speakers and body kit help

[blackgalant_02]

hey guys well first off i wanna get rid of my stock speakers in my car and get some new ones some that hit kinda hard and do i need like a different battery or new wiring for more power for the speakers ?? and im getting a new cyber 2 body kit so i need tips on what to do for starters??

[Serstylz2]

front speakers, or back?

interior speakers really aren't supposed to play bass, a subwoofer handles that better

[Trevs56]

hey guys well first off i wanna get rid of my stock speakers in my car and get some new ones some that hit kinda hard and do i need like a different battery or new wiring for more power for the speakers ?? and im getting a new cyber 2 body kit so i need tips on what to do for starters??

cool love to see systems in a car. its better to run aftermarket speaker wire for better signal response. but u dont need to go nuts buying super expensive cable like monster cable, unless ur trying to win USAC stereo competitions or something. a friend of mine needed 17 feet of 0 gauge power wire by monster cable an it cost him 6 dollars a foot, an to me thats just overkill. i would reccomend a good battery like an Optima Yellow Top deep cycle and if ur running super high wattage consider a 1 farad cap. our cars are set up for a 25 series type battery an u can find the yellow top in a D75-25 series battery with the + and - terminals located in ideal spots. an 1 farad caps u can get from lightning audio for like 60 bucks. the true bitch in our cars is running the actual speaker wire to the front doors, its tough to fish it thru that small channel into the actual door opening. the rear speakers are a pain to remove but not overly tough.

as far as ur body kit u plan to install, id just complete one thing at a time. get ur system in then focus on the body work. body work is super time consuming and needs high attention to detail.

[Trevs56]

front speakers, or back?

interior speakers really aren't supposed to play bass, a subwoofer handles that better

ya i got a total of 8 speakers inside my 8g with a set of boston acoustic Pro 6.5 3 ways up front. the 1 inch tweets are for highs, the 4 inch speakers for mids an the 6 inch woofer on the bottom is for some small bass. the rear deck i replaced the stock speakers with boston 6 x 9's an there just for rear fill. the sub i have i never got around to installing. matter of fact its for sale.
its an MTX RFL 152. power output on it 4000 peak watts an 2000 RMS. but ya hes right the sub is where ur bass will come in.

[esogalant]

hey guys well first off i wanna get rid of my stock speakers in my car and get some new ones some that hit kinda hard and do i need like a different battery or new wiring for more power for the speakers ?? and im getting a new cyber 2 body kit so i need tips on what to do for starters??

I just finally put a new system in my car. Pioneer all around. Best buy has Pioneer speakers on sale for 50% off. That's a steal. The dope thing about the G is that the rears are 6x9's which gives you more bass than say 6 1/2 or 6 3/4. I also just bought a infinity basslink power sub for more bass. If you want punching bass get a sub. I opted for the power sub with a amp in it to save trunk space, that I need. I say do the system then the kit. It a bit less expensive and easier to do. At least from my point of view... But what do I know I'm just a newbie here as well.

[blackgalant_02]

cool love to see systems in a car. its better to run aftermarket speaker wire for better signal response. but u dont need to go nuts buying super expensive cable like monster cable, unless ur trying to win USAC stereo competitions or something. a friend of mine needed 17 feet of 0 gauge power wire by monster cable an it cost him 6 dollars a foot, an to me thats just overkill. i would reccomend a good battery like an Optima Yellow Top deep cycle and if ur running super high wattage consider a 1 farad cap. our cars are set up for a 25 series type battery an u can find the yellow top in a D75-25 series battery with the + and - terminals located in ideal spots. an 1 farad caps u can get from lightning audio for like 60 bucks. the true bitch in our cars is running the actual speaker wire to the front doors, its tough to fish it thru that small channel into the actual door opening. the rear speakers are a pain to remove but not overly tough.

as far as ur body kit u plan to install, id just complete one thing at a time. get ur system in then focus on the body work. body work is super time consuming and needs high attention to detail.

so what your saying is when i but new aftermarket speakers i should buy new wires i mean i just got a new battery for my car so i dont need that and then 1 farad cap?? it it will sound way better then the stock

[Galant306m]

so what your saying is when i but new aftermarket speakers i should buy new wires i mean i just got a new battery for my car so i dont need that and then 1 farad cap?? it it will sound way better then the stock

You really dont need to run new wires, waste of time for no noticeable difference. As for the battery just go with a red top Optima they are very nice batteries and they will have the size that will fit your G. The blue top's are the deep cycles that are used for boats and other personal crafts not a good idea to use one, and the yellow ones are only really benifical if you are wiring them in a series if you ever see someone running hydraulics you will most likely see yellow top batteries wired in a series. IMO just hook up your new speakers to the stock wires using solder and heat shrink and it will sound fine. If you are looking to get subs i would recommend getting two tens or one twelve, anything bigger then that would just sound sloppy, and two twelves start to sound sloppy also.

For the bodykit i couldnt help you out on that cause ive never installed one and dont really plan too.

[rez887]

You need 4 speakers, 4channel amp, subwoofers, seperate amp for subwoofers, amp kit, capacitor and ...

[paparishi90]

If you wanna do it right its gonna cost money like everything else.
You need 6x9's in the rear and the front is a bit tricky because they are 6.75 in and most speakers you find are 6.5. Infinity speakers come with an adapter or you can do what i did and press the lip out of the metal and use that extra room to bolt on your speakers. I would suggest running at least 8 gauge to the 4 channel, if you want a 4 channel and a 4 to the mono, or two 4 gauges to both mono and 4 channel (which is what i do). You can also run speakers off the deck but i suggest you get a pioneer or kenwood aftermarket one because they put about 22 watts rms to each channel. To install the rear speakers you have to take the back seat out which is done by pulling to loops at the bottom of the seat and unbolting the back. If you go for woofers and have the time build a custom box, you will be happier and it should sound cleaner if you got the right amount of airspace. Stay away from ported and plexiglass boxes, they will only be loud but not clean. The rest is all on your preference.

[Trevs56]

so what your saying is when i but new aftermarket speakers i should buy new wires i mean i just got a new battery for my car so i dont need that and then 1 farad cap?? it it will sound way better then the stock

i always reccomend new speaker wire for better signal response and you WILL see a difference when changing to aftermarket wires. the stock wires are such a tiny guage to begin with and if u wanna solder old wire to new speakers go right ahead, i wouldnt do it. never have and wouldnt.

as far as the 1 farad cap i was reccomending that if ur gonna go into excessively high wattage, for example over 1500 watts. or to take some strain off ur alternator or if u have a super powerful sub that can generate over 1000 watts by itself, id really reccomend a cheap 1 farad cap.

[duh2150]

jsut get a player that plays cd's fo the inside, no need for an amp, mine are screaming loud, i dont even turn it up that loud pointless

aka you odnt need nothing just put them in and a good headunit and them capacitor are shit, you still gotta use the battery, its jsut a second battery, when its juice runs out from hitting so much, ill just pull from the battery anyways until the capacitor is refilled, it jsut delays the draw from the battery

[fliegendaffe]

if you want good speakers and them to be louder, look for the following:

1) high sensitivity
2) wide frequency range
3) Amp for loudness + more power

[Trevs56]

jsut get a player that plays cd's fo the inside, no need for an amp, mine are screaming loud, i dont even turn it up that loud pointless

aka you odnt need nothing just put them in and a good headunit and them capacitor are shit, you still gotta use the battery, its jsut a second battery, when its juice runs out from hitting so much, ill just pull from the battery anyways until the capacitor is refilled, it jsut delays the draw from the battery

a head unit with aftermarket speakers and no amp.. thats like buying a ferrari with a 2 cylinder engine. thats probably one of the dumbest bits of information ive heard given to someone. an in ur mind if u think ur speakers are screaming loud, enter a basic stereo competition even in the lowest of ranks and turn on ur speakers next to some other guys car that has even a simple 2 channel amp and u wont be able to hear a thing out of ur speakers even at full volume.

[duh2150]

dude 50 watts is alot of watts for just listening now if you wanna go into a compitition yeah, look at how many posts that guy has made, it doesnt say anywhere he needs to blow his ears out, for me i can open my windows in the garage and walk down the street about 8 houses down and still hear the lyrics, i dont thin khe needs to go deaf over some speakers IMO no need for a amp for inside speakers

[ZigenScarface]

this whole thread is makin my head hurt, u guys.

[youngin3]

I just finally put a new system in my car. Pioneer all around. Best buy has Pioneer speakers on sale for 50% off. That's a steal. The dope thing about the G is that the rears are 6x9's which gives you more bass than say 6 1/2 or 6 3/4. I also just bought a infinity basslink power sub for more bass. If you want punching bass get a sub. I opted for the power sub with a amp in it to save trunk space, that I need. I say do the system then the kit. It a bit less expensive and easier to do. At least from my point of view... But what do I know I'm just a newbie here as well.

Most of what you have gotten here is good. If you can find a good set of 6.75 speakers for the front doors, then go for it. If not, a bracket is not very hard to find.

6x9 speakers in the rear deck, and you can easily get 2 10" or 12" subs in the back. I would recommend 1 12" sub on a small amp. You can even get a four channel amp and hook up all four of the front speakers on two of the channels and bridge the other two channels for the sub.

That is what I did, and it sounds great at moderate volumes. It is also great for someone who is on a budget. (Like me. Call me cheap, I don't care.)


so what your saying is when i but new aftermarket speakers i should buy new wires i mean i just got a new battery for my car so i dont need that and then 1 farad cap?? it it will sound way better then the stock

If you are just getting new speakers, you aren't even close to needing a new battery. If you get an amp, maybe, depending on how much power it pulls. I have a 350 watt amp in my car with an aftermarked head unit that pushes 200 watts, and my battery is doing fine.


You really dont need to run new wires, waste of time for no noticeable difference. As for the battery just go with a red top Optima they are very nice batteries and they will have the size that will fit your G. The blue top's are the deep cycles that are used for boats and other personal crafts not a good idea to use one, and the yellow ones are only really benifical if you are wiring them in a series if you ever see someone running hydraulics you will most likely see yellow top batteries wired in a series. IMO just hook up your new speakers to the stock wires using solder and heat shrink and it will sound fine. If you are looking to get subs i would recommend getting two tens or one twelve, anything bigger then that would just sound sloppy, and two twelves start to sound sloppy also.

For the bodykit i couldnt help you out on that cause ive never installed one and dont really plan too.

New wires will sound better, but only at high volumes when more throughput is needed.

Those batteries would not be wired in series either, that would put out 28 volts for just two of them. That is too much for a car. It would be parallel.

Don't solder the wires to the speaker, just in case you need to change them out. Crimp some ends on to the wires and just plug them in. It will be just as good.

2 12" subs only starts to sound sloppy if you under power them or listen to rock music with a double bass kick on the drums. If you get something other than the WalMart Lighning Audio, Sony or low end pioneer crap they have then it won't sound good at all.


a head unit with aftermarket speakers and no amp.. thats like buying a ferrari with a 2 cylinder engine. thats probably one of the dumbest bits of information ive heard given to someone. an in ur mind if u think ur speakers are screaming loud, enter a basic stereo competition even in the lowest of ranks and turn on ur speakers next to some other guys car that has even a simple 2 channel amp and u wont be able to hear a thing out of ur speakers even at full volume.

Lightning audio isn't the best out there either. Don't bank on them being reliable. Their amps smell really bad when they burn up because they can't push what they claim on the box.

[ZigenScarface]

all the kid wanted was some speakers lol he didnt ask for a full system, just get some polks for the front n a set of kicker 6x9's in the back n ull b happy. do you have the infinity system in your car now? if you do its going to need a rewire plus u have spots for tweeters so you could go with component set without too much modification to make them fit, actually very little, just fit the speakers, if you want to go further then that with a 4 ch ect, id just reccoment getting a new deck so you have preouts, if your not looking for anything crazy just get your 4 speakers and then one of those infinity baselink subs

[racesnos]

cool love to see systems in a car. its better to run aftermarket speaker wire for better signal response. but u dont need to go nuts buying super expensive cable like monster cable, unless ur trying to win USAC stereo competitions or something. a friend of mine needed 17 feet of 0 gauge power wire by monster cable an it cost him 6 dollars a foot, an to me thats just overkill. i would reccomend a good battery like an Optima Yellow Top deep cycle and if ur running super high wattage consider a 1 farad cap. our cars are set up for a 25 series type battery an u can find the yellow top in a D75-25 series battery with the + and - terminals located in ideal spots. an 1 farad caps u can get from lightning audio for like 60 bucks. the true bitch in our cars is running the actual speaker wire to the front doors, its tough to fish it thru that small channel into the actual door opening. the rear speakers are a pain to remove but not overly tough.

as far as ur body kit u plan to install, id just complete one thing at a time. get ur system in then focus on the body work. body work is super time consuming and needs high attention to detail.

I am going to agree here, sytems are amazing to hear and see in cars. The 8G has a lot of potential also, if you can do it right. I agree also that you do not need the most expensive wires out there as long as they are consistent and can perform well. If you got the hook-ups to get Monster Cable and nice name brands like that, power to you and go for it if it's cost efficient. Red-Tops are for bigger engines that need more "turning o"n ability. Yellow-Tops are ideally for those that run stereo systems in their cars, like this thread is about. and yes the blue-tops are for marine usages and small active vehicles. Always look into a capacitor and yes 1 farad is good enough for a small system.


ya i got a total of 8 speakers inside my 8g with a set of boston acoustic Pro 6.5 3 ways up front. the 1 inch tweets are for highs, the 4 inch speakers for mids an the 6 inch woofer on the bottom is for some small bass. the rear deck i replaced the stock speakers with boston 6 x 9's an there just for rear fill. the sub i have i never got around to installing. matter of fact its for sale.
its an MTX RFL 152. power output on it 4000 peak watts an 2000 RMS. but ya hes right the sub is where ur bass will come in.

thats a damn nice system you have there! i am very impressed. it kind of reminds me of the one i have haha. i also have Boston Acoustics and i am damn impressed with it. i have two full component systems and i am running those off... well let me list what i have in the car...

1. Two (2) Boston Acoustics Component Systems
2. Alpine 540 V12 4 channel amplifier with 750W max 65 RMS to each speaker
3. Two Alpine Type-R 12" subwoofers (4 ohm)
4. One (1) JL Audio 1000/1 Monoblock amplifier
5. Pioneer AVIC-D3 Navgiation headunit
6. Audiobahn 12 farad (yes 12 farad) capacitor
7. 0 gauge wire from Optima Yellow-Top to Capacitor which branches to two (2) four gauge wires to each amp
8. All independently wired speakers
9. DYNAMAT entire car


You really dont need to run new wires, waste of time for no noticeable difference. As for the battery just go with a red top Optima they are very nice batteries and they will have the size that will fit your G. The blue top's are the deep cycles that are used for boats and other personal crafts not a good idea to use one, and the yellow ones are only really benifical if you are wiring them in a series if you ever see someone running hydraulics you will most likely see yellow top batteries wired in a series. IMO just hook up your new speakers to the stock wires using solder and heat shrink and it will sound fine. If you are looking to get subs i would recommend getting two tens or one twelve, anything bigger then that would just sound sloppy, and two twelves start to sound sloppy also.

i agree with the battery thing but i have two 12's and i have never had one bad comment about "sloppy sound" now i'm not trying to sound offensive and if i am i apologize in advance but it mightbe because i insulated the entire car from front to back/side to side. flooring, trunk, lining of the trunk, all four doors, headliner also, i did it all. believe it or not, it was all free haha. but yeah it can get bad sound but if you EQ it all right and even the sound out (i.e. not too much highs or lows you'll be fine regardless of what system you have in your car.


If you wanna do it right its gonna cost money like everything else.
You need 6x9's in the rear and the front is a bit tricky because they are 6.75 in and most speakers you find are 6.5. Infinity speakers come with an adapter or you can do what i did and press the lip out of the metal and use that extra room to bolt on your speakers. I would suggest running at least 8 gauge to the 4 channel, if you want a 4 channel and a 4 to the mono, or two 4 gauges to both mono and 4 channel (which is what i do). You can also run speakers off the deck but i suggest you get a pioneer or kenwood aftermarket one because they put about 22 watts rms to each channel. To install the rear speakers you have to take the back seat out which is done by pulling to loops at the bottom of the seat and unbolting the back. If you go for woofers and have the time build a custom box, you will be happier and it should sound cleaner if you got the right amount of airspace. Stay away from ported and plexiglass boxes, they will only be loud but not clean. The rest is all on your preference.

i want to agree with everything said here. I want to add that i have seen a lot of installs and if your running only one amp for subs, make sure the amp is sufficient enough to push the subs rather than the subs having to try and pull power from the amp. in this case, 4 gauge wire will be the best installment option for you!


dude 50 watts is alot of watts for just listening now if you wanna go into a compitition yeah, look at how many posts that guy has made, it doesnt say anywhere he needs to blow his ears out, for me i can open my windows in the garage and walk down the street about 8 houses down and still hear the lyrics, i dont thin khe needs to go deaf over some speakers IMO no need for a amp for inside speakers

true ture. it's a nice investment in the longer run haha :)

[Trevs56]

thats a damn nice system you have there! i am very impressed. it kind of reminds me of the one i have haha. i also have Boston Acoustics and i am damn impressed with it. i have two full component systems and i am running those off... well let me list what i have in the car...

1. Two (2) Boston Acoustics Component Systems
2. Alpine 540 V12 4 channel amplifier with 750W max 65 RMS to each speaker
3. Two Alpine Type-R 12" subwoofers (4 ohm)
4. One (1) JL Audio 1000/1 Monoblock amplifier
5. Pioneer AVIC-D3 Navgiation headunit
6. Audiobahn 12 farad (yes 12 farad) capacitor
7. 0 gauge wire from Optima Yellow-Top to Capacitor which branches to two (2) four gauge wires to each amp
8. All independently wired speakers
9. DYNAMAT entire car


-- ya thats a nice system u have as well. total package on that id say. my list of parts is..

1- Eclipse 55040 w/ ECOM head unit
2- Boston Acoustics Pro 6.5 3 ways front. (1 in tweets, 4.5 in mids, 6 in woofer)
3- Boston RM-9 6x9s in the rear shelf
4- 14 guage JL speaker wire to all speakers
5- JL 450/4 4 channel amp (runs the 6.5 3 way setup)
6- JL 300/2 2 channel amp (for 6 x 9s)
7- Xtreme Dynamat inside doors and rear shelf
8- Streetwires 2 gauge wire running from Duralast yellow top battery to JL distribution block in back ( 2 into 4 guage ) an Streetwires 4 guage going to the amps
9- JL 200 amp fuse in the engine bay

have a sub but never got around to installing it. o well.

[jonk8123]

i wouldn't get a cap its just causing more problems. its just a cover up for the battery, its really not doing anything but covering up your voltage problem. your batterys are gonna die out quick and so will your alternator. get a deep cycle battery and like he said upgrade your wiring. It all depends on what size system you get, if you get dimming you need more power and thats when you get a battery, upgraded alternator replace your wiring from your alternator to your battery, and maybe even a second battery. caps not gonna do anything but hide it from what you see, but your alternator and batteries are still taking the beating. If you don't know a lot about car systems i would start searching and reading more about it. If you dont already have a head unit start with that. but dont waste the money on a cap your just covering the problem rather then fixing it.