O2 Bypass.....think this really works???

[Eldotem]

Hey folks....I was shopping around and ran into this.....u think it's official?


http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/price/Mits...t/O2_Simulators (http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/price/Mitsubishi/Galant/Perrin/Exhaust/O2_Simulators)

[Reelax]

Hey folks....I was shopping around and ran into this.....u think it's official?
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/price/Mits...t/O2_Simulators (http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/price/Mitsubishi/Galant/Perrin/Exhaust/O2_Simulators)


i don't get the question... what do u think it's supposed to do?

[bronxbombr]

They work, not sure about that brand. I know my friend has one on his downstream and it works for him.

[Eldotem]

Reelax, I was wondering if they work and how well,.....guess I should have stated that, huh?

So does anyone know where to get a good one (reliable) or at the very least, a decent one?

[pinoyesv6]

you can get something like this

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/evo/parts/o2_simulator/o2_adapter_fr.JPG

from RRE for 20 bucks each. they don't eliminate the o2 sensor. you undo your existing o2 sensor, put this bad boy in, put the o2 sensor back in and you should be good to go. no wiring needed for the fix. just have to make sure the sensor can reach the bung.

you can also make one for 3 bucks but it takes a lil bit more work (http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=98573)

[Skillz911]

you can get something like this

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/evo/parts/o2_simulator/o2_adapter_fr.JPG

from RRE for 20 bucks each. they don't eliminate the o2 sensor. you undo your existing o2 sensor, put this bad boy in, put the o2 sensor back in and you should be good to go. no wiring needed for the fix. just have to make sure the sensor can reach the bung.

you can also make one for 3 bucks but it takes a lil bit more work (http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=98573)



Use the $3 method its not hard you just need a drill and the proper size bit, when I had my header it got rid of the SES light. Works like a charm.

[Reelax]

Reelax, I was wondering if they work and how well,.....guess I should have stated that, huh?

So does anyone know where to get a good one (reliable) or at the very least, a decent one?


well all an 02 simulator does is eliminate the check engine light (CEL) when you remove your main cat (test pipe, downpipe, headers). it doesn't, by itself give any gains in power.

the cheaper method is the space that pulls the sensor out of the direct flow of exhaust... it's more reliable (no electronics) and works just as well.

[OZ KING]

i did this on my car..u get a 18mm spark plug anti fouler (found at any auto zone, pep boys, etc.) and have a shop bore(drill) it out to 1/2 inch. unscrew ur o2 sensor from pipe, screw on the anti fouler to the o2 sensor, then resrcew both pieces back onto ur pipe... DONE.



you're welcome...lol

[airborneparainf82]

any clue on where to purchse the $20 piece? The pictures on the link for the $3 anti-fouler method arent working so I'm willing to just pay a little more to get something ready to put on.

also, this would go in the hole for the 2nd 02 sensor correct?

[Fishboy55]

i did this on my car..u get a 18mm spark plug anti fouler (found at any auto zone, pep boys, etc.) and have a shop bore(drill) it out to 1/2 inch. unscrew ur o2 sensor from pipe, screw on the anti fouler to the o2 sensor, then resrcew both pieces back onto ur pipe... DONE.



you're welcome...lol

No need to thank you dickweed. If you had clicked on Pinoy's link (work) you would have seen the tutorial. Have a glorious day and remember, reading is fundamental.

[Fishboy55]

any clue on where to purchse the $20 piece? The pictures on the link for the $3 anti-fouler method arent working so I'm willing to just pay a little more to get something ready to put on.

also, this would go in the hole for the 2nd 02 sensor correct?
http:\\www.RoadRaceEngineering.com

And yea Sarge it would go in your downstream sensor to ensure that the downstream never reads higher than the upstream. Otherwise CEL triggers.

[guynlidia2006]

so does the o2 sensor still do its job with this installed?

[guynlidia2006]

does it?

[Fishboy55]

does it?
What's the O2 sensor's job? If you can answer that, you've answered your own question....

[guynlidia2006]

how could someone trick the computer to thinking the main o2 sensors are doing their job... i just dont want the sensor to tell the computer to add fuel... me and my friend are making a hydrogen add on and it burns a little hotter and the ecu thinks its running lean and adds fuel... so how would i trick it?

[GOOSEY2099]

asking questions like that and trying to make hydrogen anything will only blow your ass up!!! Wake up and read something like howstuffworks.com

[Fishboy55]

Don't waste your breath Roman. Remember the projector headlight post...He's not listening.

If something blows up, at least it'll be in Broward County and not near either of us.

[seth98esT]

how could someone trick the computer to thinking the main o2 sensors are doing their job... i just dont want the sensor to tell the computer to add fuel... me and my friend are making a hydrogen add on and it burns a little hotter and the ecu thinks its running lean and adds fuel... so how would i trick it?

You cant 'trick' the ECU into thinking the first o2 sensor is doing its job ... because its job is dependent on the weather and throttle %. You cant 'predict' those two things. Only way to get away from the first narrowband o2 sensor is to install a wideband o2 sensor that can simulate a narrowband output, but you still have to run a total of 1 o2 sensor, no matter what.

You are way in over your head, you need to understand how the ECU works. There are two different types of 'modes' the ECU will be in at all times, Open loop and Closed loop. In Open loop, the ECU relies on the o2 sensor for input so it knows how much fuel to add. Open loop is anything that is not WOT. In closed loop(WOT, anyhting over 75-80% throttle), the ECU switches to Closed loop. In closed loop, the ECU relys on a predefined set of fuel maps to know when to add fuel at each RPM. The only problem with this is when you start modding and inducing more air, these predefined maps need more fuel to be added. Thats where piggyback fuel systems come into play(SAFC, eManage, ect) or full standalones. The piggybacks modify the a/f signal to the ECU and 'trick' it to add more or less fuel.

I dont understand what you are trying to do with hydrogen. Taken from another forum:

Nitrous Oxide is an oxidizer, it does not burn on it's own. When in the engine, the piston creating the compression in the combustion chamber reaches temperatures in excess of the 525 degrees Fahrenheit needed to separate the nitrogen from the oxygen, and it's the oxygen that actually helps the burn to create more power in the engine.

If you use hydrogen, in the same types of quantities that you would use nitrous, you WILL cause serious engine damage.

[airborneparainf82]

Well, although I didn't order the product featured in the OP, I did order another Check Engine Light fix from Ebay and everything works perfectly after eliminating my pre-cat. Just thought it post an update! :)

[4g64terror]

just came across this thread...im gonna go buy the anti-foulers tommorow...you only need one right? and when u guys say drill them out, you are drilling out the hole in the center of it to 1/2" right?

[airborneparainf82]

dude just go on ebay... they are ridiculously cheap.... just search "check engine light fix"

[proteusx301]

You cant 'trick' the ECU into thinking the first o2 sensor is doing its job ... because its job is dependent on the weather and throttle %. You cant 'predict' those two things. Only way to get away from the first narrowband o2 sensor is to install a wideband o2 sensor that can simulate a narrowband output, but you still have to run a total of 1 o2 sensor, no matter what.

You are way in over your head, you need to understand how the ECU works. There are two different types of 'modes' the ECU will be in at all times, Open loop and Closed loop. In Open loop, the ECU relies on the o2 sensor for input so it knows how much fuel to add. Open loop is anything that is not WOT. In closed loop(WOT, anyhting over 75-80% throttle), the ECU switches to Closed loop. In closed loop, the ECU relys on a predefined set of fuel maps to know when to add fuel at each RPM. The only problem with this is when you start modding and inducing more air, these predefined maps need more fuel to be added. Thats where piggyback fuel systems come into play(SAFC, eManage, ect) or full standalones. The piggybacks modify the a/f signal to the ECU and 'trick' it to add more or less fuel.

I dont understand what you are trying to do with hydrogen. Taken from another forum:

Not trying to be an ass, but you got open and closed loop switched around.

[4g64terror]

as far as this fix is concerned, do you take ONE anti fouler, drill it out and screw your 02 into it or do you take one, drill it out, screw ANOTHER anti-fouler into it and THEN screw your 02 in?

[proteusx301]

drill out one so the sensor fits in it. screw the sensor+fouler into the second undrilled fouler, and screw all three into the 02 bung.

[guynlidia2006]

Don't waste your breath Roman. Remember the projector headlight post...He's not listening.

If something blows up, at least it'll be in Broward County and not near either of us.

honestly it is not a waste of breath, i heard everyones point of view, i just wanted to try something that worked in theroy to me. Well the theroy didnt really work how i wanted it too... so I am going to re do it. Should I of listened to you guys, yes. But I am hardheaded. I speak my mind and like to try things my way, but when they fail i'll admit it... But sometimes I figure out some cool shit... I mean think about it... all innovation faces negativity... know what i mean... So after I do my plugs and wires (damn intake manifold)
I am going to tackle my head lights... I dont have trouble seeing but it isnt anywhere near where it could be at when done right...