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View Full Version : Energy Suspension End Links



ChikagoGTZ
03-13-2006, 01:01 PM
Has anyone looked into adding Energy Suspension sway-bar end-links?? I'm not sure how these are above stock, but they looked ok to me....

DOHCstunr
03-13-2006, 01:19 PM
we have ball joint type end links

so the energy endlink bushings wouldn't be applicaple,

however,
just the sway bar bushingss make a big difference, especially if yours are stock and worn out from miles
get the black ones so they won't squeak.

ChikagoGTZ
03-13-2006, 01:44 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCstunr)</div><div class='quotemain'>we have ball joint type end links

so the energy endlink bushings wouldn't be applicaple,

however,
just the sway bar bushingss make a big difference, especially if yours are stock and worn out from miles
get the black ones so they won't squeak.</div>

Ah, thanks! I have the addco rear sway bar with the poly bushings already. I'm looking at upgrading my engine mounts (front, back and both sides) soon...not sure the best brand though. I'll also want to replace my strut and control arm bushings as well.

shiznit013
03-22-2006, 09:00 PM
I got the poly mounts in my sig. from jegs. They're probably my favorite mod... the wheels hop less, and everything vibrates like a mofo. They're only front and rear mounts, but the engine torques to the right (rear), so they're the most important to stiffen. The only thing that sucked was finding someone with an A-press to get the old inserts out and the new ones in... that and someone bent my radiator support assembly by jacking on it when the center member was removed :cry:

acitydweller
03-23-2006, 10:35 AM
true, check on your worn bushings and replacement if needed. I was always worried about the engine mounts as it would transfer some of the engine vibration to the passenger cabin in some vehicles.

ChikagoGTZ
03-23-2006, 11:13 AM
Deyeme make a full set of replacement mounts (front/rear/and side)

You can select firm or flex for them, I'd likely go with Firm front/rear and flex sides....$300 for all 4 isn't too bad, and it's alot easier than changing inserts yourself.

http://www.deyemeracing.com/ ('http://www.deyemeracing.com/')

neel9
03-23-2006, 11:17 AM
does energysuspension sell bushing for the rear suspension of our cars?.. missing some bushing on my rear suspension :shock:

DOHCstunr
03-23-2006, 11:18 AM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ChikagoGTZ)</div><div class='quotemain'>Deyeme make a full set of replacement mounts (front/rear/and side)

You can select firm or flex for them, I'd likely go with Firm front/rear and flex sides....$300 for all 4 isn't too bad, and it's alot easier than changing inserts yourself.

http://www.deyemeracing.com/</div>
yeah but you can get protanes for under 80 shipped.

all you need is a sawzall to get the old bushings out.
then the new ones pop in.(you only need to remove the factory rubber for the side ones.

ChikagoGTZ
03-23-2006, 11:30 AM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCstunr)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ChikagoGTZ)</div><div class='quotemain'>Deyeme make a full set of replacement mounts (front/rear/and side)

You can select firm or flex for them, I'd likely go with Firm front/rear and flex sides....$300 for all 4 isn't too bad, and it's alot easier than changing inserts yourself.

http://www.deyemeracing.com/</div>
yeah but you can get protanes for under 80 shipped.

all you need is a sawzall to get the old bushings out.
then the new ones pop in.(you only need to remove the factory rubber for the side ones.</div>

I've heard it's a royal pain in the arse....but I'll check it out.

DOHCstunr
03-23-2006, 12:15 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ChikagoGTZ)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCstunr)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ChikagoGTZ)</div><div class='quotemain'>Deyeme make a full set of replacement mounts (front/rear/and side)

You can select firm or flex for them, I'd likely go with Firm front/rear and flex sides....$300 for all 4 isn't too bad, and it's alot easier than changing inserts yourself.

http://www.deyemeracing.com/</div>
yeah but you can get protanes for under 80 shipped.

all you need is a sawzall to get the old bushings out.
then the new ones pop in.(you only need to remove the factory rubber for the side ones.</div>

I've heard it's a royal pain in the arse....but I'll check it out.</div>
just takes a little patience.
motor mounts aren't really the pain. its installing the suspesnion bushings that sucks.
but as always worth every penny.


if your motor mounts arew already torn its easier.
just poke out the old rubber or cut it out enough you can get the sawzall blade in.
then just make 2 or 3 cuts through the metal sleeve that sorrunds the rubber(not the mount itself)
then take a screw driver and a hammer and give a nice gentle tap at each of the cut pieces of the metal sleeve. and they'll come right out.
after that. just use your hands and a little grease to push in the new mounts.
done.

Stewi
03-23-2006, 04:02 PM
to install the prothane inserts you need to remove the factory rubber from the the front mount and both side mounts. As for the deyeme mounts, all they are is stock mounts that are blown and they fill around them with liquid urethane, if you go that route, your better off making your own. I installed my prothane mounts in about 3 or 4 hours. As far as the deyem "Flex" or "firm" mounts, it would make no sense to get anything but firm, the reason your upgrading is because you want the best performance and the best performance will always be the harder mount, if someone made solid metal mount inserts, I would be the first to buy them.

DOHCstunr
03-23-2006, 04:06 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Stewi)</div><div class='quotemain'>to install the prothane inserts you need to remove the factory rubber from the the front mount and both side mounts. As for the deyeme mounts, all they are is stock mounts that are blown and they fill around them with liquid urethane, if you go that route, your better off making your own. I installed my prothane mounts in about 3 or 4 hours. As far as the deyem "Flex" or "firm" mounts, it would make no sense to get anything but firm, the reason your upgrading is because you want the best performance and the best performance will always be the harder mount, if someone made solid metal mount inserts, I would be the first to buy them.</div>

oh come on man,

solid metal?
how hard would that be. jut take a couple of slugs of low grade billet. and take it to a high school shop lab with a cnc machine.
a measurement here, a measurement there, and a hydraulic press,
done
even brass would work.

shiznit013
03-24-2006, 12:13 AM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ChikagoGTZ)</div><div class='quotemain'>Deyeme make a full set of replacement mounts (front/rear/and side)

You can select firm or flex for them, I'd likely go with Firm front/rear and flex sides....$300 for all 4 isn't too bad, and it's alot easier than changing inserts yourself.

http://www.deyemeracing.com/</div>

Easier... yes. Cheaper... yes (once you calculate in the sub-frame repair costs). What was that third thing you said? :wink:

It would have been simpler if I knew a bit more at that point, or had better access to tools. I've heard of people melting the stock inserts out, but I don't know how they'd get the metal sleave out after that.

The hardest part of the whole job was really contorting myself to get the 3 rear mount bolts loose. There is limited space, and getting any type of leverage was hard. Oh yeah... don't leave your car in park, or you'll get a nice suprise when gravity levels your engine out.

Stewi
03-24-2006, 03:55 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(shiznit013)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ChikagoGTZ)</div><div class='quotemain'>Deyeme make a full set of replacement mounts (front/rear/and side)

You can select firm or flex for them, I'd likely go with Firm front/rear and flex sides....$300 for all 4 isn't too bad, and it's alot easier than changing inserts yourself.

http://www.deyemeracing.com/</div>

Easier... yes. Cheaper... yes (once you calculate in the sub-frame repair costs). What was that third thing you said? :wink:</div>

what are you talking about sub-frame repair costs?

shiznit013
03-25-2006, 11:50 AM
My roommate jacked the car up under the radiator support assembly, since the service manual suggested point is the center member, but that was removed for the install. The center member tied into the radiator support assembly, so it seemed like the next safest place to jack. As the car was raised, it sounded like the parking brake groaning as the weight shifted back, but it was actually the sub-frame bending. A new assembly was only $100, but I don't have any welding equipment, or welding knowledge, so it ended up being around $900 to have a body shop do it.

Stewi
03-25-2006, 01:05 PM
WOW. Honestly, you were better off letting the body shop do it. The radiator support is a key structural part of the car, as it welds to the upper and lower frame rails. I have seen many radiator supports replaced, I have watched the entire process and to tell you I wouldnt even feel comfortable changing it myself.

shiznit013
03-27-2006, 05:49 PM
That was back in October. The car still handles fine, and I don't hear any unsual noises, so I guess they did a good job. I'm always leary of letting other people do work on my car... I just don't trust 'em.

shiznit013
04-04-2006, 10:18 PM
we have ball joint type end links

so the energy endlink bushings wouldn't be applicaple,

however,
just the sway bar bushingss make a big difference, especially if yours are stock and worn out from miles
get the black ones so they won't squeak.

Ah, thanks! I have the addco rear sway bar with the poly bushings already. I'm looking at upgrading my engine mounts (front, back and both sides) soon...not sure the best brand though. I'll also want to replace my strut and control arm bushings as well.

I just installed my Addco sway bar on Sunday, and it squeaks like a mother. Does anyone have a recommendation on grease (or whatever else) to shut these things up?

Did you have clearance issues with your exhuast, because my bar and exhaust are in constant contact? All of my exhaust hangers are in place.

I was thinking about grinding some of the metal off of the eyelets that connect to the stabilizer end links, since they're much bulkier than the stock ones. I'm worried about them coming into contact with suspension components.

Danger DANJ
04-05-2006, 12:21 PM
we have ball joint type end links

so the energy endlink bushings wouldn't be applicaple,

however,
just the sway bar bushingss make a big difference, especially if yours are stock and worn out from miles
get the black ones so they won't squeak.

Ah, thanks! I have the addco rear sway bar with the poly bushings already. I'm looking at upgrading my engine mounts (front, back and both sides) soon...not sure the best brand though. I'll also want to replace my strut and control arm bushings as well.

I just installed my Addco sway bar on Sunday, and it squeaks like a mother. Does anyone have a recommendation on grease (or whatever else) to shut these things up?

Did you have clearance issues with your exhuast, because my bar and exhaust are in constant contact? All of my exhaust hangers are in place.

I was thinking about grinding some of the metal off of the eyelets that connect to the stabilizer end links, since they're much bulkier than the stock ones. I'm worried about them coming into contact with suspension components.
I don't have any squeaking at all with my Addco RSB. About the bar hitting the exhaust, I had the same problem with the same Dynomax cat-back as you. At first it was really bad, but then I realized the muffler had fallen out of one of the rubbber hangers. I had to use a small band clamp to keep it from falling out again because there is no nub at the end of the metal like on the other metal hangers. Make sure your muffler didn't fall out too. After I fixed that, the bar would still hit the exhaust once in a while, but seeing that the muffler sit pretty low and the tip didn't sit up close to the bumper, I raised the front of the muffler to bring the tip closer to the bumper. In doing so, I had no more problems with the bar hitting the exhaust.

shiznit013
04-05-2006, 09:31 PM
Thanks... I'll double check the hangers, and see if i can pull the exhaust up in any other way.

My bushings are very noisy... I dread even going over small bumps, because I know people are going to stare. They seem to be made out of rubber... did other people get polyurethane with theirs?

DOHCstunr
04-05-2006, 10:21 PM
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(shiznit013)</div><div class='quotemain'>Thanks... I'll double check the hangers, and see if i can pull the exhaust up in any other way.

My bushings are very noisy... I dread even going over small bumps, because I know people are going to stare. Â*They seem to be made out of rubber... did other people get polyurethane with theirs?</div>

you just need some grease for those bushings. go to autozone and get some of the energy suspension polyurethane bushing grease. it should fix your problem.

you can get polyurethane exhasut hangers on ebay that won't sag and keep your exhaust in place, as well as dampen low pitched vibration.
i think i paid 6 bucks plus shipping for a pair. on my car it replaces 5 of them

shiznit013
04-05-2006, 10:40 PM
More helpful hints, thank you.