not bad and won't cause a problem unless the bottle stays open over night. Others are bad enough to where it will affect your idle when the bottle is open. I do belive there was a member here who had damaged his engine after starting his nitrous car one morning. I don't know if he ever figured out why but I would say to check the silenoid.

And Peano.....I was just giving that info to noobs on the site. I would do the same when I had my kit (spray from 1st through 3rd).

[peanotation]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(b-boy_sky)</div><div class='quotemain'>And Peano.....I was just giving that info to noobs on the site. Â*I would do the same when I had my kit (spray from 1st through 3rd).</div>

yeah, i know. i just wish i could spray through 4th (i know i can't through 5th) but compression would be too high. 3rd takes me to about 105mph though, so it's good enough cause most races shut down around there for me. i can't spray in 1st anymore though, it just breaks traction no matter what.

[Jet Black]

Those cartridges are used for food prep i believe.

[Lootrock]

Those cartridges are used for food prep i believe.

Hah, I wouldn't be suprised. You never know with Ebay......