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View Full Version : Filled Motor Mounts... Sucess!!



pinoyesv6
01-10-2006, 12:26 AM
I decided to buy some liquid urethane from McMaster-Carr ('http://www.mcmaster.com/') and fill my front and rear motor mounts. The McMaster-Carr website is kinda tricky to navigate since they sell a buncha stuff. I searched for "Flexible Urethane" and it gives me a link to click on "two part casting compoounds" Scroll down a little bit and it will say "Flexible urethane" its offered in 3 different hardness.

60 Shore A Durometer - 1lb resin/hardener - p/n 8644K24 ~$30
80 Shore A Durometer - 1lb resin/hardener - p/n 8644K11 ~$27
94 Shore A Durometer - 1lb resin/hardener - p/n 8644K18 ~$29

I bought the 80A durometer. It ended up being 30 bucks after shipping. Shipping from McMaster-Carr is excellent. Really fast. I ordered it one night, it was shipped first thing that morning and then the next day it was at my door step.

If you look at deyeme racing's website, they use a similar product to fill their mounts. They use 60a Durometer for their flex mounts and 80a durometer for their firm mounts.

I bought one can to try it out. One can fills up 3 mounts but just to stay safe i say it fills up about 2 mounts. I'll explain why later.

So yea, take out the mounts you want to fill don't take them out all at once unless you have a way to support your engine and transmission properly. There's tutorials out there that tell you how to take out your mounts so i won't go over that. I decided to do the front and rear mounts.

Front roll stop. Look at all the gaps
http://www.mynameistitobhoy.com/cgi-bin/thumbs/CIMG0521.JPG ('http://www.mynameistitobhoy.com/cgi-bin/CIMG0521.JPG')

Rear roll stop. Again look at the gaps
http://www.mynameistitobhoy.com/cgi-bin/thumbs/CIMG0523.JPG ('http://www.mynameistitobhoy.com/cgi-bin/CIMG0523.JPG')

So once you have the mounts out. I cut out the lil rubber burs in the mounts with a razor knife. Then i cleaned off the mounts with some brake cleaner. Then get some duct tape and cover up one side of the mount. The more tape you put the better. the last thing you want is the urethane to leak out before it cures.

Taped the back. the more the merrier
http://www.mynameistitobhoy.com/cgi-bin/thumbs/CIMG0525.JPG ('http://www.mynameistitobhoy.com/cgi-bin/CIMG0525.JPG')

So you open up the can of the base and the activator. Don't be alarmed if you look in the can and its almost empty, its supposed to be that way. I decided to mix all the urethane up so i just poured the activator into the can of base and mixed for two minutes. If you want to do this in portions, refer to the instructions to see the mix ratios.

This is the liquid base for the flexible urethane
http://www.mynameistitobhoy.com/cgi-bin/thumbs/CIMG0529.JPG ('http://www.mynameistitobhoy.com/cgi-bin/CIMG0529.JPG')

This is the liquid activator for the flexible urethane
http://www.mynameistitobhoy.com/cgi-bin/thumbs/CIMG0528.JPG ('http://www.mynameistitobhoy.com/cgi-bin/CIMG0528.JPG')

I suggest you put the mounts in a pan just incase some of the urethane leaks out. Also support the mounts so that they are laying flat. Then just pour the urethane into the mounts. If you still have some extra urethane left over, don't throw it out just yet.

Filled front roll stop
http://www.mynameistitobhoy.com/cgi-bin/thumbs/CIMG0530.JPG ('http://www.mynameistitobhoy.com/cgi-bin/CIMG0530.JPG')

Filled rear roll stop
http://www.mynameistitobhoy.com/cgi-bin/thumbs/CIMG0531.JPG ('http://www.mynameistitobhoy.com/cgi-bin/CIMG0531.JPG')

Roll stops curing
http://www.mynameistitobhoy.com/cgi-bin/thumbs/CIMG0532.JPG ('http://www.mynameistitobhoy.com/cgi-bin/CIMG0532.JPG')

Come back like every ten minutes for the first few hours to make sure the urethane isn't leaking out. if it does leak out, just keep pouring in the leftover urethane you have. This is why i said 1lb of urethane fills about 2 mounts. If you filled 3 and the urethane leaked out, you'd only have half filled mounts.

I did this at night and came back the next morning. The mounts still looked wet but i touched it and they were firm. Let the urethane cure for 2 days. after 2 days the urethane will be 80-90% cured. The urethane will be 100% cured after a week.

But yea, after 2 days its safe to reinstall the mounts. just peel off the duct tape from the mount and use a drill to pop out any of the urethane that went through the center bolt hole. Then just reinstall the mounts.

Questions:

Do you have to remove the rubber from the mounts?
No for the front and rear mounts. If your mount is filled with oil, like the side mount, then yea, you have to get rid of that oil first.

Do you feel any vibrations?
Well, if im just sitting there in park i don't feel any vibrations. If im sitting at a stop light there is a slight increase in vibrations but I haven't done my side mounts and those are shot.

What about wheelhop?
I noticed there was a big decrease in wheel hop. There is still some wheel hop but like the last questoin stated, my side mounts are shot so that might be a contributing factor.

What are you gonna do about your side mounts?
Well, I ordered the side mounts from deyeme. I ordered my trans mount on the 20th of december and im still waiting for them. They will come eventually, i hope.

Why didn't you get all your mounts from deyeme or some other company like prothane?
Truth be it, im poor. It costs me 2 and a half days worth of down time and 30 bucks worth of urethane to do 2 mounts. I would have done the side mounts myself but I was fortunate to get refurbished deyeme side mounts which are about the faction of the cost of a new mount.

How easy is it to take out and reinstall the mounts?
You know, with the proper tools, its fairly easy. If you don't have the proper tools, its a PITA. I am fortunate to have a pretty nice tool collection with different sized wrenches, different sized sockets both normal and deep sockets and various sized extensions. The rear mount IMO is the hardest to get out but if you have the right tools its easy.

SkylineG1
01-10-2006, 12:48 AM
I wish I had a garage to do stuff like that. Good work man. Nice job.

Stewi
01-10-2006, 05:11 PM
I like the way they came out, but why not just buy them. Pro-thane sells a set of all 4 mounts for $95.

pinoyesv6
01-10-2006, 05:56 PM
i was thinking about the prothane route but i didn't have easy access to a press and filling the mounts sounded much more easier than spending a day or two trying to get the old inserts out and putting the new ones in.

seth98esT
01-10-2006, 06:03 PM
I used a saw-z-all to cut out the old mounts. And used myself as the press. Just jump on the insert once or twice and it slides right into place :biggrin:

DOHCstunr
01-10-2006, 06:49 PM
i'm a big fan of do it yourself mods. it makes you feel like an engineer for a day.
the one major and most often overlooked advantage to the prothane over ALL OTHER methods,
is that the prothane not only fills in the space where the old rubber was,
but it fills in the space inbetween the mount AND the body.
so it helps to dampen engine roll through stiffer rubber, as well as through filling in the spaces.
its the same for all the suspension bushings.

Boostedgalant56
01-24-2006, 11:31 PM
I like the way they came out, but why not just buy them. Pro-thane sells a set of all 4 mounts for $95.


where do u get those from?

VA_LANCER_RACER
01-25-2006, 12:22 AM
did you look into window weld? think its cheaper

Stewi
01-25-2006, 03:36 PM
I like the way they came out, but why not just buy them. Pro-thane sells a set of all 4 mounts for $95.


where do u get those from?

www.nolimitmotorsport.com its not on their site, call them, ask for Steve

pinoyesv6
01-25-2006, 04:19 PM
I like the way they came out, but why not just buy them. Pro-thane sells a set of all 4 mounts for $95.


where do u get those from?

since you're in GA i say try nopi. i looked in their catalog and its like less than 80 bucks.