AT>MT Question

[spyder97gs]

Well I dropped the tranny/motor back in my car. It looks like the passenger side tranny mount bracket is going to be different, and so is the rear. The passenger side would work, except for the bracket I took off the AT already has bolts welded to it, and the MT tranny has the bolts in it to go through holes. Did you guys have to get both new mounts? As for your clutch line, where did you end up getting one long enough? Thanks.

[peanotation]

as for the clutch line, since i'm doing it now, get yourself the OE mitsubishi hard line from the dealer. it'll cost you $50 but you'll have a gauranteed clutchline for a long while. if you build the SS teflon line, you might have leaking issues, since everyone who's done it, is leaking fluid somewhere.

[seth98esT]

I finally got my teflon line not to leak. But your best bet would be to get an oem hard line then SS line to the slave. Teflon line is nice, works fine for me, but it was a pain to get not to leak.

[spyder97gs]

So the OEM clutch line only runs part of the way, right? I'll need to get the SS line as well to run the rest of the way?

[seth98esT]

Either that or get the stock rubber line.

[DOHCstunr]

i imagine the best thing to get if you were planning this swap would be one of these.
http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=3886& ('http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=3886&')
it will be about the same price after you buy the stock hard line and a stainless flex line. except this will look a lot cleaner. and will be easier to install and will bleed faster too.
not to mention no worry of leaking cause they are hydrolicaly crimped on fittings.

[spyder97gs]

Great, thanks.

As for the motor mounts can anyone speculate on that? My passenger side motor mount/bracket is not going to work, and i'm not so sure about the rear either. Did you guys have to replace both the bracket and the mount for the side, and rear?

[seth98esT]

Wow that is awesome. Didnt know someone offered a kit. Definitely would be zero leaks with that kit. I might pick one up in a bit.

For the mounts, I cant remember what I used. I know I used all auto mounts, not sure if the brackets lined up or not. I nkow I posted it here somewhere, just have to find it.

[peanotation]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(seth98esT)</div><div class='quotemain'>Wow that is awesome. Â*Didnt know someone offered a kit. Â*Definitely would be zero leaks with that kit. Â*I might pick one up in a bit.

</div>

ditto. good find john, i'll be ordering it instead of the OE hard line

[spyder97gs]

I ordered one from RRE. They said they have to custom make it and it will take 3 days. $60. I hope it includes all the fittings to connect it.

[spyder97gs]

Did any of your gears feel "choppy" or notchy at first? Mine are a little notchy, but all will engage fine. I don't have use of the clutch yet as i'm waiting on my SS clutch line to get here. Do you guys think once the hydraulics start working it will make engagement much better? This tranny is suppose to have 79k on it.

[peanotation]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(spyder97gs)</div><div class='quotemain'>Did any of your gears feel "choppy" or notchy at first? Mine are a little notchy, but all will engage fine. I don't have use of the clutch yet as i'm waiting on my SS clutch line to get here. Do you guys think once the hydraulics start working it will make engagement much better? This tranny is suppose to have 79k on it.</div>

well duh. it'll feel a lot better. my tranny has been one of those notchy ones, and a lot of guys on dsmtuners claim it's just the nature of the beast. it's tough during a race, cause there's almost a half second between each of my shifts because it's so notchy and sticky. very rarely i can't even get it into a certain gear. just have to let the clutch pedal back out and go back in, always goes in the second time.

also, if you grind going into reverse: push the clutch in, put it into first, then go directly into reverse and you'll never grind. if i put it directly into reverse it always grinds for a split second.

[DOHCstunr]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(peanotation)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(spyder97gs)</div><div class='quotemain'>Did any of your gears feel "choppy" or notchy at first? Mine are a little notchy, but all will engage fine. I don't have use of the clutch yet as i'm waiting on my SS clutch line to get here. Do you guys think once the hydraulics start working it will make engagement much better? This tranny is suppose to have 79k on it.</div>

well duh. it'll feel a lot better. my tranny has been one of those notchy ones, and a lot of guys on dsmtuners claim it's just the nature of the beast. it's tough during a race, cause there's almost a half second between each of my shifts because it's so notchy and sticky. very rarely i can't even get it into a certain gear. just have to let the clutch pedal back out and go back in, always goes in the second time.

also, if you grind going into reverse: push the clutch in, put it into first, then go directly into reverse and you'll never grind. if i put it directly into reverse it always grinds for a split second.</div>
i always line up second then put it in reverse.

you also have to realize that your tranny hasn't been lubricated in a while. once you get it in and running, everything will feel much better. plus, it has to warm up too.

[spyder97gs]

What did you guys do with the cooler lines that ran to your AT. Did you just unhook them from the cooler or what?

[DOHCstunr]

just disconnect them and let em drain out from the radiator. you can remove the air cooled cooler from the front if you would like. but its not a bad idea to get a oil cooler adaptor kit and use your old liquid to air oil tranny oil cooler for engine oil cooling. of course you'll have to clean it first.
wouldn't be a bad idea to cap off the hose fittings to the in radiator tranny cooler just cause thats a copper tube that goes through the radiator and you don't want it to rust through.

[peanotation]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCSTUNR)</div><div class='quotemain'>
wouldn't be a bad idea to cap off the hose fittings to the in radiator tranny cooler just cause thats a copper tube that goes through the radiator and you don't want it to rust through.</div>

or re-route your powering steering through there