34 dollar brake rotors

[dza]

I need new brakes and I'm not wanting to spend 124 per to get them from the dealer. Is there any reason why I shouldn't get 34 dollar rotors from advanceautoparts.com? They also had a couple in the 60-70 range. Am I going to have them crack driving down the road or will they just not last as long or something?

[DOHCstunr]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(dza)</div><div class='quotemain'>I need new brakes and I'm not wanting to spend 124 per to get them from the dealer. Is there any reason why I shouldn't get 34 dollar rotors from advanceautoparts.com? They also had a couple in the 60-70 range. Am I going to have them crack driving down the road or will they just not last as long or something?</div>
people are going to dissagree with me and say some mess about cheap rotors warping and mitsubishi's warp rotors and yada yada. cause i seem to hear that mees all the time on here.
but
cheap rotors can last just as long as expensive one's with proper care.
get some decent pads though. cheap pads just don't bite.
and make absolutley sure you flush your old brake fluid out for fresh high boiling point DOT4 brake fluid.
then just make sure you grease you guide pins, replace the seal on the slide pin if its torn,
and be sure to torque your lug nuts properly.

myself i use premium rotors and pads because i require the higher friction coefficient and cooling ability you get with them.
but if you aren't a spirited driver, there's no reason to upgrade.
just my 2cents.
and i speak this from pre-performance junkie experience. alot of my family still has me do their brakes with the dirty diryt cheapness. and their cars are fine. the key is to do it right. and that means a full bleed

[dza]

ah, see now you're talking stuff i dont like to do. i've never done the bleeding thing b/c I feel like i'll mess it up. i can change the rotors and pads, the rest i dont know how to mess with.

[DOHCstunr]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(dza)</div><div class='quotemain'>ah, see now you're talking stuff i dont like to do. i've never done the bleeding thing b/c I feel like i'll mess it up. i can change the rotors and pads, the rest i dont know how to mess with.</div>
bleeding is very simple and an absolute must. otherwise you are just throwing your money away.
good brake parts or not, if you don't have clean high temp fluid, you WILL NOT get even pad wear OR even brake force distribution- PERIOD

you can always pay a shop to flush out your fluid. if you bring your own you will at least know you aregetting quality fluid, you might save some money as well, depending on the shop.

[pinoyesv6]

a good reason mitsubishi's rotors and cheap rotors warp is because people buy cheap rotors and then they buy some super high peformance pads that cost twice as much as the rotors and then go on their spirited runs.

the deal is, those super high peformance pads produce much higher temperatures than the factory or regular pads.

what does that have to do with everything? well, what warps rotors? heat. these regular rotors are made for regular street applications, if you're driving around warming up those brakes really hot then you're gonna end up warping those rotors.

if you stick with a decent street compound in your brakes you should be fine. just don't expect the braking capabilities of "peformance" brake parts. i've been down that road before.

[shiznit013]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(dza)</div><div class='quotemain'>ah, see now you're talking stuff i dont like to do. i've never done the bleeding thing b/c I feel like i'll mess it up. i can change the rotors and pads, the rest i dont know how to mess with.</div>

If you can do the rotors and pads, then you can do the guide pin/slide pin, whatever you want to call it. This is definitely a necessity. I did my girlfriend's Ponticrap a month or so ago. Her slide pin boot had come off, the grease disappeared, and the pin locked up. This left the pad in almost constant contact with the rotor, eating it and the pad. It took about 30 minutes to get the seized pin out... pretty simple.

As for the bleeding, I've been wondering about that myself.... looks like a job for the Search Button!!!

[ChikagoGTZ]

Supplies Required
You will need the following tools:

· Box-end wrench suitable for your car's bleeder screws. An offset head design usually works best.
· Extra brake fluid (about 1 pint if you are just bleeding, about 3 if you are completely replacing).
· 12-inch long section of clear plastic tubing, ID sized to fit snugly over your car's bleeder screws.
· Disposable bottle for waste fluid.
· One can of brake cleaner.
· One assistant (to pump the brake pedal).

1. Loosen the lug nuts of the road wheels and place the entire vehicle on jackstands. Be sure that the car is firmly supported before going ANY further with this procedure!

2. Remove all wheels.

3. Install one lug nut backward at each corner and tighten the nut against the rotor surface. Note that this step is to limit caliper flex that may distort pedal feel.

4. Open the hood and check the level of the brake fluid reservoir. Add fluid as necessary to ensure that the level is at the MAX marking of the reservoir. Do not let the reservoir become empty at any time during the bleeding process!

Bleeding Process

1. Begin at the corner furthest from the driver and proceed in order toward the driver. (Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.) While the actual sequence is not critical to the bleed performance it is easy to remember the sequence as the farthest to the closest. This will also allow the system to be bled in such a way as to minimize the amount of potential cross-contamination between the new and old fluid.

2. Locate the bleeder screw at the rear of the caliper body (or drum brake wheel cylinder.) Remove the rubber cap from the bleeder screw – and don't lose it!

3. Place the box-end wrench over the bleeder screw. An offset wrench works best – since it allows the most room for movement.

4. Place one end of the clear plastic hose over the nipple of the bleeder screw.

5. Place the other end of the hose into the disposable bottle.

6. Place the bottle for waste fluid on top of the caliper body or drum assembly. Hold the bottle with one hand and grasp the wrench with the other hand.

7. Instruct the assistant to "apply." The assistant should pump the brake pedal three times, hold the pedal down firmly, and respond with "applied." Instruct the assistant not to release the brakes until told to do so.

8. Loosen the bleeder screw with a brief ¼ turn to release fluid into the waste line. The screw only needs to be open for one second or less. (The brake pedal will "fall" to the floor as the bleeder screw is opened. Instruct the assistant in advance not to release the brakes until instructed to do so.)

9. Close the bleeder screw by tightening it gently. Note that one does not need to pull on the wrench with ridiculous force. Usually just a quick tug will do.

10. Instruct the assistant to "release" the brakes. Note: do NOT release the brake pedal while the bleeder screw is open, as this will suck air back into the system!

11. The assistant should respond with "released."

12. Inspect the fluid within the waste line for air bubbles.

13. Continue the bleeding process (steps 11 through 16) until air bubbles are no longer present. Be sure to check the brake fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel! Add fluid as necessary to keep the level at the MAX marking. (Typically, one repeats this process 5-10 times per wheel when doing a ‘standard' bleed.)

14. Move systematically toward the driver – right rear, left rear, right front, left front - repeating the bleeding process at each corner. Be sure to keep a watchful eye on the brake fluid reservior! Keep it full!

15. When all four corners have been bled, spray the bleeder screw (and any other parts that were moistened with spilled or dripped brake fluid) with brake cleaner and wipe dry with a clean rag. (Leaving the area clean and dry will make it easier to spot leaks through visual inspection later!) Try to avoid spraying the brake cleaner DIRECTLY on any parts made of rubber or plastic, as the cleaner can make these parts brittle after repeated exposure.

16. Test the brake pedal for a firm feel. (Bleeding the brakes will not necessarily cure a "soft" or "mushy" pedal – since pad taper and compliance elsewhere within the system can contribute to a soft pedal. But the pedal should not be any worse than it was prior to the bleeding procedure!)

17. Be sure to inspect the bleeder screws and other fittings for signs of leakage. Correct as necessary.

18. Properly dispose of the used waste fluid as you would dispose of used motor oil. Important: used brake fluid should NEVER be poured back into the master cylinder reservoir!

Vehicle Wrap-Up and Road Test

1. Re-install all four wheels.

2. Raise the entire vehicle and remove jackstands. Torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer's recommended limit. Re-install any hubcaps or wheel covers.

3. With the vehicle on level ground and with the car NOT running, apply and release the brake pedal several times until all clearances are taken up in the system. During this time, the brake pedal feel may improve slightly, but the brake pedal should be at least as firm as it was prior to the bleeding process.

4. Road test the vehicle to confirm proper function of the brakes. USE CAUTION THE FIRST TIME YOU DRIVE YOUR CAR AFTER MODIFICATION TO ENSURE THE PROPER FUNCTION OF ALL VEHICLE SYSTEMS!

[Proto]

i just machined my front rotors until i upgrade to the slotted/drilled.. far as changing the pads, didnt bleed the lines at all. squeezed the piston back into the caliper. brakes work perfect.

[shiznit013]

When I ask a question, all I get is "search you noob!", but when I say I'm gonna' search, the answer just appears... ain't that some $hit.

Thanks for the write up, ChikagoGTZ.

Sticky anyone?

[Cali]

i agree although you should be OK if you dont change the fluid, but if you do you'll be suprised how crappy the fluid can be compared to fresh new fluid.

[ChikagoGTZ]

Cali, did you switch to 600 Degree fluid yet?

[DOHCstunr]

motul 600 is some good shit.
highest wet/dry boling point i've ever heard of in a non silicone DOT5.1

[ChikagoGTZ]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCSTUNR)</div><div class='quotemain'>motul 600 is some good shit.
highest wet/dry boling point i've ever heard of in a non silicone DOT5.1</div>

Yeah, I've got some on the way... Thanks RRE

[Cali]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ChikagoGTZ)</div><div class='quotemain'>Cali, did you switch to 600 Degree fluid yet?</div>

yea i had the motul although im gonna need to bleed them all over since the calipers are off to get powdercoated.