WAKS69
07-05-2005, 08:27 PM
Black Housing Headlights Tutorial
http://www.galantspeed.com/gart/BadGoodLens.jpg
Black Housing Headlights Tutorial
I am sure many of us with 7G Galants would like to or are planning to get a set of J-spec headlights for our 7G's. I also wanted a pair but notice a couple of things that I questioned when I saw them installed on a U.S. 7G and saw them on a Japanese 7G when I was in the Philippines. The Japanese 7G galants have a much shorter "nose" than the U.S. Galants. (Also the Japanese Galants rears are shorter too. *bumper wise*) When I was in the Philippines and looked at some Japanese 7G's and even got to look at a pair at a local Mitsubishi dealer there too, I noticed the width of the headlight looked "shorter". I noticed that and also the lens was real glass not our plastic. I am not sure which member of TGC posted pics of his J-specs on his U.S 7G. He has a green Galant and he had plenty of gap where the bumper meets the headlight. My intial theory was that the U.S. spec headlights were longer width wise due to our longer nose and probably why our headlights is 1 piece and not 2 piece like the J-specs. If you notice when you take off 7G headlights, there is almost a 1" gap from the headlight chrome casing to the front of the lens. Usually the chrome casing goes all the way to the front of the lens casing in other cars. This is totally my theory from what I observed and I really didn't want to spend $300 on a set of J-specs that might not fit right. I think the J-specs are HOT as hell, but just not sure about getting them yet.
The reason I like the J-specs is because of the black housing, which I find HOT! While coming up with the theory...I came up with a idea to make my U.S. spec headlights have black housing. I didn't want to just clear corners out....what motivated me is my boy Julius doing a Siliva S15 Headlight conversion on his 96 Eclipse GS-T. I know many of us in the galant community aren't making all the $$$$ and are candidates in being in MTV's "CRIBS" so I found a way to make 7G headlights with Black-housings for less than $10.
Basically I used NYCtrini's (detailed) tutorial for clearing corners up to Step 16. You will need the tools required listed by NYCtrini and these tools
- Exacto Knife
- Masking Tape
- High Heat Black Spray Paint (I used Black Gloss Krylon High Heat w/ Ceramic)
- Silicone (Make sure its weather proof)
(Continuing NYCtrini's Clearing Corners tutorial from Step 16)
Step 17 -
Once you pry open the end where the Amber lens is located you'll have another screw that holds side light housing to the actual lens. You will have to unscrew it so you can take off the lens from the housing.
Step 18 -
Use the Heat Gun or Blow Dryer to heat the factory silicone where the lens and housing casing meet. (Be patient...use your flathead screwdriver to remove most of the factory silicone off)
Step 19 -
Gently pry the edges to seperate the lens from the housing casing. You might have to re-heat again to soften factory silicone that may of hardened.
Step 20 -
Clean and prep the housing and Mask areas that you want chrome. Make sure that tape is secure and overlap masking tape to prevent paint from leaking.
Step 21 - (Optional)
Mask the front lens and outer edges where excess factory silicone is located. If you want to mask the outer lens go ahead. I did this to give the effect of darker headlights.
Step 22 -
Mask the edges of the housing casing where the lens meet so excess factory silicone won't get sprayed painted on. .
Step 23 -
Spray paint areas where you want to to have black housing. Use proper spray paint techinque labeled on the spray paint can. Use spray 5 layers of paint.
Step 24 -
Let paint dry for at least recommended time listed on spray can.
Step 25 -
Before taking masking tape off....use your exacto knife to Gently cut where the masking tape and painted area meet. (This is to prevent paint that dryed to tape to come off with the tape)
Step 26 -
Inspect housing and lens if there is any masking tape left and clean the chrome housing if there is any dirt, fingerprints, or any other smudges left with a damp cloth (water) and dry it.
Step 27 -
Place lens and housing casing together, put screw back from Step 17
Step 28 -
You will have to re-heat the edges where the lens and housing meet so silicone will soften. You should re-seal the edges with silicone. You might need another person to apply pressure to lens and headlight housing. ( I had my g/f sit on headlight while I heated the edges to get factory silicone so lens and casing would be firmly secure.)
Step 29 -
Put back housing clips
Step 30 -
Install them custom badass headlights on your Galant.
Step 31 - (Optional)
Drive around and pimp it!
http://www.galantspeed.com/gart/tutorialBH.jpg
http://www.galantspeed.com/gart/BadGoodLens.jpg
Black Housing Headlights Tutorial
I am sure many of us with 7G Galants would like to or are planning to get a set of J-spec headlights for our 7G's. I also wanted a pair but notice a couple of things that I questioned when I saw them installed on a U.S. 7G and saw them on a Japanese 7G when I was in the Philippines. The Japanese 7G galants have a much shorter "nose" than the U.S. Galants. (Also the Japanese Galants rears are shorter too. *bumper wise*) When I was in the Philippines and looked at some Japanese 7G's and even got to look at a pair at a local Mitsubishi dealer there too, I noticed the width of the headlight looked "shorter". I noticed that and also the lens was real glass not our plastic. I am not sure which member of TGC posted pics of his J-specs on his U.S 7G. He has a green Galant and he had plenty of gap where the bumper meets the headlight. My intial theory was that the U.S. spec headlights were longer width wise due to our longer nose and probably why our headlights is 1 piece and not 2 piece like the J-specs. If you notice when you take off 7G headlights, there is almost a 1" gap from the headlight chrome casing to the front of the lens. Usually the chrome casing goes all the way to the front of the lens casing in other cars. This is totally my theory from what I observed and I really didn't want to spend $300 on a set of J-specs that might not fit right. I think the J-specs are HOT as hell, but just not sure about getting them yet.
The reason I like the J-specs is because of the black housing, which I find HOT! While coming up with the theory...I came up with a idea to make my U.S. spec headlights have black housing. I didn't want to just clear corners out....what motivated me is my boy Julius doing a Siliva S15 Headlight conversion on his 96 Eclipse GS-T. I know many of us in the galant community aren't making all the $$$$ and are candidates in being in MTV's "CRIBS" so I found a way to make 7G headlights with Black-housings for less than $10.
Basically I used NYCtrini's (detailed) tutorial for clearing corners up to Step 16. You will need the tools required listed by NYCtrini and these tools
- Exacto Knife
- Masking Tape
- High Heat Black Spray Paint (I used Black Gloss Krylon High Heat w/ Ceramic)
- Silicone (Make sure its weather proof)
(Continuing NYCtrini's Clearing Corners tutorial from Step 16)
Step 17 -
Once you pry open the end where the Amber lens is located you'll have another screw that holds side light housing to the actual lens. You will have to unscrew it so you can take off the lens from the housing.
Step 18 -
Use the Heat Gun or Blow Dryer to heat the factory silicone where the lens and housing casing meet. (Be patient...use your flathead screwdriver to remove most of the factory silicone off)
Step 19 -
Gently pry the edges to seperate the lens from the housing casing. You might have to re-heat again to soften factory silicone that may of hardened.
Step 20 -
Clean and prep the housing and Mask areas that you want chrome. Make sure that tape is secure and overlap masking tape to prevent paint from leaking.
Step 21 - (Optional)
Mask the front lens and outer edges where excess factory silicone is located. If you want to mask the outer lens go ahead. I did this to give the effect of darker headlights.
Step 22 -
Mask the edges of the housing casing where the lens meet so excess factory silicone won't get sprayed painted on. .
Step 23 -
Spray paint areas where you want to to have black housing. Use proper spray paint techinque labeled on the spray paint can. Use spray 5 layers of paint.
Step 24 -
Let paint dry for at least recommended time listed on spray can.
Step 25 -
Before taking masking tape off....use your exacto knife to Gently cut where the masking tape and painted area meet. (This is to prevent paint that dryed to tape to come off with the tape)
Step 26 -
Inspect housing and lens if there is any masking tape left and clean the chrome housing if there is any dirt, fingerprints, or any other smudges left with a damp cloth (water) and dry it.
Step 27 -
Place lens and housing casing together, put screw back from Step 17
Step 28 -
You will have to re-heat the edges where the lens and housing meet so silicone will soften. You should re-seal the edges with silicone. You might need another person to apply pressure to lens and headlight housing. ( I had my g/f sit on headlight while I heated the edges to get factory silicone so lens and casing would be firmly secure.)
Step 29 -
Put back housing clips
Step 30 -
Install them custom badass headlights on your Galant.
Step 31 - (Optional)
Drive around and pimp it!
http://www.galantspeed.com/gart/tutorialBH.jpg