My manual journey begins...

[DryBear]

So, as some of you may know, my auto tranny finally succumbed to the heat and mad powah! of boost, which was aided by my laziness to install a tranny cooler.

I was going back and forth debating wether to:
stay auto, and get the tranny cooler in plus a high stall torque converter, but risk another failure as the *stock* auto tranny hasn't had much luck on the V6 galants.

or go manual - see I live in the San Francisco Bay area, with lots of traffic and lots of hills, so I've been pampered by having an automatic.

In the end, I felt going manual would be the better choice for me as:
1. the auto tranny is a lot bigger, and comes *very* close to the turbo, almost touching it - there is barely any room there and I think may have also contributed to the auto tranny demise (read lots of heat from the turbo).
2. better gas mileage
3. more freed up horsepower

Yes, the last time I had to drive a stick was a rental car 6 years ago on my honeymoon in Tahiti, so I'm going to have to get used to it again.

Anyway, I just procured a manual transmission from an '02 Stratus coupe (the Dodge sister car to the 3G Eclipse) and hopefully that should arrive early next week.

Now I gotta source the other parts from other junk yards, as the one I got it from only had the transmission.

Shopping list:
[r] used V6 manual transmission $675 Shipped (http://www.car-parts.com)
[r] manual transmission mount (Local Dealership)
cylinder block plate (Thanks Russ!)
Spec Stage 2 Clutch Kit $349 (Club 3G Group Buy (http://www.club3g.com/forum/showthread.php?t=54147))
Fidanza Flywheel $344 (http://www.tearstone.com)
[r] Clutch Hydraulic Line Assembly (Local Dealership)
[r] new clutch master cylinder $64.94 (http://www.partsamerica.com)
[r] new clutch slave cylinder $34.95 (http://www.partsamerica.com)
clutch, brake, and accelerator pedals $45 (http://www.msrecycling.com)
Megan Racing Short Shifter (Club 3G Group Buy (http://www.club3g.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67484))
manual shifter assembly $75 (http://www.msrecycling.com)
shifter cables $75 (http://www.msrecycling.com)
2 new axle seals (Local Dealership)

o = On Order
r = Received
* = Installed

Sources/References:
http://www.car-part.com
RippMods.com - 6g72 5-spd manual Galant w/SDS (http://www.rippmods.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1301)
TGC - Perfect 8g V6 Tranny Swap (https://www.thegalantcenter.org/index.php?showtopic=47361)
TGC - 8G Auto to Manual Conversion DONE! (https://www.thegalantcenter.org/index.php?showtopic=42078)
Club3g.com - Sporty to 5spd trannsmission swap (http://www.club3g.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40682&)
1994-1998 Mitsubishi Galant Auto to Manual Transmission Conversion (http://socallifestyle.com/tutorial/tutorial.html)

Pic of complete swap parts from Tearstone:
http://tearstone.com/eclipse/07220501.jpg

Parts List thread:
https://www.thegalantcenter.org/viewt...pic.php?t=49781 (https://www.thegalantcenter.org/viewtopic.php?t=49781)

[empyrean]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DryBear)</div><div class='quotemain'>
Yes, the last time I had to drive a stick was a rental car 6 years ago on my honeymoon in Tahiti, so I'm going to have to get used to it again.</div>

Don't worry, it's like riding a bike... at least it is for me. Lots of pedaling! Ahaha.. kidding, I kid. Seriously, I go for long times without manual transmissions and do fine... it's like a 60 second reacclimation period.

Edit: and congratulations! Lots of pictures when you get going, yes? Of course.

[peanotation]

your reasoning for going with the manual is just, not to mention the automatic weighs a lot more than the manual (weight savings right there) and the power transfer with an actual CLUTCH compared to a huge circular piece of shit some people refer to as a "torque converter" will give you a traction-twitchy 3rd with that turbo V6

[DOHCstunr]

can't you guys use the 5 sped brake pedal?
isn't the spacing way off if you grind down the automatic pedal?


good luck. can't wait to see you tearing up the streets.

don't forget to add in

clutch line(slowboy makes one for the evo's / 3g now thats shorter and its full stainless fom master to slave)
poly or brass shift plate bushings
brass shifter cable bushings
a liter of motul high temp brake or clutch fluid.
<span style='font-size:12pt;line-height:100%'>LSD</span>


its so nice to have a turbo on hills.
no need to downshift, just open it up a little.

its such a weird feeling how the turbo just balances out the load from the hill all on its own.

[DryBear]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCstunr)</div><div class='quotemain'>can't you guys use the 5 sped brake pedal?
isn't the spacing way off if you grind down the automatic pedal?</div>
Yeah, we can, but right now I just want to get it all done before MOD. If it bothers me, I will go find a proper 5 speed brake pedal.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCstunr)</div><div class='quotemain'>clutch line(slowboy makes one for the evo's / 3g now thats shorter and its full stainless fom master to slave)</div>

Is this the one?
http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=1233& ('http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=1233&')
Does that work on the V6 3G/8G? Guess I will have to give them a call.
*edit* called them up and asked if it would fit, and he said a local guy with a 2001 Galant used them and said they fit - anyone from here?

I do plan on getting an LSD, but thats about $1K later (no, I don't want an insert, either)

[Jet Black]

Good luck dude. Like Matt said, your mos def making the right choice. After driving around my buddy's stick for a while, I must say it is addicting. I couldn't stop thinking about it for the next few days. https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif

[DryBear]

Thanks for the well wishes - the hardest part right now is trying to find all the parts in time before MOD :!:

[DOHCstunr]

call and ask them idf they ahve a different length one between the evo/3g and the 7g/2g.
cause it would be lame if it was one length for both.
would be VERY LONG

[VegasMatt]

I was talking to Russ at Tearstone a while back and he might have some parts laying around if he didnt sell them yet. Just trying to point you in the right direction.

[DryBear]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(VegasMatt)</div><div class='quotemain'>I was talking to Russ at Tearstone a while back and he might have some parts laying around if he didnt sell them yet. Â*Just trying to point you in the right direction.</div>

Thanks for the tip, but he already sold all the parts to someone else. https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif

[SinSere]

think you made the right call man. A turbo deserves to be mated with a manual transmission. I feel for ya on the hills and so on though. It took me at least a month to get used to the Eclipse after driving autos for the previous 5 or 6 years.

[Tearstone]

I do have a killer price on Fidanza lightweight flywheels and have one in stock ready to ship that you should get https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif They do make a nice difference.

[AVERAGE]

Kinda off topic guys but I always thought that the dead pedal was huge in the 8g and im rocking size 12s. Has this been an issue for anyone else that has done the swap? :?

[GOOSEY2099]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(AVERAGE)</div><div class='quotemain'>Kinda off topic guys but I always thought that the dead pedal was huge in the 8g and im rocking size 12s. Has this been an issue for anyone else that has done the swap? Â*:?</div>
NOPE! I have all 4 pedals and its great

[Stewi]

I took the dead pedal out. As for the brake pedal, I just went to my local dealer, looked at a 5 speed 3G, measured the brake pedal, and cut my stock one to the same size using an air rotary cutter. Took about 20 seconds.

[AVERAGE]

Not the deadpedal itself but that whole hump...

[FrankMB]

Niceeeeeeeeeeeeeeee !!

Let me know if you need anything. You have my # right.

[DryBear]

Did some research, and it looks like I should be okay with my current axles - the 02 and up 3G Eclipse/Stratus RT manual and auto axle are the same, and is apparently the same as the 8G Galant.

[Tearstone]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DryBear)</div><div class='quotemain'>Did some research, and it looks like I should be okay with my current axles - the 02 and up 3G Eclipse/Stratus RT manual and auto axle are the same, and is apparently the same as the 8G Galant.</div>

I read here that the portion of the passenger axle that extends from the axle bracket to the transmission is a different length, which is why in the picture I have a the full axle from the 5 speed just incase.

But that does not make too much sense if you think about it unless the differential housing is bigger or smaller on the 5 spd, both transmissions use the same differential. Hrm...

[DryBear]

Yikes, just went and bought almost everything, and boy is my wallet sore :x
Hopefully everything should be coming soon, and arrive before MOD :!:

[DryBear]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Tearstone)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DryBear)</div><div class='quotemain'>Did some research, and it looks like I should be okay with my current axles - the 02 and up 3G Eclipse/Stratus RT manual and auto axle are the same, and is apparently the same as the 8G Galant.</div>

I read here that the portion of the passenger axle that extends from the axle bracket to the transmission is a different length, which is why in the picture I have a the full axle from the 5 speed just incase.

But that does not make too much sense if you think about it unless the differential housing is bigger or smaller on the 5 spd, both transmissions use the same differential. Hrm...</div>

Yeah, that axle thing has got me biting my nails - fortunately I found a nice junk yard near me that I can hopefully source more parts from.

As for the differential, so the Quafie diff will fit both auto and manual?

[Tearstone]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DryBear)</div><div class='quotemain'>As for the differential, so the Quafie diff will fit both auto and manual?</div>

Yessir it will https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif

[DryBear]

w00t!!! The transmission is here - one heavy mofo at 120lbs! Pics coming soon!

[Jet Black]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DryBear)</div><div class='quotemain'>w00t!!! The transmission is here - one heavy mofo at 120lbs! Pics coming soon!</div>

We got our transmissions on the same day. https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif

BTW You switching to stiffer mounts?

[DryBear]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Jet Black)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DryBear)</div><div class='quotemain'>w00t!!! The transmission is here - one heavy mofo at 120lbs! Pics coming soon!</div>

We got our transmissions on the same day. https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif

BTW You switching to stiffer mounts?</div>

Eventually I'm switching to stuffer mounts - I'm just getting OEM for now ta get-er-dun!

[pinoyesv6]

get a stiffer tranny mount from like deyeme or something. you'll get the mount and it will be filled. you'll kill two birds with one stone. and if they have a refurbished one, it will be cheaper than getting a new one at the dealership.

[DOHCstunr]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DryBear)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Jet Black)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DryBear)</div><div class='quotemain'>w00t!!! The transmission is here - one heavy mofo at 120lbs! Pics coming soon!</div>

We got our transmissions on the same day. https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif

BTW You switching to stiffer mounts?</div>

Eventually I'm switching to stuffer mounts - I'm just getting OEM for now ta get-er-dun!</div>
yueah with the torque you will be making w/ yoru boosted motor, you are going to have a LOT of driveline deflection. your motor is going to be rocking around like none other.
definatly gotta go with the 3g prothane kit.
you have no other choice
you can get them pretty cheap on ebay

[DryBear]

I may actually get some Deyeme Racing mounts, as they are actually the whole mount and not just a press in - unfortunately their website is down at this time so I gotta find another way to contact them.

Anyway - some new pics, 2002 Dodge Stratus R/T 3.0L Manual Transmission, ~20K miles:
http://img110.imageshack.us/img110/9493/20060719204110dcp0083lb5.th.jpg ('http://img110.imageshack.us/my.php?image=20060719204110dcp0083lb5.jpg')
http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/6683/20060719204039dcp0081gj0.th.jpg ('http://img208.imageshack.us/my.php?image=20060719204039dcp0081gj0.jpg')
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/3810/20060719204126dcp0084ko0.th.jpg ('http://img152.imageshack.us/my.php?image=20060719204126dcp0084ko0.jpg')
http://img110.imageshack.us/img110/6227/20060719204053dcp0082yr4.th.jpg ('http://img110.imageshack.us/my.php?image=20060719204053dcp0082yr4.jpg')

[DOHCstunr]

deyeme only fills in the empty space within the mount.
they don't replace the factory rubber with harder poly.
they don't fill in the space between the mount and the perches.

prothanes are cheaper, replace ALL 4 MOUNTS,
they not only fill in the space inside the mount, but also the space around the mount
look at this pic of seths engine bay. notice the mount on the right side of the bay.
because that mount fills in the space between the mount and the body it also helps toi keep the engine from deflecting, even though thats not a roll stopping mount by design.


prothane = better

http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=3801& ('http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=3801&')

http://i4.ebayimg.com/03/i/05/db/36/c7_1_b.JPG ('http://i4.ebayimg.com/03/i/05/db/36/c7_1_b.JPG')
looks to me that these prothane replace all the stock rubber.


trans looks great btw

[DryBear]

Either way, I need the actual mount itself.

[DryBear]

Update: Shifter assembly, cables, and pedals came in today - they sent me all three pedals 8)

http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/239/20060720111549dcp0085qk5.th.jpg ('http://img213.imageshack.us/my.php?image=20060720111549dcp0085qk5.jpg')
http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/2959/20060720111604dcp0086vm8.th.jpg ('http://img255.imageshack.us/my.php?image=20060720111604dcp0086vm8.jpg')

[DOHCstunr]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DryBear)</div><div class='quotemain'>Either way, I need the actual mount itself.</div>
indeed. just trying to emphasize the superiority

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DryBear)</div><div class='quotemain'>Update: Shifter assembly, cables, and pedals came in today - they sent me all three pedals Cool</div>
hell yes. gotta love having everythign it takes for a clean install.

boy oh boy i can almost taste it

[Jet Black]

That is nothing short of SEX!

[pinoyesv6]

here's the email address for deyeme [email protected] if the have a refubished mtx mount then that will definitely be cheaper than a new one from the dealership. and if you wanted to, you can press out the filled part and press on a prothane if you went that route in the future.

[Tearstone]

I also pointed Len in the way of Deyeme, but since this project is urgent, I pointed him in the way of http://www.msrecycling.com ('http://www.msrecycling.com') as 9 times out of 10 they always have the stock part I need and for a very fair price.

[leicoolya]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DryBear)</div><div class='quotemain'>So, as some of you may know, my auto tranny finally succumbed to the heat and mad powah! of boost, which was aided by my laziness to install a tranny cooler. Â*

I was going back and forth debating wether to:
stay auto, and get the tranny cooler in plus a high stall torque converter, but risk another failure as the auto tranny hasn't had much luck on the V6 galants (leicoolya on TGC had a level 10 tranny that turned to soup).
</div>

Sorry bro thats total bullshit, never had level 10 tranny, my stock trans turned to shit, I have a fully built auto thats running VERY strong. make sure you get your story straight

[DryBear]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(leicoolya)</div><div class='quotemain'><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DryBear)</div><div class='quotemain'>So, as some of you may know, my auto tranny finally succumbed to the heat and mad powah! of boost, which was aided by my laziness to install a tranny cooler. Â*

I was going back and forth debating wether to:
stay auto, and get the tranny cooler in plus a high stall torque converter, but risk another failure as the auto tranny hasn't had much luck on the V6 galants (leicoolya on TGC had a level 10 tranny that turned to soup).
</div>

Sorry bro thats total bullshit, never had level 10 tranny, my stock trans turned to shit, I have a fully built auto thats running VERY strong. make sure you get your story straight</div>

Sorry bout that - I stand corrected. Looking back at the posts, I got you mixed up with Shane, who had a Level 10 tranny that died rather quickly.

[AVERAGE]

Thought this might help you out http://www.club3g.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69243 ('http://www.club3g.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69243')

[DryBear]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(AVERAGE)</div><div class='quotemain'>Thought this might help you out Â* http://www.club3g.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69243</div>

Thanks, but thats for an I4 - I have one on order anyway.

[DryBear]

*Update* All parts are in except for my clutch - hopefully that comes at least tomorrow - :x

[DryBear]

Status:
turbo downpipe removed
IC piping in general area removed
Axles Removed
Crossmember and tranny mounts removed
Starter removed
bolts on plate -> torque converter removed
tranny -> engine bolts removed

Right now the !@&^&&# tranny doesn't want to let go of the engine - any of you local Bay Area peeps think you can give me a hand?

[DOHCstunr]

wow all that progress,
its amazing how many steps get added to simple tasks because of a turbokit.

don't forget to use all new gaskets when bolting all those exhaust flanges back together.

can't wait for you to lay that power down!

[DryBear]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DOHCstunr)</div><div class='quotemain'>wow all that progress, Â*
its amazing how many steps get added to simple tasks because of a turbokit.

don't forget to use all new gaskets when bolting all those exhaust flanges back together.

can't wait for you to lay that power down!</div>

I actually didnt have to take off my exhaust manifolds, so that saves me some trouble.

But yeah, I'd recommend anyone wanting to go turbo+manual swap do the swap first - its double pain in the ass as all my wiring for sensors, gauges, alarm, etc were running through the hole where the clutch master cylinder goes, so I also had to pull out *all* that wiring and figure out a new place to re-run the wires
:explode:

Tip of the day - the support bracket for the right hand side axle has two bolts - I was trying for hours to get the durn thing out till I decided to check it with a telescoping mirror and found I only took out one bolt
:dumbass:

[IceDouTGaLanT]

ur gona have rewire mostly everything on that emange correct? so napalms maps will be useless for us? and use the 2 lil M/T he has listed

[DryBear]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(IceDouTGaLanT)</div><div class='quotemain'>ur gona have rewire mostly everything on that emange correct? so napalms maps will be useless for us? and use the 2 lil M/T he has listed</div>

The signals that the eManage monitors/modifies are not related to the tranny, so no, I shouldn't have to rewire the eManage. Unless you switch to a M/T ECU from a 3G eclipse, you would still use the same A/T wiring diagram.

[IceDouTGaLanT]

ahhh great news then https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif

[DryBear]

Sooo

After many delays with family, work and stuff I finally get some time to work on the swap - unfortuantely, I got bit in the ass with wrong parts.

Apparently, Spec sent me the wrong stage 2 clutch - the holes where the metal dowels of the flywheel are supposed to mate up to the clutch pressure plate are too small. The dowels on my Fidanza flywheel are 8mm wide, which is the same on an OEM flywheel (also 8mm) - the hole for the metal dowel on the pressure plate I have is only 7.7mm. Grrrr. This was after waiting forever for the bracket that holds the shifter cables onto the transmission to arrive - that part was backordered forever.

[DryBear]

Update 10-13
Things I've learned:
*Make sure you have plenty of room to be able open the front doors all the way - its a pain to try and contort yourself to get at components under the dash.

*If you are going to have your tranny out but engine still in, get an engine stand/hoist to hold up the engine, as a floor jack will slowly drop over time. :doh:

After lots of delays I've finally been able to get back to work on the swap.

It turns out that I did have the correct clutch after all - after talking with Spec support, some of the powdercoating on the pressure plate probably pooled into the holes for the dowel pins - cleaned out the excess powder coat in the holes and the clutch plate now fits.

My biggest hurdle after that was getting the auto shifter unbolted from the firewall. The hardest part is that the bolts are in the cabin side, and is buried underneath the heater/air con unit. I didn't want to yank out the hearter air con unit as I would have to rip out the whole dash, and I didn't want to deal with the refrigerant lines if it came to it either. I considered trying to just cut the plate out, but that would be a big mess, and its still a bit of a squeeze from the engine bay side with the engine still in the car. I unbolted the cruise control module and was barely able to get the bolts out using a small 12mm flex ratchet.

To do:
* Install transmission and axles
* Install clutch hydraulic line
* Re-run alarm, and the crapload of gauge/sensor wires (wires were originally passes through the hole where the master cylinder goes)

[bronxbombr]

Nice going, you making good progress.

[DOHCstunr]

Dude your ride has been down forever!
can't wait to see it back in action.

So any updates?
Projected finish date?

[boostzealot]

drybear, you manual now or what man? lol. ive been checking on this post like once a week or so cuz im wondering how much more power you're going to put down from the manual swap alone. no one seems to have done a dyno comparo before and after. im dynoing mine one more time before i throw the manual in. i should have all my parts by friday so i can start the swap the next day. i'll be the only 8g in UT with a tranny swap. so many people around here are waiting for me to do the swap. but i just want to stop pretending with this auto like i got one :lol: but really im looking for at least 20whp just from lowering my drivetrain loss.

[bronxbombr]

enuff excuses and get it done. Makes me wanna buy a 8G just to do and show you guys how easy the swap is. It just looks hard but the bark is worse than the bite

[DryBear]

Well for those of you who have actually done an *8G V6* swap - how the hell do you get the mofo back in? For four days I've tried every friggin combination of angles and whatnot but I keep getting caught on either the frame of the car where at the wheel, or on the clutch pressure plate (which is now all friggin scuffed up :evil: ). My last resort is to pull the engine out, but before I do that, if anyone has any tricks to get that shit in I'm all ears.

I do have to say everything else is should be cake once I get the transmission on, but I've been frustrated trying to wrestle the dern thing back in. So STFU unless you have anything useful to say. Sorry if I am being blunt, but I'm just tired and annoyed.

[8gV65spd]

This is going to be dangerous, but this is what I did. LOL, I had a tranny jack and that only helped to take the auto out.
I hope you have your car jacked up fairly high in the front. I put the transmission on my chest and scooted under the car. I then lifted it up carefully over the frame and dropped the shaft side at an angle by using my knees to hold the other side of the case steady.
Yes, it is dangerous and if your not physically capable don't try it.

[GOOSEY2099]

A lift comes handy in this situation, I also used a prybar

[Calipso]

A lift comes handy in this situation, I also used a prybar


You had to use alot more than a prybar to get my tranny in. :lol:

[GOOSEY2099]

Is this swap done yet?

[boostzealot]

you have to make sure that you can move the motor so you can basically line it up while its tilting down. thats how i did it but i had a jack under the motor and had the car on a lift so that i could just move the car. once i got the tranny lined up i just lowered the car onto the motor and tranny. please please please save yourself the hassle and do this with someone or with two people. its much more safe that way. hope to see it done soon. i love mine and im not even boosted yet.

[Qs]

were you able to connect your reverse light (backup lights ) and speedometer???