Stupid question...important but stupid

[evil-G-nius]

So if I got a 4g63t for a gsx or a vr4 galant, do I absolutely need the 5 speed? Also can they run fwd only? I am really lost on this cuz everyone I talk to says something different. I may swap but all I keep finding is the 63t from all wheel drive cars with 5 speeds. I wanna keep my auto and put in the 63t. Probably use a gst auto trans though

[Joaltava]

Dude just use the Search button that will help you alot.........
and YES you can use the current FWD you have on ur G, i would advice the 5 speed since they are stronger than the auto but thats my opinion. Also you have more upgrades for your 5 speed tranny than the auto, there are flywheels and clutch kits that will help you shift better and other things.
If you are able to get a 6g VR-4 engine then do so i believe they are better than the normal 6 bolt 63t US engine's. If you cant get ahold of a VR-4 engine then try a JDM 63t from what i hear they are stonger than the US version.

If i am wrong someone please correct me

Thanks

[seth98esT]

Only difference between the JDM "Cyclone 4g63t is the Cyclone intake manifold. Unless it was from an Evo or 6g VR4 RS which had 510cc injectors and a big 16g vs 450cc injectors and a 14b.

The motor has nothing to do with the trans. You cannot use a 1g/6gvr4 trans so you would end up selling it if it came with the motor.

[DOHCstunr]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(seth98esT)</div><div class='quotemain'>Only difference between the JDM "Cyclone 4g63t is the Cyclone intake manifold. Â*Unless it was from an Evo or 6g VR4 RS which had 510cc injectors and a big 16g vs 450cc injectors and a 14b.

The motor has nothing to do with the trans. Â*You cannot use a 1g/6gvr4 trans so you would end up selling it if it came with the motor.</div>
only issue here is weather you go with a 6 bolt or 7 bolt motor.
if you get a 6 bolt motor you will need a 6 bolt pressure plate and possibly a 6 bolt torque converter but i'm not aure on the tc.

make sure you do your research. its going to take a lot of money, parts, and labor to do the 63t swap.
alot.
why not jsut do a dohc headswap. won't cost you nerly as much.
and will fix your current problems as well as prepare you for some boost down the road.

[evil-G-nius]

well I suppose that would be ok. I would need the head, Any body make high compression pistons for us? Dont thinks so but... I think I will stay N/A if I can...gas sucks out here

[DOHCstunr]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(evil-G-nius (aka Kimya))</div><div class='quotemain'>well I suppose that would be ok. I would need the head, Any body make high compression pistons for us? Dont thinks so but... I think I will stay N/A if I can...gas sucks out here</div>high compression n/a is worse than a standrd compression turbo from the standpoint of drivability and fuel consumption.
when you increase the compresion you increase the amount the air the motor moves at every rpm and load level. in addition to the fact that the higher compression will require the use of higher octane fuel to ward off detonation.

best thing to do if you want to squeeze out more power from your n/a 2.4 is a head swap. that will provide you with a substantial increase in volumetric effeciency over a wider rpm range.
if you don't want to swap the head ocver, then i would recomend an upgraded cam, and valvesprings and some mild port work.
then you will be able to rev higher and put out more usable power.
5 speed swap and a light flywheel makes a world of difference when it comes to quick, smooth revs and putting the power down.

if you want a free mod and don't mind a little extra vibration at a couple of points in the powerband, then ditch the balance shafts. that will free up your revs and some HP, as well as making the engine more reliable(eliminating the risk of a spun b/s bearing or a failed b/s belt) while providing more oil pressure

Balance Shaft= B/S= bull shit

[seth98esT]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCSTUNR)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(evil-G-nius (aka Kimya))</div><div class='quotemain'>well I suppose that would be ok. I would need the head, Any body make high compression pistons for us? Dont thinks so but... I think I will stay N/A if I can...gas sucks out here</div>high compression n/a is worse than a standrd compression turbo from the standpoint of drivability and fuel consumption.
when you increase the compresion you increase the amount the air the motor moves at every rpm and load level. in addition to the fact that the higher compression will require the use of higher octane fuel to ward off detonation.

best thing to do if you want to squeeze out more power from your n/a 2.4 is a head swap. that will provide you with a substantial increase in volumetric effeciency over a wider rpm range.
if you don't want to swap the head ocver, then i would recomend an upgraded cam, and valvesprings and some mild port work.
then you will be able to rev higher and put out more usable power.
5 speed swap and a light flywheel makes a world of difference when it comes to quick, smooth revs and putting the power down.

if you want a free mod and don't mind a little extra vibration at a couple of points in the powerband, then ditch the balance shafts. that will free up your revs and some HP, as well as making the engine more reliable(eliminating the risk of a spun b/s bearing or a failed b/s belt) while providing more oil pressure

Balance Shaft= B/S= bull shit</div>
I concur.

[ChikagoGTZ]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(seth98esT)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCSTUNR)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(evil-G-nius (aka Kimya))</div><div class='quotemain'>well I suppose that would be ok. I would need the head, Any body make high compression pistons for us? Dont thinks so but... I think I will stay N/A if I can...gas sucks out here</div>high compression n/a is worse than a standrd compression turbo from the standpoint of drivability and fuel consumption.
when you increase the compresion you increase the amount the air the motor moves at every rpm and load level. in addition to the fact that the higher compression will require the use of higher octane fuel to ward off detonation.

best thing to do if you want to squeeze out more power from your n/a 2.4 is a head swap. that will provide you with a substantial increase in volumetric effeciency over a wider rpm range.
if you don't want to swap the head ocver, then i would recomend an upgraded cam, and valvesprings and some mild port work.
then you will be able to rev higher and put out more usable power.
5 speed swap and a light flywheel makes a world of difference when it comes to quick, smooth revs and putting the power down.

if you want a free mod and don't mind a little extra vibration at a couple of points in the powerband, then ditch the balance shafts. that will free up your revs and some HP, as well as making the engine more reliable(eliminating the risk of a spun b/s bearing or a failed b/s belt) while providing more oil pressure

Balance Shaft= B/S= bull shit</div>
I concur.</div>
Ratified.

[shiznit013]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCSTUNR)</div><div class='quotemain'>best thing to do if you want to squeeze out more power from your n/a 2.4 is a head swap. Â*that will provide you with a substantial increase in volumetric effeciency over a wider rpm range.</div>

Does the existing ECU work with a head swap?

[Joaltava]

Well how much should it cost him to do the swat to a 63t engine????

I think somewhere between $2700-$3000 for the engine and all the parts needed to do the swap.

What do you guys think???

[seth98esT]

Sounds about right. Probably can do a '63t swap + 5spd swap for that price. And of course if you do all the work yourself.

[evil-G-nius]

Well I think I am gonna get a rebuilt long block and ditch the balance shaft! I found out that that belt snapped and then it got caught up under the timing which in turn shredded it. So I am gonna go with the normal setup only I am gonna skip the balance shaft, skip the air conditioning belt (cuz I never use it anyway). Where can I get a cam and some valve springs? I know RPW, but they tak forever and I hear they are expensive and not that reliable. What abou the valve springs too, where to get those?

[DOHCstunr]

if you ditch your a/c belt you might as well ditch the compressor, all the plumbing, and the condenser while you are at it.
save about 60 lbs in weight.
these both make the engine bay look cleaner and w/o the condenser you will open up more airflow to the radiator.
throw on a underdrive crank pulley or pulley set and grab quicker revs. and save more rotational weight from your crank.
if you pull your balance shafts you will save another 10 lbs in dead weight.

then move your battery to the trunk and you will have a nice clean open engine bay.
you would have lost about 100 lbs up front.
then moved however much your battery weighs to the back. that will bring you much closer to 50/50 weight distribution.



the less you weigh, the further that 140 hp goes.
join the auto club and ditch your spare tire, and jack. there goes more weight

[evil-G-nius]

true dat. I never thought about ditching the compressor. I wonder how much hp I have. I dont have a lot of mods but I have the ac belt removed, full exhaust (2.5"), intake. Probably only around the 140 mark. I figure stock is probably around 130 or so to the wheels so with the other crap it might be around the 140. Just a guess though. I am going to do a CAI, and I am looking into somme RPW parts. We'll see what I can come up with

[Galant98ES]

hmm dohc head swap sounds interesting
i wonder if it's more reliable than a 4g63 swap since 4g64's are not plaqued with crankwalk...
plus you could take advantage of the 2.4 displacement and boost more, right?