rizvfe01
05-20-2008, 11:04 PM
1996 Mitsubishi Galant ES, Auto
Scenario of death:
1)Car has had starting problems for about 6 months, when key was turned sometimes it just clicked and no crank and after several tries it would crank slowly kind of like *coughing* and start.
2)Gave car a tune-up, replaced cap, rotor, plugs, and wires
3)Replaced fuel filter 6 weeks ago hoping it was clogged and causing the issue, while removing the fuel filter I believe i twisted the fuel line so that it was kinked (car started and ran fine for 3 weeks). After replacement, starting problem was slightly better, took less cranks to start and sometimes it started on first try.
4)Two weeks ago car was near empty and while pulling into gas station car was sputtering and died. Filled gas in car, car started briefly sputtered again and died. Hasn't been able to start since. I tried leaving the key in "on" position to build up fuel pressure and removed gas cap no pressure noise while removal, it seems liked the car wasn't getting fuel
Tried Solutions:
1)Took car to mechanic. First mechanic claimed car's fuel pressure was low and the fuel pump was dead. After further diagnosis he said the fuel pump was fine and it was the kink in the fuel line was causing low pressure.
2)He charged me $300 and replaced the metal fuel line that connects to the bottom of the fuel filter. He then said fuel pressure was fine now and the car still had the same problem
3)Next he said the car was not getting spark, so he replaced the distributor, cost me $200, and since the car did not start even after replacing the distributor he did not charge me for labor
4)I now have the car back and am trying to diagnose the issue myself.
Here is my diagnosis:
1) Checked for spark. Tried two different plugs. Pulled out plug and wire. Placed plug in wire and put threads of plug on ground in engine bay while cranking. No spark for either.
2) Fuel pump connector is getting voltage during cranking. I do not hear fuel pump turn on while cranking. Pulled off test connector on firewall and gave it 12v and the fuel pump turns on.
3) Checked relays under dash on radio side. There are two black relays and both click when the car actually cranks. (sometimes the car doesn't crank there are just clicks in the engine bay)
4) Checked all engine grounds, seem okay. Battery voltage was low so car was hooked up to jumper cables during all tests.
5) Starter is getting voltage and was tested by mechanic seems to be fine
6) CPS sensor is getting voltage during cranking starts with 12v and drops to about 6v
Questions:
1) Are there any other tests I can run to determine whether CPS is bad or not? (I believe this is the problem)
2) Could ECU have gone bad? I hear they do not go bad on these cars very often
3) How hard is the replacement of a CPS sensor?
4) How can I test the fuel injectors? a diode?
If anyone has any further input, I would love to hear it. This is my daily driver so, I am having so much trouble getting around to school and work.
Scenario of death:
1)Car has had starting problems for about 6 months, when key was turned sometimes it just clicked and no crank and after several tries it would crank slowly kind of like *coughing* and start.
2)Gave car a tune-up, replaced cap, rotor, plugs, and wires
3)Replaced fuel filter 6 weeks ago hoping it was clogged and causing the issue, while removing the fuel filter I believe i twisted the fuel line so that it was kinked (car started and ran fine for 3 weeks). After replacement, starting problem was slightly better, took less cranks to start and sometimes it started on first try.
4)Two weeks ago car was near empty and while pulling into gas station car was sputtering and died. Filled gas in car, car started briefly sputtered again and died. Hasn't been able to start since. I tried leaving the key in "on" position to build up fuel pressure and removed gas cap no pressure noise while removal, it seems liked the car wasn't getting fuel
Tried Solutions:
1)Took car to mechanic. First mechanic claimed car's fuel pressure was low and the fuel pump was dead. After further diagnosis he said the fuel pump was fine and it was the kink in the fuel line was causing low pressure.
2)He charged me $300 and replaced the metal fuel line that connects to the bottom of the fuel filter. He then said fuel pressure was fine now and the car still had the same problem
3)Next he said the car was not getting spark, so he replaced the distributor, cost me $200, and since the car did not start even after replacing the distributor he did not charge me for labor
4)I now have the car back and am trying to diagnose the issue myself.
Here is my diagnosis:
1) Checked for spark. Tried two different plugs. Pulled out plug and wire. Placed plug in wire and put threads of plug on ground in engine bay while cranking. No spark for either.
2) Fuel pump connector is getting voltage during cranking. I do not hear fuel pump turn on while cranking. Pulled off test connector on firewall and gave it 12v and the fuel pump turns on.
3) Checked relays under dash on radio side. There are two black relays and both click when the car actually cranks. (sometimes the car doesn't crank there are just clicks in the engine bay)
4) Checked all engine grounds, seem okay. Battery voltage was low so car was hooked up to jumper cables during all tests.
5) Starter is getting voltage and was tested by mechanic seems to be fine
6) CPS sensor is getting voltage during cranking starts with 12v and drops to about 6v
Questions:
1) Are there any other tests I can run to determine whether CPS is bad or not? (I believe this is the problem)
2) Could ECU have gone bad? I hear they do not go bad on these cars very often
3) How hard is the replacement of a CPS sensor?
4) How can I test the fuel injectors? a diode?
If anyone has any further input, I would love to hear it. This is my daily driver so, I am having so much trouble getting around to school and work.