My High-Boost Engine Build - 6G72

[WarmAndSCSI]

With my current block trashed after some bad detonation, I decided it was a good time to throw a few grand into a new block that can stand the power. I've been taking some pictures of the progress and will post any updates. I hope you enjoy :D

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002233.jpg
Some pistons and rods... I was numbering them until I noticed something strange. Let's take a closer look at the 4th rod from the left...

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002234.jpg
Yep, she's a goner. Thanks for hyrdolocking your old block, boostzealot :lol: I foresee new forged rods in this new block...

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002238.jpg
The block. Still needs some more disassembly.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002236.jpg
Deck surface looks OK.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002237.jpg
Cylinder walls and rod journals looking good too.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002241.jpg
Ooh, a crankshaft. Shiny! PS: this puppy is FORGED (stock).

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002242.jpg
Water pump, oil pump, and rear main seal- need to check clearances on the oil pump before I reinstall it.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002253.jpg
Misc. engine parts - all of this has to go back on.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002246.jpg
Some new(ish) heads.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002244.jpg
Had to put the rocker arms back on this one.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002247.jpg
It's a block! Kind of heavy even when it's empty.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002250.jpg
Nice cylinder wall!

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002251.jpg
The mains...

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002252.jpg
This was the hardest part - crank pulleys are a BITCH to take off with the engine out of the car (unable to use the starter trick) and without air tools.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002254.jpg
Some new parts. 8)

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002255.jpg
Clevite tri-metal bearings... thrust washers, main bearings, rod bearings - all stock size (thanks to 3SX for stocking all of these)

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002257.jpg
8 heat range iridium plugs (thank you Summit Racing for having those in stock)

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002259.jpg
And some 3SX forged rods - these guys are probably good for 900 WHP. Got them on sale! 8)

[WarmAndSCSI]

CURRENT STATUS: The block and components have been dropped off at Pro Machine Shop here in town. They are going to do a bore and hone (40 over), deck resurface, full rotating assembly balance, and then file the rings. They are just waiting for me to drop off the pistons and rings (CP pistons and Sealed Power rings from Tearstone - thanks to Russ Sanderlin for having these).

Only thing holding up the build is the fact that Pro Machine doesn't have the small bobweights for V6 crank balancing, so they're going to have to borrow some. The block should be done by Friday the 26th regardless.

[dknight3]

sounds expensive.
are you gunna go turbo or stick with your supercharger?

[WarmAndSCSI]

sounds expensive.
are you gunna go turbo or stick with your supercharger?

I'm keeping it all under 3 grand, but it'll be worth it.

The supercharger setup is staying around for a little while, but I plan on learning how to weld and making my own turbo setup. Can you say GT40R? :twisted:

[boostzealot]

man holy shit are we going to bring the pain from utah here in a couple of months. i cant wait till the 74's CP's get ordered and then we will both be making some stupid numbers. i forsee the two highest horsepower galants driving all the way to MOD 08. those who didnt pay attention last year will be blown away by the next. :twisted:

[WarmAndSCSI]

man holy shit are we going to bring the pain from utah here in a couple of months. i cant wait till the 74's CP's get ordered and then we will both be making some stupid numbers. i forsee the two highest horsepower galants driving all the way to MOD 08. those who didnt pay attention last year will be blown away by the next. :twisted:

Indeed. My car is a very expensive, very shiny, very heavy paperweight for a week or so, though.

[DOHCstunr]

go 6g74 or go home.

[WarmAndSCSI]

go 6g74 or go home.

I like my rod ratio just fine. Hello 8500 RPM rev limiter :twisted:

[DOHCstunr]

i guess thats fair for a fwd

[dknight3]

sweeeeeet!!!!!! i might be there next year. of course my engine will most likely still be stock.. :(

[bronxbombr]

Doin it Way BIg!

[galant3jl12's]

Ya you guys are doin shit I can only dream about. Sounds good keep us updated.

[WarmAndSCSI]

UPDATE: Started cleaning one of the heads. There are some knicks in the sealing surfaces (around the cylinder bore), so they are going to need to be resurfaced. Here are some pics:

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/HeadBefore.jpg
Before

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/HeadCleaning.jpg
Cleaned up the cylinder bore areas a bit.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/HeadChamberCleaning.jpg
Started on this combustion chamber.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/HeadChamberDone2.jpg
And it's clean.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/HeadChamberDone.jpg
Only 5 more to go - carbon deposits are a BITCH. :D

[boostzealot]

go 6g74 or go home.

leave that to me. :twisted:

[underated]

looks good with the power you were making before it will crazy with a full build up keep the pics comming... i decided to toss out the all motor idea for my build and bought me a shinny new gt35r lol

you and boostzealot are kings of the v6's :twisted:

[boostzealot]

you and boostzealot are kings of the v6's :twisted:

8) i like that.
good buy on the 35R. what are its stats? im still gonna go with a gt3582r. i like its spool characteristics and im sure i can spool it nice and keep it in boost to redline without getting out of the efficiency island. oh and our cars are so fast because of the ignorant ass drivers in utah make it scary to drive so its nice to have something that will get out of the way and be loud enough to scare most of them. :twisted:

[underated]

i got the gt35r with the divided t3 flange its got t a v-band clamp .78a/r, i got it with the ported shroud compressor housing the one with all the holes around the inlet

more pics WarmAndSCSI lol... i know exactly what you mean about the crank pulley i didnt mine without air tools and on an engine stand

do you guys work on your car on base?

[boostzealot]

its funny you should ask that because we think its kinda funny. we do all our work in tim's garage. my motor swap, his supercharger, his engine build and even his tranny swap. i have only used the base for doing my tranny swap and converting to the evo brakes. other than that its all done at the house.
tim hows my car? i miss her already, is that wrong?

[underated]

ok ok lol from the pics you guys post they all look like they are in the same place so i was just wondering if it was on base, then i started wondering why you werent using a lift... his garage is the spot then lol

[WarmAndSCSI]

its funny you should ask that because we think its kinda funny. we do all our work in tim's garage. my motor swap, his supercharger, his engine build and even his tranny swap. i have only used the base for doing my tranny swap and converting to the evo brakes. other than that its all done at the house.
tim hows my car? i miss her already, is that wrong?

Metal shifter knob = too cold... I've got to detail it for you before you get back - it's the least I can do. She runs well, though. Except fucking 5th gear. :lol:

I'll post some pictures of the pistons and the current state of the block when I go to relay those to the machine shop.

[duh2150]

take the heads to a michine shop, they will flatten the head, clean in intake and exhuast ports make it looks brand new, if you got money they will do the valves and shit and make them new thast what im gonan do.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Take the heads to a machine shop, they will flatten the head, clean the intake and exhuast ports - make it look brand new; if you got money they will do the valves and "shit" and make them new. That's what I'm gonna do.

That's much better - yes, I know the machine shop can do this stuff. I think you meant a "valve job" by "do the valves and shit and make them new." This involves cleaning, grinding, polishing the valves and regrinding their seats.

[Qs]

just out of curiosity, how much hp & torque are u hoping to get???

[underated]

are you upgrading anything in the heads? i know cams are mad expensive for the 6g72 but it would be a nice compliment for the SC and the bottom end build... i cant wait to see what you put down with all these upgrades

oh yah what are you using for fuel management?

[WarmAndSCSI]

No upgrades to the heads yet - I can swap cams and valve springs in a few hours if I ever want to. They stock heads flow plenty for any sane amount of power.

I'm hoping to put down around 400 WHP at altitude (I live at 4400' in Utah). That's roughly 484 at sea level. BTW, maximum torque is a silly measurement - what matters is the placement of your powerband relative to your gearing. I want to make at least 300 WHP above 5500 RPM so when I shift at 7250 RPM, I fall back into a good amount of power.

I'm using an E-Manage Ultimate for fuel and timing control.

[WarmAndSCSI]

500th post

w00t

Actually I hit quote rather than edit :oops:

[WarmAndSCSI]

UPDATE: Received some new 40 over CP Pistons. Dropped them off at the machine shop. I've got some pics of my cleaned block, the new pistons, and another surprise.

The only block components left to receive are the various gaskets and freeze plugs.

I'm at work, but I'll post the pics as soon as I get home.

Thanks to boostzealot for the use of his camera to document this build! 8)

[WarmAndSCSI]

UPDATE: Forgot to mention that I dropped the heads off at Pro Machine to get milled. Their prices are pretty fair for their level of expertise and, besides, I want a perfect seal :)

PIC UPDATE:

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002268.jpg
This is a pretty big box... what could it be?

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002269.jpg
Some 22 mm wrist pins. Shiny.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002271.jpg
And six of these! All too familiar since the remains of the stock-bore sized ones are in my current block. Stupid ring gap.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002270.jpg
Another angle. Beautiful CP forged aluminum pistons. Also included were Sealed Power rings and some spiralocks for the wrist pins.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002272.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002273.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002274.jpg
Nice and clean block at the machine shop. It probably needs to be painted black again. Or maybe orange :shock:

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/rods.jpg
This was the best I could save this photo... Terrible lighting. But what you're seeing is one of my 3SX rods (left) compared to a Carrillo h-beam rod from a 1100 WHP 2JZ-GTE Supra (right). As you may already know, Carrillo rods are regarded as some of the best. This rod is clearly destroyed as you can see the bow circled in red. What's amazing is that the cheaper 3SX rod is MUCH better constructed. The guys at the machine shop pointed out that the beam walls are thicker, and wider! Imagine that. Thanks 3SX!

[boostzealot]

so sexy. man i cant wait for the first crank up.

[fatal1]

wow man you guys are both doing big things up there in utah cant wait to see it done, good luck

[boostzealot]

heres one of my goals for my build. next year for MOD i want to drive it all the way there and all the way back no problem, but the major idea of it all is to shut those evos down. how does that sound tim? next year we both compete in the dyno competition and post some of the highest numbers on pump gas, then knock another wall down by throwing c16 in the mix! :twisted: im shooting for 550whp.

[SkylineG1]

heres one of my goals for my build. next year for MOD i want to drive it all the way there and all the way back no problem, but the major idea of it all is to shut those evos down. how does that sound tim? next year we both compete in the dyno competition and post some of the highest numbers on pump gas, then knock another wall down by throwing c16 in the mix! :twisted: im shooting for 550whp.

Hey if you guys are gonna do it on pump gas then use some of Utah's gas & not the crappy stuff from CA.

[underated]

im looking forward to the outcome of your build even while im doing mine haha just came out of the garage to see if you put up any new pics lol

[WarmAndSCSI]

heres one of my goals for my build. next year for MOD i want to drive it all the way there and all the way back no problem, but the major idea of it all is to shut those evos down. how does that sound tim? next year we both compete in the dyno competition and post some of the highest numbers on pump gas, then knock another wall down by throwing c16 in the mix! :twisted: im shooting for 550whp.

Haha, 550 is no problem. I want to win the damn thing next year - 700 WHP here I come. :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: These internals can do it :P


Hey if you guys are gonna do it on pump gas then use some of Utah's gas & not the crappy stuff from CA.

We have crappy 91 octane here too - high altitude allows for it. At least it's not oxygenated.

[WarmAndSCSI]

UPDATE: I decided to take care some of the dirty work. Pulled the front and rear main seals from the oil pump and rear housing respectively. This is a pain in the ass without the right tools, so invest in some seal/bearing drifts if you are to attempt this. I punched out the front main seal from behind through the oil pump. I'm sure it's easier when you're working on seals that haven't been sitting forever.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002279.jpg
An empty rear main seal housing.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002281.jpg
And another seal removed.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002283.jpg
The culprits.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002282.jpg
And the tools of the trade. Thank you cheap Checker tools. 8) And no, the Plastigage is not for removing seals. :lol:

[boostzealot]

it seems like checker and harbor freight ftw on this build. man so far checker has dominated with prices on anything we have need thus far. is the car behaving for you? im still waiting on my short shifter to get here from orlando :roll: but i really cant wait to start doing this to my 74!

[WarmAndSCSI]

so sexy. man i cant wait for the first crank up.
A little off topic, but that will be the most critical moment for this new engine.

It's really, really, really important to prime your engine before starting it the first time. The easiest way to do this is to crank the engine with the crank angle sensor unplugged until the oil light goes off - this is a pretty good indicator that you have built a good film of oil on all of the friction parts in the engine (piston skirts, bearings, etc.). Then, and only then, should you start the engine for the first time by plugging the CAS back in.

Let the engine come up to operating temperature. Check for leaks and check your oil pressure. Once the engine is warm, get ready for some hard pulls. The thing to keep in mind is not to let the engine stay at any particular RPM for too long.

Start by accelerating normally - shifting at 3k RPM at half throttle. Do NOT pussyfoot this new engine. Let the car slow itself down by keeping the clutch out during deceleration. Make sure to do a LOT of engine braking during your first drive; it helps remove the excess material from the cylinder walls. After that one moderate pull, try to do the same 2 more times. Then, go through 2nd or 3rd at 75% throttle up until 4000-5000 RPM. Let the engine brake the car again. Again, try to do this two more times. Finally, do three full throttle pulls from 2000 to redline.

This will get your rings about 80% sealed - the next 20% will take a few hundred miles. However, make sure to drain your oil after the first 20 miles and refill with conventional non-synthetic for the first 1500 miles.

I learned most of this from http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm.

[WarmAndSCSI]

it seems like checker and harbor freight ftw on this build. man so far checker has dominated with prices on anything we have need thus far. is the car behaving for you? im still waiting on my short shifter to get here from orlando :roll: but i really cant wait to start doing this to my 74!

Yah, your car is so much smoother than mine. It stlll needs some hardcore tuning, though. Since I have it for a week, I'll see what kind of magic I can work on your fuel trims.

[underated]

i always prime the engines i build by using a drill with a socket on the oil pump sprocket without the timing belt on right before it goes in the car you'll know its good when you see oil come out of the lifters

:smt023 for doing all the work yourself

[WarmAndSCSI]

i always prime the engines i build by using a drill with a socket on the oil pump sprocket without the timing belt on right before it goes in the car you'll know its good when you see oil come out of the lifters I wonder how long that oil film lasts. I'll probably do that and then crank it until the oil light goes off too.

:smt023 for doing all the work yourself
Thanks, I try to learn as much as I can by doing... I don't own any machine shop equipment yet though... someday.

[boostzealot]

not to mention the welder so the custom kits can come screaming out of that garage.

[6G72gearhead]

On the engine break in, I'd throw down a hard shift as well on those redline pulls. I generally keep the rpms around 3k for its first 10-15 minutes of running.

[underated]

i always prime the engines i build by using a drill with a socket on the oil pump sprocket without the timing belt on right before it goes in the car you'll know its good when you see oil come out of the lifters I wonder how long that oil film lasts. I'll probably do that and then crank it until the oil light goes off too.

:smt023 for doing all the work yourself
Thanks, I try to learn as much as I can by doing... I don't own any machine shop equipment yet though... someday.

what i usually do it pour my 4qts in though the top of the motor with the valve cover off and coat everything so between the assembly lube and engine oil then the rotating of the oil pump it works pretty well


oh yah dont forget to bleed the lifters if your reusing your old ones wouldn't want to bend any valve on that beautiful motor

need a welder too that would be alot of fun i wanna make a custom strut bar lol

[WarmAndSCSI]

i always prime the engines i build by using a drill with a socket on the oil pump sprocket without the timing belt on right before it goes in the car you'll know its good when you see oil come out of the lifters I wonder how long that oil film lasts. I'll probably do that and then crank it until the oil light goes off too.

:smt023 for doing all the work yourself
Thanks, I try to learn as much as I can by doing... I don't own any machine shop equipment yet though... someday.

what i usually do it pour my 4qts in though the top of the motor with the valve cover off and coat everything so between the assembly lube and engine oil then the rotating of the oil pump it works pretty well


oh yah dont forget to bleed the lifters if your reusing your old ones wouldn't want to bend any valve on that beautiful motor

need a welder too that would be alot of fun i wanna make a custom strut bar lol

Thanks for the tips. I'm going to pick up a gallon or two of diesel to refill these lifters. Just gonna follow the service manual. I'm not sure if we bend valves on the 6G72 if the lifters aren't bleeded... the service manual just talks about cleaning them if you take them out.

[WarmAndSCSI]

not to mention the welder so the custom kits can come screaming out of that garage.

And by screaming you mean two. :lol:

It's going to take me a looong time to get proficient at MIG, but I should be done by the time you get back.

Should I go ahead and buy some T4 and 3" V-band flanges? I know that's going to be the config for my GT4088R.

[mapid145]

bro.. u are the man.. i have never seen a build like this where its almost step by step..

im actually learning alot of the internals just by reading and looking at the pics..

thanks lol

[WarmAndSCSI]

bro.. u are the man.. i have never seen a build like this where its almost step by step..

im actually learning alot of the internals just by reading and looking at the pics..

thanks lol

I'm really glad it's useful for some people! 8)

I'm going to try to compile a list of EVERYTHING I've purchased for this build along with part numbers and whatnot. Should be useful for those looking to do this in the future. I'd estimate I'm saving around $5000 doing this myself - a race build like this would be at least $8000 just to drop it off at a speed shop and let them go at it.

[WarmAndSCSI]

UPDATE: Remember kids, a good machine shop needs your flywheel and crankshaft pulley to do an engine balance. Lucky for me, the 6G72 is internally balanced so I only had to give them one of the components so they could use it for the balancing (has something to do with mounting a component of the reflective balancing system). Taking that flywheel off would have been a pain.

Total price for machine work: $865. That includes all the block, crankshaft, and head work I'm getting done. V6's are expensive :shock:

[Phil]

looking good man. Can't wait to see the final product

[underated]

yah man machine work labor is expensive i just realized that too :shock: lol

[WarmAndSCSI]

yah man machine work labor is expensive i just realized that too :shock: lol

I justify it by reminding myself these are the BEST engine builders in Utah. They build engines for the local high-HP Supra guys (1100-1400 WHP). I'm sure they'll do a bang up job on my block.

Any way, I just bought some basic stuff: antiseize, fuel injector cleaner, copper spray-a-gasket, and an engine hoist. This 2-ton hoist was on sale for $120 :shock: It's foldable for easy storage. 8) I'm sure it'll appear in several of the upcoming pictures. I plan to pull this block during the week so I'm ready for the install this weekend.

I received my Fel-Pro PermaTorqueMLS head gaskets and a Fel-Pro water pump gasket today from Rock Auto. The larger part of that order comes tomorrow. I had to order the oil filter bracket gasket from the dealer since Fel-Pro doesn't sell that individually.

Tomorrow I drop off the freeze plugs at the machine shop so they can put those back in. I expect the block will be bored and the heads will probably be surfaced. I think there is a total of about 12 hours of machine work to be done on the block and heads, so hopefully they can fit that into 5 days. It would be a big disappointment to have to wait until next week.

Once I'm done with the build, I'll post a list of absolutely everything I had to buy (including services) for everybody's future reference.

[projectGTZ]

Good on you!!!

[WarmAndSCSI]

CURRENT STAUTS: Just got off the phone with the machine shop. They're really concerned with getting the balance right on the crankshaft, but I let them know the Fidanza flywheel is just solid, uniform aluminum. Balancing the engine internally shouldn't be a problem.

What's done so far: heads are disassembled and resurfaced and block is honed and decked. All that's left is for them to gap the rings for me and balance the crankshaft. I'm going in after work to drop the freeze plugs off and check everything out - I'll have lots pictures and more details. Still, I'm very pleased that the whole short block is almost done after only 2 days of them being able to work on it.

[WarmAndSCSI]

CURRENT STAUTS: The machine shop is almost done! Things left for them to do: install the freeze plugs, gap the rings, and chamfering the oil holes on the crank.

When I went in yesterday, they had the crankshaft polished and balanced out. I've got some pictures of the crank on their balancing machine:

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002285.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002286.jpg

NEW PICS:

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002287.jpg
Getting ready to pull the engine - supercharger pulled.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002289.jpg
And stay out, bitch! - I wish... Turbo setup coming soon. :lol:

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002290.jpg
Plenum separated, coolant hoses disconnected, and wiring harness moved aside.

I got tired and gave up for the night. :cry: I should have it pulled tonight, though. New engine should be on the stand tonight and in the engine bay Saturday! Sunday is break-in day - I'll annoy all the damn Mormons with my 21 lbs of boost exhaust while they're in temple. :lol:

[WarmAndSCSI]

UPDATE: Machine shop is finished! I'm picking up the engine after work. Will post lots and lots of pics of the engine assembly. :D The one extra day to get this done will be nice - I was expecting the machine work to be done tomorrow!

[laxinwarrior]

Fucking awesome man ...Congrats on the build, you are going to have one hell of a beast. :twisted:

[WarmAndSCSI]

UPDATE: Well, I got everything to the house and started putting the block back together. I have the crankshaft in, with bearing clearances checked, all 6 piston-rod assemblies put together, and 3 pistons in the block.

PICS:

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002292.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002293.jpg
The new block - ver nice! How much? :D

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002294.jpg
Main bearings in the block.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002295.jpg
Main bearings in the main cap.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002296.jpg
Crankshaft in the block ready for bearing clearances to be checked.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002299.jpg
Main cap installed.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002298.jpg
Check out the polish on these journals - had the oil holes chamfered too!

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002301.jpg
And 6 of these things to put together.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002302.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002304.jpg
Here's one done. Actually, the hard part in this is putting the Spiro Locks in to hold the wrist pin in place. 4 of these locks for each piston - ugh.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002305.jpg
Which would you prefer?

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002306.jpg
All 6 done!

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002308.jpg
Look, 2 rod caps installed!

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002309.jpg
And the two corresponding pistons. :D

That's all for tonight!

[komodo]

This thread got me entertained for far to long tonight (just read it all) and now it's 2:17a! Shiiiiiiiet I got school and working early in the morning tomorrow! Damn youuuuu and your interesting-ness of the build-up. =o

[SkylineG1]

man this build up is sick.

[WarmAndSCSI]

I'll take some pictures of the actual piston install process (since I have 3 left). I rushed through the other 3 without taking pictures because I was so excited :P

[underated]

damn looking good so far and its moving along quickly too i'm still waiting on my gaskets and seals from mitsubishi :evil:

[WarmAndSCSI]

damn looking good so far and its moving along quickly too i'm still waiting on my gaskets and seals from mitsubishi :evil:

I waited on Mitsubishi last time. This time I'm just using Fel-Pro gaskets; supposedly their PermaTorqueMLS head gaskets are the shit.

[Boss254]

UPDATE: Remember kids, a good machine shop needs your flywheel and crankshaft pulley to do an engine balance. Lucky for me, the 6G72 is internally balanced so I only had to give them one of the components so they could use it for the balancing (has something to do with mounting a component of the reflective balancing system). Taking that flywheel off would have been a pain.

Total price for machine work: $865. That includes all the block, crankshaft, and head work I'm getting done. V6's are expensive :shock:


I'm glad you posted that up. Now I know I'll have to buy the fidanza before hand.

That $865 is cheap compared to what some of these places down here in Texas are charging.[/quote]

[WarmAndSCSI]

UPDATE: Got almost everything pulled from the engine. Coolant lines, oil lines, axles, engine mount, front roll stop and cross member, plenum, alternator, A/C compressor, etc.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002311.jpg

As promised, here are some pictures of the piston installation process:

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002312.jpg
Remember this guy?

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002313.jpg
Install half of the rod bearing into the rod big end and lube it up (I'm using Clevite Bearing Assembly Lube).

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002314.jpg
This is where the piston/rod is going. Cylinder #2

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002315.jpg
Drop the piston/rod in the cylinder and install the ring compressor. Tighten until rings are compressed.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002316.jpg
Press down on the ring compressor (not shown), and tap the piston into the block using a wooden handle.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002317.jpg
It's in :D

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002318.jpg
Align the rod big end with the rod journal on the crankshaft.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002320.jpg
Install the other half of the rod bearing into the rod cap and lube it up.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002322.jpg
Apply anti-seize lubricant to the rod bolts.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002324.jpg
Install the rod bolts.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002325.jpg
Tighten the rod bolts to 45 ft-lb (this torque value is only for ARP rod bolts, not OEM Mitsubishi nuts; which are 38 ft-lb IIRC).

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002326.jpg
All done!

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002327.jpg
And that was the last one! 8)

[boostzealot]

man after seeing this thing tonight i just cant wait until december (thats when my build starts folks). see you in the morning, lets take our time to make sure everything goes back together the right way and perfectly. see you tomorrow man.

[Boss254]

Man that is lookin too sweet. I can't wait to get mine's to this point.

[duh2150]

paint the block already! lol

[WarmAndSCSI]

paint the block already! lol

That would be easy if there weren't 10000000 sealing surfaces I needed to protect. I didn't pay the machine shop to clean/deck this block for nothing.

[duh2150]

throw some duct tape over it in some spots and then degrease it and presure wash and then do that again, and it should be shiney, and then hit it with some paint, make it look prurtty

[lonestar22]

paint the block already! lol

That would be easy if there weren't 10000000 sealing surfaces I needed to protect. I didn't pay the machine shop to clean/deck this block for nothing.

why would he paint the block? that would be uber ghey

function over form

[underated]

sorry to jack your thread man

But damn i guess call me ghey then... but its ok i'll be ghey with my fully built black block that took all of 20mins to paint lol

function + form > * :lol:

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b159/4G64T/DSCN2841.jpg


Continue with the badass v6 build

[mtcavity1]

Very nice work! :smt023 I could not even imagine the output of the engine/superchager after you compleate the re-build.

Thanks for all the photos also, I've been checking it out often! :D

[duh2150]

painting the block makes everything easyer to clean later, cleaner the better, you dotn want a bad ass engine running liek shit becasue oil and shit flying off the engine int othe intake and crap.

id paint it.. just my opinion, id do it while i could.

[xd_01]

paint the block already! lol

That would be easy if there weren't 10000000 sealing surfaces I needed to protect. I didn't pay the machine shop to clean/deck this block for nothing.

why would he paint the block? that would be uber ghey

function over form

maybe so it wont rust?

[underated]

^^^ thats why i painted mine

[duh2150]

the block would be fine, its the clean part its really about way easr to get off, im gonan stop posting in this bad ass thread, i feel like im puting him down or somthing,... i donno, keep up the good work.

[boostzealot]

wait until you see what we got done in two days! man this car is going to be supreme. :wink:

[underated]

awww man the suspense lol

[WarmAndSCSI]

awww man the suspense lol

I'll post pictures once I get the car started and broken in 8)

[duh2150]

yeah we better see them too lol

[WarmAndSCSI]

So, for those of you wondering what happened, I got the car started (have plenty of new pics, but I'm not in the mood to post any - check my PhotoBucket if you want). Shortly after breaking it in with boostzealot, I wrapped the drive belt around the timing cog on the way to work (crankshaft pulley came loose because it wasn't seated well). I jumped 5 teeth and bent 12 intake valves. I'm replacing those valves this weekend.

So far, I've pulled 12 valves from my old heads - 3 were bent, the rest were perfect. I ordered 3 replacements from Sealed Power - they'll be at Checker tomorrow to pick up. Now it's just a matter of installing the new(er) non-bent valves and starting the car back up. :?

[Qs]

damn...

[underated]

awwww man thats crazy i know you'll have it up and running soon this was the quickest build ive seen lol

BTW i use blue loctite on EVERY bolt just cuz im paranoid like that

[WarmAndSCSI]

awwww man thats crazy i know you'll have it up and running soon this was the quickest build ive seen lol

BTW i use blue loctite on EVERY bolt just cuz im paranoid like that

This crank bolt was covered in Loctite, but it still worked itself out due to a bad wobble :? My 3 new valves should be here tomorrow. I just need those and a new timing belt and I'll be set. I inspected the valve guides on the bent valves off the old heads and they were still okay, so I suspect the same is the case for the heads on the engine.

[Stewi]

awwww man thats crazy i know you'll have it up and running soon this was the quickest build ive seen lol

BTW i use blue loctite on EVERY bolt just cuz im paranoid like that

This crank bolt was covered in Loctite, but it still worked itself out due to a bad wobble :? My 3 new valves should be here tomorrow. I just need those and a new timing belt and I'll be set. I inspected the valve guides on the bent valves off the old heads and they were still okay, so I suspect the same is the case for the heads on the engine.


LOL forget blue loctite. Anything like a crank bolt gets the strongest loctite they sell.

[underated]

yah i use the red for the crank bolt i just didnt feel like typeing it out at the time but i guess i should have cuz im typing it now lol

[WarmAndSCSI]

So far tonight, I got one head pulled, all intake valves removed, exhaust valves leak checked, and the new intake valves lapped to the seats. I've got to run to Checker tomorrow to return this valve spring compressor that I rented (I ended up buying my own because their rental doesn't work on our heads) and get some new valve stem seals.

I'm working at a pretty good pace - I think I can have both heads put back together before dinner tomorrow.

[underated]

nice work i cant wait to see it done

[WarmAndSCSI]

I'm almost done - just taking a break. Head bolts are a bitch :lol: Got the heads back on, timing done, lower intake on, distributor back in. Just need to throw the headers, the plenum, and intake piping back on. So close 8)

[Qs]

oooo im so excited

just seing our G with power is really really....


erotic :wink: :mrgreen:


i cant wait for my g have some POWER!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

[JDM4G64T]

The suspense is killing us.....lol. Good work so far!!!!! It's nice to see that fellow G owners on here post stuff like this to give others ideas, walk-throughs, and motivation to get stuff like this done to their cars. :D Looking forward to seeing a successful completion update. Standby for 4G63t this holiday season in my G. No more 4 cyl for me........ :twisted:

[WarmAndSCSI]

Well, she runs. I do have to tear off the timing belt again soon to replace this broken timing cog - the pin to align/hold the crank pulley sheared off. Got a spare though :) For now, lots of high strength threadlocker will hold it together. I tried it last night but only gave it a few minutes to cure - it's had almost 12 hours now and should hold up a lot better.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Good news! The car is running excellent. Compression is developing nicely - 160 PSI across all front bank cylinders. I expect that'll go up another 15 PSI while breaking in - only 80 miles so far on the car.

The only problem right now is a stall when falling to idle - I've always had this problem though. It's purely tuning related. Could just be my BISS (Basic Idle Set Screw).

[JDM4G64T]

Was gonna mention that too....lol. You could just raise the idle just a lil to compensate for the stalling.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Was gonna mention that too....lol. You could just raise the idle just a lil to compensate for the stalling.

I had the idle raised before all of this - I figured that with a completely balanced lower end that I could drop it back down to stock. I was probably right - I just realized my plenum ground (that goes to the firewall) isn't bolted on :oops:

[underated]

good job on getting it done... pics and videos or im gonna be sad lol

[WarmAndSCSI]

Yeah, she's running well. I need to get some Loctite 660 to fix the keyway on the supercharger again, but everything else is mechanically sound.

I think I'm still getting false knock between 3000-4000 RPM - I was when I first rebuilt the engine and then after the valve swap. I might just get a conservative tune on the car and then unplug the sensor. I'm not going to be getting any catastrophic knock with the winter air temperatures here in Utah.

On a side note, I'll get some pictures and videos when I'm feeling up to it. Boostzealot called me a few hours ago and told me that his G is totalled. Fucking idiot ass H2 in Vegas. I'll let him tell his story if he wants to, but I'm seriously just as pissed as he probably is right now. A lot of my spare time went into building and tuning his car :cry:

[glantv699]

On a side note, I'll get some pictures and videos when I'm feeling up to it. Boostzealot called me a few hours ago and told me that his G is totalled. Fucking idiot ass H2 in Vegas. I'll let him tell his story if he wants to, but I'm seriously just as pissed as he probably is right now. A lot of my spare time went into building and tuning his car :cry:

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH :smt089

[QnzMostWanted]

On a side note, I'll get some pictures and videos when I'm feeling up to it. Boostzealot called me a few hours ago and told me that his G is totalled. Fucking idiot ass H2 in Vegas. I'll let him tell his story if he wants to, but I'm seriously just as pissed as he probably is right now. A lot of my spare time went into building and tuning his car :cry:

WTF!!! another G down :(

[Stewi]

Yeah, she's running well. I need to get some Loctite 660 to fix the keyway on the supercharger again, but everything else is mechanically sound.

I think I'm still getting false knock between 3000-4000 RPM - I was when I first rebuilt the engine and then after the valve swap. I might just get a conservative tune on the car and then unplug the sensor. I'm not going to be getting any catastrophic knock with the winter air temperatures here in Utah.

On a side note, I'll get some pictures and videos when I'm feeling up to it. Boostzealot called me a few hours ago and told me that his G is totalled. Fucking idiot ass H2 in Vegas. I'll let him tell his story if he wants to, but I'm seriously just as pissed as he probably is right now. A lot of my spare time went into building and tuning his car :cry:

Congrats on your build, sucks about Boostzealot tho.

I know exactly what your talking about with it stalling while coming down in the revs. I just let the idle screw out a few turns and its OK. It still surges alot when it comes down, but it doesnt stall anymore.

[Boss254]

Awesome work on the swap man.. Can't belive boostzealot's car is totaled though.

[Serstylz2]

damnit! another one gone... please dont eveerr have to post in graveyard man, please

[WarmAndSCSI]

Well, kind of decent news about boostzealot. He may have been exaggerating slightly - I think it's fixable for a reasonable amount :D

And by the way, I should have already been in the graveyard. The car was totalled last spring - $10,000 in damage. I ended up getting it fixed for under $5k and got a sweet orange paintjob out of it.

[JDM4G64T]

Boost will get his G running shortly. I don't even drive mine every day no more. Drive it like 2-3 days a week. Nice work with the car. Let's see what numbers she's gonna put down..... :D

[underated]

damn glad its running ok now

sorry to hear about boost... hopefully it can be fixed is he ok tho

[WarmAndSCSI]

damn glad its running ok now

sorry to hear about boost... hopefully it can be fixed is he ok tho

Thankfully, he and his wife are fine.

[duh2150]

we still wanna see pics

[WarmAndSCSI]

Okay, here are some updated pictures:

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002352.jpg
The engine all tucked away, safe and sound. Little does it know, it will bent 12 of its valves a few hours later :?

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002328.jpg
Oil pump and front main seal installed.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002329.jpg
Real main seal installed.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002330.jpg
Upper oil pan tapped and prepped.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002331.jpg
Upper oil pan on.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002348.jpg
Completed engine.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002335.jpg
Out with the old.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002339.jpg
...

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002337.jpg
In with the new. :D

Front bank on the old POS: http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002343.jpg

Rear bank:
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002344.jpg

This head is gone :shock::
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002345.jpg

[WarmAndSCSI]

Any way, I've been pushing 10 PSI max this week. As soon as a put my new belt on, it'll be back up to 22 PSI max.

It already feels faster with just 10 PSI :lol:

And some news on boostzealot (I'm sure he'll make a graveyard thread as soon as he gets some pictures uploaded). His car is actually going to be OK. The damage wasn't bad enough to total the car and it's at the body shop right now - should be done in less than a week. The Utah crew isn't broken up just yet :twisted:

[JDM4G64T]

Told ya that boost was gonna be alright. Let's keep it going, no more BAD LUCK!!!! As careful drivers we are now, we need to be even MORE careful...lol

[02galant]

Nice pics and glad to hear boost is okay and so it the car.

[underated]

wow that middle cylinder on the last head is crazy lol

i can wait to see some videos at 22psi lol

[WarmAndSCSI]

wow that middle cylinder on the last head is crazy lol

i can wait to see some videos at 22psi lol

Yeah, that's #4. Completely shot. I really hope I'm not getting any detonation events any more. I've been checking the plugs every other day and they look healthy.

I'll try to get some videos, but I'll need a passenger. I'll probably just wait until next weekend when boostzealot is back for a few days. I can get some videos of it idling and revving though 8)

[Stewi]

What type of engine management are you running?

[boostzealot]

man this is my first time seeing a computer since ive been down here. sorry about over exaggerating but when you see your work crumble before you it is a litte mortifying. anyway as the story goes:
i was on I-15 headed north towards Nellis AFB and traffic was rather congested(a norm for i-15 in vegas in the afernoon) and i was going only about 65mph. i noticed a guy in a multicolored H2 braking excessively and people were moving from behind him. i moved in behind him to try and get from the far left lane to the far right lane(the H2 was in the middle lane) and i got boxed in by an 18 wheeler on my left and a maybach on my right. i slowed to about 45mph to give myself some room from this jackass and also used the opportunity to peek around him to see if there was a situation in front of him and only noticed two cars about two car lengths ahead of him. right as i was refocusing on his bumper i saw his ass end come up from him brake checking me. now mind you common speed was about 65mph and i was doing only 45 so i had some space( like almost two cars). i downshifted from 3rd into 2nd and got on the brakes, noticed i wasnt stopping fast enough and decided to use the brembos and ended up apparently locking all four wheels up and kept going. we slid into him doing about 25mph and he apparently got off the brakes like he was going to take off but then he stopped. i dont even think he felt it but as soon as he saw that i was in uniform and pissed he got scared and apologetic. get this shit, this is where it gets crazy. he was speaking perfect english to me and then refused to show me his credentials, the cops showed up and he began only speaking spanish, the roads have so much shit on them that i had not traction( heard no tire screech nor saw any tire smoke) i showed the cop the road condition and he said that he wouldnt have expected me to stop. so the citation states "due to wit full attention to driving". but man i just cant get over the fact that my car is banged up. here are the pics. the body shop told me once they source everything they will take about ten business days! hopefully i can show them that the CF hood is less than the stock hood and that it doesnt matter about the year but the 03 heads will fit just fine. without further adue:
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/boostzealot/new%20beginnings/DSCN1588.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/boostzealot/new%20beginnings/DSCN1589.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/boostzealot/new%20beginnings/DSCN1590.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/boostzealot/new%20beginnings/DSCN1591.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/boostzealot/new%20beginnings/DSCN1592.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/boostzealot/new%20beginnings/DSCN1593.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/boostzealot/new%20beginnings/DSCN1594.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/boostzealot/new%20beginnings/DSCN1595.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k232/boostzealot/new%20beginnings/DSCN1603.jpg

[djflex167]

damn i'm sorry to see that dude, i hope you can get it back on the road ASAP!! post some picz as you finish working on it!!

[underated]

got damn thats awful i bet the h2 didnt have any damage huh... fukin SUV's. wel gald you and your wife are ok man... i see some upgrades in your future lol

[SkylineG1]

Well there goes another G. Man I'm so sorry that this happened. Glad that you are ok though.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Well there goes another G. Man I'm so sorry that this happened. Glad that you are ok though.
he's getting it fixed :roll:

[WarmAndSCSI]

What type of engine management are you running?

E-Manage Ultimate. It's been really good to me. I think I'm having some problems with my injectors. Right now, they're acting like they're clogged :? I might just replace them.

[lonestar22]

damn im sry man
is the engine ok?

[boostzealot]

thankfully the motor is unscathed. the headers werent even touched. the guy at the bodyshop was convinced that the damaged was done mostly because of the weight of the car and the way it hit the bumper rather than the speed of the accident. its all sheet metal work he said and it should be an easy fix.

thanks to all for the well wishes and greatful thoughts. the wife says thanks too.

[JDM4G64T]

On the real boostz, you got lucky. Reason I say that the ending result of the accident could've been much worse. Glad to see that you and the wife are ok. Sorry @$$ Suv's, then to top it off the guy changed his language...lol. He probably wasn't insured. Looking forward to seeing your G back on the road real soon!!!

[WarmAndSCSI]

You guys are really something else :D

Good luck BJ!

I'll let you all know if I get my injectors fixed this weekend :? Stupid ass fuel injection :lol:

[Stewi]

Yeah Boost, it looks like you sort of dodged a bullet, the damage aint that bad. Thank god the guy didnt have a trailer hitch ball on there. I rear ended a ford econoline with a hitch and it went straight thru the radiator, condenser, fans and slammed the header.

WarmandScSI, try to find a local fuel injection place and just have them check/balance the injectors.

[lucap100is]

good job on your 8G. glad boostzealot is fine.

time for the JDM front ends...

[Boss254]

Send those heads to me! I can practice porting and polishing on those :lol:

[WarmAndSCSI]

WarmandScSI, try to find a local fuel injection place and just have them check/balance the injectors.

I made my own "flow bench" for the injectors - a length of hose to go on the top, and a battery charger to activate the injector. Each of the 6 tested out fine. I just noticed a lot of rich soot on my muffler tip. Must be running rich, so I'm redoing the whole ignition system. Process of elimination :? I really need a dyno and an oscilloscope to figure this stuff out.

[Stewi]

If its running that rich, why were you getting detonation like that on cyl#4? Just too much boost?

[WarmAndSCSI]

If its running that rich, why were you getting detonation like that on cyl#4? Just too much boost?

Dunno on that. That was back then, though. The car has a new tune now.

Well, I'm almost certain my recent chugging/hesitation problems are due to a fried fuel pump. I just ran the damn tank too low (had to fill up with almost 16 gallons). Anybody have a Walbro 255 GSS342 they can overnight me?

Idle fuel pressure is okay, so is free revving fuel pressure, but any load on the car, and the injectors start to cut out. My only hope is to wait until Monday to get one from one of the local speed shops... they were closed today :roll: I've never quite understood why you'd have a speed shop that was closed on weekends - I'm sure it's easy enough to find workers that don't have families to tend to on the weekend. It could be a Mormon thing, dunno.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Well, I've replaced: fuel pump, MSD box (new Digital 6 Plus FTW), coil, coil wire, coil tower, distributor cap, rotor, wires are new Magnecors.

Now it doesn't hesitate during normal driving, but fuel still cuts out up top. It's even worse uphill. I'm convinced the fuel filter is the only serviceable item left to rule out. The other possibilities could be the power transistor, crank angle sensor, EManage Ultimate, or PCM. I'm going with the cheapest solution first. Good thing the stealership has the fuel filter in stock - too bad it's marked up 20% over MSRP. :roll:

[Trevs56]

Well, I've replaced: fuel pump, MSD box (new Digital 6 Plus FTW), coil, coil wire, coil tower, distributor cap, rotor, wires are new Magnecors.

Now it doesn't hesitate during normal driving, but fuel still cuts out up top. It's even worse uphill. I'm convinced the fuel filter is the only serviceable item left to rule out. The other possibilities could be the power transistor, crank angle sensor, EManage Ultimate, or PCM. I'm going with the cheapest solution first. Good thing the stealership has the fuel filter in stock - too bad it's marked up 20% over MSRP. :roll:

lol lol lol stealership ... that is by far the most true statement on earth

[WarmAndSCSI]

Well, I've replaced: fuel pump, MSD box (new Digital 6 Plus FTW), coil, coil wire, coil tower, distributor cap, rotor, wires are new Magnecors.

Now it doesn't hesitate during normal driving, but fuel still cuts out up top. It's even worse uphill. I'm convinced the fuel filter is the only serviceable item left to rule out. The other possibilities could be the power transistor, crank angle sensor, EManage Ultimate, or PCM. I'm going with the cheapest solution first. Good thing the stealership has the fuel filter in stock - too bad it's marked up 20% over MSRP. :roll:

lol lol lol stealership ... that is by far the most true statement on earth

They just jack up parts prices to punish me for doing the work myself. Fucking tools.

[Trevs56]

Well, I've replaced: fuel pump, MSD box (new Digital 6 Plus FTW), coil, coil wire, coil tower, distributor cap, rotor, wires are new Magnecors.

Now it doesn't hesitate during normal driving, but fuel still cuts out up top. It's even worse uphill. I'm convinced the fuel filter is the only serviceable item left to rule out. The other possibilities could be the power transistor, crank angle sensor, EManage Ultimate, or PCM. I'm going with the cheapest solution first. Good thing the stealership has the fuel filter in stock - too bad it's marked up 20% over MSRP. :roll:

lol lol lol stealership ... that is by far the most true statement on earth

They just jack up parts prices to punish me for doing the work myself. Fucking tools.


ya the stealerships are certified con-men whom dont want people working on there cars. i remembered when i financed my car they tried to give me a bullshit parts warranty. there were 2 selections the silver or the gold. my favorite had to be the gold, the higher of the 2 choices. the car comes with an auto tranny an all parts are covered except for the torque convertor.. prolly the most vital part lol. i looked at the salesman like are u friggon kidding me? even better was the gold also covers the fuel system, u no the fuels lines, the fuel rail, and the most important thing on the fuel system.. the fuel gauge lol, i guess a fuel pump, send unit, and injectors arent important at all lol. i swear man i learned my lesson NEVER BUY NEW

[Stewi]

What is your base fuel pressure set at without the vacuum line connected? And what pump do you have, walbro 255 high pressure?

[WarmAndSCSI]

What is your base fuel pressure set at without the vacuum line connected? And what pump do you have, walbro 255 high pressure?

It's set at 38 PSI base. Yep, Walbro GSS342. The sputtering started when I was crusing around on a nearly empty tank - I was kind of lost in a stupid part of SLC. It got worse as the tank got lower, but continued on after I filled up. I picked up a fuel filter at lunch and I'm installing it tonight. It seems to be a lot less restrictive than the old one (did a simple blow-through test).

[Stewi]

What is your base fuel pressure set at without the vacuum line connected? And what pump do you have, walbro 255 high pressure?

It's set at 38 PSI base. Yep, Walbro GSS342. The sputtering started when I was crusing around on a nearly empty tank - I was kind of lost in a stupid part of SLC. It got worse as the tank got lower, but continued on after I filled up. I picked up a fuel filter at lunch and I'm installing it tonight. It seems to be a lot less restrictive than the old one (did a simple blow-through test).

If its not too much trouble try taking a look at the filter on the pump itself. Sometimes contaminants build up in the bottom of the sending unit. I checked mine a few weeks back and it was kinda crappy.

[WarmAndSCSI]

What is your base fuel pressure set at without the vacuum line connected? And what pump do you have, walbro 255 high pressure?

It's set at 38 PSI base. Yep, Walbro GSS342. The sputtering started when I was crusing around on a nearly empty tank - I was kind of lost in a stupid part of SLC. It got worse as the tank got lower, but continued on after I filled up. I picked up a fuel filter at lunch and I'm installing it tonight. It seems to be a lot less restrictive than the old one (did a simple blow-through test).

If its not too much trouble try taking a look at the filter on the pump itself. Sometimes contaminants build up in the bottom of the sending unit. I checked mine a few weeks back and it was kinda crappy.

I cleaned the pickup sock and replaced the filter (the old one was definited blocked). Still having the same high-RPM stumble. I just got done swapping distributors (just for the CAS and power transistor) and putting in 6 new iridium plugs. Tested all the Magnecor wires - they look good. I'm about to go for a drive - I hope this solves it - if not, it's time to replace the ECU and look at replacing the EManage. Unless it's somehow the Crank Angle Sensor... I'm pretty sure that would cause problems at all RPMs. The most remote possibility is that my timing belt is stretched and throws the timing off at high RPM. It's a brand new Duralast (Dayco made in Italy) belt. I only bought it because I knew it was a high-quality Dayco belt.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Oh, and another thing I noticed was that one of my plugs had a really small gap (I think I hit the ground strap when I was working on the heads). It was under 0.020" - around 0.017". I think that could have been causing the misfire, actually. How it manifested itself over time, I don't know.

Unless that's just a byproduct of my misfire... it would tell me which cylinder to look at, though. There were no tell-tale signs of running lean or detonation on the plug, however. I'm running very rich on this new engine, so I don't expect a bad tune.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Well, that last bout of "replace everything because my OBD-II system doesn't tell me what's wrong any more" must have done it. Everything is running smoother, it feels like I have more power than ever (I just did one uphill 45-85 pull and it was just AWESOME :D). Ignition problems can be a bitch on a car like this!

[boostzealot]

i love watching you troubleshoot. cant wait to get my baby back on the road. way to go again man. time for me to get back so we can make some videos!

[WarmAndSCSI]

Now it's running a little too rich - starting to choke on the extra fuel. That's what I get for fixing every single performance-related problem on the car in one weekend. The Walbro 255 L/h actually flows 255 liters per hour now :lol:

[WarmAndSCSI]

So, I already have a chipped piston and subsequent blown head gasket. #5 from a bad injector connection (I'm fairly certain). Go figure. No signs of bad detonation (no smashed/broken spark plug, no pitted heads). Could have cracked it when the valves hit, who knows? I'm not giving up now though. For the cost of 1 piston, I could be back up and running soon.

Might just have to keep taking the bus for another week or so, but I prefer not driving this car around crazy Mormon drivers any way.

[seth98esT]

Jeez man, you will get it right soon. And when you do, it will be worth every penny spent :)

[laxinwarrior]

Shit man, i'm sorry to hear that. :evil: One more week or so will be well worth the wait though i'm sure.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Just sent in my order to CP. Hope they can get it out quick so I can be back up this week.

More important is making sure it doesn't happen again...

[underated]

oh man sorry to hear... hopefully you can get that piston quick i know it sucks not being able to drive your car

[WarmAndSCSI]

It indeed does suck. I'm going to be moving my wideband to the rear bank temporarily to keep an eye on #5. I think I solved it by redoing to connections for #1 and #5 injectors, but you can never be sure without monitoring.

[underated]

oh thats a good idea looks like your on top of things, what kind of wideband are you using?

[WarmAndSCSI]

AEM gauge-type UEGO

[WarmAndSCSI]

Oh, guess what!? Since the #1 injector wiring was bad also, the #1 piston almost failed too! I'm replacing it because I think it will pop the ring land on the next hard pull - it's already bowed out.

The other possibility is that the head gasket was the first thing to go, spilt coolant on the red hot piston tops (during a full throttle 20 PSI pull), and the pistons got brittle and snapped their ring lands. Dunno, I'm not letting it happen again, though.

I have a feeling the wiring was separating during hard pulls (extreme g-forces, yo) and the injectors cut out. There was hardly any contact within the crimps, a little wiggling could definitely do it.

[duh2150]

yeah gonan be extreame g-forces like take my head off :)

[boostzealot]

yeah gonan be extreame g-forces like take my head off :)

dont do that anymore.....
its called proof reading, give it a try or we will be like the evo guys to you. that shit isnt fair for the rest of the board when we have to decipher what the hell you are writing

[duh2150]

im talking about alot of whip lash what are you talking about?, i know hes gonna put down a ass load of hp, dude you need to relax

[WarmAndSCSI]

im talking about alot of whip lash what are you talking about?, i know hes gonna put down a ass load of hp, dude you need to relax

GONAN EXTREAME!!!!!!!!!!!!111111111111111one

That's all I have to say.

[boostzealot]

im talking about alot of whip lash what are you talking about?, i know hes gonna put down a ass load of hp, dude you need to relax

check it out. ill relax when i get on the boards and dont have to use a rosetta stone to read posts from mistyping people. now, take some time and read your damn posts before you click submit and this wont turn into me putting you on blast about your typing and your comments. thanks :wink:

[duh2150]

some mispellings are real mispellings lol, im not the best reader i got like 8th grade comprehension, im not the best reader, writer, speller at all, i been struggling through english my whole life, so you gotta give me a break sometimes, yeah i know its like greek

[WarmAndSCSI]

some mispellings are real mispellings lol, im not the best reader i got like 8th grade comprehension, im not the best reader, writer, speller at all, i been struggling through english my whole life, so you gotta give me a break sometimes, yeah i know its like greek

Don't worry man, I don't have anything against ya. 8)

[lonestar22]

im talking about alot of whip lash what are you talking about?, i know hes gonna put down a ass load of hp, dude you need to relax

check it out. ill relax when i get on the boards and dont have to use a rosetta stone to read posts from mistyping people. now, take some time and read your damn posts before you click submit and this wont turn into me putting you on blast about your typing and your comments. thanks :wink:

x2 ;)

[duh2150]

some mispellings are real mispellings lol, im not the best reader i got like 8th grade comprehension, im not the best reader, writer, speller at all, i been struggling through english my whole life, so you gotta give me a break sometimes, yeah i know its like greek

Don't worry man, I don't have anything against ya. 8)

thats nice to know at least someone understands

[732Galant]

constant basking on dudes on this board. its kind of annoying. it is what it is, but people should just chill. bunch of grammar police

[WarmAndSCSI]

constant basking on dudes on this board. its kind of annoying. it is what it is, but people should just chill. bunch of grammar police

GTFO of my thread. Everybody else in here has contributed something else other than their bickering about spelling/grammar. Why are you here again?

[laxinwarrior]

constant basking on dudes on this board. its kind of annoying. it is what it is, but people should just chill. bunch of grammar police

GTFO of my thread. Everybody else in here has contributed something else other than their bickering about spelling/grammar. Why are you here again?

It is his job as a NOOB to remind everyone else that even though he might not know anything about cars or have any forum etiquette and annoy the rest of us, that he has feelings to and we shouldn't hurt them. :roll:

Anyways, how much boost were you running when you blew the HG? I am assuming you were still breaking everything in so no WOT pulls right?

[WarmAndSCSI]

constant basking on dudes on this board. its kind of annoying. it is what it is, but people should just chill. bunch of grammar police

GTFO of my thread. Everybody else in here has contributed something else other than their bickering about spelling/grammar. Why are you here again?

It is his job as a NOOB to remind everyone else that even though he might not know anything about cars or have any forum etiquette and annoy the rest of us, that he has feelings to and we shouldn't hurt them. :roll:

Anyways, how much boost were you running when you blew the HG? I am assuming you were still breaking everything in so no WOT pulls right?

No WOT pulls on break in????? :lol: Go read http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm It's my break-in bible. Break in occurs within a few miles, this engine already had 300-400 on it.

22 lbs when it burst. Good news is that it probably wasn't the gasket surface itself, it was an extreme lean condition on #1 and #5. Thus, I don't have to resurface the head and block again. #1 is bowed out and ready to pop, #5 has a 3/4" chip on the ring land on the intake side. It was localized detonation from bad injector wiring if I had to make my best guess.

Another side note, the PermaTorqueMLS gaskets from Fel-Pro appear to be the same exact gaskets from Mitsubishi, only cheaper.

[laxinwarrior]

Thanks for the link, it's definitely not what i've always been told but hey if it works I know how i'm breaking my new motor in. :twisted:

[WarmAndSCSI]

Thanks for the link, it's definitely not what i've always been told but hey if it works I know how i'm breaking my new motor in. :twisted:

Done it twice now, got full compression on all cylinders within 100 miles.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Well fuck me! CP Pistons doesn't sell to the public and it would take 1 month to get these custom made any way. The place that supplies Tearstone is out of stock until next Tuesday. Great, just fucking great.

Anybody want to buy this POS?

[Serstylz2]

Well fuck me! CP Pistons doesn't sell to the public and it would take 1 month to get these custom made any way. The place that supplies Tearstone is out of stock until next Tuesday. Great, just fucking great.

Anybody want to buy this POS?

Exactly why I've taken no interest in turbo'ing/supercharging my motor... A) No deep pockets and B) There's always something trying to hold ya back and discourage... but you are already 90% there, might as well finish her up

[WarmAndSCSI]

Well fuck me! CP Pistons doesn't sell to the public and it would take 1 month to get these custom made any way. The place that supplies Tearstone is out of stock until next Tuesday. Great, just fucking great.

Anybody want to buy this POS?

Exactly why I've taken no interest in turbo'ing/supercharging my motor... A) No deep pockets and B) There's always something trying to hold ya back and discourage... but you are already 90% there, might as well finish her up

What's bad is that I was there a few days ago... and then a week before that. It is going to keep on breaking within days no matter how meticulous I am about assembly and tuning. I've had the worst of luck this fall...

[laxinwarrior]

Come on man don't give up now. I mean if you are really that fed up with it at least wait til you get it back together to sell it. You will make back a lot more money that way. :?

[WarmAndSCSI]

Ugh, I'm without a car for another two weeks until these pistons arrive in Florida. I really wish this place could just drop ship two of them to my house. Why aren't performance shops more cooperative?

edit: it's not like anybody would buy this anyway. There are about 2 people in this whole damn country that could properly tune this car. It's the only SDS setup I know of running on an E-Manage Ultimate in auto-tune and speed density mode. Not to mention there's an EcuFlash tune on top of that. Yeah, you'd be SOL if you bought my car and didn't know the ins and outs of the electronics...

[WarmAndSCSI]

Never mind, then. They are drop shipping them from CP in Cali supposedly next week. It would have been like a month otherwise. Stupid Ground shipping.

I should call CP and slip in a little expedite on those pistons :lol: They told me a 1 week expedite is $500 :shock: This industry is fucking lucrative for the manufacturers. $600 for a 6 chunks of aluminum and then another $500 if you want them done in a week. Give me a fucking break. :roll:

[underated]

that sucks they were going to ship from cali to florida first then from florida to utah doesnt make any sense lol did you try to have Russ tell them to ship the pistons straight to you they might listen more to him since he is a distributer... and Russ is a good guy so im sure he would help you out.

[WarmAndSCSI]

that sucks they were going to ship from cali to florida first then from florida to utah doesnt make any sense lol did you try to have Russ tell them to ship the pistons straight to you they might listen more to him since he is a distributer... and Russ is a good guy so im sure he would help you out.

I wasn't referring to Tearstone, just their distributor Race Engineering. Russ was nice and told me to bypass him for this particular ocassion to get the pistons faster. Russ has always been good to me as a customer, always a pleasure to work with.

So Race Engineering is drop shipping them from Cali to my house now. Got them for $140/piece... not too bad, not too good, either. Hopefully CP lights a fire under their asses and gets my pistons out ahead of schedule.

edit: Well, before, they shipped them from Cali to Race Engineering in FL and then Russ either picked them up or had them shipped to his place and then they went out to Utah. I'm still surprised I even got the last set in time - Race Eng. must have had them in stock. Everybody with V6's should buy a bunch of overbore forged pistons so I can get them quicker next time I need them :lol:

[6G72gearhead]

that sucks they were going to ship from cali to florida first then from florida to utah doesnt make any sense lol did you try to have Russ tell them to ship the pistons straight to you they might listen more to him since he is a distributer... and Russ is a good guy so im sure he would help you out.

I wasn't referring to Tearstone, just their distributor Race Engineering. Russ was nice and told me to bypass him for this particular ocassion to get the pistons faster. Russ has always been good to me as a customer, always a pleasure to work with.

So Race Engineering is drop shipping them from Cali to my house now. Got them for $140/piece... not too bad, not too good, either. Hopefully CP lights a fire under their asses and gets my pistons out ahead of schedule.

edit: Well, before, they shipped them from Cali to Race Engineering in FL and then Russ either picked them up or had them shipped to his place and then they went out to Utah. I'm still surprised I even got the last set in time - Race Eng. must have had them in stock. Everybody with V6's should buy a bunch of overbore forged pistons so I can get them quicker next time I need them :lol:

That only works if you can use 11:1

[WarmAndSCSI]

that sucks they were going to ship from cali to florida first then from florida to utah doesnt make any sense lol did you try to have Russ tell them to ship the pistons straight to you they might listen more to him since he is a distributer... and Russ is a good guy so im sure he would help you out.

I wasn't referring to Tearstone, just their distributor Race Engineering. Russ was nice and told me to bypass him for this particular ocassion to get the pistons faster. Russ has always been good to me as a customer, always a pleasure to work with.

So Race Engineering is drop shipping them from Cali to my house now. Got them for $140/piece... not too bad, not too good, either. Hopefully CP lights a fire under their asses and gets my pistons out ahead of schedule.

edit: Well, before, they shipped them from Cali to Race Engineering in FL and then Russ either picked them up or had them shipped to his place and then they went out to Utah. I'm still surprised I even got the last set in time - Race Eng. must have had them in stock. Everybody with V6's should buy a bunch of overbore forged pistons so I can get them quicker next time I need them :lol:

That only works if you can use 11:1

hehe. Well, any greater demand for 3G Eclipse GT/GTS and 8G V6 parts helps out the whole community! If I had practically any Honda, I could walk down the street and get 2 new identical forged pistons. It's hard when you're working with these 6G platforms.

[6G72gearhead]

that sucks they were going to ship from cali to florida first then from florida to utah doesnt make any sense lol did you try to have Russ tell them to ship the pistons straight to you they might listen more to him since he is a distributer... and Russ is a good guy so im sure he would help you out.

I wasn't referring to Tearstone, just their distributor Race Engineering. Russ was nice and told me to bypass him for this particular ocassion to get the pistons faster. Russ has always been good to me as a customer, always a pleasure to work with.

So Race Engineering is drop shipping them from Cali to my house now. Got them for $140/piece... not too bad, not too good, either. Hopefully CP lights a fire under their asses and gets my pistons out ahead of schedule.

edit: Well, before, they shipped them from Cali to Race Engineering in FL and then Russ either picked them up or had them shipped to his place and then they went out to Utah. I'm still surprised I even got the last set in time - Race Eng. must have had them in stock. Everybody with V6's should buy a bunch of overbore forged pistons so I can get them quicker next time I need them :lol:

That only works if you can use 11:1

hehe. Well, any greater demand for 3G Eclipse GT/GTS and 8G V6 parts helps out the whole community! If I had practically any Honda, I could walk down the street and get 2 new identical forged pistons. It's hard when you're working with these 6G platforms.

Its funny because the 6G72 specifically has a better rod ratio than most honda engines. With its displacement I see 300 hp a possibility if the motor allowed sufficient airflow. Yet the 3.0 that they put in the taurus has a better aftermarket.

[WarmAndSCSI]

that sucks they were going to ship from cali to florida first then from florida to utah doesnt make any sense lol did you try to have Russ tell them to ship the pistons straight to you they might listen more to him since he is a distributer... and Russ is a good guy so im sure he would help you out.

I wasn't referring to Tearstone, just their distributor Race Engineering. Russ was nice and told me to bypass him for this particular ocassion to get the pistons faster. Russ has always been good to me as a customer, always a pleasure to work with.

So Race Engineering is drop shipping them from Cali to my house now. Got them for $140/piece... not too bad, not too good, either. Hopefully CP lights a fire under their asses and gets my pistons out ahead of schedule.

edit: Well, before, they shipped them from Cali to Race Engineering in FL and then Russ either picked them up or had them shipped to his place and then they went out to Utah. I'm still surprised I even got the last set in time - Race Eng. must have had them in stock. Everybody with V6's should buy a bunch of overbore forged pistons so I can get them quicker next time I need them :lol:

That only works if you can use 11:1

hehe. Well, any greater demand for 3G Eclipse GT/GTS and 8G V6 parts helps out the whole community! If I had practically any Honda, I could walk down the street and get 2 new identical forged pistons. It's hard when you're working with these 6G platforms.

Its funny because the 6G72 specifically has a better rod ratio than most honda engines. With its displacement I see 300 hp a possibility if the motor allowed sufficient airflow. Yet the 3.0 that they put in the taurus has a better aftermarket.

Sad :(

I'm revving to 7250 right now and it was working sweet before the latest batch of problems.

[6G72gearhead]

that sucks they were going to ship from cali to florida first then from florida to utah doesnt make any sense lol did you try to have Russ tell them to ship the pistons straight to you they might listen more to him since he is a distributer... and Russ is a good guy so im sure he would help you out.

I wasn't referring to Tearstone, just their distributor Race Engineering. Russ was nice and told me to bypass him for this particular ocassion to get the pistons faster. Russ has always been good to me as a customer, always a pleasure to work with.

So Race Engineering is drop shipping them from Cali to my house now. Got them for $140/piece... not too bad, not too good, either. Hopefully CP lights a fire under their asses and gets my pistons out ahead of schedule.

edit: Well, before, they shipped them from Cali to Race Engineering in FL and then Russ either picked them up or had them shipped to his place and then they went out to Utah. I'm still surprised I even got the last set in time - Race Eng. must have had them in stock. Everybody with V6's should buy a bunch of overbore forged pistons so I can get them quicker next time I need them :lol:

That only works if you can use 11:1

hehe. Well, any greater demand for 3G Eclipse GT/GTS and 8G V6 parts helps out the whole community! If I had practically any Honda, I could walk down the street and get 2 new identical forged pistons. It's hard when you're working with these 6G platforms.

Its funny because the 6G72 specifically has a better rod ratio than most honda engines. With its displacement I see 300 hp a possibility if the motor allowed sufficient airflow. Yet the 3.0 that they put in the taurus has a better aftermarket.

Sad :(

I'm revving to 7250 right now and it was working sweet before the latest batch of problems.
With proper cams and valvesprings rpw has got a 8500 rpm 6G74. I dont see why that wouldnt be possible on a 72, probably even higher.

[WarmAndSCSI]

that sucks they were going to ship from cali to florida first then from florida to utah doesnt make any sense lol did you try to have Russ tell them to ship the pistons straight to you they might listen more to him since he is a distributer... and Russ is a good guy so im sure he would help you out.

I wasn't referring to Tearstone, just their distributor Race Engineering. Russ was nice and told me to bypass him for this particular ocassion to get the pistons faster. Russ has always been good to me as a customer, always a pleasure to work with.

So Race Engineering is drop shipping them from Cali to my house now. Got them for $140/piece... not too bad, not too good, either. Hopefully CP lights a fire under their asses and gets my pistons out ahead of schedule.

edit: Well, before, they shipped them from Cali to Race Engineering in FL and then Russ either picked them up or had them shipped to his place and then they went out to Utah. I'm still surprised I even got the last set in time - Race Eng. must have had them in stock. Everybody with V6's should buy a bunch of overbore forged pistons so I can get them quicker next time I need them :lol:

That only works if you can use 11:1

hehe. Well, any greater demand for 3G Eclipse GT/GTS and 8G V6 parts helps out the whole community! If I had practically any Honda, I could walk down the street and get 2 new identical forged pistons. It's hard when you're working with these 6G platforms.

Its funny because the 6G72 specifically has a better rod ratio than most honda engines. With its displacement I see 300 hp a possibility if the motor allowed sufficient airflow. Yet the 3.0 that they put in the taurus has a better aftermarket.

Sad :(

I'm revving to 7250 right now and it was working sweet before the latest batch of problems.
With proper cams and valvesprings rpw has got a 8500 rpm 6G74. I dont see why that wouldnt be possible on a 72, probably even higher.

Piston velocity on the 74 is significantly higher, too.

At 8500, the 74 approaches 4800 ft/min. The 72 is running around 4200 ft/min. So much more rev potential. I could only imagine what my lower end could do :twisted:

[WarmAndSCSI]

Well, I spent the entire weekend helping a friend pull and tear apart his WRX engine. Swapping in a new EJ25 block. Exciting stuff.

I've got a new item to throw in the engine bay. A semi-polished fuel rail off a 3000GT VR-4!

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002367.jpg
This is the new fuel rail.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002368.jpg
This is the new rail compared to the old (shit) one.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002369.jpg
Restriction hole inside of the old injector opening.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002371.jpg
Oh look, no restriction.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002370.jpg
Restriction at the fuel rail opening

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t158/vancottt/S8002374.jpg
Again, no restriction.

Yay! :D

[boostzealot]

stupid ass stock shit. man this car has so many places to improve its not even funny. im tellin you man we are completely reengineering the galant :lol:

[WarmAndSCSI]

stupid ass stock shit. man this car has so many places to improve its not even funny. im tellin you man we are completely reengineering the galant :lol:

They should have just brought the VR-4 to the states; that would be boring for us, though. Get your Galant fixed, bro. You've still got a lot left to do when you get back from Iraq :D

I just realized how big this thread is. :shock: Sweet.

[laxinwarrior]

Big thread for big mods. Keep on keeping on and get this beast running soon. :twisted:

[WarmAndSCSI]

Big thread for big mods. Keep on keeping on and get this beast running soon. :twisted:

Expecting the pistons on Thursday if CP's forecast was correct. And if Race Engineering didn't screw me on the whole deal. CC still isn't charged, so I'm starting to wonder.

[boostzealot]

man and you know places like that dont even like to start packing that shit until they have their payment.
yeah i plan to have a lower manifold sent to me while im there to start my itb setup. i need to look at the NA max power thread so i can shed some light

[WarmAndSCSI]

man and you know places like that dont even like to start packing that shit until they have their payment.
yeah i plan to have a lower manifold sent to me while im there to start my itb setup. i need to look at the NA max power thread so i can shed some light

CP was sending the pistons to Race Engineering regardless. I just happened to get lucky and catch them before they went UPS Ground all the way to Florida. Should be going out Tues.

[boostzealot]

goodie goodie. did you check out that link i sent you?

[WarmAndSCSI]

goodie goodie. did you check out that link i sent you?

Yep, just need to figure out if I want to try to build mild steel manifolds out of my RPW headers or just make a DP for the cali spec manifolds out of stainless.

[boostzealot]

man i told you i can get someone to make the flanges and fuck those manifolds. you saw how much they sucked the very first time we raced after meeting with rich at taco bell :wink:

[WarmAndSCSI]

man i told you i can get someone to make the flanges and fuck those manifolds. you saw how much they sucked the very first time we raced after meeting with rich at taco bell :wink:

I meant the fed-spec manifolds, whoops.

[boostzealot]

i figured as much. anyway i have to start gathering parts for my itb setup now. i hope that i have at least 2k from the wreck. that would be the hit at MOD 08

[6G72gearhead]

i figured as much. anyway i have to start gathering parts for my itb setup now. i hope that i have at least 2k from the wreck. that would be the hit at MOD 08

Man, your beating me to the N/A stuff, I might just have to take the fastest 3.0L galant.

[WarmAndSCSI]

i figured as much. anyway i have to start gathering parts for my itb setup now. i hope that i have at least 2k from the wreck. that would be the hit at MOD 08

Man, your beating me to the N/A stuff, I might just have to take the fastest 3.0L galant.

He's going to be away for 6 months so you can take the lead :o

[boostzealot]

and thats only because i wont have my car. oh but when i get back its on. i plan to have one of the fastest NA 3.5's ever in a four door. i saw the NSX guys make 331whp with a stock intake manifold and tb on a NA 3.8. ive got some tricks up my sleeve.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Race Engineering just charged my card. Might be getting the pistons this Wednesday. Ver nice! 8)

[laxinwarrior]

Congrats, I know the wait was killing you.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Congrats, I know the wait was killing you.

The cost of this is killing me. I just spent $100 on FLUIDS for my car. RTV sealant, oil, filter, and coolant. :shock:

But I bet you'll never see a faster piston swap than this come Wednesday or Thursday. I estimate 30 minutes :lol:

[6G72gearhead]

i figured as much. anyway i have to start gathering parts for my itb setup now. i hope that i have at least 2k from the wreck. that would be the hit at MOD 08

Man, your beating me to the N/A stuff, I might just have to take the fastest 3.0L galant.

He's going to be away for 6 months so you can take the lead :o
And the lack of funding rears its ugly head.

[WarmAndSCSI]

i figured as much. anyway i have to start gathering parts for my itb setup now. i hope that i have at least 2k from the wreck. that would be the hit at MOD 08

Man, your beating me to the N/A stuff, I might just have to take the fastest 3.0L galant.

He's going to be away for 6 months so you can take the lead :o
And the lack of funding rears its ugly head.

Tell me about it. I just walked a mile both ways to 7-Eleven in the cold to get some snack food. I'm getting kind of desperate here. This car is going to run me dry :lol:

[6G72gearhead]

i figured as much. anyway i have to start gathering parts for my itb setup now. i hope that i have at least 2k from the wreck. that would be the hit at MOD 08

Man, your beating me to the N/A stuff, I might just have to take the fastest 3.0L galant.

He's going to be away for 6 months so you can take the lead :o
And the lack of funding rears its ugly head.

Tell me about it. I just walked a mile both ways to 7-Eleven in the cold to get some snack food. I'm getting kind of desperate here. This car is going to run me dry :lol:

Yeah, I'm also working 70 hours a week, and having time to do anything to the car is a problem.

[seth98esT]

I have time to work on my car, just no money. Wish they would let me work a 70hr week :/

[6G72gearhead]

I have time to work on my car, just no money. Wish they would let me work a 70hr week :/

Hehe, get two jobs. Work half shifts each day and quickly get pissed off at the lack of time allowed for normal things such as eating, and taking a shit.

[JDM4G64T]

Congrats, I know the wait was killing you.

The cost of this is killing me. I just spent $100 on FLUIDS for my car. RTV sealant, oil, filter, and coolant. :shock:

But I bet you'll never see a faster piston swap than this come Wednesday or Thursday. I estimate 30 minutes :lol:

I bet the suspense must be killing you, it's def doing the same to us spectators....LOL. All this is making me nervous with my evo swap in jan.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Congrats, I know the wait was killing you.

The cost of this is killing me. I just spent $100 on FLUIDS for my car. RTV sealant, oil, filter, and coolant. :shock:

But I bet you'll never see a faster piston swap than this come Wednesday or Thursday. I estimate 30 minutes :lol:

I bet the suspense must be killing you, it's def doing the same to us spectators....LOL. All this is making me nervous with my evo swap in jan.

Evo swap = infinitely easier than building a boosted 6G72 like this. I've entered a lot of uncharted territory on this ongoing build-up. You'll be very happy on the 4G63 platform.

[JDM4G64T]

Congrats, I know the wait was killing you.

The cost of this is killing me. I just spent $100 on FLUIDS for my car. RTV sealant, oil, filter, and coolant. :shock:

But I bet you'll never see a faster piston swap than this come Wednesday or Thursday. I estimate 30 minutes :lol:

I bet the suspense must be killing you, it's def doing the same to us spectators....LOL. All this is making me nervous with my evo swap in jan.

Evo swap = infinitely easier than building a boosted 6G72 like this. I've entered a lot of uncharted territory on this ongoing build-up. You'll be very happy on the 4G63 platform.

This may seem like a dumb question, but do you think what I"m doing with my car in jan is worth it??

[WarmAndSCSI]

Congrats, I know the wait was killing you.

The cost of this is killing me. I just spent $100 on FLUIDS for my car. RTV sealant, oil, filter, and coolant. :shock:

But I bet you'll never see a faster piston swap than this come Wednesday or Thursday. I estimate 30 minutes :lol:

I bet the suspense must be killing you, it's def doing the same to us spectators....LOL. All this is making me nervous with my evo swap in jan.

Evo swap = infinitely easier than building a boosted 6G72 like this. I've entered a lot of uncharted territory on this ongoing build-up. You'll be very happy on the 4G63 platform.

This may seem like a dumb question, but do you think what I"m doing with my car in jan is worth it??

I think it would be easier and more cost-effective to go with an Evo head swap, but that's just me. As far as turbo fitment and all that, it will be much easier with the full Evo swap, but you could used the saved money to build a decent turbo setup. If you want the Evo ECU that'll mean going manual, too. An E-Manage Blue/Ultimate might not be a bad choice.

[JDM4G64T]

That's what i'm doing full evo swap with a 3g manny tranny and a big turbo, with ecu from the evo and e-manage and quaife lsd. It's gonna be a pain, but I believe it'll come out ok

[WarmAndSCSI]

That's what i'm doing full evo swap with a 3g manny tranny and a big turbo, with ecu from the evo and e-manage and quaife lsd. It's gonna be a pain, but I believe it'll come out ok

Don't really need the E-Manage if you have the Evo ECU, IMO. It understands what boost is :lol:

[JDM4G64T]

That's what i'm doing full evo swap with a 3g manny tranny and a big turbo, with ecu from the evo and e-manage and quaife lsd. It's gonna be a pain, but I believe it'll come out ok

Don't really need the E-Manage if you have the Evo ECU, IMO. It understands what boost is :lol:

Good to know, thanks. What about the lsd?? I take it I'm def gonna need that, huh??

[JDM4G64T]

That's what i'm doing full evo swap with a 3g manny tranny and a big turbo, with ecu from the evo and e-manage and quaife lsd. It's gonna be a pain, but I believe it'll come out ok

Don't really need the E-Manage if you have the Evo ECU, IMO. It understands what boost is :lol:

Good to know, thanks. What about the lsd?? I take it I'm def gonna need that, huh??

Which ecu am I gonna need, what yr I mean??

[WarmAndSCSI]

That's what i'm doing full evo swap with a 3g manny tranny and a big turbo, with ecu from the evo and e-manage and quaife lsd. It's gonna be a pain, but I believe it'll come out ok

Don't really need the E-Manage if you have the Evo ECU, IMO. It understands what boost is :lol:

Good to know, thanks. What about the lsd?? I take it I'm def gonna need that, huh??

Which ecu am I gonna need, what yr I mean??

LSD is good. :lol:

You'll probably want an Evo 8 ECU (2003-2005). I think the swap is pretty straightforward. Just read up on Club3G.

[JDM4G64T]

That's what i'm doing full evo swap with a 3g manny tranny and a big turbo, with ecu from the evo and e-manage and quaife lsd. It's gonna be a pain, but I believe it'll come out ok

Don't really need the E-Manage if you have the Evo ECU, IMO. It understands what boost is :lol:

Good to know, thanks. What about the lsd?? I take it I'm def gonna need that, huh??

Which ecu am I gonna need, what yr I mean??

LSD is good. :lol:

You'll probably want an Evo 8 ECU (2003-2005). I think the swap is pretty straightforward. Just read up on Club3G.

K, I will thanks again for your advice. Very useful towards my swap :D

[WarmAndSCSI]

Just got the two new pistons from CP. Specs are all identical. Going to start puting them in tonight.

[underated]

good stuff... let us know how things go

[WarmAndSCSI]

Pulled out the old two pistons. #5 had a nice clean chunk of the ring land missing and some signs of a single heavy detonation event. #1 has a huge bulge where the ring land almost popped and signs of a heavy detonation event.

Both cylinder walls are fine, both rods look A-OK, and the bearings still have some of the chalky thin metal on the surface and are wearing evenly.

Transferring the rods tonight and putting it all back together tomorrow evening+night.

[JDM4G64T]

Pulled out the old two pistons. #5 had a nice clean chunk of the ring land missing and some signs of a single heavy detonation event. #1 has a huge bulge where the ring land almost popped and signs of a heavy detonation event.

Both cylinder walls are fine, both rods look A-OK, and the bearings still have some of the chalky thin metal on the surface and are wearing evenly.

Transferring the rods tonight and putting it all back together tomorrow evening+night.

GOOD LUCK, MAN. Let us know how it turns out.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Pulled out the old two pistons. #5 had a nice clean chunk of the ring land missing and some signs of a single heavy detonation event. #1 has a huge bulge where the ring land almost popped and signs of a heavy detonation event.

Both cylinder walls are fine, both rods look A-OK, and the bearings still have some of the chalky thin metal on the surface and are wearing evenly.

Transferring the rods tonight and putting it all back together tomorrow evening+night.

GOOD LUCK, MAN. Let us know how it turns out.

Thanks, got the rods transferred, spiral locks installed, piston rings removed and #5 top ring cleaned up (melted aluminum on the top side). Tomorrow I'll put the pistons in, put the head back on and check compression.

[JDM4G64T]

Pulled out the old two pistons. #5 had a nice clean chunk of the ring land missing and some signs of a single heavy detonation event. #1 has a huge bulge where the ring land almost popped and signs of a heavy detonation event.

Both cylinder walls are fine, both rods look A-OK, and the bearings still have some of the chalky thin metal on the surface and are wearing evenly.

Transferring the rods tonight and putting it all back together tomorrow evening+night.

GOOD LUCK, MAN. Let us know how it turns out.

Thanks, got the rods transferred, spiral locks installed, piston rings removed and #5 top ring cleaned up (melted aluminum on the top side). Tomorrow I'll put the pistons in, put the head back on and check compression.

When you know that you can start her safely, you should make a video...lol.

[beam514]

When you know that you can start her safely, you should make a video...lol.

agreed. I can't wait to see this all done

[WarmAndSCSI]

I suspect I can get it started again tonight. Just don't want to rush the process. I'll take a quick video once it's done. If you guys get lucky, you'll get to see an engine fire or something else exciting!

[duh2150]

yeah watch it blow up because its to powerful

[jeremyl464]

Congrats on being almost done, hope everything works out. I really admire your work... Someday when I have the money...

[JDM4G64T]

YAAY I'M NOT A NOOB NO MORE...LOL. I'm sure the video will be worth the wait... 8)

[boostzealot]

tim cant really take good videos with me gone :wink: im so proud of your progress on this car and thank you for motivating me to keep my car and push forward. MOD will be a hit next year. i cant wait to show you what ive come up with for my plans :twisted:

[WarmAndSCSI]

i cant wait to show you what ive come up with for my plans :twisted:

It better involve boost... boostzealot :roll:

Pistons are both IN! No complications - I'm getting really good at doing this stuff. It's even easy with the engine in the car and the car slightly lifted.

Now to put everything else back together and hope I put the piston rings right side up and in the correct order :lol: Don't think I'm that careless, but OCD is a BITCH, especially when you've already put something together.

[Steaks]

I am getting excited! I can't wait to hear her purr

[WarmAndSCSI]

I am getting excited! I can't wait to hear her purr

Your signature is huge.

[bronxbombr]

I am getting excited! I can't wait to hear her purr

Your signature is huge.

i think im one of the few with the smallest sigs.

[Serstylz2]

hahah...

Supporter: I can't wait to see vids of your car, it inspires me to learn about this car's platform and maybe someday start my own build... thanks for walking us through this.

Warm: Get out Mr. Big Sig.

[WarmAndSCSI]

hahah...

Supporter: I can't wait to see vids of your car, it inspires me to learn about this car's platform and maybe someday start my own build... thanks for walking us through this.

Warm: Get out Mr. Big Sig.

Was just saying... his signature is huge.

[Eclipse97526]

Nice build man, beautiful ride, and i didnt like the v6 ! lol, that looks nice ! nice rocs and pistons and ummy :) powdercoated valve cover, i wish someone did powder coating around here.

[duh2150]

i cant wait till i get 600 bucks for my own build! just for a 53k engine!

status engine cmpleted: at this rate 10 years
money going to be put in: an ass load
horse power at the end: hopefully 400
knowledge: about 1/4 that i know lol

[boostzealot]

Nice build man, beautiful ride, and i didnt like the v6 ! lol, that looks nice ! nice rocs and pistons and ummy :) powdercoated valve cover, i wish someone did powder coating around here.

wow tim when did you get a powder coated valve cover? :lol:
anyway ill be home on sunday but i have to work monday night so ill see if i can get down there to check things out. ill give you a call about the car also.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Nice build man, beautiful ride, and i didnt like the v6 ! lol, that looks nice ! nice rocs and pistons and ummy :) powdercoated valve cover, i wish someone did powder coating around here.

wow tim when did you get a powder coated valve cover? :lol:
anyway ill be home on sunday but i have to work monday night so ill see if i can get down there to check things out. ill give you a call about the car also.

Dunno, it just showed up?

I checked my rings and they were all in order (AKA: complete waste of time). I might or might not try to finish it tonight - I'd rather wake up early and work on it then.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Ah, snow is nice to look at but sucks for me! There are like 1-foot snow drifts in front of my driveway. No way I'm going anywhere, so I'm just taking it slow.

Head is back on, oil pan is back on, timing is set. Just need to put all the intake stuff back on, hook the downpipe back up, and bolt the water pipe up. I plan to do a quick compression test. #5 seems to be leaking down still, but I think it's because of the rust on the cylinder wall from the blown HG - it'll take some running for the rings to seat back in. Dunno, I think it'll be OK, though.

[duh2150]

well hook that shit up! i wanan see it run! and give some quick revs :)

[WarmAndSCSI]

Just my luck. Block is sealing A-OK but compression test shows me that the head is still leaking. I didn't check it for flatness and I didn't see any cracks, so I'm guessing it's warped over combustion chamber #5.

Haven't even bothered starting it yet, so I'm going to reuse everything that went in since I'm currently broke - head gasket, oil, etc. Gotta drain the coolant, though. Yay, another week of waiting :cry:

[Stewi]

Just my luck. Block is sealing A-OK but compression test shows me that the head is still leaking. I didn't check it for flatness and I didn't see any cracks, so I'm guessing it's warped over combustion chamber #5.

Haven't even bothered starting it yet, so I'm going to reuse everything that went in since I'm currently broke - head gasket, oil, etc. Gotta drain the coolant, though. Yay, another week of waiting :cry:

Just hit that headgasket with a few coats of copper spray, wait 10 mins for it to tack up and install it, I had a cometic headgasket that I removed at least 3 times and reused it and it never failed.

[beam514]

Just my luck. Block is sealing A-OK but compression test shows me that the head is still leaking. I didn't check it for flatness and I didn't see any cracks, so I'm guessing it's warped over combustion chamber #5.

Haven't even bothered starting it yet, so I'm going to reuse everything that went in since I'm currently broke - head gasket, oil, etc. Gotta drain the coolant, though. Yay, another week of waiting :cry:

well that really sucks
hope everything gets all fixed up soon

[WarmAndSCSI]

Just my luck. Block is sealing A-OK but compression test shows me that the head is still leaking. I didn't check it for flatness and I didn't see any cracks, so I'm guessing it's warped over combustion chamber #5.

Haven't even bothered starting it yet, so I'm going to reuse everything that went in since I'm currently broke - head gasket, oil, etc. Gotta drain the coolant, though. Yay, another week of waiting :cry:

Just hit that headgasket with a few coats of copper spray, wait 10 mins for it to tack up and install it, I had a cometic headgasket that I removed at least 3 times and reused it and it never failed.

You're never supposed to use copper spray on MLS head gaskets. You can SOMETIMES reuse them without spraying them.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Pulled the head and found a slight warpage on the #5 side. Could be causing the massive leak, but I suspect it's some aluminum that blew out onto the gasket sealing surface during the detonation event. Head lift during this event could have allowed molten aluminum from the blown piston to seep out onto the gasket, causing a massive leak when the head clamped back down.

[duh2150]

quick question is that car ever going to move?

for great power = an ass load of problems, i think ill put that as one of my notes

[WarmAndSCSI]

:roll: GTFO of my thread.

[GOOSEY2099]

quick question is that car ever going to move?

for great power = an ass load of problems, i think ill put that as one of my notes

I think that until you go through something like that you should keep your fucking comments to yourself and your mouth shut!! No one here need negative comments when so much money and time has been spent on this/these projects.

[WarmAndSCSI]

quick question is that car ever going to move?

for great power = an ass load of problems, i think ill put that as one of my notes

I think that until you go through something like that you should keep your fucking comments to yourself and your mouth shut!! No one here need negative comments when so much money and time has been spent on this/these projects.

No shit, I'm really close to just giving up right now, but a $50 head resurface isn't that much more money to put in if it solves this.

[bmore303]

Man if you've gone this far you BETTER NOT give up. You've come too far to turn back. You're going big and you're doing your own work. Take as long as you need to get it all squared away. There's no time limit right? Besides I've been reading this topic regularly to see what else you've done to this thing. :mrgreen:

[Stewi]

Just my luck. Block is sealing A-OK but compression test shows me that the head is still leaking. I didn't check it for flatness and I didn't see any cracks, so I'm guessing it's warped over combustion chamber #5.

Haven't even bothered starting it yet, so I'm going to reuse everything that went in since I'm currently broke - head gasket, oil, etc. Gotta drain the coolant, though. Yay, another week of waiting :cry:

Just hit that headgasket with a few coats of copper spray, wait 10 mins for it to tack up and install it, I had a cometic headgasket that I removed at least 3 times and reused it and it never failed.

You're never supposed to use copper spray on MLS head gaskets. You can SOMETIMES reuse them without spraying them.

That may be what cometic tells you, but my engine machinist, and turbo trix racing, and a bunch of other tuners in this area who primarily do EVO's and DSM's swear by using copper spray. I had copper spray on my original facotry MLS headgasket and it held 20psi and repeated abuse perfectly fine. My boy has copper spray on a cometic headgasket on a 650whp 2g drag car, and it holds 35psi strong. The main reason cometic says not to use the spray is because they want you buying a new gasket.

As for what duh2150 said, thats messed up. Dont disrespect anyone's project like that. Once you get into horsepower levels this high the smallest problem can set you back weeks and hundreds if not thousands of dollars. Duh2150 keep in mind what you said if/when you do your turbo setup and your car either doesnt run, runs like shit, or blows up and you come to the board asking all kinds of questions. How messed up would that be if we said the same thing to you.

[Serstylz2]

his name is duh... obviously he's not too bright... read the rest of his posts in this thread..

[WarmAndSCSI]

Just my luck. Block is sealing A-OK but compression test shows me that the head is still leaking. I didn't check it for flatness and I didn't see any cracks, so I'm guessing it's warped over combustion chamber #5.

Haven't even bothered starting it yet, so I'm going to reuse everything that went in since I'm currently broke - head gasket, oil, etc. Gotta drain the coolant, though. Yay, another week of waiting :cry:

Just hit that headgasket with a few coats of copper spray, wait 10 mins for it to tack up and install it, I had a cometic headgasket that I removed at least 3 times and reused it and it never failed.

You're never supposed to use copper spray on MLS head gaskets. You can SOMETIMES reuse them without spraying them.

That may be what cometic tells you, but my engine machinist, and turbo trix racing, and a bunch of other tuners in this area who primarily do EVO's and DSM's swear by using copper spray. I had copper spray on my original facotry MLS headgasket and it held 20psi and repeated abuse perfectly fine. My boy has copper spray on a cometic headgasket on a 650whp 2g drag car, and it holds 35psi strong. The main reason cometic says not to use the spray is because they want you buying a new gasket.

So you're serious about this? I've always heard the opposite. http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=538011

I did it on my first rebuild and it worked fine for at least 15k miles of hard driving. Should I really try it again?

edit: Okay, here's the plan: get the head resurfaced tomorrow at my machine shop for less than $50. Spray the gasket down with a few light coats of copper spray (already have plenty of it). Reinstall head and hope for the best.