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View Full Version : Questions about galants since u guy are pros



findingyoshie
03-06-2008, 03:10 AM
so yeah i got a 02 galant ES and a lot of my friends bash on me bout it being wack and all and i would like to know you thought like the maintence etc? well i like how the car looks and especially how u guys made and but was there major probs to the car before u guys fixed it up?

thanks

underated
03-06-2008, 03:25 AM
do you have a 4cyl or a v6?

the only real problem on the 4cyl's is people have problems with the intake manifold cracking near the throttle body flange

i can speak on the 6cyl version cuz i dont have one

Ivory8g
03-06-2008, 03:28 AM
rotors warp easily, leading to vibration at high speeds. change those out asap and you should be fine with regular maintainence.

4-G-rim
03-06-2008, 03:57 AM
When we owned our 99 Galant 4cyl we didn't have any problems with it at all. There have been known issues with the intake manifold breaking. The front rotors do tend the warp easy..but can be resolved with a nice brand of front brake rotors.

If by any chance your Galant is a dark color especially black...expect the paint to oxidize and slowly peel off which is a common problem with Mitsu dark color codes during the mid 90's to early 2000 USDM production mitsu vehicles.

gtx
03-06-2008, 05:58 AM
Just common things, radiator hoses tend to leak after a while, also check your oil cap. I'm almost at 100K so small things like these start to come up, but the brakes were the only "major" one so far. V6ers also tend to develop lifter tick.

Oh, and don't worry, it ain't no more "wack" than any other cars on the road.

00GalantMan
03-06-2008, 07:31 AM
V6ers also tend to develop lifter tick.


So do the I4's

RAZ_76
03-06-2008, 08:55 AM
I have 2 Galants a 1999 ES with 158,000 miles. Only issues I've had with it was warping rotors and I don't slam on my brakes like some assume and the Intake manifold cracked but that was at 155,000 miles. Still have the stock radiator hoses, same oil cap and same radiator cap. I guess it all depends on how well you maintain your car. My paint never peeled, flaked or anything like that. I just never used a brush, sponge on it, just water pressure from car wash and waxed it twice a year. If you are past 60,000, make sure the timing belt, water pump have been replaced, if not have them checked and possibly replaced. 300 to 700 dollar cost for that. The water pump is not a must at that time but it's a good idea since it cost about 120 bucks and you have everything apart there anyway, it will save you time and money if you do it when you do the timing belt. If you don't , you run the chance of it busting on you and then have to repeat timing on it.
No issues with my 2002 ES but it's not a daily driver either. I will maintain it the same way I did my 99 so I don't expect major issues with it. You treat it like shit and it will do the same in return.

WarmAndSCSI
03-06-2008, 08:58 AM
Don't see why everybody always says the rotors "warp." The only way that's gonna happen on the streets is if you are braking extremely hard (red hot rotors) and hit a puddle. It's just the way the pads bed into the stock rotors. Get the rotors properly resurfaced by a machine shop or somebody who has a FlexHone for rotors and accompany that with new pads and a proper bed-in procedure, and I bet the problem will go away.

I wouldn't recommend bothering with the water pump at 60,000 miles unless it's leaking. Just don't let the car get up to 200,000+ miles without changing it. Timing belt maintenance is of utmost important, however, because the 4G64 and 6G72 we have are both interference-type engines (you'll bend valves if the belt snaps). Water pumps are cheap, though, so you might as well replace it while you're in there.

WarmAndSCSI
03-06-2008, 09:24 AM
So are you telling m that I don't know how to maintain my vehicle now!! I dont brake extremel hard( red hot rotors )like you put it and hit a puddle after. I get my rotors properly resurfaced everytime I replace my pads, even if the rotor is smooth. SO now what mister expert?? He asked for issues that you have experienced not mumble and blare stuff out that you know as a general rule dude. I've had my 99 galant for 8 years and this is not my first car, I was doing brakes while you were still in diapers.
Chill out, I'm just saying 90% of the time "warped rotors" is a misnomer. I'm confused as to how you took this personally. You're not the only person in this thread who said we have a problem with "warped rotors."

findingyoshie
03-06-2008, 02:13 PM
My car is a 4cyn thanks a lot for ur answers

so basically

im going to change
intake manifold
rotors
water pump

am i right/

WarmAndSCSI
03-06-2008, 02:15 PM
No, not correct :?

Don't replace anything unless it's a regular maintenance item (when the time comes) or if it's broken. We don't even know how many miles are on your car.

spardavr4
03-06-2008, 02:30 PM
Cracked dashboard FTW!

6G72gearhead
03-06-2008, 03:36 PM
Wow, I see this going places.

Warm is 100% correct, in that having the rotors proporly resurfaced and not buying the cheapest ones out there is a really good start in not having them warp.

However I have warped my powerslots and I really dont get how people can get off saying that its a problem with the car. Fuck I never ever had a problem with it until I started racing.

Coming off the track with the rotors glowing red is probably the best way to warp them, I have put my rotors which where designed for street use through eleventybillion percent more abuse then most of you put them through, I understand that they have the right to be warped.

On the good side I have yet to replace my alternator, starter, or much else that seems to go frequently on other models, I have only had it break a couple times that was not done by my own hand.

WarmAndSCSI
03-06-2008, 03:37 PM
On the good side I have yet to replace my alternator, starter, or much else that seems to go frequently on other models, I have only had it break a couple times that was not done by my own hand.
Never had any problems with my alternator, but I have fried several starters. Make sure you never lug on these starters when the engine won't crank over (a problem when you have aftermarket fuel and ignition management). They overheat quickly and burn through the wires. Battery health is of utmost importance. The lower the voltage, the more amperage the starter is going to draw. Caught one on fire once, actually. Glad I have a manual now for push-starting ;)

99 galant
03-06-2008, 03:41 PM
My car is a 4cyn thanks a lot for ur answers

so basically

im going to change
intake manifold
rotors
water pump

am i right/

my car has 103k (V6) and the only prob i have is shitty gas miles. i need a full tune up. hopefully i can go from the 18mpg to the 28 that alot of other V6 G's get. and i DONT drive like i stole it. at first maybe :lol: but now no. gas is too high to waste it just hear the car go WOT

QnzMostWanted
03-06-2008, 03:42 PM
i love hearing my galant at WOT

6G72gearhead
03-06-2008, 03:42 PM
I havent had any problems, the one time I had to put a battery in it it kinda drug on once then nothing, wouldnt start at all. Yeah 5spd's make the world a much simpler place.

6G72gearhead
03-06-2008, 03:43 PM
I only get 20 mph in town. 18 isnt too far off.

QnzMostWanted
03-06-2008, 03:43 PM
kickstarts ftw

WarmAndSCSI
03-06-2008, 03:44 PM
i love hearing my galant at WOT
It's even better when you've got something under the hood ;) (that doesn't sound like a Honda, either)

Any way, why is this in "Car Care Products"? lol

QnzMostWanted
03-06-2008, 03:45 PM
It's even better when you've got something under the hood ;) (that doesn't sound like a Honda, either)

Any way, why is this in "Car Care Products"? lol

well maintenance is car care technically...

99 galant
03-06-2008, 03:46 PM
I only get 20 mph in town. 18 isnt too far off.

i hear people talking about 300 a tank on city with their V6s and i have never seen above 240 on any one of my tanks... lol lemme refraise that as 11-12 gallons which means when i got the 240 i was hitting around 22mpg but usually i get 18. i know i need a tune up tho, i put some fuel injector cleaner in yesterday, trying that out first

QnzMostWanted i love hearing my galant at WOT

me too, but i just leave it alone unless im on the highway :D

99 galant
03-06-2008, 03:54 PM
anyways back on topic, i too have the vibration in the steering wheel at high speeds, could it be my rotors. ive heard so many different reasons for the vibrations

WarmAndSCSI
03-06-2008, 03:55 PM
Guys, come on. Way to ruin a perfectly decent discussion.

Thanks, silverlightning, thanks.

RAZ_76
03-06-2008, 03:58 PM
Vibrations from your rotors would be when you stepped on them at high speeds, then you would know because the entire car would start to vibrate, if it does it just because then there are more issues like need to grease or replace ball joints, tie rod ends need to be replaced, need to balance tires..etc.

spardavr4
03-06-2008, 03:59 PM
anyways back on topic, i too have the vibration in the steering wheel at high speeds, could it be my rotors. ive heard so many different reasons for the vibrations

Balance your tires dude. If they aren't balanced you can get vibrations. I forgot what my dad told me but at high speeds it's usually your back tires that aren't balanced. Correct me if I'm wrong Mr. Smartpants-es.

DOHCstunr
03-06-2008, 04:01 PM
Flush yoru brake lines completely out with some high quality dot 4 or 5.1 brake fluid. you'll get even padwear and brakeforce distribution. and more than likely... you'll stop warping rotors.


Cleaned up the BS...please stay on topic. VM

RedGalant2k1
03-06-2008, 09:02 PM
I've never replaced anything out of the ordinary on either of my Galants.

The water pump should be replaced along with the timing belt replacement, ALWAYS. If for nothing else to save the hassle of replacing it "only when its leaking". Check your owners manual or any regular maintenance schedule for any vehicle and you'll see the timing belt and water pump to be changed at the same time.

6G72gearhead
03-06-2008, 10:39 PM
I didnt change my water pump at 60k. I dont think anything will happen to it until 120k.

RedGalant2k1
03-06-2008, 10:53 PM
I didnt change my water pump at 60k. I dont think anything will happen to it until 120k.

Why risk the engine over a choice to not replace a $100 water pump?

RAZ_76
03-06-2008, 10:55 PM
I have always done it that way because that's what my mentor told me to do 17 years ago. I have always done it that way simply because it's cheaper that way and I don't have to wonder exactly when that water pump will start to leak on me. Some people are risk takers though and must learn the hard way sometime and I prefer to let them.

6G72gearhead
03-06-2008, 11:04 PM
Why? Hell the motor will probably get totally rebuilt at 100k, and a leak in the waterpump is going to develope gradually and not explosivly, I will notice it when it starts leaking. If I havent totally rebuilt the motor I will do the timing belt at 120k or when the water pump starts leaking, its not a big deal. Right now its on to a head rebuild and a coolent flush.

RAZ_76
03-06-2008, 11:09 PM
Why does anyone need to rebuild at 100K, my Galant is at 158000K and I'm not looking to rebuild anything, replacing it will ensure a dependable car, worries free. Besides every car will go at diffrent times and sometimes they go fast and not just leak like you think. Been there.

6G72gearhead
03-06-2008, 11:21 PM
Well seeing as I have been using my car as a racecar, I'm hoping to have money for my all motor build by 100k, so its a little like TJ's rebuild, except hopefully less problematic. Thus why I am picking up a Volvo 240 to drive around at school, so the galant may not see 90k for a long ass time.

WarmAndSCSI
03-06-2008, 11:25 PM
Well seeing as I have been using my car as a racecar, I'm hoping to have money for my all motor build by 100k, so its a little like TJ's rebuild, except hopefully less problematic. Thus why I am picking up a Volvo 240 to drive around at school, so the galant may not see 90k for a long ass time.
My rebuild is not problematic :p

6G72gearhead
03-06-2008, 11:50 PM
No not at all, just like I dont masturbate twice a day.

Ivory8g
03-07-2008, 12:12 AM
haha wtf 6g72 haha

6G72gearhead
03-07-2008, 12:15 AM
If you have paid attention to the random thoughts thread you would know that this isnt out of the ordinary as far as my commentary goes.

Ivory8g
03-07-2008, 12:37 AM
lol that would explain it haha i never really go in there much

6G72gearhead
03-07-2008, 12:38 AM
Its worth an occasional visit.

RedGalant2k1
03-07-2008, 09:02 AM
Why? Hell the motor will probably get totally rebuilt at 100k, and a leak in the waterpump is going to develope gradually and not explosivly, I will notice it when it starts leaking. If I havent totally rebuilt the motor I will do the timing belt at 120k or when the water pump starts leaking, its not a big deal. Right now its on to a head rebuild and a coolent flush.

The water pump is as likely as anything else to fail all at once. My wife was driving to her parents house one day and her water pump impeller shredded itself. The car NEVER leaked coolant, not even from the weep hole in the water pump.

Vehicle manufacturers don't put maintenence schedules together for fun, they do it for proper maintenence of their vehicles. Risk what you want, but regardless my statement stands, why even risk a leaking water pump? Replace it at EVERY change of your timing belt.

WarmAndSCSI
03-07-2008, 10:47 AM
The water pump is as likely as anything else to fail all at once. My wife was driving to her parents house one day and her water pump impeller shredded itself. The car NEVER leaked coolant, not even from the weep hole in the water pump.

Vehicle manufacturers don't put maintenence schedules together for fun, they do it for proper maintenence of their vehicles. Risk what you want, but regardless my statement stands, why even risk a leaking water pump? Replace it at EVERY change of your timing belt.

I agree to an extent, but the impeller on the water pumps we have should never shatter. Some cars have plastic impellers and I've heard about those failing quite often. What usually goes wrong on our water pumps is the pulley. You'll start to hear the bearings going out with plenty of time to replace the pump, so it's not a life-or-death scenario.

RAZ_76
03-07-2008, 11:14 AM
You'll start to hear the bearings going out with plenty of time to replace the pump, so it's not a life-or-death scenario.


I agree but if you don't know crap about a car, a noise means nothing. Do you agree though that it is wise and good idea to replace it while doing the timing belt to save money since everything is apart anyway??

99 galant
03-07-2008, 11:16 AM
ive heard that before, whats the harm to change it early and save a few $

RAZ_76
03-07-2008, 11:26 AM
No harm, just some people speak from experience and some just read somewhere what could happen.

WarmAndSCSI
03-07-2008, 11:27 AM
I agree but if you don't know crap about a car, a noise means nothing. Do you agree though that it is wise and good idea to replace it while doing the timing belt to save money since everything is apart anyway??

Yep, very wise.

Rusty
03-07-2008, 11:59 PM
Balance your tires dude. If they aren't balanced you can get vibrations. I forgot what my dad told me but at high speeds it's usually your back tires that aren't balanced. Correct me if I'm wrong Mr. Smartpants-es.

ok, i balance tires all day every day. and unless the customer pays for a 4 wheel balance, i only balance the front tires. im not saying its right, but tire techs are usually swamped with cars, so we get stuff done as fast as possible. plus if the rear tires are only lets say 1/2 oz. off, its not gonna be that noticeable.

but if all four wheels are balanced, then at high speeds the wheels are balanced. well unless the shop doesnt have a high speed balancer. most do tho. if it is computerised (most are) the wheels shouldnt have and vibration at any speed.

vibration at the steering wheel could be caused by one or more of the following: out of round wheels, bad alignment, bad suspension, worn control arm bushings, worn ball joints, worn tie rods, wheel balance, separated tire(s), im sure im missing something, but im on my pain meds right now and cant think straight...

findingyoshie
04-19-2008, 05:30 AM
ok, i balance tires all day every day. and unless the customer pays for a 4 wheel balance, i only balance the front tires. im not saying its right, but tire techs are usually swamped with cars, so we get stuff done as fast as possible. plus if the rear tires are only lets say 1/2 oz. off, its not gonna be that noticeable.

but if all four wheels are balanced, then at high speeds the wheels are balanced. well unless the shop doesnt have a high speed balancer. most do tho. if it is computerised (most are) the wheels shouldnt have and vibration at any speed.

vibration at the steering wheel could be caused by one or more of the following: out of round wheels, bad alignment, bad suspension, worn control arm bushings, worn ball joints, worn tie rods, wheel balance, separated tire(s), im sure im missing something, but im on my pain meds right now and cant think straight...

i would say re surface rotors cause it happened to me and now it doesnt shake