Engine hesitation and bumping

[chromed_out_galant]

Alrighty. Here is my situation. While I am driving normally, my car will sometimes bump when I let off the gas. When I say "bump", I mean it hesitates. As it would do if I shifted down a gear but not smoothly. Sometimes it actually makes a noise. Not loud, but noticeable. It feels like 2 small stutters before it starts coasting smoothly. Also, when I am at a stop and hit the gas, it seems like the car will shift into nuetral for a second and rev up and then shift into gear and it is not a smooth acceleration. Another thing that happens is that while I am doing normal driving and accelerating, right when it is about to shift up, the engine hesitates. Sometimes it is bad, sometimes it just seems like I shift into nuetral and then shift up and sometimes it does not do it at all. Overall tho, my car just does not ride smooth.

Here is what I have done so far to correct this:
1) Change oil ->didn't really help(didn't think it would)
2) Clean throttle bore (or body... I've heard it called both not sure which is correct.) ->helped a whole lot along w/ a change of air filter. After a few days it was back to the same old thing
3) Change tranny fluid -> helped a lot also along w/ throttle bore being cleaned but in a few days it was doing it again.

Now I first noticed the problem before I got my exhaust system, so I don't believe that is the problem although it may be. It is a megan catback... I have a v6 and it is made for a i4 so I'm not sure if this is the problem. I did have my intake in when I first noticed the problem however. It was a different one from the one I have in now (Injen... old was a no name e-bay). I am lost to why this problem is occuring. I am not at all knowledgeable about cars other than the easy stuff like changing oil and installing a CAI. Any opinions would be helpful or anything I should check to tell me what is goin on. Anyone else have this same problem with either the exhaust I have or the intake? It did not happen before I started modifying my car.
Thanks

[GalantsSuckASS]

I don't see how it could be the exhaust as long as you didn't fuck up the O2 sensor. I would check your timing. Has the belt ever been changed? Also it could be the transmission. Good luck. Maybe it's time to sell....

[chromed_out_galant]

no, belt hasn't been changed. Hopefully I don't have to sell. I would like not to. I guess I'll just have to keep tryin new things at the local shop.

[SkylineG1]

how many miles on your G?

[chromed_out_galant]

about 93,000

[pinoyesv6]

well do the timing belt for sure since you haven't had that done.

how about the plugs, did you change those yet? those were supposed to be done at 60k also.

[chromed_out_galant]

I don't think either have been done... would any of that affect the ride tho?

[pinoyesv6]

i'd check your mounts too. mine acts light that sometimes but i still have my good mount sitting under my desk and my bad mount in the car

[VegasMatt]

93K on original plugs? YIKES, hows the gas mileage been?

[RedGalant2k1]

Do a tune-up and replace the struts front and rear.

[midwestgalant]

it is more than likely the timing belt, my car does the same thing and i just did a full tune up changed all the filters and fluids in everything, put on a whole new exhasut(needed on anyways) the only thing i have not done is the timing belt, and i have 115K on the car. and i know its not the tranny cus it hesitates when in park and i just give it gas.

[chromed_out_galant]

Aight, I guess I'll be saving up and do a tune up and get a new timing belt... so much money... I wish I could spend it on upgrades. Since I'm gonna be replacing the struts anyways, anyone know where I can get some performance struts... as well as performance spark plugs.

[pinoyesv6]

pps should have the shocks struts and even spark plugs. but for spark plugs, i just went to the auto parts store and get some good ole ngk's. advanced auto had like the same price if not cheaper than online, plus i didn't have to pay shipping

[RedGalant2k1]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(chromed_out_galant)</div><div class='quotemain'>Aight, I guess I'll be saving up and do a tune up and get a new timing belt... so much money... I wish I could spend it on upgrades. Â*Since I'm gonna be replacing the struts anyways, anyone know where I can get some performance struts... as well as performance spark plugs.</div>

You can get performance plugs, wires, etc etc like Pinoy said. KYB makes their AGX performance struts.

Have you ever had an SES light? Does it have a rough idle?

[chromed_out_galant]

no, my ses light has never come on... does have a bit of a rough idle tho. I want to get performance struts b/c I am planning on getting some Tein coilovers soon. Probably gonna take a lil longer now that all this stuff is coming up. What's the best struts for these?

[pinoyesv6]

you don't need shocks and struts with tein coilovers. they come with em

[chromed_out_galant]

O... I thought they replaced the shocks only... not the struts... Well that's good news. Is there anything I do need? Other than my strut bar?

[chromed_out_galant]

how much does a tune up cost for our cars?

[n3oAcid24]

hey people..... i didnt want to start a whole new thread when this one is answering some of my questions. well my problem is some what the same..... when i accelerate, the car stays at like 500-1000 rpm. then like 2 or 3 seconds later it kicks back in. it started to do this a few weeks ago and i dont know why. yesterday my SES light came on. i remember that my SES light came on before but i fixed it by changing the fuel injectors. now i checked the plugs and wires.... i also visually checked for air leaks and stuff like that but no luck.... also 1 more thing. when my car is on i hear a knocking coming from inside the engine. what can that be? i tried to take off the cover but just ran out of time..... help me out wise men..... PLEASE!!!!!!!!

[Kalamidad]

have you checked your intake manifold for leaks?

[Da_silvagride]

hey people..... i didnt want to start a whole new thread when this one is answering some of my questions. well my problem is some what the same..... when i accelerate, the car stays at like 500-1000 rpm. then like 2 or 3 seconds later it kicks back in. it started to do this a few weeks ago and i dont know why. yesterday my SES light came on. i remember that my SES light came on before but i fixed it by changing the fuel injectors. now i checked the plugs and wires.... i also visually checked for air leaks and stuff like that but no luck.... also 1 more thing. when my car is on i hear a knocking coming from inside the engine. what can that be? i tried to take off the cover but just ran out of time..... help me out wise men..... PLEASE!!!!!!!!


Is yours a inline 4 then it might be the lash adjusters. My I4 does it too. I tried different oils like 10-30w and 5w-30. It would go away for awhile then come back. I think it occurs because the automatic valve lash adjusters get dry or something like that. This topic about the lash adjuster problem has been posted before, but no one really has found how to stop it yet. I hate listening to the knock especially when your at the traffic lights and motor makes the knock sound makes others think the car has problems.

SOMEONE PLEASE COME UP WITH A SOLUTION!

I found the post:
<span style='color:brown'>
ABNORMAL ENGINE NOISE
Abnormal engine noises can be caused by component failure or a lack of oil pressure, leading to a component failure. Subtle noises can be amplified using a mechanics stethoscope.

• A ticking or light rapping sound located in the valve cover area could be caused by automatic valve lash adjusters. This noise is heard at a frequency that is 1/2 crankshaft RPM. Engine load does not affect the noise. Do not confuse this noise with fuel injector operation.
• Crankshaft bearing noises caused by excessive clearance are heard as deep metallic knocks. Noise is loudest under load, acceleration, or when the engine is just started. May be accompanied by low oil pressure which can be checked with an oil pressure gauge.
• Connecting rod noise caused by excessive clearance is heard as a light metallic rapping noise under light loads. Noise and frequency increase with engine speed. Can be isolated using MUT II by cancelling out the cylinder. Noise will substantially decrease with the cylinder shorted out.
• Piston “slap� is caused by excessive piston to cylinder clearance. This is a dull metallic rattle at idle and under light loads. Noise may disappear as the engine warms up and the piston expands. Affected cylinder can be located with MUT II by shorting out the cylinder.

Keep in mind that noises might be coming from a source other than inside the engine. Belts, air conditioning compressors, timing belt idlers and alternators can all make noise.</span>

[n3oAcid24]

have you checked your intake manifold for leaks?

yes i checked it for leaks and saw none.....

[SpicyGalant]

how do you know if your cylinder is leaking?

[n3oAcid24]

how do you know if your cylinder is leaking?

PO304....... Misfire in Cylinder 4 right? well what can i do? which 1 is the 4th cylinder???


forget it..... i answered my own question... anyways its misfiring from the 4th cylinder. the 4th cylinder holds a Coil Pack. you think thats what is making me misfire people????

[SkylineG1]

how do you know if your cylinder is leaking?

PO304....... Misfire in Cylinder 4 right? well what can i do? which 1 is the 4th cylinder???


forget it..... i answered my own question... anyways its misfiring from the 4th cylinder. the 4th cylinder holds a Coil Pack. you think thats what is making me misfire people????


This happen to me too. I just went ahead and changed all the plugs.

[n3oAcid24]

how do you know if your cylinder is leaking?

PO304....... Misfire in Cylinder 4 right? well what can i do? which 1 is the 4th cylinder???


forget it..... i answered my own question... anyways its misfiring from the 4th cylinder. the 4th cylinder holds a Coil Pack. you think thats what is making me misfire people????


This happen to me too. I just went ahead and changed all the plugs.

i tried this last time. i think im going to change everything, Plugs, Wires, Coils. what causes a misfire????

[Kalamidad]

a bad distributor cap could be the corprite...

[Shadow19]

Well dude... Im not an 8G owner.. But i will tell you this.. I had the same fuckin problem but my car wouldnt idle or anything.... i tried EVERYTHING and put far to much money into the car and come to find out it was the distributor... So honestly id reccomend that you replace the coil pack(s).. because i had a code that said misfire on #4 as well then 2 weeks later it came up as multiple random misfires. So i would reccomend the coil packs and i highly doubt they cost as much as a distributor.. Anyways good luck

[zobgel]

just a noob question!

1 twist before start the engine the SES light came out and if the engine start the SES light's off. it's that a normal?

-thnx-

[n3oAcid24]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(zobgel)</div><div class='quotemain'>just a noob question!

1 twist before start the engine the SES light came out and if the engine start the SES light's off. it's that a normal?

-thnx-</div>

yes thats normal. it will come on when you start the car and then turn off....... https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif

oh and by the way, PROBLEM SOLVEd. it was the coil pack..... https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif