View Full Version : idleing and shaking
juan18_c
10-25-2005, 12:11 PM
after running the car for at least 15 mins or mostly on the highway. If I come to a complete stop my car lowers its RPMS to almost 500 sometimes lower and once it even turned off. anyone has any ideas on what could be causing this? I have tried changing fuel types and grades but it still doesn't work. What about idle control should i change it to higher rpms? advise?
Dominicano
10-25-2005, 12:34 PM
What do you have installed in your car? I had the problem with my intake installed always gave me crazy idle, and also the battery cause it to turn off a few times
FRCFD6
10-25-2005, 01:01 PM
vacuum leak maybe ?
silversound
10-28-2005, 03:07 PM
My car is doing the same thing,It has never cut of but when i drive for about 20mins and come to a stop its rpm's drop and it has a rough idle. I have and 01 V6. Does anyone know what it could be. It drives normal when on the freeway and when i dont make complete stops. I was told it needed new spark plugs and wires,since they have never been changed and the car has 101,000 miles. Can anyone help me out? Thanks :twisted:
silversound
10-28-2005, 03:09 PM
My car is doing the same thing,It has never cut of but when i drive for about 20mins and come to a stop its rpm's drop and it has a rough idle. I have and 01 V6. Does anyone know what it could be. It drives normal when on the freeway and when i dont make complete stops. I was told it needed new spark plugs and wires,since they have never been changed and the car has 101,000 miles. Can anyone help me out? Thanks :twisted:
DryBear
10-28-2005, 04:27 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(silversound)</div><div class='quotemain'>My car is doing the same thing,It has never cut of but when i drive for about 20mins and come to a stop its rpm's drop and it has a rough idle. I have and 01 V6. Does anyone know what it could be. It drives normal when on the freeway and when i dont make complete stops. I was told it needed new spark plugs and wires,since they have never been changed and the car has 101,000 miles. Can anyone help me out? Thanks Â*:twisted:</div>
Wow, I'm suprised you ran that long - you defineitly need new plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor.
silversound
10-28-2005, 04:44 PM
u think so. I might sound dumb,but what is a distributor cap and a rotor and what do they do. And does any think i should get the timing belt done 2. Im a poor student https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif so money is kinda tight.
pinoyesv6
10-28-2005, 07:28 PM
if you haven't done the timing belt yet then do that first. better to have a crappy running engine than one that doesn't run at all.
if you open up the hood. you'll see the 3 spark plug wires. if you pull them out and look down the hole you'll see 3 spark plugs.
follow the wire to where it plugs in near the battery. the place it plugs in is called the distributor cap
remove the distributor cap, and you'll see the rotor. that just pulls out
ok back to the distributor cap, you'll see 3 more spark plug wires that lead to the back part of the engine. remove those 3 wires and you'll see 3 more spark plugs to change.
sounds easy? it isn't. but yea, thats the location of where they are.
shiznit013
11-06-2005, 10:19 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>I might sound dumb,but what is a distributor cap and a rotor and what do they do.</div>
A rotor, in this instance, is a device that spins inside a distributor creating a connection between an ignition coil and a post that has a connection to a spark plug via a spark plug wire.
Imagine 6 posts equally spaced on the outside of a circle, and another circle with only 1 post rotating over top of it. As the single post passes over top of one of the 6, a bridge is created sending an electronic signal to 1 spark plug. At the same time, the piston housed in the same cylinder as the spark plug compresses. Compressed air + fuel + spark = your engine running properly. This ensures that only one cylinder is firing at a time, and that they are firing in the correct order.
Over time the posts in your distributor can corode or develop carbon buildup which stops them from firing correctly, and ultimately stops your engine from running smoothly (or at all in an extreme case).
The distributor cap merely covers the distributor and rotor. Hope this helps.
silversound
11-10-2005, 11:34 PM
Is there a way to turn up the idle in our cars (V6) because i got new plug and wires,distributor and rotor,timing belt, water pump and my G drives like new.but i still have the idle problem and it only happend when the car is fully warmed up? Any peeps out there got any suggetsions? Thanks [/img]
silversound
11-14-2005, 01:27 PM
BUMP
silversound
11-20-2005, 07:59 PM
does anyone have suggetsions on what can be done abou this problem...its driving me nuts...I am so annoyed that i was thinking of buying a Honda... :twisted:
I had a similar problem over the summer. When the car is warmed up and comes to a stop, the idle gets crappy and sometimes stalls. My problem was caused by the IAC Motor (Idle Air Control Motor) and I ended up replacing it. While I had my engine apart, I cleaned out my intake manifold and replaced my valve cover gaskets and spark plugs.
You could try running some Seafoam through there if you don't want to rip it apart. Here's a post regarding how to use it but over a different problem.
https://www.thegalantcenter.org/viewt...pic.php?t=40287 ('https://www.thegalantcenter.org/viewtopic.php?t=40287')
silversound
11-21-2005, 12:15 AM
Hey SROL...How much did this end up costing you? That is the my problem exactly. Thanks
silversound
11-27-2005, 11:45 PM
bump
silversound
12-06-2005, 01:13 AM
bump
juan18_c
12-13-2005, 06:48 AM
Well thanx alot guys for your input, I went to my mechanic and he said it might be a vaccum leak there is a little vaccum by the manifold(which i will shortly post a pic of) that might be faulty and is making this ticking noise
thanx a mill
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(silversound)</div><div class='quotemain'>Hey SROL...How much did this end up costing you? That is the my problem exactly. Thanks</div>
Whoops, sorry. I forget I post to some threads and never check them again.
The IAC Motor was about $120 from a junk yard ($400 from the dealer). Valve Cover Gaskets were about $30. And then some Iridium Spark Plugs (can't remember how much those were which is probably a good thing). I did all of it myself so there was no charge for labor.
Gaskets and plugs I got from Autozone.
The junkyard I usually buy things from is located in California. They've had excellent service and fast shipping so far: M & S Recycling ('http://www.msrecycling.com/')
Anyway, I hope that helps.
silversound
01-03-2006, 05:39 PM
Thanks for the info. I took my car into the dealer and it they finally figured out that it was my IAC motor,and my motor mounts were bad to.But Thanks again for the info! :twisted:
manybrews
01-03-2006, 05:41 PM
clean your throttle body.
problem solved.
silversound
01-05-2006, 04:54 PM
I tried cleaning the throttle body. but that did not make a difference. after the dealership chnaged my mounts my car is soooo much smoother but the shaking is still present but not as noticable.
Kalamidad
02-24-2006, 03:32 PM
Well thanx alot guys for your input, I went to my mechanic and he said it might be a vaccum leak there is a little vaccum by the manifold(which i will shortly post a pic of) that might be faulty and is making this ticking noise
thanx a mill
I just had my intake manifold replace after it broke, and now i have that tiking sound you're talking about. I also have the weird Idle and now my Service Engine Light came on. Got the code P4021. I know it's because of my air leak. The only problem in that i'm in TX now and i had the Intake Manifold replaced in NY. So...in other words....THIS PUCKING SUCKS FOR ME.
Sorry for venting. https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif
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