Royal Purple

[Ruslik]

Is royal purple the best oil to run a turbo setup on??

[WarmAndSCSI]

No, it's purely a race oil that's meant to be changed after every race. I don't care if they say it's for street cars, it doesn't have the same additive package, that say, Mobil 1 or AMSOIL does for street usage.

[DNSerrano]

No, it's purely a race oil that's meant to be changed after every race. I don't care if they say it's for street cars, it doesn't have the same additive package, that say, Mobil 1 or AMSOIL does for street usage.

This is correct. I had used Royal Purple when I started my car thinking it was the best, but Mobil 1 Synthetic is actually better and has cleaned up my engine a lot. I had lifter tap for God knows how long and even tried valve medic but Mobil 1 actually did something to the car and made it perform better aswell. Go for Mobil 1 dude

[6G72gearhead]

You guys do know that RP has a street oil out right.

[WarmAndSCSI]

You guys do know that RP has a street oil out right.
Read my post. It's the opinion of many oil experts that their regular old street oil sold in parts stores still isn't sufficient for street usage. I was never impressed with it as well.

[Ruslik]

so mobil 1 synthetic?

[WarmAndSCSI]

No, it's actually not a real synthetic but it's good enough for you. The only real Mobil 1 synthetic in the US is 0W-40 cause it's BMW LL certified among other things that require it to be composed of at least Group IV base oils

[RedGalant2k1]

AMSoil synthetic FTW!!

[6G72gearhead]

Read my post. It's the opinion of many oil experts that their regular old street oil sold in parts stores still isn't sufficient for street usage. I was never impressed with it as well.

Meh, they have API certification which doesnt mean much, I mean penzoil got it. The initial film strenght is awesome but it gets dirty fast, thier additives also go away with few heat cycles.

[SkylineG1]

I've heard mixed reactions to Royal Purple. Some say it's good some say it's not that good. I just stick to Quaker State Synthetic.

[IceDouTGaLanT]

I'm still running regular mobile oil, maybe i should switch to Mobil 1 synthetic, do i just switch over completely? or is their a process

[silver_beast98]

if you really care enough, do the research... you will find that hands down, the best oil on the market is AMSOIL...

[WarmAndSCSI]

I'm still running regular mobile oil, maybe i should switch to Mobil 1 synthetic, do i just switch over completely? or is their a process
No, just switch. Most "switching to synthetic" horror stories are just isolated cases.


if you really care enough, do the research... you will find that hands down, the best oil on the market is AMSOIL...
According to AMSOIL :lol: It's good stuff, but it's far from a godsend. Mobil 1 0W-40 is just as good.

[4-G-rim]

For street usage Mobile 1 is probably the best oil you can use or Castrol GTX which had a little better results compared to Mobil 1 in a synthetic oil comparison I read last year.

No need to put any "hardcore race oil" if your car is 99% a street daily driver vehicle. With the money you save, buy a good oil filter like OEM or Puralator Pure One.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Castrol GTX is conventional oil... Syntec is their synthetic oil. They may have been reviewing German Castrol Syntec (0W-30) which is a very good real synthetic oil. Other Syntec is just like Mobil 1, it's not actually synthetic. They're allowed to call Group III-based motor oils "synthetic" in the United States. It does not matter any way unless you really run your engine hard.

[run1206]

i've used Mobil 1 synthetic for about a year; never had a problem using it

[IVORY_G]

I switched over to Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil about a year ago, and have been running it ever since. As of my last oil change I just started using the K&N Oil Filter also. I've had no complaints thus far. I've been running the 5W-30, but now I'm at about 75,000 miles, so I was gonna switch to 10W-40. Anybody think thats a bad idea?
I live in So Cali and drive about 275 miles a week. [City driving mind you, wish there was more wide open space out here.]
This AMSOIL, Ive never heard or seen it before, how much price difference is there b/w it and Mobil 1?

[WarmAndSCSI]

75,000 miles isn't nearly enough to start running a thicker oil. If anything, I'd use 0W-40 Mobil 1 just like I keep telling everybody.

AMSOIL is a ripoff for people who don't really race their cars, don't worry about it.

[IVORY_G]

Whats your reason for saying that 0W-40 is better? My mechanic is the one who suggested running thicker oil on my next change...

[WarmAndSCSI]

I really wish people just just start READING THE THREAD. 0W-40, like I said before, is better because it's an actual synthetic oil. It costs the same as other Mobil 1's and is a good viscosity choice in general. The 40 shears down to about a 30 and the 0W allows for better cold starts.

[IVORY_G]

Its funny you say that bcz I actually did read the thread. From what I understand the 0W-40 is unecessary for the warm climate that I live in. If I lived somewhere with below freezing temps than maybe it would be a benefit, but I live where it barely gets below 50 degrees.
As you know the manufacturer recommends 5W-30, I was content with sticking with that until my mechanic told me otherwise. So besides it being an ACTUAL Synthetic, what advantage would I see from running 0W-40 in my non-peformance, daily driven, warm climate residing car?

[WarmAndSCSI]

Obviously you didn't read what I said:


The 40 shears down to about a 30 and the 0W allows for better cold starts.

Even a start at 80 degrees is a COLD START relative to operational temperature. 5W-30, 0W-40, use whatever you want. 10W-40 isn't a good choice, however. You're not going to see any benefit, it's just my PERSONAL PREFERENCE.

[IVORY_G]

Obviously you didn't read what I said:



Even a start at 80 degrees is a COLD START relative to operational temperature. 5W-30, 0W-40, use whatever you want. 10W-40 isn't a good choice, however. You're not going to see any benefit, it's just my PERSONAL PREFERENCE.

I find it funny that you keep assuming that Im not reading what your posting, on the contrary I AM.

Your right relative to operating temperature, 80 degrees is a cold start. But there is a marginal difference in starting your car in 80 degree weather and starting your car in 5 degree weather. The hotter it is the easier your car will start, we all know that.
From reading the "Cracking the oil change Myth" thread it says:
"Older cars may specify 10W30 only. This is because they need a little more viscosity when cold to keep a protective film on the cylinder walls. There have been instances where the larger amount of viscosity modifiers that are present in 5W30 have broken down due to excessive heat and have left carbon deposits on the valves..."

So why would 10W-40 be a bad choice? And I figured the 0W-40 was your PERSONAL PREFERENCE, probably because you have a high performance built engine. As opposed to my fuel economic 4 BANGER, which as you stated: "You're not going to see any benefit". So why recommend it to me then?

[WarmAndSCSI]

Use whatever you want, but you'll find 0W-40 is a favorite among ALL German car enthusiasts (not to mention it's OEM-specified almost universally). Their cylinder walls and bearing surfaces are no different from your own. I could go into the technical details, but it'll just go way beyond the audience of this thread. If you don't want to try it out, then DON'T.

[IVORY_G]

Use whatever you want, but you'll find 0W-40 is a favorite among ALL German car enthusiasts (not to mention it's OEM-specified almost universally). Their cylinder walls and bearing surfaces are no different from your own. I could go into the technical details, but it'll just go way beyond the audience of this thread. If you don't want to try it out, then DON'T.

There's no reason to be fiesty about it, its that just inquiring minds want to know. And I am familiar with the search button thank you. Appreciate your knowledge, O Great Guru of the Galants! :D I'll be sure to "READ" some more on the topic.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Not being feisty, again I really don't think you're actually reading what I'm telling you. Just try it out and see if you see any benefits. Why not?

[silver_beast98]

75,000 miles isn't nearly enough to start running a thicker oil. If anything, I'd use 0W-40 Mobil 1 just like I keep telling everybody.

AMSOIL is a ripoff for people who don't really race their cars, don't worry about it.

if all the claims by these independent reviewers are really true, AMSOIL is far from a ripoff even and almost especially if it's a daily driven vehicle... of course, no matter what it's all personal preference anyhow since any decent synthetic should do just fine if not used to the point of breaking down before changing, but on all the tests AMSOIL lasted the longest...

use what you want. for now i won't pay the price for the stuff since i have oil leakage and bad valve stem seals, so no oil would really last long for me. But personally, once i build my motor that's all i intend to run...

just my .02 cents. if you can find proof that it's truly a ripoff i would love to see it. not tryin to cause shit, just don't want to waste my money if you are in fact correct...

[WarmAndSCSI]

It's a complete ripoff because there is an equivalent oil available right at your local parts store. I have used COUNTLESS kinds of synthetic oil in my engine and I tear these things down CONSTANTLY. Mobil 1 has never brought disappointment, there is no reason to use anything else.

Any way, nothing is an ultimate solution for your engine. Run an oil you like, send a sample to Blackstone Labs and draw your own conclusions. Who cares about "independent" oil analysis?

[silver_beast98]

Any way, nothing is an ultimate solution for your engine. Run an oil you like, send a sample to Blackstone Labs and draw your own conclusions. Who cares about "independent" oil analysis?

Honestly, i do... i just don't see how info can be any more factual about oil than that. I know you do tear down engines all the time and i do believe you about never having problems with your oil, but if those are true facts, than facts are facts. According to the results that i have seen, other oils aren't equivelent. Personally, if i am going to spend an arm and a leg to build a high performance motor, it would just give me a little more piece of mind to run the stuff that comes out the BEST rather than good or ok. Yet again, to each his own tho... when someone starts filling up his motor with sand he should be slapped, but other than that, if you are satisfied with what you run, than by all means run it. Personally, i dont care... but i just have no prob shelling out the dough for the best stuff, if i have it to spent that is...

[WarmAndSCSI]

Except there is no functional difference between Mobil 1 0W-40 and AMSOIL's equivalent for German/European cars. Same grade base stocks, very similar additive packages. Except the Mobil 1 is stocked at my local auto parts store and costs a fuckton less.

Your little notion is fine and dandy, except you need to realize that a TON of race teams out there have their own little preference for oil. Not ALL high performance engines should run on AMSOIL. It is NOT the defacto standard. Show me some of these independent reviews that compare old Mobil 1 (which was synthetic) or current Mobil 1 0W-40 to AMSOIL's equivalent. I simply cannot find any (minus the handy little graphs from "independent" reviews that all of AMSOIL's dealers use).

[WarmAndSCSI]

This includes German Castrol 0W-30, if you're able to find it. All in all, these are equivalent oils to what AMSOIL sells. I just love seeing these mobs of people touting AMSOIL, AMSOIL! when they really have no knowledge of engine building or the organic chemistry behind oils. How many people yelling AMSOIL! can even tell you what a PAO is?

[silver_beast98]

well i am by no means an expert. i will not try to say i am... just want to be sure about every thing, which i am starting to truly believe what you say, since tho i've never thought about it before, i really havent seen any other oil analysis that the ones amsoil claims are independent studies. Just wondering if you are SURE they are equivalent? And i intend to run a
0w-30 oil, so what do you mean by "German Castrol 0w-30"? Does that just mean that their 0w-30 oil is usually intended for German cars, or is it a different oil???

[WarmAndSCSI]

The oils are pretty damn similar. Trust me on that.

By German Castrol, I mean the Castrol Syntec that is made in Germany for European automobiles. It's hard to find, you just have to know what to look for.

[silver_beast98]

Cool... im really gonna be lookin into that. no offense on giving a hard time. just wanted to get some at least semi-factual information rather than just an oppinion even tho i do know you of all people should know your stuff. i hope you see where im coming from. Upon your insight i believe im just going to run good ol Castrol Syntec 0w-30. From checking it out on the sight, it seems that all their 0w-30 is built to meet the German standards you were talking about. Thanks for the educating...

[WarmAndSCSI]

The standard I'm familiar with is BMW LL (Long Life). It requires the oil be at least a Group IV-based oil. AKA real synthetic, not just synthetically refined. Look for that and you'll get yourself a good oil.

[silver_beast98]

Awesome. Ill remember to look for that from now on... thanks a lot for sharing this info...

[RedGalant2k1]

No, just switch. Most "switching to synthetic" horror stories are just isolated cases.


According to AMSOIL :lol: It's good stuff, but it's far from a godsend. Mobil 1 0W-40 is just as good.

Having used both in Galants I can tell you that the AMSoil is FAR better than the Mobil One.


75,000 miles isn't nearly enough to start running a thicker oil. If anything, I'd use 0W-40 Mobil 1 just like I keep telling everybody.

AMSOIL is a ripoff for people who don't really race their cars, don't worry about it.

The noticeable lifter tick with Mobil 1 and the lack thereof with AMSOil would disagree with you.

Also no one has any reason to run anything but 5w30.

[WarmAndSCSI]

Having used both in Galants I can tell you that the AMSoil is FAR better than the Mobil One.
You're comparing apples to oranges. I've used both RACING and I'll tell you they're the same. I'm talking proper Mobil 1, not the stuff they're trying to market as "synthetic" now.

[RedGalant2k1]

You're comparing apples to oranges. I've used both RACING and I'll tell you they're the same. I'm talking proper Mobil 1, not the stuff they're trying to market as "synthetic" now.

Why should racing oils be compared to street oils?

Weight for weight AMSoil far outperforms Mobil 1.

And in point I'm not comparing apples to oranges, I'm comparing my old Galant to my new Galant.

What better comparison do you want me to give?

If Mobil 1 didn't "water down" their publically availible synthetic oil maybe my entire company wouldn't be using AMSoil. Maybe our local Police and Taxi fleets wouldn't be using AMSoil either.

[WarmAndSCSI]

I don't use "racing" oils because I also street my car. I never said I used a racing oil. You're comparing a synthetic oil to a non-synthetic oil, hence my apples to oranges comment. "Far outperforms"? Where do you get this shit?

[RedGalant2k1]

I don't use "racing" oils because I also street my car. I never said I used a racing oil. You're comparing a synthetic oil to a non-synthetic oil, hence my apples to oranges comment. "Far outperforms"? Where do you get this shit?

This is my last comment to you on this thread.

I've used both commercially availible oils in both my Galants. In my personal experience AMSoil far outperforms Mobil One both in filter performance and oil performance.

I'm not basing my statements in direct opposition to you.

Its not my fault Mobil downgraded their regularly availible oil. At present I won't use anything else but AMSoil. Just remember that comes from using both in two Galants for a combined mileage exceeding 150,000 miles.

I don't give lip service to something I can't honestly support. Just get over the fact that I dislike the performance of Mobil in my cars.

[VegasMatt]

I am Team Amsoil on my new motor since I put it in last month. No issues. Before that even when I had the SDS I was running Mobile 1 with a good filter.

[Serstylz2]

Original poster, use Mobil 1 or Castrol Syntec, don't go thru the hassle of locating Amsoil, I had regular GTX in my engine and when the mechs took it out after 3k miles they said "you sure you want this oil change? This oil is PERFECT."

Granted, I'm not turbo'd

[WarmAndSCSI]

0W-40 is regularly available and it's not downgraded in any way. Some other weights of Mobil 1 are also still very high in percent of Group IV PAOs. I believe the very popular 5W-30 was one of those that now receives a large proportion of Group III hydrocracked oil. Nobody actually knows.

I'm not saying you're wrong by liking AMSOIL - it's really good stuff. I'm just citing your lack of any support as to WHY it's better. You say "performance" yet you give no evidence, even subjective.

[VegasMatt]

I think on my next oil change I may use what Warm suggested.


I use Amsoil because its cheaper at Autobacs when I pickup a case during each yearly MOD visit. :)

[WarmAndSCSI]

Here's a perfect example of AMSOIL's marketing finesse: http://www.technilube.com/faqs_info/synth_diff.php

You see these nice tables of data. They use nice cryptic terms such as "Four Ball Wear" and TBN... Problem is they don't even explain the conditions under which these tests are performed. Four Ball Wear... para. whatever. What is a para? It's clear that they chose outliers to compare their own best result to. For the TBN, it's not even specified after how many miles. My last point of criticism is the comparison of cost per mile. Complete garbage. Nobody is going to actually leave AMSOIL in their engine for 25,000 miles. That's just ignorant unless you ramp up your drain intervals while getting an oil analysis every time you increase the interval. It's called really good marketing and that's the only reason people are convinced AMSOIL is better.

[Ruslik]

thAnks for the responses everyone

[laxinwarrior]

Mobil 1 also makes a 0w-30 that is very similar to the 0w-40 synthetic. It isn't BMW LL certified but it's a much higher quality than the typical 5w-30 mobil 1. Also in my research(at least in my area), to get a synthetic that is blended from group IV base oils, the Mobil 1 is significantly cheaper than AMSOIL or Royal Purple.

Semi off-topic: http://www.eneos.us/index.php

Has anyone seen or used this brand at all? I have yet to see any research comparing this to any of the other brands discussed.

[WarmAndSCSI]

The 0W-30 is good too. GM factory fills the LS7 in the Corvette with it. It's probably also a Group IV based oil. Too thin for most force-fed engines, though.

I wonder if GReddy sells that ENEOS oil under their brand. I've never looked into it before.

edit: well I thought they filled the Corvette LS7 with that... I can't find any information to back that up, though.

[6G72gearhead]

Hondas F1 car is filled with 0w-50 Eneos oil, btw.

I've been looking into it, and I think the 0w-30 is a group IV oil, I havent found it directly, and it looks as if its just too thin for use by Porche and BMW, so maybe thats why it hasnt recieved certification.

I've been looking for an excuse to switch to a 0W-XX oil for awhile now, I may just start doing this. Especially with racing season starting, I get to bleed the brakes and do an oil change regardless of interval for the start of the season. I dunno if I will hit the gearbox or not though. Everything else will be greased or flushed.