What to change along with timing belt?

[UAL Tripple 7]

My car is going in to the Mitsu dealer for a new timing belt on Monday. The dealer quoted me $299 including parts and labor for just the timing belt. What else do I need to have replaced along with this. The car is running on the original timing belt at 148,000 miles. I changed the plugs and wires already. Trans has been flushed, but I do need an oil change. I did a search and some say to have the injectors cleaned. Should I have the motor mounts inspected? My car shakes like crazy when I'm at stop lights. Could that be bad motor mounts? Any other belts I need to have replaced at 148,000 miles?

[seth98esT]

Replace the timing belt, balance shaft belt, all the pulleys for these belts and if you are on the original water pump, may as well replace it now.

Shaking at idle while in "D" could very well be bad motor mounts.

[UAL Tripple 7]

I did not know the pulleys needed to be replaced also. Is this SOP? I don't know much about cars so forgive me if this is common knowledge. I really hope I don't need new motor mounts as it seems like they can be pretty costly from what I have read on this forum.

[UAL Tripple 7]

I just dropped my G off at the Mitsu dealer. The said they could fix it today so I said why not? The total cost came out to around $800. I told them to find everything wrong withthe car and fix it. All belts are being replaced. A few parts on my rear suspension are broke, so that will also be repaired. They said no need for a water pump since the oe I have is fine. He said it makes no sense to replace it now since its fine. The motor mounts are in good condition he said. They think the vibration problem when I stop at lights while the car is in drive, has something to do with the balance shaft I think he said. Everything else was in good shape so I hope to have it back tonight. It will be nice to have a smooth running car again.

[seth98esT]

Eh if its 150k and its on the original pump, it probably would need to be replaced sometime in the near future. You never know though, it could be fine untill 200k.

As for the BS, when the BS belt is broken or if the BS is out of phase then the motor will vibrate ALOT. If thats the case, its dangerous to drive the car with a busted bs belt flapping around behind the timing cover.

[UAL Tripple 7]

Yeah they told me the belt could possible be broken. He said they would not know until he could get a closer look. He also said that the teeth that hold the belt could have be ground down over time. I'm not sure about anything right now though.

[bronxbombr]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(seth98esT)</div><div class='quotemain'>Replace the timing belt, balance shaft belt, all the pulleys for these belts and if you are on the original water pump, may as well replace it now. Â*

Shaking at idle while in "D" could very well be bad motor mounts.</div>

Ya i'd try to get my front and rear main seals changed too. Also if they are gonna go in there and move the pump out of the way anyhoo to get to the timing and BS belt why not put in a new one while your at it. What a waste of time and money not to IMO. Hope all goes well.

[UAL Tripple 7]

I asked the dealer about that, and they said why replace it if its in good condition. He said they could put a new one in that could break tomorrow. He also said that the price of the pump and labor would be the same no matter when I had it done. I just picked the car up andwas told that the front and rear engine mounts are also bad. They replaced the front mount, but they had to order the rear one. The replaced the front for free though. The car still shakes just as much at the stop lights though. I hope the rear mount will help this. They also did not replace the broken rear suspension parts so I will have to call them about that in the morning.

[loser00]

im doing all this also but i would like to do it myself how hard is it to change the bs thing and all the belts
also why do you change the pulleys

[SpicyGalant]

u know - i was inspired by this post and decided - "since i need to change my timing belt, let me cruise over to the dealer to price and set an appt cuz 299.99 aint bad"... lol.... :x well... 299.99 is what the price board says.. when i asked the rep - he said the total is 798 - i said ... "in what? dollars?" lol.. so i will be buying the parts and doing it @ my own shop, who is reputable. @ first i was gonna go bizzeerrkk thinking he was tryna beat me in the head - then i let him ride cuz i know other parts essentially are changed once u open up to change the timing belt.. so it was ok -

[Dominicano]

The front and rear mount will not have a big impact on the vibration remember its for rolling and stop to asorb the shocks. your tranny mount and passenger mount will attribut to your vibrations

[Andoy]

I know the car has a lot of miles on it, but to tell the shop "just fix everything wrong with it" is an invitation to major $$$$

[DOHCstunr]

when you do a timing set, you aren't replacing pulley's, you are replacing rollers.
the timing belt rollers are basically pulleys on ball bearings. the beargs get loose and can fail over time. or cause excess drag on the belt. its jut common procedure to replace them if they are worn, which after 150,000 is typically the case.

its also important that you replace your hydraulic tensioner when you install a new belt. especially with that many miles.
perhaps not at the first 60k mile belt change, but again, if its original and your coming up on 150k, its a must. don't want it failing on you.

[bronxbombr]

when you do a timing set, you aren't replacing pulley's, you are replacing rollers.
the timing belt rollers are basically pulleys on ball bearings. the beargs get loose and can fail over time. or cause excess drag on the belt. its jut common procedure to replace them if they are worn, which after 150,000 is typically the case.

its also important that you replace your hydraulic tensioner when you install a new belt. especially with that many miles.
perhaps not at the first 60k mile belt change, but again, if its original and your coming up on 150k, its a must. don't want it failing on you.


Listen to the man, he knows his shit.

[RED2KESV6]

If the belt on the V6 is being replaced for the first time, at 60k, what, if anything, besides the belt itself needs replacing?

[UAL Tripple 7]

I know the car has a lot of miles on it, but to tell the shop "just fix everything wrong with it" is an invitation to major $$$$ not if you already know what all pretty much needs to be fixed, plus you decide what you pay for not the shop. You do have the option to pass on certain things. I just got back from the dealer now and the rear motor mount has been replaced. My car has not been this smooth since the day I bought it. I feel zero vibration when I come to a stop light. I actually thought the car shut off a couple of times LOL. Now all I need to do is have the parts on the rear suspension fixed and I will be good.

[chbuzz]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RED2KESV6)</div><div class='quotemain'>If the belt on the V6 is being replaced for the first time, at 60k, what, if anything, besides the belt itself needs replacing?</div>I would just replace the main timing and balance shaft along with the drive belts. just as was said before the tensioners and idlers and water pump can be changed on the 120k+ tiiming maintenance..

[RedGalant2k1]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(bronxbombr)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(seth98esT)</div><div class='quotemain'>Replace the timing belt, balance shaft belt, all the pulleys for these belts and if you are on the original water pump, may as well replace it now. Â*

Shaking at idle while in "D" could very well be bad motor mounts.</div>

Ya i'd try to get my front and rear main seals changed too. Also if they are gonna go in there and move the pump out of the way anyhoo to get to the timing and BS belt why not put in a new one while your at it. What a waste of time and money not to IMO. Hope all goes well.</div>

Thats just asking for the labor dollars to go through the roof, have you ever done a rear main seal? If its not leaking don't bother replacing it, its not like a oil pan gasket or valve cover gasket.

If the water pump shows corrosion or build up replace it and flush the system, if not why fix something that isn't broken?

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Andoy)</div><div class='quotemain'>I know the car has a lot of miles on it, but to tell the shop "just fix everything wrong with it" is an invitation to major $$$$</div>

Or someone gets a chance to actually diagnose your car completely.

Not to mention every mechanic gets paid by the job, if they find something needing to be replaced, fixed, or maintained on your car it would do them good to recommend it.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCstunr)</div><div class='quotemain'>when you do a timing set, you aren't replacing pulley's, you are replacing rollers.
the timing belt rollers are basically pulleys on ball bearings. the beargs get loose and can fail over time. or cause excess drag on the belt. Â*its jut common procedure to replace them if they are worn, which after 150,000 is typically the case.

its also important that you replace your hydraulic tensioner when you install a new belt. especially with that many miles.
perhaps not at the first 60k mile belt change, but again, if its original and your coming up on 150k, its a must. Â*don't want it failing on you.</div>

Why replace the tensioner if it operates well? We get cars all the time that have original tensioners on them with well over 150k. We have put motors in cars where the engine blew the oil filter off the motor or were completely siezed and the original tensioner was reuseable, most of those cars had over 100k

Its not a must in most cases. If the car is maintained the need to replace anything on the car is reduced. I always recommend following the standard recommended maintence in your owners manual.

[DOHCstunr]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedGalant2k1)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(bronxbombr)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(seth98esT)</div><div class='quotemain'>Replace the timing belt, balance shaft belt, all the pulleys for these belts and if you are on the original water pump, may as well replace it now. Â*

Shaking at idle while in "D" could very well be bad motor mounts.</div>

Ya i'd try to get my front and rear main seals changed too. Also if they are gonna go in there and move the pump out of the way anyhoo to get to the timing and BS belt why not put in a new one while your at it. What a waste of time and money not to IMO. Hope all goes well.</div>

Thats just asking for the labor dollars to go through the roof, have you ever done a rear main seal? If its not leaking don't bother replacing it, its not like a oil pan gasket or valve cover gasket.

If the water pump shows corrosion or build up replace it and flush the system, if not why fix something that isn't broken?

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Andoy)</div><div class='quotemain'>I know the car has a lot of miles on it, but to tell the shop "just fix everything wrong with it" is an invitation to major $$$$</div>

Or someone gets a chance to actually diagnose your car completely.

Not to mention every mechanic gets paid by the job, if they find something needing to be replaced, fixed, or maintained on your car it would do them good to recommend it.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCstunr)</div><div class='quotemain'>when you do a timing set, you aren't replacing pulley's, you are replacing rollers.
the timing belt rollers are basically pulleys on ball bearings. the beargs get loose and can fail over time. or cause excess drag on the belt. Â*its jut common procedure to replace them if they are worn, which after 150,000 is typically the case.

its also important that you replace your hydraulic tensioner when you install a new belt. especially with that many miles.
perhaps not at the first 60k mile belt change, but again, if its original and your coming up on 150k, its a must. Â*don't want it failing on you.</div>

Why replace the tensioner if it operates well? We get cars all the time that have original tensioners on them with well over 150k. We have put motors in cars where the engine blew the oil filter off the motor or were completely siezed and the original tensioner was reuseable, most of those cars had over 100k

Its not a must in most cases. If the car is maintained the need to replace anything on the car is reduced. I always recommend following the standard recommended maintence in your owners manual.</div>


umm, cause tensioners fail. faulty tensioners (or tensioners that go out of spec) can cause timing belt failure. without warning.

and its cheap insurance.
uh... and why not?
if you are doing the work yourself. why not replace everything that has a significant amount of miles. cause you are already saving money from the dealers "fuck you in the ass labor rates".


yeha thats right i said it.

[RedGalant2k1]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCstunr)</div><div class='quotemain'>
umm, cause tensioners fail. faulty tensioners (or tensioners that go out of spec) can cause timing belt failure. Â* without warning. Â*

and its cheap insurance.
uh... and why not?
if you are doing the work yourself. why not replace everything that has a significant amount of miles. Â*cause Â*you are already saving money from the dealers "fuck you in the ass labor rates".


yeha thats right i said it.</div>

DOn't like the price go down the street, they don't force you to buy what is recommended. Besides for a professional mechanic to take what 30mins to 1hr to diagnose your problem isn't worth anything to you? Obviously if you can do it yourself great, most people cannot.

I have seen dealers hourly rates range from $70-100 is that really so bad? Remember its a flat rate, if it takes longer than the quoted time they don't get paid anymore.

If you really want to complain talk to the people who write the service books like Mitchell. If book time for a average mechanic to do a timing belt is 2 hours but a good experienced tech can do the same in 1 hour why aren't they entitled to the standard labor rate of 2 hours? Their tools, time, and health all cost money.

Just remember you get what you paid for, and sorry but I'd rather not undercut things when it comes to servicing my car, or more importantly my wifes car.

[RED2KESV6]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(chbuzz)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RED2KESV6)</div><div class='quotemain'>If the belt on the V6 is being replaced for the first time, at 60k, what, if anything, besides the belt itself needs replacing?</div>I would just replace the main timing and balance shaft along with the drive belts. just as was said before the tensioners and idlers and water pump can be changed on the 120k+ tiiming maintenance..</div>

Huh? Balance shaft in a V6? Ya sure about that? I know the 4's have one, but I've never heard of a V6 having one.

[chbuzz]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RED2KESV6)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(chbuzz)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RED2KESV6)</div><div class='quotemain'>If the belt on the V6 is being replaced for the first time, at 60k, what, if anything, besides the belt itself needs replacing?</div>I would just replace the main timing and balance shaft along with the drive belts. just as was said before the tensioners and idlers and water pump can be changed on the 120k+ tiiming maintenance..</div>

Huh? Balance shaft in a V6? Ya sure about that? I know the 4's have one, but I've never heard of a V6 having one.</div>yeah my bad I was thinkin 4 cyl..