PDA

View Full Version : Clutch pedal not returning



spyder97gs
07-07-2005, 03:14 PM
So I put my RRE SS clutch line on and bled it. The pedal still stays to the floor. There is no return spring on my clutch, so I tried the one off of the brake pedal. It helped, but it would still stay on the floor every few times I pumped it. Do I need the correct spring, or is there still air in the line? Thanks guys.

peanotation
07-07-2005, 04:42 PM
you shouldn't need the spring. the spring is there to just even out the dead space at the beggining of the clutch travel. if you're not getting a return (it's staying on the floor) there's still air in the line, or something's still not right in the line. the pressure plate inside the bell housing will have more than enough power to push the pedal back.

the GS came with a helper spring to make it seem more "luxorious" since the spring would even out the pedal feel.

edit: it's called the turnover spring, but i think you're talking about the little spring that just hooks into the clutch pedal.
http://socallifestyle.com/tutorial/21-2.jpg

DOHCstunr
07-07-2005, 04:44 PM
So I put my RRE SS clutch line on and bled it. The pedal still stays to the floor. There is no return spring on my clutch, so I tried the one off of the brake pedal. It helped, but it would still stay on the floor every few times I pumped it. Do I need the correct spring, or is there still air in the line? Thanks guys.
you almost have to have a ton of air left in the line.

take a clear glass jar, put about an inch and a half of clean fluid in it.
then attatch a piece of vaccum hose to the bleeder nipple on the slave and submerge the other end in the fluid.
then just keep filling the resevoir up (DO NOT LET IT GO EMPTY) as you have a buddy or a family member pump the pedal (not too fast, just a steady pace with smooth pumps.
bleed about a whole pint of fluid through the system. just to make sure all of the air is out, and in order to ensure the didrty fluid or any contaminants have been purged/ flushed.
make sure you tighten the bleeder during but before they complete the last pump. Make sure resevoir is at proper level.

make sure there are no abnormal loops or vertical bends in the line where air could be trapped. try to make it as straight as possible.
if after you bleed it it still doesn't come up, or ther isn't any resistance when you push the pedal down. then check to see if the slave rod is contacting and moving the clutch fork when the pedal is depressed.
if the slave rod is moving, but its not contacting the fork, then you need to adjust master cylinder rod where the pedal connects(please also make sure that you put grease on the place where the slave rod connects to the clutch fork otherwise premature wear and noise will result).

I strongly suggest you get a mitsu tech to adjust your pedal after you get it running so that you won't have any slippage or disengagement/ partial engagement problems. just bring ten bucks with you to a mitsu dealer and walk right up to a tech and tell em you'll throw a few bills their way if they set your pedal to spec. only takes a few minutes.
btw everytime you put a new clutch in or flyweel you need to adjust your pedal.

DOHCstunr
07-07-2005, 04:48 PM
and matt, my pedal feels damn luxurious.
i didn't know that other galants didn't have the resevoir mounted on the tranny.
i think there is a special restrictor inside like on 1st gen trannies.
weird.
i know the restrictor on other 2nd gen and 7th gen trannies is behind the banjo bolt on the slave.

peanotation
07-07-2005, 09:52 PM
i adjusted my master cylinder and pedal adjuster to engage the clutch as soon as you come off the floor, and there's no dead space at the begining or end of the pedal's travel, it's friction the entire way.

DOHCstunr
07-07-2005, 10:40 PM
there's supposed to be about an inch at both ends.

be careful cause 2nd gen/ 7th gen clutch master cylinders can "pump up" and cause the slave to extend erratically. your pedal will get super hard one minute, then a fewe minutes later be normal again. if this happens, then you need to adjust your pedal stop. so that it comes up a little higher. which i would do anyways so you can be absolutly sure your cutch is fully engaged.

peanotation
07-08-2005, 01:42 PM
there's a tiny amount of dead space when the clutch is let all the way out, just to make sure it's completely engaged. i can't stand clutch pedals that have all this dead travel in them. like my ex's tiburon, 75% of the pedal's travel was just bullshit. kinda like our relationship.

DOHCstunr
07-08-2005, 02:12 PM
lol

ChikagoGTZ
07-08-2005, 04:55 PM
Aw...

spyder97gs
07-10-2005, 09:40 AM
I've got about an inch of freeplay when the pedal is up. The rest feels good. I've tried bleeding and bleeding using the method listed here and other methods, and the pedal will come up. But if it's held down for too long it will stay down. I'm getting at my wits end with this car!

DOHCstunr
07-10-2005, 11:14 AM
you may have a bad slave cylinder. quite common actually

are you a gs-t?
does it happen when you take a left turn?
if it does, you walked your crank

DOHCstunr
07-10-2005, 11:16 AM
to check outyour slave, juts pull back the rubber boot thats on it, if there is any moisture inside it(brake fluid) then you need to replace it.

spyder97gs
07-10-2005, 11:28 AM
It's a brand new slave from Napa. I've never even gotten to drive it yet since the 5spd swap and motor swap. The master cyl was used, could that cause the issue? RRE sent me a fitting to thread into the master cylinder that has too many threads and fluid would leak out, so I added washers and it looks like it fixed it, so Im kind of eliminating that as my prob. Fluid comes out like there is no air in there when I bleed it. Thanks for the quick replies also

DOHCstunr
07-10-2005, 12:09 PM
i had to replace the master and slave on my gs when my pedal went dead.
think proto did too on his.
goes to show tht your master isn't bulletproof.
if your was used, and it didn't have any fluid in it to begin with, odds are the seals inside it dried out, and or the pump itself deteriorated.
but i don't know how to test a master.

all i know is you have a new slave, a new clutch line, and an old master.
those are the only tree components to your clutch.
(other than the clutch fork, throwout and the clutch iassembly itself.
which these wouldn't yeild the symptoms you are talking about.)

given that you have inconsistancies. i would imagine it was the master.