Phizzalot's Turbo Build (In Process)

[phizzalot]

So I decided to make a new thread since I have pased the point of collecting parts for my turbo build and have acctually started to install them.

So here are a few photos and a litttle description..

Here is an overall view, (don't mind the radiator, I will be replacing it)
http://www.a10chun.com/images/turbo4.jpg

Here is a close up of the outlet of the turbo where i used a 2.25 elbow to conect to a modified 2g intake tube. ( Iam going to a clamp to the rubber side soon just don't have any that fit now)
http://www.a10chun.com/images/turbo1.jpg

Here is how the intake and maft will sit. ( iwill proably make a little brackt to hold it away from the enging mount)
http://www.a10chun.com/images/turbo2.jpg

Here we have the injector rewire (it pretty messy now but it'll work for the meantime)
http://www.a10chun.com/images/turbo3.jpg

other things I have done but haven't taken pictures of are the 2g oilpan install, downpipe and Safc.

Onlly problem i ran into so far was with forgetting to remove the 1g o2sensor and replacing it with the one from my galant. Is there a way to rewire the 1g o2sensor to make it work with the galant?

Thanx for looking, any comments welcome. I will be up dating tommorow afternoon when I run more intercooler piping.

[seth98esT]

If your wiring is right, go ahead and save yourself the headache and get rid of those connectors. Solder the connections and use some heat shrink, you will thank me later.

Otherwise, looks good so far. Interesting location for the intake pipe.

[Ivory8g]

word! I was wondering what to do about that intake pipe. nice idea

[DOHCstunr]

nice idea on the intake pipe.

Your wiring(no offense)
is the worst i've ever seen.
Not trying to be a dick.....
but you really need to put more effort into it.
would have been better off loosely twisting wires together and wrapping it with electrical tape.

[Johnathansgalant]

phizz finally --- just gimme ur o2 sensor i need one -- but if u wish to use it u gotta cut the harness and solder the 4 wires to ur old o2s harness

[phizzalot]

Thanx seth, Any Ideas on the o2 rewire? This is the first time I've ever used conectors, They worked well on my TT instal for my evo and safc Install for the galant so I though Id give it a go.

Oh Dohc No offense taken... I almost take it as a compliment since i will be remebered for something unique in this instal LOL :)

I don't have acess to any electrical outlet where iam doing this so later Ill clean it up...
I know theres not a lot of airflow in that area but it should work for the moment.

Thanx for the compliments everyone, I know this install is way passed due :)

[DOHCstunr]

i'll definatly never forget that picture.

you can solder with a lighter and fluxcore solder.
just heat the wire with the lighter till its hot, then touch the solder to it and it should soak it right up.

[kolio]

about time. thats where i was gonna put my intake too.

[Blue Ice]

Way to come along Phizz. Yeah that wiring is definitely One Off!! Again nice idea on the intake.

[mko]

Good to see another 7g going turbo. I have scheduled my turbo installation right after the 5spd swap, and hopefully will be done by January. Good luck tho!

Are you auto or 5 spd? And how are gonna tune this - SAFC, MAFT, wideband?

[Ivory8g]

he's 5-spd

[4-G-rim]

Wow man...good to see your endeavor into turboing your 7g man! :cool: Wasn't too long since we discussed a few things you wanted to do.

What kind of connectors are you using? Are those the spider clip types...if so, I would at least upgrade to nice solid crimp style connectors.

Where you routed your intake and filter was something I was contiplating when I installed the turbo on -G-rim. Though...the I/C piping routing my friend suggested wouldn't allow that to work. So how are you going to route your cold side i/c piping?

Looks great man...like I said, if you need some help just give me a holla. Let me know when you drive the car down...I got another 7g buddy of mine that wouldn't mind seeing yours:cool:

[phizzalot]

Thanx g-rim and everyone, and yes iam 5speed, I used to have my mods up in the old garage section but will add em up again.... All I was able to do today was the cold side intercooler piping and mock up the LICP from the turbo but I have to pick up a gasket for the j-pipe/turbo oulet before i install it.

So far its a tight squeeze but iam sure it will hold up....
http://www.a10chun.com/images/turbo8.jpg

the bend going down to the interooler
http://www.a10chun.com/images/turbo5.jpg

this end will hook up to the fmic
http://www.a10chun.com/images/turbo7.jpg

just another pick of the cold side setup.. Iam not sure but I think I will flip the bov around and put a pipe straight into the intake...
http://www.a10chun.com/images/turbo6.jpg

[4-G-rim]

Looks great bro.

The only I would suggest from your I/C piping is to use Tbolt clamps instead of those worm clamps. They are a bit more pricey than worm clamps...but reduce the chance of boost leaks and Tbolt clamps have a much more secure fit than worm clamps.

I would like to see the car when its done some time man! :cool:

[Johnathansgalant]

also change those home depot couplers they will not hold... phizz whats engine management?

[seth98esT]

Second the tbolt clamps. Never blew one ic pipe with them.

[Boostdgalant]

What type of MAF Sensore is that because if its stock the car wont even start and if it does it will run like shit. Second like everyone else said those home depot couplers wil melt adn stretch to shit after one run ....

[Sleepervr-4]

Good shit fizz. Glad to see your finally boosting that thing. I would ditch the hd couplers and worm clamps like stated above. Keep up the good work bro ;)

[phizzalot]

Well I thought the HD Couplers wold hold for the mean time but I guess I got to start checking out some other places to get some from.. This is not a Daily driven car aymore so Iam not too worried with this setup lasting for a long time...

Iam using the SAFC for engine mgmt. As stated before iam not looking for anthing crazy right now, just something to get it turned on and runnning, maybe to the grocery store and to work 10-15mile trip.

I have more pics to show but things have been put on hold until I get a jpipe to work with the 16g :(

[DryBear]

You can get couplers from http://www.hosetechniques.com/

Right now they are having a sale, and the prices are great. Their couplers are really good too.

[bmore303]

What type of MAF Sensore is that because if its stock the car wont even start and if it does it will run like shit..

Appears to be stock, but why are you providing false information?

[phizzalot]

Alright So I was able to get my LICP together and now have completed my intercooler setup :).. Um I moved on to the the fuel pump and started to replace my old one to with a 2g Turbo eclipse fuelpump.

My questions.

1. I got the nut connection at the top ready to be removed but as I screw the line off it becomes kinked to the point were it looks like the black tube is going to break :(
Should I keep twisting it off or remove the bottom nut connection as well (going to that long line)?

2.Also when installing my LICP, I was unable to get it to fit with the larger radiator fan so I just took it out :) Will this cause the other fan not to turn on?

[Johnathansgalant]

the larger fan is the main fan and the smaller is the supp or ac fan so if u remove the large fan u will most likely overheat all the time.. u need the larger fan more than the smaller fan or u gotta replace it with a large slim fan or something...

what nut connections are u talking about?? U should remove all the hoses before u rotate anything.. I disconnected the feed and return lines and u remove the ring and assembly but im not 100% with ur 7g

[4-G-rim]

1. I got the nut connection at the top ready to be removed but as I screw the line off it becomes kinked to the point were it looks like the black tube is going to break :(
Should I keep twisting it off or remove the bottom nut connection as well (going to that long line)?

You remove the black hose with the clamp up top of the fuel pump assembly. To remove the feed line...you are going to remove it from the bottom of the car where the hardline meets the rubber feed line to the pump assembly.

Here is the VFAQ: http://vfaq.com/mods/pump-WB-2GFWD.html


2.Also when installing my LICP, I was unable to get it to fit with the larger radiator fan so I just took it out :) Will this cause the other fan not to turn on?

1 fan is for your A/C which I believe is the RH fan and the LH is for the cooling system. If I am assuming right...you removed the RH fan (closest to the battery) to run the Jpipe right? IF so...then when you turn your A/C...you will over heat since the fan for the a/c is not there to come on

[DOHCstunr]

drivers side is a/c fan, passenger is radiator fan.

I took my a/c fan out a while back to give me more room to wrench on my wastegate dumptupe, and I didn't put it back in.
I've never once seen my coolant needle even point straight up, let alone shift to the right side of the gauge.
I'll put it back in before competition in the spring.

but if you do this mod it shouldn't matter anyways:
http://vfaq.com/mods/wayback/2gcoolingfan.html
If you don't want to run the override switch, but still want both fans to always work in tandem, you can just install the jumper wire... takes literally 10 seconds to do.

but i like having the fan override. Whenever I know i'm within half a mile of my destination I stop boosting and hit the fan switch. start cooling things down ahead of time.
Then i can sit there and idle with the fans on.
If I had a damn turbo timer I suppose the fan override would make the turbo timer even more effective.

[phizzalot]

Thanks G-rim and Dohc, I was able to get the line for the fuel pump off by unbolting the bottom portion.

I installed the 2g turbo pump to the 7g assembly but needed to cut away a piece of the metal fitting so that the pump would slide up enough to be able to fit in the tank...( Dremel a must)

as for the fans, I don't have AC anymore cause I don't feel like looking for another compressor at the moment....

I have removed the passenger side fan (guessing radiator) so Ill probably overheat if i don't do the vfaq mod?

Tomorrow I will install the water feed line, bolt the oil return line to the turbo, bolt the downpipe to the o2 housing, and rewire the 1g o2 to my 7g harness...

I should be ready to test startup by then :)

[phizzalot]

Ok, so I started it up and went for a ride around the neighborhood... I am happy so far with the results Ive got. The car idles fine and when regularly driving everything is smooth and normal.

Now for the bad. When I gave it a little boost, thee LICP popped off ;( also when I tightened that up I gave it another try and the car bogged down and died after boosting. I talked with a friend and he said I may need to change my spark plugs cause it sounds like the spark cannot burn off the remaining fuel at low idle.

As for my radiator fan, I moved the smaller one to the middle of the radiator and I haven't started to overheat or even come half way on the gauge inside the cluster..

What type of spark plug and gap iam I suppose to be running now that the car is turbo'ed?
Also what Percentage's Iam I suppose to set the SAFC to at each rpm on high and low throttle?

Also here is a photo...I have a few more iam saving for the member pic area...
http://www.a10chun.com/images/galantfmic.jpeg

heres another.. Had to pick up some grocery's
http://www.a10chun.com/images/phizzalotzg.jpg

[4-G-rim]

I lowered my spark plug gap to 32mm and never had a issue since I have turbo'ed the car.

Assuming you are running 450cc's, and to compesate.....-34% across the board on high and low throttle. Then from there..you can mess around with adjusting the parameters.

Can't wait to see the car in person man...definitely let me know when you are in town and we can get together for a little meet. :cool:

[seth98esT]

Very cool. Are those JDM headlights? In need of a major major buffing!

Are you using worm clamps? If so, you NEEEEEED to upgrade to tbolt clamps, you will not regret it. As for the car bogging, it could be a couple dozen different things.

[4-G-rim]

+1 on what Seth suggested on the Tbolt clamps. I think I recommened for you to upgrade previously..but they may be a bit more expensive, but worth the investment.

Those headlights need some buffing man...next time you are in Orlando, I will buff them up for you myself:cool:

[phizzalot]

Cool thanks for the pointers. I will order some tbolts/silicone couplers next pay check :)... Ill gap my plugs and try it out again...

I May be in orlando this upcoming week but not sure if the Galant will be up for the trip as of yet...

Thanx again everyone for all the help, I will upgrade this post with the upgrades and changes I make to the setup...

[DOHCstunr]

your lenses look about ready for a solid wetsand. I don't think there is a compound that will help you at this point.

I run 22psi on my 4g63 with a compression ratio of 7.8:1
I run bpr6es plugs(irrelevant for the sohc) and a gap of .028
Not sure what you'd want to run on a 4g64, but with any kind of decent boost and of course you having higher compression.... I would think you'd want to run something around what I run w/ your gap.

The most important part would be that you run the OEM NGK plugs.
don't buy v power, or platinum, or bosh or iridium,
just run the standard copper NGK.

It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to run one step colder.



Are your distributor cap, rotor button, and spark plug wires up to date?

[phizzalot]

Well since I last posted, I have changed my Licp again but have been blowing off clamps/couplers left and right LOL...
I checked my Gap and they are all set at 32mm. I also set my SAFC -34 and haven't bogged out or cutt off yet. My plugs and wires are up to date and my idle is super smooth...

I really need better silicone couplers and tbolt clamps... ( re-ataching Intercooler pipes on the side of the street is not fun)

I was able to get boost up to about 6.5 but let off cause I didn't want to overdue it :)

Oh yeah, I think I will be needing another clutch soon :( this oem one is just a bit too soft...

[DOHCstunr]

are your charge pipes flared at the end, or do they have anti-slip beads on them?

You can also use Ultra mega hold hair spray to assist in preventing the couplers from slipping off.

If your couplers are not nylon reinforced lol..... its funny cause once you get the t-bolt clamps... and they can no longer slip off..... they just burst. and the sound is the scariest thing you've ever heard.
I figured that one out a looooooong time ago. ;)

[Blue Ice]

Wow man the car is looking great! Congrats on the progress.

Have you checked to see if you have the Bypass valve properly hooked up? If that's hooked up incorrectly, you could be steadily building up pressure in your charge pipes.

Also, make sure the tube to the boost gauge doesn't have any leaks. When i first hooked mine up i had a leak where the tube goes into the gauge. It may sound a little funny, but what i did to check was i sucked on the open end of the tube that was hooked to the gauge, till i got like 5 psi, then put my tongue over the hole. If there are not any leaks the vacuum should hold it's pressure. there was so it tightened the fittings and tried again. The fittings on the back side of the gauge have to be crazy tight. I also wrapped the back side with electrical tape for added security. It's important to get a good read cause you may think you're stopping at 6psi, but the pipes are charges a lot higher.

Have you been able to hear the pressure release before? Is your boost controller hooked up properly. It just seems to me like the pressure is not getting release correctly.

as far as clutch, i like my SBR clutch. the street able

[Johnathansgalant]

haha i bet ur pipes are not beaded tis tis ron..... Get them beaded and use some good ply silicone.. i know a shop down here if u need some semi local..

[seth98esT]

You dont need beeded pipes, just a quality coupler and tbolt clamps. Once I installed those, I never blew off a pipe, all the way up to 22psi. Beaded pipes do help a lot, but they are not required if you have quality couplers and tbolt clamps!

And I dont think he is having a problem hitting full boost, sounds like he is just scared to hit full boost without a tune :)

Post some updated non-camera phone pictures man!

[DOHCstunr]

Just curious...
have you done a boost leak test?
there is no point in tuning your car if you have boost leaks.
You'd be amazed at how many you could have.
And the crazy places that leak..... like the throttle body shaft seals(garuntee yours are leaking)
but here is the deal. Just like your tune goes completely to shit if you vent your BOV on a MAS car...... having even the TINIEST boost leak will throw your entire tune off.
It will also significantly longer to spool the turbo..... and will cause your turbo to run out of breath earlier in the top end(causing you to lose power up high)

Its such a simple procedure..... you'll be amazed.

[bronxbombr]

nice.

[phizzalot]

BlueIce man you got some skills with pressure testing ( no offense :) ) I tried to blow thru my boost gauge and could barley get the neddle to move past 1 or 2.. I may have a malfunctioning boost gauge.

Although when I used a smaller diamater licp I was able to get the gauge up to 6.5 or 7 before the pipes blew off... I agree DOHC that these ebay couplers are crap and it makes no sense to even try and drive around with them because they slip off!!!

I actually found a shop that carries 4ply silicone couplers/tbolt clamps and am in the process of swapping out all the ebay stuff...

The pipes are not beeded and I don't think I will boostleak test it untill I replace those parts...
Thanks for all the comments and help again...

[Shadow19]

Hey phiz can you post up wiring diagrams and a list of shit you needed? I have damn near every part to boost my galant till i swap it to the 63t and im just unsure of what else i need or how to do the wiring. I have the turbo, manifold, FMIC, piping, injectors and whatever else i can use off of a complete 1g turbo LOL...

[kolio]

once you fix that stuff post vids!!!

[phizzalot]

Hey phiz can you post up wiring diagrams and a list of shit you needed? I have damn near every part to boost my galant till i swap it to the 63t and im just unsure of what else i need or how to do the wiring. I have the turbo, manifold, FMIC, piping, injectors and whatever else i can use off of a complete 1g turbo LOL...

Well I didn't do too much wiring.. I used the tutorial from here to hook up the safc although one wire was different and also the tut to wire in the resistor pack.. In your situation iam sure you will be doing way more wiring and would really look to blueice/Dohc/seth or 4grim, but will help out anyway I can...On a side not the wiring is sometimes easy once you start going...

Hey Kolio I had a vid of the first startup with the manifold smokin from the excess oil and other fulids but I just broke my phone and lost it :(
I will post some up when I get things going agian for sure....

[4-G-rim]

Looking forward to seeing the car man. Hey...I am hooking up with my friend that took the photography pics of -G-rim recently for another photoshoot for some rolling shots. I am looking to set it up middle of this month...on a Sunday or something. If you are in town, you are welcome to have your 7g in the shoot along with my other buddy with his 7g. Let me know man:cool:

[B19WHEELS]

Napa sells t-bolt clamps in there catalog on the counter.. I think the 2.25 to 2.75 for $4.70 a piece. Also HTS has a sell on 4ply silicone couplers(very strong). Get rid of the Home Depot rubber couplers asap( i started out with them also lol) Good to see the car is running! Please invest in a wideband o2 if u havent gotten one yet..

[PogiGreg]

With the air filter facing the firewall, how are you getting fresh air in?

[phizzalot]

Sounds Good G-Rim.. Ill have to get to work on its reliability and then will make a trip up to orlando.....

PogiGreg, The placement of the air filter is mainly because I didn't want to relocate my battery and couldn't get it the piping to work any other way.. There is a large hole between the back of the transmission and the firewall where it can get air. Also the air is being cooled down by the FMIC. I think as long as I have a filter it will be ok...

[4-G-rim]

With the air filter facing the firewall, how are you getting fresh air in?

He should be alright..there is some fresh air going in there and as long he has a air filter it should be fine. The original intake piping routing for the Galant VR4's were similar to where he has his filter sitting at.

http://www.galantvr4.org/images/galant_under_hood.jpg

[PogiGreg]

It seems like there wouldn't be a direct flow. Now I'll tell you a nice indescreet hood scoop that looks like what is on the WRX would look wicked and actually be functional.

[DryBear]

My filter sits in a similar position (close to the firewall) and I don't have any airflow problems. I have considered some kind of custom scoop, though, but don't want any big bulges on my hood.

[phizzalot]

So I've got a lot of the HD coupler's changed out for the silicone good stuff but feel as if I have a boost leak somewhere.

I got a boost leak tester which i placed on the front of the turbo to build pressure, however i cannot get passed 0lbs on my boost gauge?

It sounds like all of the air is escaping from the gasket near the throttle body :( is there anywhere else around that area which may be leaking?

MY new plans are to clean up the engine bay and add some color to the certain areas new pics will be up soon...

[mko]

yeah, throttle body shaft seal

[seth98esT]

Cheap part, not hard to replace as long as you can get the screws of the butterfly valve.

Hook the boost leak tester up again and get a hose, put one end up to your ear, the other on or near the part you want to test, should be able to hear a leak. Also take a squirt bottle, fill it with semi soapy water, and spray areas you might think are leaking. Also take the return off your BOV and make sure its not leaking as well.

[phizzalot]

Thanks Seth/MKO, I think I may scvange a junkyard for a 60mm TB while iam at it so I don't have to do this process twice...

Also Dohc sent me the vfaq DIY for replacing the seals..
http://www.plymouthlaser.com/tbor.htm (just in case anyone else needs it...)

[DOHCstunr]

its a very easy process.
took me about 1/2 hour once the throttle was off the car.
also,
be sure to use only a brand new OEM mitsu throttle body gasket(or set if you have a turbo throttle w/ elbow)
the felpro ones are a bitch to get off(you have to scrape them) and I don't trust them not to leak.

other boost leak culprits are the pcv valve, fuel injector-to-head seals, and adjustment screws on bov's and afpr screws

[Galantfan88]

Not to bad man.

[phizzalot]

Another update... I got pics coming soon but I went down to Johnathansgalants place and got my boost problem fixed :)

We did a boost leak first and was only leaking from my bov. The seam from the bov to the pipe was ok however air was pouring out of the whole used to return air into the intake pipe... After closer inspection John noticed I had a few things incorrect.

I won't mention how I had it hooked up before to confuse anyone Ill just show how things are now and the steps used to get there :)

1. bought a splitter to tap into the line that runs from the intake manifold into the fuel rail.
2. tap into the splitter on the intake/manifold and run that line to the top of bov.
3. I tapped my j-pipe pretty well and ran a line into the top of my dejion mbc
4. run a line from the wastegate into the other end of the mbc

For those who don't have a mbc, the line from the wastegate actuator should be run directly to the j-pipe.

John explained that I didn't have negative and positive pressure before and thats where I was running into problems. After the fix I was able to hit 8lbs-10lbs easily and the overall feeling of the car improved....

I have pictures on the way but stay tuned to my future install...

Wideband Air/fuel Gauge (JAW)
Rear Disc setup from Galant GS (4lug)
EEE PC In car Touchscreen Radio/PC

98 Eclipse ECU Swap (reflashable to Evo 8 Setup :) )
Welded Intercooler piping (maybe)

[Shadow19]

dude can you post pics on your oil and water return lines and shit for your turbo? I may be starting my turbo swap soon but im still at a loss on how to hook all that shit up. Did you use the 2g oil cooler? Or do you not have an oil cooler? Any pics would be greatly apprecited bro. Also some pics on the BOV lines and stuff.


Thanks,
Johnas

[qnz]

good stuff Ron.

you gonna run Linux on the EEE PC? I had one before. shit started up fast!

[phizzalot]

I actually was thinking of getting the 7inch asus eee pc laptop, flipping the lcd(cutting the back side of the case), adding the touch kit from ebay and mounting it double din style. Not sure if it will fit but worth a try for 160.00....

I was going to use windows and roaddrunner.... linux is fun though but I like the interface of roadrunner especially with the touch screen...

[qnz]

Instead of cutting up the laptop, why not just buy a seperate liliput touch screen and mold that in and connect it to the EEE. That way you can keep the EEE intact in case you want to sell it, or even just to pull out of the car and use as a regular laptop sometimes.

[qnz]

Instead of the EEE, I would rock one of these in my car.

http://www.engadget.com/2009/07/13/bandai-rilakkuma-netbook-suffers-from-serious-supercuteitis/

HAWT!

[4-G-rim]

Bro...you need to send me some info on that 98 2g Ecu to make it FLASH capable to me.

[qnz]

the new tactrix 2.0 cable is able to read and flash 98-99 DSM ecus. I'm not sure if it will work for a 7g, but I have the 2.0 cable if you wanna try with your car Ron.

Im willing to bet that you can now flash "unflashable" 8g 1999-2000 ecus as well but have not tried yet.

[phizzalot]

Qnz ur crazy man.. I know you would rock that super cute thang lol :)...

I guess an extra 100.00 for the lilliput isn't bad... will see. Hey G-rim theres a bunch of threads over at dsmtuners about them reflashing it and using ecuflash to modify tables.. I duno too much about it but Iam trying to get the in carpc thing gong first then swaping over to the 2g ecu.

I have one with the model number MD346675. If you run a search on that number over at dsmtuners you will see what they have done with it..

[phizzalot]

OK not a big update or anything but I've got my new clutch in,

http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/images/DSCF1446.JPG
I haven't broke it in yet but the shifts are alot smoother so far and driveablilty seems to be in line... (note the pressure plate did not fit rubbed bellhousing )

Replaced Leaky slave cylinder...

Picked up the rear gs conversion...
http://www.a10chun.com/images/7ggsrear.jpg

Quick photo of when I got the transmission in...
http://www.a10chun.com/images/gandevo1.jpg
that bumper suks... I'll put it on once I put it on the road again....

Other little things I have include
http://www.junkyardturbos.com/images/image022.jpg
perrin mbc

jmf adapter plate for 1g...
http://www.slowboyracing.com/images/T/JMFab1GBOVto2G-EvoPipeAdapter.jpg
with
http://members.shaw.ca/gehca/pic/C%203%20pipe.jpg
Now I have complete 2.25 cold side piping with 1gbov No more dipping down to a stock 1g pipe...

Things Iam planning on picking up soon include
New coolant sensor ( i believe I busted mine up when installing transmission)
another rack and pinion the one I picked up autozone a while back is leaking :(

and another photo I found when I switched out my rims...
http://www.a10chun.com/images/nurims2.jpg

[mko]

Looking good bro. Didnt really need the rear hubs, unless yours are shot. What rear rotors are you getting?

[phizzalot]

Hmm... really I thought I needed gs rear hubs for some reasons cause I will be keeping these 4 lug rims for a while....

Haven't given much thought into rotors. Something slotted not drilled for the rear and probably drilled and slotted for the front....

[Shadow19]

Hmm... really I thought I needed gs rear hubs for some reasons cause I will be keeping these 4 lug rims for a while....

Haven't given much thought into rotors. Something slotted not drilled for the rear and probably drilled and slotted for the front....

It would look out of whack with that setup. Go for the same front and rear. Trust me. it is very noticeable.

[mko]

Yo Phizz, do you have a GS in the j/y close to you?

[phizzalot]

Ya there was 2 but everytime I get to the yard, the motors are already ripped out completely :(...

Makes sense skrap, I'll probably just get a cheap set from ebay, ( i just heard drilled rotors don't do much for the rear brake)

[Blue Ice]

Looking good Phizz. I'd like to see how much you cut for fitment on that front bumper and fmic

[DOHCstunr]

Looking good man.

[Ivory8g]

that perrin mbc is a good product! I have it!

[phizzalot]

Here is a vid I made when I got the the IC Piping and bov redone. It really poor quality but my BB was dead at the moment so I used a moto rokr z6 lol :)

It developed a boost leak so I have to hunt that down and get some miles on the clutch before I go out for boos t again...

check it out...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4C9lRlyUsc

[mko]

now we want a full boost pull video

[phizzalot]

OK so its been a while since I've driven my 7g and since I've have taken it out, I've hit some snags..

First that clutch kit above does not work for me :( it is too large and rubs against the bellhousing when installed...

I opted for an exedy stage 1 and so far has been holding up well. While I was at it, I've bought the prothane bushing kit and divided the pieces between my brother and i (He has a GS) . I also came across a sale at tire rack on koni yellow sports for about 250.00 for a set of new front shocks.

Now for the bad.. my driver side hub seperated on me pulling out of a gas station and destroyed my axle with it :(. The tow truck came along and added insult to injury by pulling my car onto the flatebed and cracking my back bumper and side skirts :( Nothing that can't be fixed though :)

So now my 7g is back up and running.
things in my to do list involves only mainteance now..

Fix all leaks
Get an Alignment. (well overdue after all the work ive done on the suspension)


and Last but not Least is to head out to PBIR Drag strip to get a respectable time slip :)

The only other upgrade I can see for now is with the 2g eclipse ecu. It should be nice to see a comparison between the 7g ecu and the 2g ecu time slips.

[Shadow19]

hey man i have the rear bumper and sideskirts if u need them. i also have the front end like yours. 250 for all of it plus shipping.

[phizzalot]

Well Its been a while since i'v updated this post but I figured its about time.

The Above Pressure plate setup wouldn't fit in my FWD Manual Transmission so instead of buying one that could fit I decided on getting this :)

AWD Manual Transmission and Transfer Case from 95 Eclipse GSX (80,000miles)
http://www.a10chun.com/photo.JPG

Awd Gas Tank and Trey to Hold it up
http://www.a10chun.com/photo%203.JPG

Awd Rear Sub frame with rear differential ( i got everything from rotor to rotor)
http://www.a10chun.com/photo%202.JPG

Also have but not pictured is the drive shaft and brackets that came off the car :)
Also received my DOHC 4g63 Head a little while ago but am still collecting parts to get it together.

I really don't plan on putting this in anytime soon but I decided to get these parts since I had the cash flow at the time and it was a great deal!!!

[Galantfan88]

Holy shit man I can not wait to see this, good luck with everything and deff keep all of us posted.

[Joshua42007]

Holy shit man I can not wait to see this, good luck with everything and deff keep all of us posted.

x2

[phizzalot]

Sup everyone,

I moved to a new apt with a 1car garage so I hopefully I will be able to get some more work done on the G soon :) Haven't done anything lately but wash it and clean up the turbo setup.

Changes... Sept 26, 2011
Refurb Ac Compressor
Refurb Ac Condensor
New Expansion valve
New 6 Puck XTD Sprung Clutch and Stage 4 PP
Prothane Transmission passenger mount.
Zeitronix Wideband wiring kit installed.
and a fresh wash..

I got some custom work coming along for the light's can't wait to get a few more pieces in..

Here are some pics for now.
After wash
http://[email protected]//phizz_galant/IMG_0924.jpg
http://[email protected]//phizz_galant/IMG_0925.jpg
http://[email protected]//phizz_galant/IMG_0926.jpg
Need color suggestions :)
http://[email protected]//phizz_galant/IMG_0927.jpg
http://[email protected]//phizz_galant/IMG_0928.jpg
http://[email protected]//phizz_galant/IMG_0929.jpg
http://[email protected]//phizz_galant/IMG_0930.jpg
http://[email protected]//phizz_galant/IMG_0931.jpg
http://[email protected]//phizz_galant/IMG_0932.jpg
Back to the garage until i can get her finished for the road trip.
http://[email protected]//phizz_galant/IMG_0933.jpg

[Shadow19]

HAHA! I just bought myself an xtd clutch sunday. My clutch slipped very very very bad. Took the flywheel to the machine shop and the guy said it was pretty bad lol... What do you think about the stage 4? I got the stage 3 with a sprung 6 puck. I read mixed reviews about the springs falling out BUT ALL of those reviews were from AWD cars and people launching at 5500 rpm. I cant wait to see how my car will do with a good clutch. It was so bad 2nd gear would slip the whole time. Keep us updated!

[phizzalot]

wsup Shadow, I did a lot of research as well and I only found people talking negative about XTD and "0" photos of actual XTD clutch's failing.. I called before ordering the clutch and made sure to get the Stage 4 Pressure plate with the sprung 6 Puck disc that comes with the stage 3.

Its been installed for about a month or so and transmission shifts are extremely quick!!!! The only negative so far is low speeds like trying to back into that garage or easing off slowly from a start is ruff. This clutch is an on or off type of clutch but still has some slip capability to it if given some gas.

I can't wait to get some regular driving miles on it so I can see how it handles under boost.

[Shadow19]

I know my F1 clutch was complete shit! It slipped when i was N/A. I had the same clutch in my gf's gst and it held up to 30+ lbs of boost for 6 miles till we threw a rod (very very very long story). Anywho, how stiff is that stage 4 pressure plate? I was going to go with that but i had 800+ lbs of sheet rock fall on me 5 years ago and my knee kills me sometimes.

[phizzalot]

Well I like the feel of the pressure plate. its definitely stiffer then stock but not as stiff as the aftermarket clutch in my Evo 9 (RPS Turbo Max). I don't think you will notice the difference after a few weeks of driving.

I heard bad stories about the low stages on F1 clutches. The census seems that if you are going to spend money on an ebay clutch to get the level 3 /level 4 stage's.