6G72 Race Block Installation

[Tearstone]

Saw a 4cyl engine pictoral, and could not leave the 6G72 guys out in the cold.

I am eventually going to write a Howto: for this product, but for now here are the pictoral tour of what the swap was like:

First off, this is the race block upgrade ('http://tearstone.com/shop/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=278&category_id=32&option=com_phpshop&Itemid=2') that we offer through Tearstone Performance. This is a complete solution for those that want to substantially increase their horsepower potential with this engine to around 450whp from the 300~320ish the bottom end usually makes before the pistons break apart.

http://www.boosted3g.com/C3G/OrlandoGT/Club3g%20016.jpg

Note: In this picture you can see replacement refreshed heads (costs about $400 to perform this at the machine shop to your old heads) because when you do things properly you do not take your used heads and plop them on top of a bottom end that you just dropped serious $$ on.
http://www.boosted3g.com/C3G/OrlandoGT/Club3g%20017.jpg

http://www.boosted3g.com/C3G/OrlandoGT/Club3g%20020.jpg

First, you have to yank out your old engine

http://www.boosted3g.com/C3G/OrlandoGT/Club3g%20022.jpg

Lower it onto the stand
http://www.boosted3g.com/C3G/OrlandoGT/Club3g%20027.jpg

Notice in this picture, all of the pulleys were removed to insure clearance out of the engine bay after hatching the engine & tranny

http://www.boosted3g.com/C3G/OrlandoGT/Club3g%20029.jpg

This is what the engine bay looks like once you pull the engine out. As you can see the torque convertor would be extremely easy to pull out right now.

http://www.boosted3g.com/C3G/OrlandoGT/Club3g%20032.jpg

Notice in this picture that powersteering simply had to be unbolted off the engine without needing to drain it to actually pull the pump out. Also the axle which is typically bolted to the back of the engine on the carrier bearing can sit freely. Beware of course, if you pull the axle out of the tranny at this point you are going to have a sea of tranny fluid leak out of your differential.

http://www.boosted3g.com/C3G/OrlandoGT/Club3g%20034.jpg

Picture of what the engine looks like without the cam gear covers

http://www.boosted3g.com/C3G/OrlandoGT/Club3g%20037.jpg

Pulled the injector rail, intake plenum, water feed neck, distributer, water pump, knock sensor and heads off

http://www.boosted3g.com/C3G/OrlandoGT/Club3g%20085.jpg

Quite a bit of damage done to the stock engine (2 bar will do that), 3 pistons in the front looked very similar to this one, and the rear piston had a minor chip in it. Yet, he still drove it over for the swap LOL.

http://www.boosted3g.com/C3G/OrlandoGT/Club3g%20081.jpg

After blowing 4 pistons, the heads are in remarkable shape, very little damage done to these heads at all

http://tearstone.com/events/10090510.jpg

This is the short block in it's broken down form

http://tearstone.com/events/10090505.jpg

Here is most of the parts off the engine (not pictured, oil pump, rear seal and oil pan)

http://tearstone.com/events/10090507.jpg

This is the oil pump (front seal), the brown crank seals need to be replaced when changing out the short blocks. These are $8 a pop

http://tearstone.com/eclipse/10110501.jpg

Rear seal is $25

http://tearstone.com/eclipse/10110505.jpg

Pulled off the old short block, and mounted the new one:

http://tearstone.com/eclipse/10150502.jpg

http://tearstone.com/eclipse/10150503.jpg

Oil pump/front seal requires mad RTV bead skills:

http://tearstone.com/eclipse/10150504.jpg

One head fixed onto the engine, this is a stock head gasket (handled completely with rubber gloves) ready for the next head.

http://tearstone.com/eclipse/10150505.jpg

Both heads affixed

http://tearstone.com/eclipse/10150506.jpg

Engine is all buttoned up, time to go back into the car.

http://notbusy.com/js1.jpg

Important to be very careful in mating the engine back up with the tranny

http://notbusy.com/js3.jpg

Turbo kit reinstalled (he had most of the piping custom altered and created by a muffler shop)

http://www.boosted3g.com/C3G/OrlandoGT/IMG_0052.JPG

Primed the engine, then started her right up. I looked at the E-01 and the idle was at a dead 700 RPMs + - 1-2 RPM variance. The idle alone brought a tear to my eye at how awesome the shortblock upgrade was having a balanced engine.

If anyone has any questions about the race block or the installation process let me know. We are taking the block that came out of his car and making another race block for Rulez car now :woot:

More pictures & play-by-play: http://club3gfl.com/board/showthread.php?t...77&page=1&pp=30 ('http://club3gfl.com/board/showthread.php?t=5077&page=1&pp=30')

[Dominicano]

Wow no one replied to this post :shock:

If i wanted that upgraded short block what gains can i expect if i did not have a turbo installed?

[Jet Black]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Dominicano)</div><div class='quotemain'>Wow no one replied to this post Â*:shock: Â*

If i wanted that upgraded short block what gains can i expect if i did not have a turbo installed?</div>

Probably a great idle and thats about it. The built block is to sustain the massive amount of power that either a SDS or turbo will unleash on the motor.

PS To add some point of referance on how much power this block can take, a stock 3000GT VR4 block can safetly go up to 6-700 hp. Now thats with semi-built internals (i.e. the stock 8:1 pistons metallurgy is as shitty as the stock 10:1). So the sky is the limit with built everything...

[DOHCstunr]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Dominicano)</div><div class='quotemain'>Wow no one replied to this post Â*:shock: Â*

If i wanted that upgraded short block what gains can i expect if i did not have a turbo installed?</div>
without boost?
simple answer you would loose power from the lower compression ratio. you would hate it unless you went with higher compression pistons for n/a

[Dominicano]

so its a good upgrade when you go all the way but not good is you want to do it by steps. You know buy the short block, install it, then save up for turbo then install it. give us v6 guys good option to having a reliable engine.

[DOHCstunr]

so its a good upgrade when you go all the way but not good is you want to do it by steps. You know buy the short block, install it, then save up for turbo then install it. give us v6 guys good option to having a reliable engine.
just do it the other way around.

turbo, then buy and build up a shortblock.

my 2.0l 4g63t is 7.8:1 compression. a far cry from the 10.5:1 of the GS 2.4 dohc

i've actually driven it with just an intake,
no turbo cause i actually ripped a giant hole in one of my old intercooler couplings during 3rd gear pull on a road trip. i had to pull over and make an intake so i could keep driving without bogging

it felt about the same before the normal turbo spool up point. but after that it wouldn't pull at all. likek literally after 3k rpms, no matter how much throttle or what rpm it seemed to pull the same. and very sluggish. if i was driving lik that in city traffic it would have been horrible.

[Jet Black]

so its a good upgrade when you go all the way but not good is you want to do it by steps. You know buy the short block, install it, then save up for turbo then install it. give us v6 guys good option to having a reliable engine.

Just to add, our block is actually relativly strong. With good tuning, and realistic power goals, I'm sure this engine can last well into 100k miles [under boost] without any problems.

The racing block on the other hand, is more suited toward addressing the "realistic power goals" portion of the previous statement, rather than reliability (which I'm sure it will have PLENTY of). Honestly, its hard to easily quantify how strong this block is. It may not be as good as the Supra's 2JZ, but its DAMN near close as hell.

With the amount of power I envision this block can handle, I wonder what kind of headwork will be neccicary to make use of it. As it is, the 3000GT VR4 guys are beggingin to swap out cams around the 700hp limit (I would imagine that their cams are far more agressive than ours ~ straight from the factory). I wonder what point our SOHC cams will need to be swapped out for some by RPW. Or for that matter, how much power can we make before we see the limitations of SOHC*.

*Camshafts are an area of the motor that is entirely alien to me. So I'm not sure if SOHC is a major limiting factor in power making, compared to DOHC.

...could be worse. We could be stuck with 10:1 CR and 12 valves.
https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif

[Tearstone]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCSTUNR)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Dominicano)</div><div class='quotemain'>Wow no one replied to this post Â*:shock: Â*

If i wanted that upgraded short block what gains can i expect if i did not have a turbo installed?</div>
without boost?
simple answer you would loose power from the lower compression ratio. you would hate it unless you went with higher compression pistons for n/a</div>

The stock compression ratio (despite the marketing materials) is 8.9:1, these aftermarket race blocks we provide come with 8.8:1 so there would be neglible horsepower loss. The balancing of the cranks and rods may improve efficiency enough not to see any horsepower loss alone by itself.

[Tearstone]

Just building the bottom end of an engine (unless your stroking it) gives/takes negligible horsepower differences depending on what you are doing. When you build a bottom end, you are effectively increasing the potential amount of horsepower you can make with the engine.

Right now, with the stock V6 bottom end you can make roughly in the neighborhood of 300whp before the ring lands start breaking apart under the heat and stress of forced induction. Maybe with a few tricks you can squeeze out a bit more (meth injection etc). If you keep your stock head configuration, with this block you can effectively max out the capability of the heads before the bottom end. Other companies have managed to get over 400whp with stock heads by building up the bottom ends.

We expect that these bottom ends (if the stock rods are used) to go up to about 450whp~500whp safely. If you have requirements that go over that then we have an option to add Crower rods to the engine for an unknown capability. (Personally, I would expect that you could push 700whp no problems with a fully built bottom end).

Passing more air in and out of the comustion chamber is how you make more horsepower.

1. Port and Polish: Creating a bigger and smoother way for air to get into the combustion chamber
2. Multi angle valve jobs: opening up the valve paths
3. Cams: increasing the duration and lift of the valves for both intake and exhaust
4. Extractors: Exhaust paths that effectively open up enough room for the gases to be pushed through the piping with turbulence reduction and negative exhaust pulses.
5. Forced Induction: Forcing air through the system into the combusion chamber

Those are just some basic general points. Because there is stroking, changing redline etc, but that's a little unusual unless you have a 4cylinder engine.

I have pricing for 4G64 builds as well, but it's not a popular item because the 4G64 can output close to 310whp on it's stock end from the get go which effectively maxes out the heads on that engine as well.