View Full Version : 8G 4g64 swap to 4g63t + evoturbo How to *incomplete* (PICS!)
7 years ago lol
Title should be changed to complete ^^
ahem... THIS THREAD IS FOR A COMPLETE 2003 EVOLUTION 8 ENGINE +EVOLUTION ACCSSORIES USING A 2003 GALANT FRAME AND GALANT OEM WIRING/ENGINE HARNESS
parts used for this thread are described bellooooowwwwwwwwwww.....have fun!
laxinwarrior
11-02-2007, 02:32 AM
Uhhh the only 4g63t you can use IS from an evo.
underated
11-02-2007, 02:51 AM
laxinwarrior is right the 2g and 1g 4g63t's will not fit
your choices are evo 4g63t, 4g64, 4g64 block evo head, 4g64 block optima/sonata head,
pick which one you want to do and i can tell you more about it i've been doing alot of research are there are some things your going to need to know about some of those combonations but i dont wanna type out everything for all of them if your not going to choose that option
that engine in the ebay link would work it is out of an evo, stewi oon here got a jdm engine and it wasnt in the best condition so if you are going to get that engine i would budget for a rebuild too
underated
11-02-2007, 03:12 AM
oh also to boost the 4g64 you do not have to change the crank or the cam... well you could get the rpw cam but you dont have too... if you want to make substantial power past 18psi you will need a more aggressive cam but its not necessary to intiially boost our engine
lets see your parts list and i'll try to help you out as much as i can
parts list needed and used for this swap along with the accompanying info
-evo engine
-evo intake manny
-evo turbo manifold
-galant exhaust manifold flange ( optionnal but its the cheapeast way) unless u can make a flange urself , for starter clearance explained further below)
-aftermarket tubular manifold or a custom made adapter (explained below)
-evo turbo housing
-evo turbo
-evo intercooler
-oem evo intercooler pipping
-oem or aftermarket air intake kit ( kn typhoon gives a hell of a sound)
-evo wastegate
-evo BOV or aftermarket ( dont go cheap, go turbosmart!) if u want some sound. OEM spec one is exhaust refeed not atmospheric so no sound is heard basically.
-u can use the G radiator, but the evo rad fits as well.
-it would be interesting to know if the evo triple clutch works in a eclipse transmission lol
eclipse clutch system
-evo oem oil cooler or any kind ( with custom made adapters to fit it , whichever )
- evo injector ECU control unit ,not in G or eclipse ,
-evo power steering pump/unit
-evo air conditionning pump/unit ( not required but be sure to check which model of strap you have and i have no clue if the galant or eclipse non a/c will fit the evo non a/c & vice versa
-evo downpipe
-evo main ECU
-evo passenger side engine mount
thats about what i got so far,
as for the engine well the evo mentionned would go for 3300 + the rebuild ( which is another gran ) so lets says for 4500 its rdy plus all the fitment and other things i will have to change.... ( it would come with a manual tranny so i could sell my tranny swap in here
the sonata optima head would also be good but the performance would be less than the evo head for the same amount of work ( i do have to swap head) the engine engine will cost less at start but the labor will be the same
seth98esT
11-02-2007, 10:11 AM
That would be a 94 GS motor, will not fit an 8g.
k , would of been nice it wasnt expensive at all but still
i just called jap engine located in montreal and they can get me an evo engine 4g63t from 1998to2000 with everything ecu, tranny , turbo piping intercooler, for about 3000 , or the engine only for about 1200 to 2000 $ ( hes not selling the head alone )
the only 4g63t they had in stock was a 95 and a 97 both from eagle talons.
pretty sure the 95 doesnt fit, and the 97 probably wont either...
the evo engine sounds like a good deal
but i sense i will be warned in the futur by a generous member of this community NOT to do buisness with japengine so i did not venture in that direction.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lancer-Evolution-8-Cylinder-Head-4G63T-EVO8-EVO-VIII_W0QQitemZ330182855061QQihZ014QQcategoryZ33617 QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
just found this evo (4g63t) head , lets say i buy the head and i use my 4g64 block get the parts from my list and i should be good for 20 psi and with some mods on the block i could go to 30 psi, right?
ok so ive narrowed down my choices, the engine sold (in stock) by japengine in montreal is a 4g63t from a 2 talons so thats out
the evo he can order are in other words evos 4 and 5 and maybe 6 ( rs model would be cool 330 bhp :shock: ) it would fit my G
all 3 of em have the same specs stock, 276 bhp and 260 lbs torque for the evo 4 , 275 for the evo 5 and 284 for the evo 6 ( someone correct me if im off here )
the link for the head above is a jdm evo 8 head so the internals should be better than the previous ones, but the stock specs are about the same.
or theres this one
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2004-Mitsubishi-EVO-engine-complete-engine-with-Turbo_W0QQitemZ230137745321QQihZ013QQcategoryZ3361 5QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
which is an evo 8 again but complete engine,
would come up to 4000 , 1000 more than the japengine guy in montreal , but the engine would be off an evo8 jdm instead of an evo 4, 5 or 6
is it worth it, i mean the internals cant be THAT different.
both should have around 50 k on the engine
all of the evos have a stock boost of about 15 psi right
underated
11-02-2007, 06:46 PM
so it looks like your set on getting an evo engine....
1 the transmission that comes with the engine will not work it is for an AWD car so it most likely has a transfer case bolted to it so unless you are going to fit the rest of the AWD setup in the galant you cant use that transmission...
2 the last link you posted sounds like the best option (i would find out as much info as possible before you buy it tho)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2004-Mitsubishi-EVO-engine-complete-engine-with-Turbo_W0QQitemZ230137745321QQihZ013QQcategoryZ3361 5QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
3 the evo head by itself would work also on on eof the 4g64 blocks you have butlike i mentioned above you will need new pistons if your going to turbo that motor which you should probably do anyways it's not wise to turbo a car with 12:1 compression
4 no other mitsubishi engine but an evo 4-9 will fit in this car without major modification
5 keep your current 5 speed transmission swap parts because the evo transmission will not work unless you are going AWD which is another big project in itself
what i would do is use one of your 4g64 blocks, buy the evo 8 head, buy forged pistons speced for that head and block combination, buy forged rods, and a evo 9 turbo setup, build that motor and put the 5 speed transmission you have on it and call it a day
but for the fun of it , the AWD tranny , if i just remove the driveshaft and the drivetrain bassically remove everything from the yoke to the back , would it work ?
coz thats what my friend did in his eagle, might not work in our G come none came out AWD
anyway , so its down to the last question
after reading wiki on mitsu evo'S i found out that they did change some internal from the evo 4 to 5 , then from 5 to 6 , but since the evo 7 its been only tweaking and electrical stuff for the AWD , ( like active diff a,d yaw control )
so the best choice would be the evo 6 engine
the evo block and the 4g64 block , can they potentially handle the same amount of hp/torque if the proper internals are changed , coz the evo block stock is good for max 21 psi and the 4g64 stock is max 18 psi , so after cam, rod , connection rod, cranck all the stuff needed to boost at 30 psi , , would there be a difference between the 2 ???
and with that kind of setup , il need the evo brake or brembo brake kit and frame kit etc.. but the first step is getting the engine in the G
oh also to boost the 4g64 you do not have to change the crank or the cam... well you could get the rpw cam but you dont have too... if you want to make substantial power past 18psi you will need a more aggressive cam but its not necessary to intiially boost our engine
lets see your parts list and i'll try to help you out as much as i can
if i put a turbo head on a atmospheric block , i will need to change the pistons right?
underated
11-02-2007, 09:14 PM
that car was meant to be AWD the galant is not... you have to modify the crossmember and the steering rack just to get the transmission and transfer case to fit
komodo
11-02-2007, 09:51 PM
There are actually many places in Montreal that can sell you a 4g63t. There are also a few places that can help you with the swap.
I don't know much about modding yet but.. from what I remember reading there was a thread on swapping the drivetrain from FF to AWD.. but it was based on a 3G Eclipse. If you are willing to read further into it then that would probably be a good basis from where to get your source/info.
There was also a shop somewhere located in Ottawa or somewhere miles and miles away from Montreal that does custom drivetrain work. My friend researched it when I told him that the EVO in FnF:Tokyo Drift was swapped from AWD to FR.
underated
11-02-2007, 10:01 PM
the limit of the 4g64 block is not 18psi the limit of the cylinder head is 18psi to make any type of significant gains
if use use the evo head and 4g64 block there is no debating you will have to get forged pistons with a lower compression ratio atleast, because you can not use the stock block and evo head together with a turbo turbo a 12:1 compression do not mix well
the evo block and the galant block are EXACTLY the same for the most part its just the internals that are different and the height of the deck/block
Jeffylou87
11-02-2007, 11:16 PM
Lucky you..
i thought this was a nice addition
taken from wikipedia
Evolution IV
Fourth generation
Production August 1996–January 1998
The Lancer platform was completely changed in 1996, and along with it the Evolution, which had become extremely popular throughout the world. The engine and transaxle was rotated 180° to better balance the weight and eliminate torque steer. There were 2 versions available, The RS and GSR
Evolution V
98-99
The track was widened by 10 mm (0.4 in), the wheel offset changed from ET45 to ET38 along with the wheel diameter which rose from 16" to 17" to accommodate Brembo brakes which were added to enhance braking. In addition the brake master cylinder bore increased by 0.3 millimetres (0.01 in). The engine was strengthened in a few areas and the cam duration was increased. The pistons were lighter with a smaller skirt area. 510 cc injectors were replaced with 560 cc injectors for better engine reliability due to more electrical "headroom" and the ecu was changed to include a flash ROm.Further more, the turbocharger was again improved. Torque was increased to 275 ft·lbf (373 N·m) at 3000 rpm. Power officially stayed the same, at 280 PS (276 hp/206 kW) as agreed by Japan's automotive gentlemen's agreement that all cars would have 276 or less hp, but some claim horsepower was actually somewhat higher.
Evolution VI
Sixth generation
Production January 1999–March 2001
The Evolution VI's changes mainly focused on cooling and engine durability. It received a larger intercooler, larger oil cooler, and new pistons, along with a titanium-aluminide turbine wheel for the RS model, which was a first in a production car.
Evolution VII
Seventh generation
Production March 2001–January 2003
In 2001, Mitsubishi were forced by the FIA to race in the WRC using WRC rules for building a car instead of the Group A class rules, and thus did not need to follow homologation rules. The Evolution VII was based on the larger Lancer Cedia platform and as a result gained more weight over the Evolution VI, but made up for this with multiple important chassis tweaks. The biggest change was the addition of an active center differential and a more effective limited-slip differential, while a front helical limited-slip differential was added. Torque was increased again to 284 ft·lbf (385 N·m) with engine tweaks that allowed greater airflow, and horsepower officially remained at 280 PS (276 hp/206 kW). .)
The 5-speed automatic gearbox had what Mitsubishi called 'fuzzy logic', which meant that the car would learn what the driver's driving characteristics were like and would adapt the gear change timings and kick down reactions accordingly. The gears could be manually selected as with most tiptronics via steering wheel + and - buttons (a pair both sides) or via selecting the tiptronic gate with the gear lever. Power was down a little from the standard manual cars with a very usable 272 bhp (203 kW). The GT-A gearbox did not appear again in the Evolution VIII but has been installed in the estate version of the Evolution IX Wagon.
Evolution VIII
Production January 2003–March 2005
The Evolution was changed again in 2003, this time sporting Super Active Yaw Control to handle traction and a 6-speed manual gearbox. It was available with 280 PS (276 hp/206 kW) in three trims: standard (GSR in Japan), RS (devoid of all excess components, such as interior map lights, power windows/doors, and radio) and MR. RS Editions came with a revised limited-slip front differential.
The Lancer Evolution VIII MR uses slick-response Bilstein shocks for improved handling. Detail improvements have also been made to Mitsubishi’s own electronic all-wheel drive, to the ACD 5 + Super AYC 6 traction control and to the Sports ABS systems. . In the United Kingdom, many special Evolutions were introduced, which included FQ300, FQ320, FQ340, and FQ400 variants. They each came with 305, 320, 340, and 400 hp (227, 239, 254 and 298 kW), respectively. It is rumored that the 'FQ' stands for 'Fucking Quick'.The FQ400, sold through Ralliart UK, produces 302.13 kW (405.2 hp), from its 2.0 L 4G63 engine as the result of being specially modified by United Kingdom tuning firms Rampage, Owen Developments and Flow Race Engines. At 202.9 hp (151.3 kW) per litre, it has one of the highest specific output per litre of any roadcar engine. With a curb weight of around 3200 lb (1451 kg), it achieves a 0-60 mp/h in 3.5 seconds and a 0-100 mp/h in around 9 seconds , top speed is 174 mp/h (280km/h), while costing about £47,000. BBC's television series Top Gear demonstrated that the FQ-400 could surprisingly keep up with and eventually overtake a Lamborghini Murcielago around a test track. The Stig recorded a Top Gear Power Lap Times of 1 minute 24.8 seconds.[4] In a similar test conducted by UK supercar magazine evo, the Evolution was able to lap the Bedford Autodrome faster than an Audi RS4 and a Porsche Carrera 4S.
The Lancer Evolution VIII was also the first Evolution to be sold in the United States, spurred by the success of the Subaru Impreza WRX which had been released there just three years prior.[citation needed] The Evolution VIII found its true competition in the Subaru Impreza WRX STI model the same year as the Evolution VIII's US introduction. However, the internal components for the American versions were largely stripped-down versions of the specifications for the Japanese Lancer Evolution VIII. No US-spec Evolution model has active yaw control, including the 2006 Evolution IX. The American 2003 and 2004 GSRs are without the helical limited-slip front differential and 6-speed manual transmission. The 2004 US spec RS models, however, do have a front helical limited-slip differential. All 2003, 2004 and 2005 RS and GSR models have the Japanese Evolution VII's 5-speed transmission. The MR edition was introduced to the US in 2005, with ACD and the only model with a 6-speed transmission. The 2005 US spec RS and GSR have the ACD standard, and the front helical limited-slip differential is now standard on all models. The timing and tuning are also slightly lower than its Japanese counterpart, allowing it to adhere to the strict emissions regulations of the United States.
Stewi
11-05-2007, 09:16 PM
Dont buy anything from Jap engines in Montreal. Thats where I got my JDM EVO7 motor from. The pistons cracked in 250 miles and when I tried to call them about the warranty they swear the motor has, they told me I had no warranty.
If your going to buy an EVO engine, why not just get an USDM spec one, so that one day when you break something or loose a bolt or something, you can just go to the dealer and get what you need. Trust me, I did this already. I thought I was getting an awesome deal, $2200shipped for a JDM EVO7 motor, uhhh ohhh, then I had to get a water pump, which took two months and $200 to get, when if I had an EVO8 it would have taken 1 day and $140.
thx for the warning stewi
Stewi
11-06-2007, 08:18 PM
That thing about the JDM motor being stronger is BS. Its the same rod and piston.
well i just called one of my friends whos a salesman at the local mitsu dealer
he said all tbe evo engine are made and assembled in japan,
theres only 3 kinds being made in the states ( illinois has the only manufacturing plant for mitsubishi) and its making galant, eclipse, and an SUV dunno which
so Up yours wikipedia...your WRONG :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
so this is the kit im gonna end up with
the guys name is andrew koblik
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=003&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=130170364603&rd=1
i just gave as 1000 deposit and am gonna give the 3000 ( 3600 + shipping ) remaining this week )
3600 kit includes
evo 8 engine
intake manny
turbo manny
stock turbo
turbo piping
intercooler
ecu
all accessories ( fuel pump, alternator , resisor box, injectors ect..)
brembo calipers and evo rotors
engine mounts
pretty much everything except the tranny, and tranny accessories
he says he started the motor ( evo was crashed in the back so front is ok ) and everything ran fine , no leaks whatsover , running perfectly
anyway lemme know what u guys think
ruben71
11-09-2007, 09:31 PM
Awesome, u got lucky on finding one like that. Not even alot of miles which is good. Good luck on your swap. :D
u got lucky on finding one like that
not luck my friend
u cant imagine the # of places i called and the # of emails i sent
the negotiation , the hassle to get the money in time,
anyway
now the fun begins ...
underated
11-10-2007, 01:40 PM
pm sent
pm sent
cant wait to get it
thx m8!! :D
got a call from customs,
the engine is in!!!!!!!
going to pick it up tomorrow, il post some pics of the compete setup
laxinwarrior
12-05-2007, 04:57 PM
Congrats, get those pics up so we can see how sweet that deal was. :twisted:
and heres the star....
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd72/theeqs/100_0236.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd72/theeqs/100_0238.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd72/theeqs/100_0239.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd72/theeqs/100_0240.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd72/theeqs/100_0241.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd72/theeqs/100_0245.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd72/theeqs/100_0246.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd72/theeqs/100_0247.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd72/theeqs/100_0248.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd72/theeqs/100_0249.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd72/theeqs/100_0763.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd72/theeqs/100_0761.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd72/theeqs/100_0806.jpg
ok so ive started another topics for the 8 g evo brembo brake swap ( hope the mods wont be mad )
also he sent me the evo clutch ....
anyone tried to fit it in a eclipse tranny ???
Stewi
12-07-2007, 11:10 PM
Evo clutch isnt compatible.
THe piece thats messed up is the oil filter housing and oil pump housing. The good new is you should change the pump anyway and its $175 and the filter housing is $90, the bad news, to do the pump, you need to take off the T belt and re-set it. However, since your taking it out, you can also eliminate your balance shafts too.
ok well who wants to buy an evo clutch ???
well is the evo oem oil pump that good ?
how bout a high pressure fuel pump ? i know greddy does one but its 1000 $ ...
theres moroso too....
ok oil pump aside
the evo gauge cluster and steering wheel
wheel has an oem airbag so thats good, our galant'S wheel are 15 inch in diameter , and the evos are 14 inch ( so 1 inch smaller )
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/mitsubishi-evo-evolution-lancer-steering-wheel-air-bag_W0QQitemZ320195374478QQihZ011QQcategoryZ33704Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
the evo speed cluster
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/06-Lancer-Evolution-9-INSTRUMENT-CLUSTER-GAUGE-EVO-XI_W0QQitemZ360004546466QQihZ023QQcategoryZ33675QQ ssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
anyways these arent essential to the swap so ....
little update on this
got some more parts for the big swap
got my megan racing downpipe which i hope will fit without any work needed on it .
got the evo MAF sensor 2 weeks ago
Johnathansgalant
06-24-2008, 09:38 AM
nice project but i gotta question -- y would u use an emanage if ur going with a swap?? why not just change the harness or rewire to use the evo ecu? hope it works out for u..
it will be better with the Evo ecu, the emanage and the profec b spec 2
i still need the msd ignition kit , and i still need to upgrade the cooling setup
Stewi
06-30-2008, 04:48 PM
why do you need an MSD ignition? I run with stock EVO coils and it work fine.
DOHCstunr
06-30-2008, 07:11 PM
getting to the point where you start buying shit cause you read about how it makes things soooo much better....
truth is you end up buying shit you don't need cause you are feeding the fantasy of a car that you already could have running.... but don't
give up the bench racing and get the bitch running... then start buying all the useless fancy shit.
getting to the point where you start buying shit cause you read about how it makes things soooo much better....
truth is you end up buying shit you don't need cause you are feeding the fantasy of a car that you already could have running.... but don't
give up the bench racing and get the bitch running... then start buying all the useless fancy shit.
what did i ever do to you ???
anyways i wont just be satisfied with the regular swap , right now im missing a better clutch than the 3 g eclipse one, also need the 3 '' exhaust, also need a new BOV and wastegate .
i also might change the cooling piping and upgrade my galant rad for a koyo one
im not in that of a hurry to just get the '' bitch running '' like you mentionned.
its probably gonna be done at the end of the summer
also need to do some body work on it
Stewi
06-30-2008, 08:07 PM
What we are saying is dont fix anything that aint broken. Like needing the MSD ignition, your getting into more trouble than its worth. Stock EVO ignition is good up to 500whp. Invest that money into something that will yield a higher rate of return in terms of performance or reliability. My boy has a full out race 2g, with a complete cage, race motor, standalone, etc. He just ripped out the MSD box because it caused him nothing but trouble, he put stock coils in the car and it runs great.
ZigenScarface
06-30-2008, 10:07 PM
u type sooo much lol, sell me those evo brake setup u dont need them 8)
Stewi
06-30-2008, 10:37 PM
do u know which ignition control unit did he used ? the 6a , 6al, 6t, 6btm, 6m-2, or the msd-6 ? did he get it tuned and tested ?
anyway i havent bought it yet , i have to get what i mentioned in the above first
thx for the FYI stewi
He had a Digital 6AL, and yes it was tuned and tested. The person in questions is a certified standalone engine management tuner, its the same person who tuned my AEM and pretty much everyone in NYC's DSMLink or ECUFlash (for subaru's)
u type sooo much lol, sell me those evo brake setup u dont need them 8)
hehe sry get your own :P
my brakes started squealing couple days ago, so im gonna do the swap next week, as soon as i receive my new pads and rotors
also stewi, if i may ask, when u say it caused nothing but trouble, can you clarify a bit?
ZigenScarface
07-02-2008, 12:09 AM
hehe sry get your own :P
my brakes started squealing couple days ago, so im gonna do the swap next week, as soon as i receive my new pads and rotors
also stewi, if i may ask, when u say it caused nothing but trouble, can you clarify a bit?
ill race you for them!!! (before u get ur swap done):smt028
Stewi
07-03-2008, 11:13 PM
hehe sry get your own :P
my brakes started squealing couple days ago, so im gonna do the swap next week, as soon as i receive my new pads and rotors
also stewi, if i may ask, when u say it caused nothing but trouble, can you clarify a bit?
misfires, drew too much voltage, was a PITA to wire up properly. Just look at it like this, EVO coils are PLUG AND PLAY. If you want more than the EVO coils, he can get a HKS TwinPower box or a SunAuto ignition amp, both are also PLUG AND PLAY. Look at the fast EVO's on EVOM, there aint a damn one of them running an MSD box, there is a reason for that, there are better, simpler products that cost the same or similar money. Also look at how many 400+whp EVO's run stock ignition with no trouble on stock reflashed ECU's
sweet info , i know the evo engine is good enough for 400 whp without any modding
i just thought the msd systems was a good add-on for it. it seems i was mistaken
alright well the big day is coming soon so il keep you guys updated
i started the swap guys
heres the pics for the beginning of the project
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd72/theeqs/100_0789.jpg
ongoing , il even have the swap on film guys !!
il be done for spring
any clues as to how anyone made the starter fit
caus the mounting points on the eclipse tranny is the same as the 8g but the evo one differs ,
here are some pics of what im refering to
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd72/theeqs/100_0804.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd72/theeqs/100_0805.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd72/theeqs/100_0806.jpg
Stewi
02-26-2009, 10:15 PM
I replied to your PM
4g63lover
02-26-2009, 10:20 PM
cant you replace the starter plate to a 3g one??
i probably could but theres no space behind the turbine to mount the starter
lonestar22
02-27-2009, 03:06 PM
northern cars, so rusty.
arent canadian inspections a pita?
if by a pita u mean easy , yeah they arent that bad
anyways since my 5speed swap is from an 3g eclipse the solutions lies within an aftermarket intake and some welding to make room for the eclipse starter
ok heres an important part
the ecu wiring
first off, these topics will help
http://www.club3g.com/forum/rs-gs/107515-dual-ecu-works.html
that one is for a dual ecu setup ( 4g64 and 4g63t ecu)
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/evo/tech/EVO-ecuwiring.htm
this is the evo ecu pinout provided by roadraceeng. its accurrate but could use more info
heres another one
http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tPath=3_5&tech_id=19
and another
http://www.lancerevoclub.com/piedinaturaecu-e.htm
these are pretty much all the same but its good to have some backups
anyway heres the ones from the 8g service manual
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd72/theeqs/8gecupinout.jpg
heres the final stuff , but if u guys think theres any mistake whatsoever plz let me know
wel update this until its accurate to 100 %
4G64-EVO
1-1
9-14
24-2
2-15
14-4
28-17
15-5
29-18
6-6
20-8 anyone knows if these need to be plugged into the ECU if the car has no A/C ?
34-9
11-10
12-23
41-12
47-25
19-19
18-21
21-22
61-24
8-33
22-36
52-37
49-38
54-41
83-45
26-54
35-55
43-58 evo sheet says tach , 8g service manual says engine ignition signal 3000r/m
3-60
92-61
58-71 can someone confirm this plz, 8g says ignition switch st evo says starter signal
64-72 i read somewhere that i might have to connect a grond here also, caus of a
difference in temperature intake between the two , anyone can confirm?
91-73
73-75
71-76
66-80
46-40 can anyone confirm this? plz
98-82 8g says ignition switch ig , evo says ignition, can anyone confirm ?
44-83 same story here about the ground and the diff in temp. should i connect 1 ?
78-84
55-85
80-86
79- on a post someone said to plug it into evo pin # 87 ,but theres no wire there, ??
56-88
45-89
65-90
now the fun part
111-51 this is for the immobilizer ECU ( anti theft )
90-78 KNOCK sensor, but i believe the galant doesnt have one , and 1 needs to be
installed for better timing. can anyone confirm plz?
113-79 DATA link connections
42-13 chassis grounds
16-40 * one of these should go on the intake air temperature sensor galant pin#64
57-40 * ''
48-26 Chassis ground
60-46 Fuel level in the instrument cluster
85-62 DATA link connector
so im stuck with these left
on the evo wires
PIN # 3 is the fuel pressure solenoid. the evo doesnt have the same fuel pump as our Galant , so does it need to be plugged somewhere ?
PIN # 11 is the wastegate solenoid wire so a new circuit must be created i suppose
PIN # 31 & 32 are A/C , but the 8 g service manual only list 3 pin # 83, 61 , 20
the evo lists 5 A/C pins # 8 , 24, 31, 32, 45
PIN # 34 has a blue wire but i got no information at all on what it is , any info any1?
PIN # 35 is for an intercooler sprayer system, a new circuit needs to be created
PIN # 39 if the evo fuel tank is full the ecu receives/sends a signal to the fuel pump to unleash more gas to the engine for max performance. on the other hand, if the tank is empty the pump will be in economy mode and will not deliver as much gas. im pretty sure our galant doesnt have that . any1 have an idea on where it goes, ?
PIN # 43 is a clutch position sensor . a new circuit needs to be created to the manual clutch , the harness needs to be connected behind the clutch pedal .
PIN # 44 & 57 & 91 intercooler sprayer
pin # 74 & same story for these fuel sensors ? any1 knows where it goes?
and finnaly PIn # 92 which are the sensor grounds , can anyone confirm i think these are the grounds that need to be plugged with the galant pin # 44
pretty much all the wires that are on the fourth 8g harness are for the auto tranny ,
if anyone can help filling the missing parts , i would greatly appreciate it .
il update it as it goes, im doing more searching also
also there might be good to post
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd72/theeqs/evo208-26020ecu20conn2028medium29.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd72/theeqs/convertingautotoemswautotranny.jpg
ZigenScarface
03-28-2009, 08:52 AM
so.. is this thing running?
not yet,
im finishing the wiring
engine is in :P
doing the final work this month
therev
04-10-2009, 03:23 AM
cant wait for the outcome, just read the entire swap sounds sweet bro, u should come to a TGC meet is quebec close to NY?
~Gabe
ny/canada border is about 3 hrs drive from where im at
Galante
04-30-2009, 02:52 PM
how's it coming along?
clutch and flywheel are installed, was gonna put in tranny but im missing the damn plate that goes between the engine and the tranny , the one that the starter goes through
anyways the rest of the manual swap is done , so its only a matter of days ,
i already sent the intake manni to be welded in an angle for the starter clearance
important note
if ur swapping the entire engine and accessories , and u are getting the evo ps pump , u will need the power steering main hose
dealer is 350 but u can get an adapter custom made for cheaper
here is mine
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd72/theeqs/100_0844.jpg
hose is raised a bit besides that , peachy
nyjets985
07-22-2009, 01:05 AM
so this still aint done yet ???
i need help with the immobilizer
is there a way to override it or do i need to get the evo ecu flashed ?
ZigenScarface
08-15-2009, 10:47 PM
post some pics of what youve done so far
Stewi
08-15-2009, 10:55 PM
i need help with the immobilizer
is there a way to override it or do i need to get the evo ecu flashed ?
you need to get it flashed. You send me on overage of 10 pm's a week asking me questions about things like this, I give you the correct answer, but it's not the quickest/easiest/cheapest answer, so you post up here hoping someone else will tell you what you want to here. Im not trying to be malicious or rude, but you obviously have been asking me for help because I know what im doing, so when I tell you 100% you need to have it flashed with the correct immobilizer, it needs to be done, there is no cheap/easy "short out this wire to that wire" work around.
you need to get it flashed. You send me on overage of 10 pm's a week asking me questions about things like this, I give you the correct answer, but it's not the quickest/easiest/cheapest answer, so you post up here hoping someone else will tell you what you want to here. Im not trying to be malicious or rude, but you obviously have been asking me for help because I know what im doing, so when I tell you 100% you need to have it flashed with the correct immobilizer, it needs to be done, there is no cheap/easy "short out this wire to that wire" work around.
x2.
ya i know i posted this at the same time i asked you by pm
its because i want the thread to include the questions ive been asking you so it makes it more precise .
theres was also a delay caus i didnt want to buy the 1.3u cable from new zealand ( which in the end i had to do )
its not about it being cheap it was a time issue
anyway i got the tactrix cable yesterday so im gonna do it tomorrow
thx for ur help again guys
besides whats wrong including he same posts if the subject is the same but in a different community . if the reader already read it he can just close it or move on to the next post lol
alright i read from the ecu but it didnt work
the data link cable from the evo is pin 62 orange wire goes with galant pin 85 LIGHT GREEN wire
the second data link cable goes from evo pin 79 green white wire to galant pin 113 blue green wire
turns out i had to rewire 2 wires at the galantobd2 port
the first one should be red and black 12v , but the only wire emiting any voltage on the galant port is the yellow black one , it can remain plugged into the tactrix, but a 12v constant power is needed on that red and black one
also the last wire which is a red white wire , that needs to go to pin 50 on the evo ecu .i used the stock usdm evo 8 ecu and it DID NOT have any wires in pin # 59
darkmitsu which helped me a lot ( thx m8 ! ) has the same setup as me but DID have a wire at evo 8 ecu pin # 59 .
anyways
with the ecu pinout i mentionned earlier and these mods at the obd2 port , the ecuflash software is reading the ecu like a charm
. i then deleted the immobilizer , rear 02 sensor and knock sensor
with code 5650 at periphery 0 with the hex fonction d=0x5650
like mentionned on topics regarding ecuflash
after adding the periphery lines <table name =..........ect >
i started the car and it ran just fine ....for 5 min then it stalled
i retested every thing and found no malfunction . i then deleted the solenoids with periphery 2, 3, 4
car still didnt start
on the interior fuse box . fuse # 20 had popped ( stock is a 10 amp ) so i replaced it and the car started and stopped after 5 min , the fuse had blown again
i tried a 15 amp fuse, doesnt pop and i took it out after 20 min drive at it was barely hot
its probably a bad ground or a surge
anyway the car is running fine now
im gonna try and post some pics and im gonna fix this walkthrough
done !!!! good news,
bad news ... i had found a bigger place for my garage and i could only afford it huge rent because we were 2 company under one roof .
well guess what
the owner of the other company just walked away from a 2 year leash after just 3 months!
....
ffs...
rez887
11-06-2009, 01:06 AM
done !!!!
after 3 years, I remember your incomplete ride from the time that I bought your 02-03 taillights on ebay!
lol rez , ur talking about my old galant the 02 one which i swapped to manual
this 03 G i bought in sept 07 and began the evo swap on nov 08
1 year it took me , not 3 lol
mrg7243
12-01-2009, 07:22 PM
I have a few questions with the swap, Range of diffuculty, Hardest part, Did the motor bolt into existing mounts, did the ECU work with the stock stock wring harness besides changing pins.
@ mrg7243 the 4g63t has the same mounting points as the 4g64 , 3 of the 4 engine mounts are on the tranny ( 1 on the driver side, front and left are on crossmember ) and the other one, the passenger side one. is in 2 parts, 1 of the part is bolted on the engine and goes underneath/through the timing belt, so do not remove that one . u need to unscrew the 2 parts holding the engine mount together so that u end up with 1 part on the engine and 1 part on the frame. U will need the evo engine mount part that goes on the frame , as the galant mount part will NOT fit with the evo engine mount part . Also it is VERY important to use high quality/durability nuts ( grade 11 ) or higher otherwise they will bend or break and the engine will drop a few inches/centimeter thus making ur clutch/bellhousing not work properly or even worse , break .
As for the ECU u cannot use the galant ones , u need the evo ones but u can use the rest the of galant engine harness . You also need the 4 evo injector wires too . The info on that is already in the thread....i think lol
and this is it chaps . ( not you grammar police , no one likes u!) lol
the evo engine swap . this part list. how to info is for a 2003 evolution 8 usdm engine in a 2003 canadian galant alongside a 2001 eclipse manual transmission.if you are confused about the years then i suggest you read a bit more info on it.
pics on
http://s221.photobucket.com/user/theeqs/slideshow/
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.581476151883822.1073741825.100000643264115&type=1&l=a940643c59
parts required
-evo engine
and voila !.....
ok after looking at it for several days and closing your jaw shut . make sure you have
-an entire front clip would not be exagerated if you can get a good deal on it , the evo transmission you do not need unless you intend to swap AWD , it seems theres a few members who did it while i was away ( btw whats up with the new site/format ??? )
but the evo tranny is about 3000-5000 $ well back in 2007 anyway lol maybe its cheaper nowadays anyway this thread is not for a evo engine AWD swap , no only FWD for now . BTW on that topic, do not mod the engine with the intention to gain performance, i installed a bit of it, and tweaked the engine and got it a bit too high ( just by adding the k/n typhoon, custom exhaust , remapping, turbosmart BoV, stage 4 6 puck bully clutch ,all in a FWD and 300+bhp is kinda not fun for city driving. clutch is hard so when the idle is too low u will stall, but starting at 1300 rpm, you cant look like your starting a race at every corner....
anyway so all oem evo parts are good enough for a fwd g. but be my guess if u want to mod it up . Pauls evo was up to 1000 i think last i checked.
highly suggested to get a suspension and brake upgrades , brembo evo brakes and rotors fit on the 8g so its the best solution imo.
the evo engine harness is not required as you can use the g one just fine.
if you keep the G harness you will need to rewire the ecu with the proper pins # as seen in the pics
if you take the evo harness and install it , everything under the hood with connect perfectly but underneath the drivers console, not 1 will be the same, so a few diff harness will need rewiring ( i do not have the wire colors and application for those)
( --------------------------REMOVAL PROCESS------------------------------------- )
everything! except the engine galant harness.
everything has to go if you arent already manual converted , if you are then you can leave the master, shifter cables and interior alone ,as all the swap is under the hood info and ecu re-pinning, u can keep the galant axle for the evo engine ,
you should end up with an empty engine bay as shown in the pics.
(installation)
unscrew the 2 parts of the galant AND the evo passenger side engine mount
- with the top part of the G mount, u bolt the LOWER part of the evo passenger engine mount. 1 hole will have to be widened. DO NOT uSE smaller diameter bolts as they will bend or break
-now you can bolt the evo engine with the manual tranny and install the 4 engine mounts ( with crossmember)
-install the starter using 1/8 washers between them ( i purchased a eclipse started from a 97 turbo versionned as the solenoid is much bigger as seen in the pics)
- Now because of the turbo manifold goes straight down to the turbo housing And because the evo had its started a lot lower on the tranny, you will find that it will not fit. this is where the second turbo manifold and second flange come into play
- you need to lenghten your turbo manifold just enough to get clearance for the starter. as you can see from the pics, i started with an oem sheet gasket , then used the g exhaust flange as a spacer, then another oem sheet gasket , then i had to cut the oem turbo manifold at the end of each cyclinder tubes as seen on the pics, i then had the end of each welded INSiDE the tubular manifold . This was the most costly custom work, overall parts and work charged comes about 700 .
- install the turbo housing and turbo to make sure you have enough to clear the starter.
-install the intercooler piping at the intake manifold
-install the BOV
-install the air intake
install make sure to connect all the oil lines clearance will become an issue for a few of them.
-reconnect transmission components ( clutch, line , cables. ect)
- reinstall radiator, and install 1 or 2 fan if u can ,( see pics)
install the rest of the intercooler piping
-install oil cooler and oil cooler hoses.
- install intecooler ( you will need to relocate the powersteering fluid cooler which are the 2 smal bars behind the bumper
- install downpipe ( the oem evo downpipe will not bolt-on to the G exhaust line , so eithe you cut the galant exhaust ( NOT recommended as the diameter of the exhaust will shorten ) i went with a custom made 3 inch exhaust and muffler.
will finish this one soon
ok so heres some troubleshooting :
engine lights , console display, heating system , ac and blower, everything is working like a charm, as soon as you put the key into the ignition and turn the car to start, everything electrical signal is dies out, the engine does not crank, the starter does not tick . the fuel pump cannot be heard , so i think the immobilizer reseted itself, which happened once , ? i cant seem to find a short anywhere and everything is plugged and in order im gonna try and see if i can connect the ecu tomorrow with a pc
got a new multi meter today, tested the battery, 12v
tested inside fuse box 12v on the screw besides the fuse.
i tested pin 12 and 25 of the evo ecu which is supposed to be 12v but it gave me a reading of 0... but when i connect pin 12 and 25 to a ground my car door light turns on and so does the hand brake light and battery light( if there is no fuse in slot # 20)
i checked the fuse box and the junction block for rust or some of the green corosive stuff and didnt find any , the contact were clean and still shiny
there was on the other hand a HUGE ball of spider cobweb, so much and compact that u could feel the lid tearing through it. i checked the connections after cleaning it and they were ok .
the junction block has no sign of corroded contact inside and outside
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