2.4L timing belt change..

[theblackpearl]

after my recent experiences with changing the timing belt on my g and all the shit i had to go through to get it timed correctly and everything i thought i would put a tutorial together..so here it goes..



these arent pics of my car i took them from blkkamikazegs on club 3g so thank him for the pics if need be.
and remember i am in no way responsible for you messing anything up while performing this task.


first thing is to jack up the car and support it with jack stands. once that is done remove the passenger side front tire and splash guard.the splash guard will have three bolts and i think three plastic clip things you need to remove to get it off
http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01793.JPG
tire removed and splash guard that needs to be removed
next take the jack and a small block of wood and place it under the oil pan on the engine. dont jack it up just yet just support it for when you remove the motor mount. the mount and bolts needing to be removed pictured below..also you need to slide the coolant resovoir out in order to gain access to one of the bolts, pull it up towards you and it will come right out.
http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01785.JPG

http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01789.JPG
pictured is the mount removed

next you need to remove the acc. belts.
here is the A/C - P/S belt there is a bolt tensioner that you need to loosen up in order to get the belt enough slack to be removed. there is a locking bolt on the side that you will need to loosen up before you can loosen the tensioner.
http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01791.JPG
same procedure goes for the altenator/water pump belt. loosen the lockin bolt then the tensioner. there is also a bolt on the back side of the altenator you will need to loosen in order to get the belt off.
http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01790.JPG

here is the engine without the acc. belts and the motor mount...
http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01794.JPG

next remove the cam gear cover. there should be about four bolts holding it in place..remove those and it will slide right off..

http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01798.JPG
pic of the cover removed

now for the lower timing belt cover. you need to remove the crank pulley pictured below

http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01795.JPG

in order to get the crank shaft bolt out since i dont have air tools i took a pretty burly ratchet and socket wedged the ratchet against the frame of the car, unpluged the coil packs, and cranked the engine for just a second, and it broke loose. the crank rotates clockwise so figure out which way you need to position the ratchet in order to get the bolt loose.

http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01799.JPG
pic of the crankshaft bolt removed

next remove the four bolts holding the pulley to the crank. once pulley is removed it should look like this..
http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01800.JPG

now next is to remove the lower timing cover. in order to get this out i had to remove the water pump pulley. there are four small 10mm bolts holding it on..its kind of tricky to get the bolts off have a friend help you keep the pulley from spinning..also youll have to raise the engine slightly in order to remove the pulley from the shaft.

pic of the pulley removed..
http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01801.JPG

there should be about 5 bolts holding the lower timing cover on. remove those and slide it out from under the car.

this is the cover removed..in order to get the belt off your going to have to loosen a blue pulley which is just out of view in this pic, its up higher on the block. once that is loosend there should be enough slack in the belt to remove it. and once you have the belt off, you need to remove the sprocket, it slides off with a little effort. dont mind the circled bolts in this pic you wont need to remove those till after you get the sprocket off.
http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01803.JPG

then comes the crank position sensor. two bolts hold it in place remove those and the sensor plate.
pictured is the timing belt off, sprocket removed and the sensor plate that needs to be removed. youll need to remove the hydraulic tensioner circled in order to get the plate out and gain access to the balance shaft belt. there are 2 12mm bolts holdin it in place.

http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01804.JPG

this is the balance shaft belt..it too has the same blue tensioner as the timing belt did. all you need to do in ordr to remove the belt is loosen this tensioner and the belt should slide right off..you can either remove the tensioner completely or just loosen it..either way.
http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01806.JPG

here is a picture of everything removed..
http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01809.JPG

okay now here comes the fun part. gettin everything set to the correct timing specs. okay we will start with the cam gear and work our way down...

1. the cam gear will have a notch on the side of it and possibly it will have a colored mark on it.(mine did) there will also be a notch in the valve cover right above the cam gear. you need to get the notch on the gear to line up with the notch on the valve cover. rotate the cam clockwise if you need to in order to get it lined up.

2. the crankshaft- if you look on the crank position sensor plate there will be a notch taken out of it in one spot. slide this and the sprocket back onto the shaft and rotate it clockwise until you can line it up to the TDC markings that you will find on the lower timing belt cover. you can see them in one of the pics above(i dont know why they are on the outside cover its retarded)

3. on the balance shaft(upper left corner of balance belt) you will see an arrow on the shaft sprocket. and to the left on the block there will be a notch. you need that arrow to line up with the notch..

4.on the oil shaft(far right) there will also be an arrow on the sprocket, and you will see another arrow allong the perimiter of that sprocket that you need to line that up with.

okay now that you have your timing marks set you can put the belts back on, start with the balance belt.

in order to tension the balance belt youll need to rotate the blue pulley once the belt is on( i used a screwdriver to get enough leverage on the pulley to tension the belt. be careful though while youre tensioning the belt the timing settins have a tendency to move off of their marks. make sure they stay marked up.

now there are a few things you need to do before puttin the new timing belt on. first....

the hydraulic tensioner that you removed needs to be set again. to do this you need to put it in a vice or clamp and compress the shaft down until you can stick a small nail or pin of some kind through the holes and hold the shaft down..once youve done this you can bolt it back up onto the block.

secondly get the timing belt on and make sure ALL of your timing settings are still to spec, if they have moved mess with the belt until you can get them lined up again.

now to properly tension the belt. the blue tensioner for the timing belt will have two holes in it. i used an allen wrench to stick through one of these holes and had a friend pull up on it from above until the tension was properly set and then i tightened the bolt back down to hold the pulley in place, be sure the pulley doesnt rotate while your tightening it.

now to check to see if your tension is correct youll need to crank the engine over a few times and go back to the pin you set in the hydraulic tensioner, if you can remove and replace the pin with ease your tension is correct. if you cant remove the pin and replace it without a lot of effort you need to re tension the blue pulley until you can remove and replace that pin into the hydraulic tensioner.

now go ahead and start putting the covers and everything back on and you should be done..
if i have missed anything someone please feel free to add.. its late and im not sure if i covered everything or not.. let me know what you guys think...

[IceDouTGaLanT]

great post man,maybe we can make this an sticky in the DIY section??

[theblackpearl]

yeah i was hoping for that...

[theblackpearl]

no stickyness? lol

[pinoyesv6]

few things.

a. you should mention who on club 3g you stole the pics from.

b. you could have stickied this yourself im pretty sure

and c. you ever fix your car? i'd be kinda hesitant to follow a tutorial written by a guy who tried it on their car and got it wrong.

[theblackpearl]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(pinoyesv6)</div><div class='quotemain'>few things. Â*

a. you should mention who on club 3g you stole the pics from.

b. you could have stickied this yourself im pretty sure

and c. you ever fix your car? i'd be kinda hesitant to follow a tutorial written by a guy who tried it on their car and got it wrong.</div>

okay ill fix the post and mention who i got the pics from..

b. i dont know if i can sticky this myself?

c. yes lol i fixed my car and it is running fine now.. thats why i even made this tutorial..if my car was still fucked up i wouldnt have done this acting like i knew what i was talkin about or something...so yeah

[pinoyesv6]

im pretty sure you could sticky this yourself. i remember i used to unsticky posts members made all the time.

[DryBear]

Dustin - edit the very first post of this thread, and in the Options area, there should be the option for "Sticky"

[theblackpearl]

do you want to move it to tutorials?

[pinoyesv6]

sure.

[darylvia]

<span style='font-size:25pt;line-height:100%'>So as it is now... is it right or wrong????????????????</span>

[seth98esT]

You guys have to removed big crank bolt to remove harmonic dampener or whatever? 7gs dont, and I dont think you do either, just unbolt the 4bolts on it and slide it off. If not, thats such a PITA haha!

But, first thing you SHOULD do when you have the timing cover off is to spin the crank with a open end wrench on the big crank bolt untill EVERYTHING lines up correctly(ALL OF THE TIMING MARKS). THEN remove the crank sensor and auto tensioner and pull the belt. From there, its just a matter of replacing the pulleys and belts, making sure the front BS sprocket is in-line, as well as with the rear oil pump sprocket, but those two spin freely.

If you take the timing belt off without making sure the timing marks are all lined up, you are making it 100 times harder then it has to be.

[manybrews]

I may have missed it, but one of the most important parts of this replacedment is correct timing of the oil pump/balance shaft. you DO NOT just line up the mark, as the balance shaft is on a 2 to 1 reduction. If the shaft is 360 degrees off (as it often is when this is done), the balance shaft AMPLIFIES vibration.
there is a hole in the side of the block with plug you must remove to determine if the shaft is at the bottom of its bore or not.

[FRCFD6]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(seth98esT)</div><div class='quotemain'>You guys have to removed big crank bolt to remove harmonic dampener or whatever? Â*7gs dont, and I dont think you do either, just unbolt the 4bolts on it and slide it off. Â*If not, thats such a PITA haha!

But, first thing you SHOULD do when you have the timing cover off is to spin the crank with a open end wrench on the big crank bolt untill EVERYTHING lines up correctly(ALL OF THE TIMING MARKS). Â*THEN remove the crank sensor and auto tensioner and pull the belt. Â*From there, its just a matter of replacing the pulleys and belts, making sure the front BS sprocket is in-line, as well as with the rear oil pump sprocket, but those two spin freely. Â*

If you take the timing belt off without making sure the timing marks are all lined up, you are making it 100 times harder then it has to be.</div>


http://forums.probetalk.com/images/smilies/icon_withstupid.gif

[SLS2000]

Thanks for this post. It has made some things clearer for me....

I 'll save up the money and take it to the dealer for this maintenance/repair.

:thumbsup:

[chbuzz]

Some things I would suggest for someone who is going to do there own first T-belt job.
1. Possible extra vehicle so your not in a big rush.
2. Service/Haynes manual.
3. Factory parts.
4. Decent set of metric tools; including a 3/8(ft/lbs) and 1/4 (ft/In) torque wrenchs and a 3/8 breaker bar.
5. Miller MD998767 timing tensioner tool.
The original post needs corrected to reflect that the Oil pump sprocket needs to be in phase as Manybrews posted. You can also take the oil pump sprocket and turn the arrow straight up and watch the way it reacts; if it falls toward the timing mark its in phase, if it falls toward the other side(3 O'clock position) it needs rotated around another revolution.
It's not that hard to do this just follow the steps in the manuals and DON'T rush.
You'll feel good about working on your own car, and learning what makes it tick while saving $$$!

[Satan]

The 2nd belt snapped and then the timing belt got fubar, taking both of the timing covers out... At about 30MPH. I replaced them with Gates brand at 130K miles. I'm at 177K miles now. Dunno what happened or if somethin' else was in there, causing the belts to get Fed up. I got these Duralast ones from Autozone ('cause they had 'em in stock).

Towing (2miles from home) = $77 (plus $20 tip, for backin' the G ride into the garage for me).
Timing belt = $30
2nd Belt = $20
Upper timing cover $72
Lower timing cover = $56

...About $260 and hopefully no bent valves, me doing the work, etc. Coulda been ALOT more $$ and time.

Don't take chances with yours!!!



And about 5 hours of work... I was being anal, following the directions in the factory service manual and within this thread. If ya wanna speed along, you can probably do it in about 3.5 hours.

Follow the factory manual and you will see that there are timing marks EVERYWHERE you need them, before putting the covers one.

Car drives like a champ again. I seem to have REALLY lucked out with no bent valves or other known/seen damage.

http://www.geocities.com/g099521/carnage.jpg

[seth98esT]

I dont see how you cant bend valves with a broken belt. Theres almost no way you didnt bend any valves. I bent all 16 when my belt slipped at idle :/

[Satan]

^^exactly. I was 95% sure that the whole motor was jacked. Figured I'd throw the belt on and see, since I am not necessarily where I'd like to be, in order to get a replacement vehicle.

Just got back from driving ~50 miles... No backfiring, smooth idle, etc. I can't believe it... technically/realistically, I should still be in the middle of pulling the head off and counting how many valves (or more) need replacing.

This is NOT what normally takes place, with an interference engine. I even told the wife that I was gonna go to church after this.

Again, fair warning to others... look at the cost I dealt with. I did it myself before and saved some $$, but things should have been significantly worse. At the very least, take that top cover off and take a look at the belt. Hopefully you spot it falling apart before it does what mine did.

If you know it needs changing, just knock it out.

[4g63lover]

I dont see how you cant bend valves with a broken belt. Theres almost no way you didnt bend any valves. I bent all 16 when my belt slipped at idle :/
yup. One of my valves took a chunk out of the piston on my old motor when the belt snapped at 60.

[Satan]

Guess what...?

After about 150 miles... I can hear a slight tapping in the head. Seems to still be running fine, but that tap wasn't there before. I'll be looking to pull the head off soon...dang it.

[eksz]

Satan,
Been wondering; Did you ever pull the head to see what if anything was was wrong? I would have assumed the tapping was just the normal 4g64 2.4L Mitz hydralic valve noise an older engine makes.
I've blow 3 timing belts on my 94 galant ES (car has 240K miles) without any appearent engine damage. My car likes to eat them right at 60K and I tend to put things off too long; blew one doing 80mpg and another just idling in the driveway. As long as she is running I would not mess with it. My car is still going strong (still getting 26-30 mpg city and highway).

[djflex167]

great post!! now we need to get the one for the V6!

[galantebeige]

Well, I am planning to tackle this job. I have read this DIY, the Haynes Manual and the 8G service manual.

I have tried to reconcile all the information, but I am still confused about a few things. (By the way the Haynes manual does have some few mistakes here and there, I believe, correct me if I'm wrong, mostly on the illustration references and naming.)

Question 1)
8G manual 11A-33:
Do not use a spanner or the similar tool to turn special tool
MD998738. Otherwise, the auto-tensioner set pin may be
broken. Turn special tool MD998738 by hand only.
1. Remove the rubber plug from the rear of the timing belt
cover assembly. Then screw in special tool MD998738 by
hand until the tensioner arm is touching the auto-tensioner
pushrod.

Do I really need this tool MD998738 ? (looks like a thin bar)

Is this needed with/along tool MD998767 ? (looks like a square thing with two prongs). I can see that this tool (MD998767) is necessary for the correction tension adjustment. It has been said so before in this thread.

Question 2)
Haynes 2A-8

Caution 2. do not try to turn the crankshaft with a camshaft sprocket bolt......

What does this warning mean?

Does the camshaft sprocket bolt must be removed before attempting to move the crankshaft (and along with it the camshaft sprocket?)

Or does it mean that I must not try to attach the camshaft bolt into the crankshaft (somehow) and try to move it??

Question 3)
I am a little bit hesitant to loosen the crankshaft bolt as described here in this thread (run the engine with a wrench against the frame of the car...). Is this just safe for the engine? Is there another way to do this? I suppose a big breaker bar, the correct socket and some WD40? Using this method, is the crankshaft going to stay put while I add force counterclockwise? We know that we must not move the crankshaft counterclockwise.

So, how much force (ft-lb) to loosen the bolt?
what size (mm) is this crankshaft bolt?

I'm sorry If they are stupid questions, I am not an expert, but really trying to learn seriously all I can.
:-)

Thank you in advance for your always expert advice.

[galantebeige]

I have an answer for my own question #1: for the 8G only tool MD998767 is needed. And some people have done without it. Refer to thread called something like "water pump nightmare".

[Johnathansgalant]

question 2:
i dont understand that warning but you should rotate the crankshaft bolt with a wrench or whatever till everthing is lined tdc and all marks are good before u yank off the crankshaft bolt and remove the tensioner and belt. Rotate clockwise or the same direction as the engine rotates when moving the crankshaft bolt.

question 3:
u can do it the way described or use a heavy duty impact wrench to remove it also. Cant do it with a breaker bar you will rotate it or ur not strong enough. If ur not doing the balance shaft belt you dont need to remove the crankshaft sprocket... Since ur in there i assume u will change the belt tho..






Well, I am planning to tackle this job. I have read this DIY, the Haynes Manual and the 8G service manual.

I have tried to reconcile all the information, but I am still confused about a few things. (By the way the Haynes manual does have some few mistakes here and there, I believe, correct me if I'm wrong, mostly on the illustration references and naming.)

Question 1)
8G manual 11A-33:
Do not use a spanner or the similar tool to turn special tool
MD998738. Otherwise, the auto-tensioner set pin may be
broken. Turn special tool MD998738 by hand only.
1. Remove the rubber plug from the rear of the timing belt
cover assembly. Then screw in special tool MD998738 by
hand until the tensioner arm is touching the auto-tensioner
pushrod.

Do I really need this tool MD998738 ? (looks like a thin bar)

Is this needed with/along tool MD998767 ? (looks like a square thing with two prongs). I can see that this tool (MD998767) is necessary for the correction tension adjustment. It has been said so before in this thread.

Question 2)
Haynes 2A-8

Caution 2. do not try to turn the crankshaft with a camshaft sprocket bolt......

What does this warning mean?

Does the camshaft sprocket bolt must be removed before attempting to move the crankshaft (and along with it the camshaft sprocket?)

Or does it mean that I must not try to attach the camshaft bolt into the crankshaft (somehow) and try to move it??

Question 3)
I am a little bit hesitant to loosen the crankshaft bolt as described here in this thread (run the engine with a wrench against the frame of the car...). Is this just safe for the engine? Is there another way to do this? I suppose a big breaker bar, the correct socket and some WD40? Using this method, is the crankshaft going to stay put while I add force counterclockwise? We know that we must not move the crankshaft counterclockwise.

So, how much force (ft-lb) to loosen the bolt?
what size (mm) is this crankshaft bolt?

I'm sorry If they are stupid questions, I am not an expert, but really trying to learn seriously all I can.
:-)

Thank you in advance for your always expert advice.

[brandonbigdog]

anyone know how to remove the power sterring tensioner completely in this step. My bearing is shot and i cant figure out how to remove it.
http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01791.JPG

[JoeRad]

i am about to try this myself and was wondering if this will be pretty much the same for a 2L SOCH 4g63, if anyone has any advice id appeciate it alot,

[DAvidAD]

where are the pics from the original post?

[cscotty]

where are the pics from the original post?

Yeah, I agree. I'm looking to change my timing belt next week and some pics would be very helpful.

Thanks,
Scott

[nickmick]

+1 on pics. altho it is a 5 year old post....

doing it this weekend, ug...

[j tom]

please,Bring back the PIC'S !!!

[Galantman03]

I would go get the Hayes Manual, alot more information, better discription and it lists all the torque values

[mr0bond006]

Hi folks. Does anyone have detailed instructions on changing timing belt on a 2002 2.4l?

[Galantman03]

your best bet is to get a haynes manual, as it lists all the torque values and cautions and what not... i did the belt change with the haynes, and it was pretty informative and easy, just time consuming... lol

[stecca]

new to the forum, so be kind....working on a 2001 galant es...2.4 sohc

i've been working with a haynes manual as well as this tutorial and in the process of putting the timing belt back on i've run into an issue.

my haynes manual tells me to start putting the timing belt on at the crankshaft...problem is is that the timing sprocket is connected to the crankshaft damper pulley. the whole assembly goes on after the lower cover goes on...which happens after the tension is set (please stop me if i've missed something here). This seems off to me, to set the tension before the belt is around all the proper parts.

dumb question, but is the crankshaft damper pully supposed to include a location for the timing belt?

[NoltePerformance]

I'm doing a timing belt replacement on a 2003 Galant ES 2.4L SOHC engine and I've run into a problem.

When putting the belt on, the haynes manual says to put it onto the crank pulley first, then the oil pump, then the guide pulley, then the camshaft, then the tensioner.

Like this:

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t57/sly1685/1113001631a.jpg


My problem is the tensioner pulley is actually TOUCHING the guide pulley, or what I think is the guide pulley, and the belt isn't long enough to go around both the guide pulley and the tensioner. Also the "guide pulley" (in quotes because I'm not sure that the pulley I'm looking at is the guide pulley) is sticking out about an inch from where the tensioner pulley is.

Like this:

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t57/sly1685/1113001629-1.jpg

So does the belt actually go in between these pulleys? Is the pulley on the right even the guide pulley, and if not, where the heck is it? Those are the only two pulleys that look like the timing belt should touch, although if I'm being honest it looks like the timing belt SHOULD NOT touch the pulley on the right, as its not long enough to fit around the camshaft pulley when it does.

[NoltePerformance]

So I solved the mystery of the strange pulley placement. I should have prefaced my previous post by saying I didn't take the timing belt off, another "mechanic" did, then quit when the job got too tough for him.

I found this picture online:

http://www.denlorstools.com/shop/wpimages/2.4_Mitsubishi_Timing_Belt_3.jpg

Anyone see anything wrong with MY picture? Yes, that dumba$$ bolted the guide pulley to the bolt that holds the tensioner pulley on!! I found the correct bolt hole, bolted it on, and got the timing belt on perfectly...180 degrees off. Tried starting it and smoke started puffing out of the intake snorkel, lol.

Oops.

Good news is that everything seems good, no noise coming from the pistons or valves, so hopefully no head damage! I'll update again when I finish the job.:icon_mrgreen:

[99galantES]

http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01809.JPG

ok did that gear ever get stuck on any of you guys next to the 2 mine rotates but gets stuck then rotates again and chews up the teeth on my belt

[NoltePerformance]

I'm no expert on Galant's (as shown by my first two posts lol) but that sounds like a bad bearing to me...

[UrbanDiplomat]

after my recent experiences with changing the timing belt on my g and all the shit i had to go through to get it timed correctly and everything i thought i would put a tutorial together..so here it goes..



these arent pics of my car i took them from blkkamikazegs on club 3g so thank him for the pics if need be.
and remember i am in no way responsible for you messing anything up while performing this task.


first thing is to jack up the car and support it with jack stands. once that is done remove the passenger side front tire and splash guard.the splash guard will have three bolts and i think three plastic clip things you need to remove to get it off
http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01793.JPG
tire removed and splash guard that needs to be removed
next take the jack and a small block of wood and place it under the oil pan on the engine. dont jack it up just yet just support it for when you remove the motor mount. the mount and bolts needing to be removed pictured below..also you need to slide the coolant resovoir out in order to gain access to one of the bolts, pull it up towards you and it will come right out.
http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01785.JPG

http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01789.JPG
pictured is the mount removed

next you need to remove the acc. belts.
here is the A/C - P/S belt there is a bolt tensioner that you need to loosen up in order to get the belt enough slack to be removed. there is a locking bolt on the side that you will need to loosen up before you can loosen the tensioner.
http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01791.JPG
same procedure goes for the altenator/water pump belt. loosen the lockin bolt then the tensioner. there is also a bolt on the back side of the altenator you will need to loosen in order to get the belt off.
http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01790.JPG

here is the engine without the acc. belts and the motor mount...
http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01794.JPG

next remove the cam gear cover. there should be about four bolts holding it in place..remove those and it will slide right off..

http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01798.JPG
pic of the cover removed

now for the lower timing belt cover. you need to remove the crank pulley pictured below

http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01795.JPG

in order to get the crank shaft bolt out since i dont have air tools i took a pretty burly ratchet and socket wedged the ratchet against the frame of the car, unpluged the coil packs, and cranked the engine for just a second, and it broke loose. the crank rotates clockwise so figure out which way you need to position the ratchet in order to get the bolt loose.

http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01799.JPG
pic of the crankshaft bolt removed

next remove the four bolts holding the pulley to the crank. once pulley is removed it should look like this..
http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01800.JPG

now next is to remove the lower timing cover. in order to get this out i had to remove the water pump pulley. there are four small 10mm bolts holding it on..its kind of tricky to get the bolts off have a friend help you keep the pulley from spinning..also youll have to raise the engine slightly in order to remove the pulley from the shaft.

pic of the pulley removed..
http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01801.JPG

there should be about 5 bolts holding the lower timing cover on. remove those and slide it out from under the car.

this is the cover removed..in order to get the belt off your going to have to loosen a blue pulley which is just out of view in this pic, its up higher on the block. once that is loosend there should be enough slack in the belt to remove it. and once you have the belt off, you need to remove the sprocket, it slides off with a little effort. dont mind the circled bolts in this pic you wont need to remove those till after you get the sprocket off.
http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01803.JPG

then comes the crank position sensor. two bolts hold it in place remove those and the sensor plate.
pictured is the timing belt off, sprocket removed and the sensor plate that needs to be removed. youll need to remove the hydraulic tensioner circled in order to get the plate out and gain access to the balance shaft belt. there are 2 12mm bolts holdin it in place.

http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01804.JPG

this is the balance shaft belt..it too has the same blue tensioner as the timing belt did. all you need to do in ordr to remove the belt is loosen this tensioner and the belt should slide right off..you can either remove the tensioner completely or just loosen it..either way.
http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01806.JPG

here is a picture of everything removed..
http://opusx.dyndns.org/garage/24timingbelt/DSC01809.JPG

okay now here comes the fun part. gettin everything set to the correct timing specs. okay we will start with the cam gear and work our way down...

1. the cam gear will have a notch on the side of it and possibly it will have a colored mark on it.(mine did) there will also be a notch in the valve cover right above the cam gear. you need to get the notch on the gear to line up with the notch on the valve cover. rotate the cam clockwise if you need to in order to get it lined up.

2. the crankshaft- if you look on the crank position sensor plate there will be a notch taken out of it in one spot. slide this and the sprocket back onto the shaft and rotate it clockwise until you can line it up to the TDC markings that you will find on the lower timing belt cover. you can see them in one of the pics above(i dont know why they are on the outside cover its retarded)

3. on the balance shaft(upper left corner of balance belt) you will see an arrow on the shaft sprocket. and to the left on the block there will be a notch. you need that arrow to line up with the notch..

4.on the oil shaft(far right) there will also be an arrow on the sprocket, and you will see another arrow allong the perimiter of that sprocket that you need to line that up with.

okay now that you have your timing marks set you can put the belts back on, start with the balance belt.

in order to tension the balance belt youll need to rotate the blue pulley once the belt is on( i used a screwdriver to get enough leverage on the pulley to tension the belt. be careful though while youre tensioning the belt the timing settins have a tendency to move off of their marks. make sure they stay marked up.

now there are a few things you need to do before puttin the new timing belt on. first....

the hydraulic tensioner that you removed needs to be set again. to do this you need to put it in a vice or clamp and compress the shaft down until you can stick a small nail or pin of some kind through the holes and hold the shaft down..once youve done this you can bolt it back up onto the block.

secondly get the timing belt on and make sure ALL of your timing settings are still to spec, if they have moved mess with the belt until you can get them lined up again.

now to properly tension the belt. the blue tensioner for the timing belt will have two holes in it. i used an allen wrench to stick through one of these holes and had a friend pull up on it from above until the tension was properly set and then i tightened the bolt back down to hold the pulley in place, be sure the pulley doesnt rotate while your tightening it.

now to check to see if your tension is correct youll need to crank the engine over a few times and go back to the pin you set in the hydraulic tensioner, if you can remove and replace the pin with ease your tension is correct. if you cant remove the pin and replace it without a lot of effort you need to re tension the blue pulley until you can remove and replace that pin into the hydraulic tensioner.

now go ahead and start putting the covers and everything back on and you should be done..
if i have missed anything someone please feel free to add.. its late and im not sure if i covered everything or not.. let me know what you guys think...

I wanted to show some love to "theblackpearl". Not sure if this person is still on the forums, but I put my timing belt on today and this write up helped a bunch. I'll summarize what I learned along the way tomorrow; I'm exhausted...had a long day. Got the 8G running today though!!!

[nigblock70]

just changed my timing belt using the methods from this post, everything runs as it should for now! thanks -matt

[qnz]

Im about to hit 65,000 miles and will need to do my T-belt. Thanks Dustin for this tutorial, where ever you are now :)

[nigblock70]

well after several test drives, i think i might have the timing belt or balance belt on too tight....... it feels like it is running ok, but not like it used to it feels like you have to give it more throttle to get it to speed up now..... anyone know what I mean? I am going to rip it apart tomorrow and re check it

[c4XVTxp]

Yes, very helpful. Thank you, theblackpearl!

[tm7323]

Can someone pm me the pics from the original post if you have it. - Thanks

[GirchyGirchy]

Bumpy again - anyone have the pictures?

[E_Emerson88]

damn, i need to do this tomorrow morning but no pictures =(

[spdracr]

What pics do u need exactly??

[E_Emerson88]

any you can get me. i will be doing this throughout the week, hopefully have it done by saturday.

[spdracr]

Unfortunately I can't get pics but I can help u with any questions u have. I have removed and installed my timing belt numerous times and done a couple other cars. I'm good with it.

[E_Emerson88]

nvm. taking it to a shop. no time to fiddle with it since it wouldve been my first time.

[spdracr]

Sorry couldn't help with pics :(

[E_Emerson88]

its okay, thank you though!

[bgood12]

Yea I know what u mesan about having a belt on too tight etc. I had mine done for a bit, then my car just stopped working turned out belt was timed correctly but blance shaft belt was too tight and broke and threw timing off by one tooth I was fortunate to still have an engine.

[byrnie2]

Are the pictures accompanying the timing belt change by the Black Pearl still
available? I can't find them.

[spdracr]

Guys the manual does wonders when it comes to it. Just make sure u take your time and it should be fine. I never used any pics when I did mine and I did it on both of my cars and my cousin's. And took mine off aand installed it 3 times due to a leak from the oil pump cover. Its not that hard. Some parts are tricky and requires patience.

[Galant007]

Hi! i'm going to do the timing belt replacement on my '05 Galant.

1. Where can I find the 'balance shaft check plug' for this model? i was told i need to insert an 8mm philips head screwdriver in it.

2. The TDC part, does it matter if i'm on a compression stroke or not when i align the timing marks?

I'm a DIY guy and wanted to make sure i understand these stuff before starting messing up with my car. Thanks a lot in advance.

[MattCoop57]

Are there still photos on this post??? I need to do mine, and need references other than the stupid "Haynes" Manual. I'm 55 - and not looking forward to doing this blind. Any really good tutorials with photos will be GREATLY appreciated!!!

[sweetdubbro]

Anyone have any recommendations for brands of the timing belt kit? I can get a kit with both belts and all pulleys for $75 from dayco and the dayco actuator for $50. Is dayco good? I would get mitsu parts but they are soo expensive. Also any tips? I'm nervous doing this my first time, mostly about getting the right tension for both belts. Thanks

[gnaunited]

This is the listing for timing belt kits from RockAuto: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1364060&parttype=5759

Look for one with these parts: 2 Belts, 2 Tensioners, 1 Hydraulic Tensioner, 1 Idler, 1 Water Pump. I used the full Gates kit the last time I did it, but i would think any of them would work. The water pump is optional, but seeing as how you are right there you had might as well do it.

[[email protected]]

Hi. Can anybody tell me what the measurement is on the balance shaft sleeve that rest behind the seal that prevents the seal from going all the way inside. it's on the 4g64 ES.