1995 Galant...spark and no start problem

[chopshop]

Hello
I'm new to this forum and to mitsu ownership. I just picked up a 1995 Galant 2.4L SOHC because it had a no start problem.
I guess I will go through what I know works...

I get fuel to the injectors
The coil tests fine
There are no visible problems with the computer
The timing belt is in good shape and lined up with the marks perfectly
Cap, Rotor, wires, Plugs are new cause I would have done them anyway

I only seem to get spark to one or two cylinders and it's really not good spark at that. With the cap off, the coil does arc and it seems strong. I got a junkyard distributor and tried that (no guarantees it does work but it has the same issue).

So, with all that said, I also have a cut ground wire near the distributor. It is the one that bolts on right to the dist. under what looks like a condenser. I have ripped apart my harness looking for the wire this belongs to and can't find a home.

So,
Can this wire be causing my problem?
Is there anything else I can check?

Let me thank you in advance for any help you can provide.
~Jim in PA~

[seth98esT]

More then likely. With the cap off spark may seem strong because there is no load. Find out where the ground goes to. Do you have a service manual? Ill try to look it up for you.

[chopshop]

I have a haynes manual, but thats not helping me with this...oh how I wish I still had access to alldata! If you could help me with a diagram I would greatly appreciate it.

[98ACR]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(chopshop)</div><div class='quotemain'>
The coil tests fine</div>
The Galant has no coil...I'm guessing you mean the rotor button?


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>So, with all that said, I also have a cut ground wire near the distributor. Â*It is the one that bolts on right to the dist. under what looks like a condenser. Â*I have ripped apart my harness looking for the wire this belongs to and can't find a home. Â*</div>
This is the pickup for the tach. THe only thing it affects is the tach signal wire. Without it the only difference is that the tach won't work.


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Can this wire be causing my problem?
Is there anything else I can check?</div>

I think you can rule out the wire. Have you checked the spark at the plugs individually? Strong spark on all four cylinders? If so, pull off the PCV hose and spray in carb cleaner while someone turns over the engine. That should start it if you have fire, or it should at least TRY to start. If the carb cleaner gets blown back out of the hole, have someone check the inside of the cylinders with a boroscope. You may have bent valves. (what happened to mine when the T-belt tensioner failed) Try that and come back...I'll be able to go from there.

[Proto]

the GS has a coilpack https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif

[chopshop]

The Galant has no coil...I'm guessing you mean the rotor button?

Yes, the rotor button.

Strong spark on all four cylinders?
No. Strong Spark on the #1 cylinder, #2 gets some spark.

If so, pull off the PCV hose and spray in carb cleaner while someone turns over the engine.
I have done this...it doesn't make much difference...it tries to start but only like it has spark on one or two cylinders (which it only does). I know it's getting fuel to the injectors...I also know the fuel is clean because i cleaned the tank and pumped fresh fuel to everything.

I also have the timing belt cover off...everything lines up perfectly for tdc...and it has good tension. I just don't understand how i can have good spark at only one cylinder...I also checked the computer for "leaking capacitors" and everything looks fine...nothing appears to have a problem.

At least i can rule out that wire...I know this is going to end up being some weird electrical problem.

I appreciate the help!

[Blue Ice]

I was having some timing issues with my car a couple of weeks ago. I went to an old Mitsu doctor about my problem. One of the things he explained to me is that our cars have a problem with the distibutor. I just ended up replacing the caps, and wires and it's all good now.

I'm trying to remember how he explained it, maybe someone can clear it up. But what he said is that something inside the distibutor will go bad, and the only way to solve it is to replace the whole distributor. I want to say it's an internal spring or coil, but it's something to do with being able to give a good electrical flow.

I have a Sohc and distributor, and he was looking under my hood when he was telling about the problem. Good Luck


Also, you haven't mentioned if you checked the starter...

[manybrews]

the coils on the 94 and 95 distributors had a tendency to crack inside the distributor. they would arc to ground, preventing proper (or any) running.

IF thats your problem, you'll need an entire distributor assembly, as the coil isnt sold seperately.
make 100 percent sure its diagnosed correctly before installing one, 'cause its not cheap.

[chopshop]

manybrews; i was wondering what the problem was with the distributors, thanks for clarifying that.
thanks both of you for the input.


Also, you haven't mentioned if you checked the starter...
engine turns over fine, starter works fine.

Ok, so...i have replaced the distributor...with one from a wrecked galant out of a junkyard...the coil inside the distributor ohms out in accordance to the manual, but my guess is that a crack isn't gonna cause it not to. My understanding is that the crank and cam sensors are also inside the distributor...i know these are all things that could cause the car not to fire on all cyls. I'm just trying to be absolutely sure before i buy a distributor that it is the problem because it isn't cheap, as manybrews stated. Is there any way to test these parts on the distributor, off the car?
If i can't get anywhere testing this, I may grab the wiring harness off of the same car i got the distributor from...it's not gonna be expensive. Any other ideas?

[chopshop]

the GS has a coilpack
BTW Proto, I envy your GS with a coilpack

[manybrews]

Ok, so...i have replaced the distributor...with one from a wrecked galant out of a junkyard...the coil inside the distributor ohms out in accordance to the manual, but my guess is that a crack isn't gonna cause it not to. My understanding is that the crank and cam sensors are also inside the distributor...i know these are all things that could cause the car not to fire on all cyls. I'm just trying to be absolutely sure before i buy a distributor that it is the problem because it isn't cheap, as manybrews stated. Is there any way to test these parts on the distributor, off the car?
If i can't get anywhere testing this, I may grab the wiring harness off of the same car i got the distributor from...it's not gonna be expensive. Any other ideas?
you need an oscilliscope to properly check the cam and crank sensors inside the distributor.