V6 - How to Change Your Oil

[DryBear]

Note: this tutorial is geared for the V6, but should be similar for the I4.

Changing your oil is one of the more vital maintenance tasks for your car, and can be easily done by yourself. Oil changes should be done every 3000 miles.

NOTE: used motor oil is real nasty, hazardous stuff - make sure to wear gloves and old clothing as you will get oil on yourself.

Tools you will need:
http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v294/wanderingpinoy/8G%20Galant%20Oil%20Change/01-Stuff.jpg
Going clockwise from the picture:
Ramp or jack/jackstands
Oil Collection Pan
Filter Wrench
Torque Wrench
5/8" Socket
Gloves
Oil Filter
Oil Plug Gasket (Size M14)
4.5 Quarts of Oil
Shop towels and/or Rags
Not Pictured:
Wheel Blocks

First thing to do is to warm up the car - the oil comes out quicker when it is warm.
Then put the car up on ramps or jack up the car. I like to use the ramps as it is quicker, but you don't get as much clearance with jackstands.
http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v294/wanderingpinoy/8G%20Galant%20Oil%20Change/02-Ramp.jpg

Don't forget to set your parking brake and block off the rear wheels for safety as well.
http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v294/wanderingpinoy/8G%20Galant%20Oil%20Change/03-Block.jpg

Next, pop the hood, and open up the oil filler cap.
http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v294/wanderingpinoy/8G%20Galant%20Oil%20Change/04b-Engine.jpg

From underneath the car, place the oil collection pan under the car's oil plug. It's also a good idea to put some absorbant material under the collection pan as the oil can get everywhere.
http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v294/wanderingpinoy/8G%20Galant%20Oil%20Change/04-LocationsNoted.jpg

Remove the oil plug - remember, right tight, left loose. CAUTION, THE OIL WILL BE HOT! MAKE SURE TO BE WEARING GLOVES (I also use the rubber gloves that you use to wash dishes and that protects pretty well). If you have an open oil collection pan, be sure not to drop the oil plug into the pan (doh!). The oil should drain in about 3-5 minutes.
http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v294/wanderingpinoy/8G%20Galant%20Oil%20Change/05-Drain.jpg

While the oil is draining, clean off the oil plug and discard the old gasket. put the new gasket on the plug and set aside.

Inspect your new filter, and make sure the rubber seal is clean. Fill the new filter with oil. After the filter has been filled, take your (clean) finger and rub some of the oil along the rubber gasket. Set aside.
http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v294/wanderingpinoy/8G%20Galant%20Oil%20Change/07-NewFilter.jpg

Once the oil has finished draining, wipe the area around the plug opening clean and make sure it is free of debris. Carefully replace the oil plug with new gasket and tighten to 29 ft-lbs.

Move the oil collection pan to under the old oil filter. Use your filter wrench to LOOSEN the filter, then proceed to unscrew the old filter by hand - note that there is oil in the filter as well, so use caution as you remove the old filter. Drain the oil from the old oil filter and set aside.
http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v294/wanderingpinoy/8G%20Galant%20Oil%20Change/06-OldFilter.jpg

Clean the area where the oil filter was and make sure it is free of debris. Gently install the new oil filter, and tighten by hand only.

Almost done! Clean the area around the oil fill hole and feed yer baby some oil. Fill with 4.5 quarts of oil.

Take off the blocks and take your car down off the ramps or jackstands, and check the oil level with the dipstick - oil should be at the top notch.

Start the car and let it run for a bit. Look under the car and inspect for leaks. I also put some paper under the oil plug and filter when the car is sitting overnight to see if there are any leaks.

All done! Clean up, and dispose of the oil and old filter properly - most auto shops will take the oil off your hands.


Disclaimer: This guide is to be "used at your own risk". I take no responsibilities for errors, incorrect information, and make no representations or guarantees expressed or implied for any damages, mishaps, and/or pain and suffering that this may or will cause you.

[neel9]

is it the same for an I4?

[mrjaydeeone]

I have that same collection pan.and bad luck cause the 2 times I tried to change it myself I ended up stripping the drain plug and had to buy new ones


is it the same for an I4?

yes...although maybe the total amount of new oil you add might not be the same

[DryBear]

I have that same collection pan.and bad luck cause the 2 times I tried to change it myself I ended up stripping the drain plug and had to buy new ones


is it the same for an I4?

yes...although maybe the total amount of new oil you add might not be the same

Lol, yeah, that particular style of pan sucks as it is really too small - good for draining the filter though.

As for the I4, according to my Haynes manual, the I4 uses 4.5 quarts of oil as well - I'll dig up my Galant FSM CD and double check.

[Gtsnapper]

Thanks for this. Much easier than I thought, and quicker than a trip to the garage.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/Gtsnapper/Picture010.jpg

[pinoyesv6]

another tip i have, is to cover the oil filter with a plastic grocery bag as you unscrew it. any oil that drips out will drip into the bag and not down your arm or all over the place as you remove the filter. once the filter is removed you can just pour the oil into the pan.

[Gtsnapper]

I left mine to drain out for half an hour. Even after 15 mins the oil was still dripping out, and I wanted to get as much of it out as possible.

[BuzzPuppy]

You can tip in some cheap clean oil from the top and see what gunk/crap comes out the oil filter drain and sump drain before replacing the filter and plug and then filling 'er up.

It takes 4.5 litres to fill a 6A13TT engine from my experience.

http://www.ozvr4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1144

Above is our guide to not only change the oil but doing a flush as well to get the extra crap out.

Mind you, the flush is not ideal for old/high mileage engines where the build-up actually keeps the engine sealed :)

[MJ2002]

thank you for this info, I was unsure of one step but everything makes sense!!

[loriguinal]

what u guys think about the oil,which one is the best for my 8g

[polishmafia]

what u guys think about the oil,which one is the best for my 8g

welcome to TGC. this topic has been discussed many times here, so do some searching. you'll find your answers.

i prefer 5w30 ;)

[RastaAlejandro]

i'm doing this next week has anyone seen that lucas oil stabilizer?(the have it on the counter at the autozone......) i think you mix it 80% oil to 20% stabilizer... has anyone used the lucas? i was just thinking a good synth oil would work...

[Gtsnapper]

I just stick 5w30 synthetic oil in mine. Never found a need for stabalizers

[RAZ_76]

Good Tutorial but I will have to disagree with having to do the oil at 3000 miles. I've been driving for 17 years and I have done my oil changes at min 5K if needed. I usually do them at 7K. I never had any issues. I worked at a dealer for awhile and a good mechanic will tell you that also. Just like Tranny flushes are a waste of money and so is premature oil change.

[pinoyesv6]

Good Tutorial but I will have to disagree with having to do the oil at 3000 miles. I've been driving for 17 years and I have done my oil changes at min 5K if needed. I usually do them at 7K.

i will agree with you there.

one thing you do have to keep in mind, and something many MANY people overlook, is the filter. i've seen people use nice synthetic oil and use a crap brand filter like fram. good oil will go longer than 3k but who knows how long a crap brand filter can last. so if you are gonna go on longer intervals between oil changes, at least get a good oil filter.

[RedGalant2k1]

i will agree with you there.

one thing you do have to keep in mind, and something many MANY people overlook, is the filter. i've seen people use nice synthetic oil and use a crap brand filter like fram. good oil will go longer than 3k but who knows how long a crap brand filter can last. so if you are gonna go on longer intervals between oil changes, at least get a good oil filter.

I never had issues with Fram when I used them. Though now, I strictly use AMSoil oil and filters just for reference.

[boochieboy]

Fram oil filters are complete garbage in my opinion. I looked online at oil filters cut open and how they were constructed and fram are the absolute worst. The endcaps are made of cardboard like the cheaper brand filters are. I found that the Purolator pure one filters are the best for me(for the amount I'm willing to pay for an oil filter). Check out this link http://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/fram.shtml or do some research of your own,,,I'll never use a fram again.

[RAZ_76]

I use Mobil One extended performance and I change them every other oil change, so about 14K.

[Serstylz2]

So from this image i should jack the pass. side to get to the plug and filter.. changing my tires today so i said screw it why not, i'm over my mileage

[polishmafia]

Yeah, it'd be easier if you lifted it on the passenger side. Your best bet would be to keep it level so you can drain as much oil as possible.

[Jeffylou87]

I got a K&N oil filter. Purolator is what we use when we do oil changes at Strauss.. I'll be doing mine tomorrow. Quaker State 5W-30 was on sale and I got a bottle of engine flush too..

[Serstylz2]

what model number or type should i be looking for the filter, that always confused me

[DryBear]

There is usually a book near the filters that tell you what filter model to use, or just ask the guys at the counter to look it up. I know the K&N V6 filter is HP-1004 :lol:

[polishmafia]

Napa Brand (Wix I think) is 21356. I only know this from doing oil changes on other Galants that come into the shop.

[aris120km]

Hi guys;
I am kinda new here
what do you think about OEM oilfilter? (mtsubishi's)
and please enlighten me about Fram? is this a brand? if so do they cost less?

[polishmafia]

Yes, Fram is a brand of oil filter. Don't use it. Its cheap.

OEM filters are the only way to go.

[01nygalant]

cool thanks

[greddy]

I use a Greddy oil filter

[03-Galant-ES]

I use the k&n oil filter and air filter they seem reliable I use synthetic 10w30 for summer it doesnt need additives and i found it lubed better then the 5w30 I was using the previous summer I normally use a jack and jack stand to and another easy way to keep it from dripping everywhere is to use a funnel I built a stupid little stand that holds the funnel right below the drain so the plug can fall if it wants to.

[johnygezony]

I can get OEM stuff cheap,my dad is a mitsubishi salesman and i know the parts counter guys, should i got with a OEM or K&N ?

[polishmafia]

Well your car came with an OEM filter, so why not continue to use them?

[Jeffylou87]

I use a Greddy oil filter

lol, what else would you use?

[johnygezony]

Well your car came with an OEM filter, so why not continue to use them?

Point Taken, guess ill just go OEM then

[galantebeige]

After reading this tutorial I feel ready to do my own oil change. Just a couple of questions please:

One tool called for is the torque wrench.
As the initial post says "tighten to 29 ft-lbs..."

I went to autozone and they did not have anything like it. Were can I buy a decent, durable one? Not really looking for the most expensive either, just one that works. I think this tool is an important tool to own, right?

I understand this tool is not absolutely necessary for this job, and that I could just tighten it with a good guestimate, but I would feel a lot better using this tool as described.

Second question: After reading the whole thread I believe there really is no difference between the I6 and the I4 (the one I have)? Not even the final oil capacity, I think? (4.5 quarts of oil).

Thanks!

[Dominicano]

if your using the oem crush washer you will know once it feels flat your good, i just pull slowy until i felt i used to much of my man power lol

[DryBear]

The torque wrench is not absolutely necessary, but is a very good tool to have when working on cars, as for some instances, the correct torque is important. You can pick up a good one from Sears, Home Depot, etc. I am surprised that your local Autozone doesn't have a torque wrench.

As for oil capacities, both the I4 and V6 use 4.5 quarts (with oil filter). Only real difference with oil change with the I4 and V6 are location of the oil drain plug and filter.

[galantebeige]

Thanks for the quick replies!

Autozone had a wheel torque wrench. Meaning high torque numbers on it. I think I am correct believing that this is not accurate enough and not within the appropriate range for this kind of work. Again thanks, I think I will visit the big box retailers next...

[johnygezony]

My bolt plug will not move to i just gave up...i hit it with penetrating oil aswell and still nothing !

[gtx]

My bolt plug will not move to i just gave up...i hit it with penetrating oil aswell and still nothing !
Come on man. Put the handle of your jack (or a long pipe) over the handle of the wrench and try again.

[johnygezony]

i just gotta get closer to my garage, im just gonna try and use my air wrench.

[littlerick]

air wrench on a oil pan? that doesnt seem like that great of a idea. like gtx said put something on the end of it (to give you more leverage) or breaker bar (same idea as something at the end of it)

[RedGalant2k1]

air wrench on a oil pan? that doesnt seem like that great of a idea. like gtx said put something on the end of it (to give you more leverage) or breaker bar (same idea as something at the end of it)

There is more risk to snapping the bolt off in the oil pan with a breaker bar and a pipe than a air ratchet.

[littlerick]

i would have thought the air ratchet would have more torque. i learn something everyday from this site. thanks for the info