Oval Intake?!

[IllestGalant]

What do you guys think about this write up from RPW (racing performance works) about cone shaped filters for our cars:
2. K&N Pod Filter - Fitment of K&N Ram pod assembly or replacement filter. With this model running a Mitsubishi MAS Sensor, fitment of a Universal Pod Filter is not recommended. The reasoning behind this is the honeycombed section requires the air to be very straight and clean. A pod filter is cone shaped and instead, causes a swirling action which confuses the pod filter. To combat this RPW has imported from the USA specific K&N Filter charger kits that are 100% compatible with the MAS sensor without causing these problems. These are a flat oval shaped filter with a proper cast adapter. To quote a comment term :- If K&N believed that that a universal filter would do the job why did they make a specific filter for the MAS sensor. These are guaranteed to not only give a noticeable power improvement anywhere from 10 - 15%, they will not cause uneven idling or running rich. These are the recommended first modification to be done to the vehicle - even before exhaust.

[pinoyesv6]

their talking about the k&n FIPK for the 2g eclipse turbo

[2True]

Yup th FIPK, Force Intake Performance Kit er something :roll:

If RPW is right, than what about my CAI setup? You think the extension provides enough flow control as to not confuse the MAS? hhmmmm.. I think so :wink:

[pinoyesv6]

pod filters get confused?

[BEAST]

FIPK is Fuel Injection Performance Kit.

[2True]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(BEAST)</div><div class='quotemain'>FIPK is Fuel Injection Performance Kit.</div>

YES, thank you much...

[IllestGalant]

So "2True", in other words your saying that the length of the gsr intake
is sufficient enough that when it hits the maf sensor the air is
going in straight?

[2True]

That's my opinion... can't say how accurate it is though. :? Since I am the only one with this setup (currently).

My car runs better with the GSR than it did with the WeaponR Hyper intake so... that's where I get my opinion. There was an improvement all around really.. idle, accel, sound, etc.

[pinoyesv6]

ok i keep reading it over and over again. and this is what i remember. the honeycomb doesn't need the air to be str8. its the sensor behind the honey comb that needs the air to be str8. the honeycomb's function is to make the air str8 for the sensor behind it.

[2True]

That's what I understand it as also Allen. That's why you never take the center honey comb out of the center!

[Jesse]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(PinoyESV6)</div><div class='quotemain'>ok i keep reading it over and over again. and this is what i remember. the honeycomb doesn't need the air to be str8. its the sensor behind the honey comb that needs the air to be str8. the honeycomb's function is to make the air str8 for the sensor behind it.</div>


Pinoy, I think for the first time you're wrong, I never thought I'd say that, haha. I do appreciate all u do though.

Here's the real deal, those honey combs create vortices (sp?) so that the sensor detects the air flow. How I learned this, I removed some of mine which created straight air flow and the sensor wasn't detecting much air flow and the result was bad idle and ocassional stalling at idle.
Some other DSM's confirmed this theory I had and that is the reason for the honeycombs. I think you can get by with removing the side ones, but DO NOT removed the middle ones.

I have the FIPK, this is a beast and sucks in lots of air. Unfortunately, I haven't thought of a way to make it into a CAI because of the oval shaped connection it has to the MAS.

I think Pinoy once suggested heating up PVC and shaping it into an oval, I'll have to try that once it gets warm.

[seth98esT]

PVC hah thats ghetto...just go to a muffler shop and have them bend you a piece of pipe for a few $$

[Jesse]

I guess I should find the circumfrence of the oval for the fipk, then take that number and divide it by (Pie) and that should give me the diameter of the pipe I need to bend.

[pinoyesv6]

if ur fitting is long enough then u wouldn't have to deform the pvc since the fitting would deform. uhm another option is to check out the intakes for the 3kgt. i remember seeing the back of the MAS was oval. might be something to look at...

[pinoyesv6]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Jesse)</div><div class='quotemain'>Here's the real deal, those honey combs create vortices (sp?) so that the sensor detects the air flow. Â*How I learned this, I removed some of mine which created straight air flow and the sensor wasn't detecting much air flow and the result was bad idle and ocassional stalling at idle.
Some other DSM's confirmed this theory I had and that is the reason for the honeycombs. Â*I think you can get by with removing the side ones, but DO NOT removed the middle ones.

</div>

im just getting my info from one of the DSM parts dealers, MACHV.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>The sensor itself is a little teeny electrical thing, but it is housed in a sort of plastic tunnel that is filled with aluminum honeycomb. The honeycomb straightens the air so the meter can read it.
</div>
http://store.yahoo.com/machv/whatismasair.html ('http://store.yahoo.com/machv/whatismasair.html')


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Karmann Vortex sensor, which figures out how much air by watchting little vortices (swirls) in the air as it travels throught the sensor.</div>

so by reading that i guess we're both partially right.

[Jesse]

Hmm..... thanks for linking that. When reading that, it makes me think they're contradicting themselves.

I think what they're saying is the sensor detects the vortices to keep the car idling correctly, then the honeycombs straighten the air so the meter can read it to send the ECU the air flow data to compensate with gas.