Clutch Pedal, Master, Slave Problem [Archive]

remarque

12-16-2008, 03:50 PM

I don't know what the problem is, I bled the hydro twice. As soon as I bleed the system the clutch pedal is firm, but a few minutes later its back mushy. The hydro system is not leaking cause the fluid reservoir doesn't move. Any ideas?

QnzMostWanted

12-16-2008, 03:52 PM

could be a bad slave

DOHCstunr

12-16-2008, 04:01 PM

if the slave was bad then it would be leaking out the slave. You can try pulling back the boot on the slave cylinder. should be nice and dry inside of it.

To me sounds like the seals in your master have gone bad.
Probably need a new master, and might as well get a stainless clutch line if you don't already have one.

remarque

12-16-2008, 04:11 PM

I think the slave is good, the chitlon manual said squeeze the boot to see if any fluid would come out. I did that and boot was dry. Would a different fluid cause the problem?

seth98esT

12-16-2008, 04:16 PM

Should only use brake fluid. If its not leaking anywhere, if your not losing fluid in the resevoir, its a bad master.

remarque

12-16-2008, 04:19 PM

Thanks, I will be hitting the pull a part tomorrow.

QnzMostWanted

12-16-2008, 04:23 PM

i personally would never use a used master or slave cylinder

remarque

12-16-2008, 05:37 PM

I found two junkyards that have one near me, I also ordered one from autozone just in case either one of the others is bad.

DOHCstunr

12-16-2008, 09:12 PM

NEVER use a used master or slave.
It will fail sooner than later.
Trust me on this.

seth98esT

12-16-2008, 10:55 PM

I concur with the above. Skip the used, go for the new!

4-G-rim

12-17-2008, 09:53 AM

Not sure replaced a part or had the line unhooked for some reason..but is the slave cylinder new?

If you replace the clutch master cylinder...its best to replace the slave cylinder with a new unit also.

mko

12-17-2008, 11:49 AM

I found two junkyards that have one near me, I also ordered one from autozone just in case either one of the others is bad.

Don't buy any of autozone, advanced auto parts or ebay master or slave cylinders. I got brand new master cyl. off ebay and advanced auto parts and both of them didnt work. Go for the dealer parts, but these twice as much as the parts stores

4-G-rim

12-17-2008, 12:44 PM

Adding to what mko posted...I agree. When my slave cylinder went out on my GVR4 I got a slave from Advanced auto parts and it failed within a month. I knew better..but I needed something to fix the car ASAP.

If you can't afford the dealer price...I would suggest to get aftermarket parts from NAPA. I have bought many parts from NAPA and haven't had a issue with any of them. In some cases..they carry aftermarket manufacturers that produce some of the OEM parts. Matter of fact, I just bought a Clutch master and slave from Napa for $55...though I got a little discount since they guys there know me. :cool:

remarque

12-19-2008, 11:24 AM

I'm taking the one from auto back anyway cause the one I got from the pull a parts is working. Just need to bleed the system right this time, but the old master was bad cause it gave no resistance at all.

Now I got fix my exhaust, the muffler shop did a good job form the cat on back, but how could you reuse my old downpipe and not notice a huge fucking hole in it and not tell me. The hole was so big I was able to tear the part before the flexpipe off with my bear hands. I'm going to teach my self to weld cause that was just wrong.

bronxbombr

12-19-2008, 02:05 PM

go to napa and get a beckarnley 072-9833. that is the part number for the clutch master.

remarque

12-19-2008, 02:28 PM

QnzMostWanted

12-19-2008, 02:31 PM

how did u bleed it? its usually a 2 person job unless u have a 1 man bleeder kit or speed bleeders

remarque

12-19-2008, 02:35 PM

I pushed the pedal down with a stick and held it there with the driver seat. Then I opened the bleeder valve, but the fluid doesnt flow unless I push the pedal down again. Once I see a steady stream of fluid I close the valve. but the pedal is still mushy.

QnzMostWanted

12-19-2008, 02:38 PM

thats because u have to pump the pedal, then hold it down, open the bleeder, lock it, then repeat until all the air bubbles are gone

also did u adjust the master?

mko

12-19-2008, 02:38 PM

Just bled the system again and i still cant release the clutch. I checked the clutch fork, i'm able to push in toward the slave but not away from it. I followed the instruction for bleeding exactly. it says push the clutch pedal down, then open the bleeder valve until the fluid stops coming out, but the fluid doesnt come out. It comes out when press the pedal down again.

Could it be my clutch fork is in the wrong position.

have you bled brakes before?

its the same principal

pump the clutch pedal many times by pressin all the way down and releasing it all the way up. When you feel that its starting to get stiffer, hold the pedal down, and tell someone to open the bleedin screw on the slave cylinder. Do that 3-4 times and you should be good, and make sure you keep an ey on the tank with the fluid, if you let it get empty youll need to start all over.
Are you using a brake bleeder?

or get a clear glass or jar and put some brake fluid in it. Then use like 5-8 inch clear tubing that fits on the bleeding screw and dip the other end in the glass. Do the procedure and watch the fluid in the glass, if you see bubbles coming out of the tube then you need to bleed more

seth98esT

12-19-2008, 02:42 PM

You need two people to bleed a clutch. The correct way is the following:
You need;
-Clear bottle with some fluid in it
-Hose to go from slave bleeder valve to bottle

1. The end of the hose in the bottle should be submerged in fluid(so it doesnt suck up air back into the line before you close the valve)
2. One person pump the clutch pedal 3 or 4 times and hold the pedal to the floor on the last pump
3. While the first person is holding the pedal to the floor, the second person opens the bleeder valve until fluid squirts into the bottle. Once it stops flowing, completely shut the valve
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you see no air bubbles coming out of the line in the bottle

Be sure to keep an eye on the master resevoir, if you run it out of fluid, you are basically starting the process over as you just sucked air into the line. It may take a whole bottle of brake fluid to completely bleed the line depending how bad it is.

I always work by myself so I got a speed bleeder from Autozone. Just open the bleeder, attach a host, start pumping.

remarque

12-19-2008, 02:47 PM

OK the chitlon manual was telling me to just hold the pedal down then open the bleeder valve. As for adjusting the pedal, I know how to do it but how should I adjust it.

remarque

12-19-2008, 02:50 PM

Yeah working alone is hard, but everyone I know stay on the PS2. I'm just going get a speed bleeder.

Is it ok that I can move the clutch fork toward the slave, but not away.

QnzMostWanted

12-19-2008, 02:52 PM

Yeah working alone is hard, but everyone I know stay on the PS2. I'm just going get a speed bleeder.

Is it ok that I can move the clutch fork toward the slave, but not away.

yeah thats how its supposed to be, when u move it toward the slave you are only moving the piston inside the slave, once u try to push it the other way, ur trying to push the pressure plate, thats why u cant move it

remarque

12-19-2008, 02:53 PM

Thanks for your help.

seth98esT

12-19-2008, 04:06 PM

As long as the clutch pedal is at about the same height as the brake pedal, the master shouldnt need any adjustment.

peanotation

12-26-2008, 12:11 PM

i've been driving on a brand new master and slave for about 4 years and tacked on 60K miles, still working like brand new (knock on wood). i would never, ever, buy an aftermarket or used master or slave. spend the money now and you'll have peace of mind for years.

remarque

12-28-2008, 11:04 AM

I bled the system with a vacuum pump, but I think air is still getting into the system some how. I cant get a solid stream of fluid when bleeding, I'm just going to order a new slave,master and stainless hydro-line. I can put the car in gear and drive, but reverse is hard to get into.

mko

12-28-2008, 11:11 AM

SS line is the way to go man.

peanotation

12-28-2008, 11:53 AM

reverse is always the bitch to get into. shift into second and while the clutch is still depressed then go into R, much easier.

mko

12-28-2008, 11:58 AM

Really, I had a lil grind when the setup was first installed, but now when its all settled everything is smooth.

seth98esT

12-28-2008, 12:27 PM

Ive never had any problems with reverse.

peanotation

12-28-2008, 12:51 PM

Ive never had any problems with reverse.

have a cookie

bronxbombr

12-30-2008, 09:56 PM

Really, I had a lil grind when the setup was first installed, but now when its all settled everything is smooth.

Thank God for that ! LOL :)

RacerX4g64S

12-31-2008, 04:06 PM

My clutch pedal has a similar problem. At first glance the Master was almost out of fluid and I refilled it. It did not improve to the pedal. I followed the clutch line can’t find a leak. I check the slave boot no leak! But the bolt seemed very easy to compress with my hand. I am going to try to bleed the system and then replace both slave and master.

remarque

12-31-2008, 04:20 PM

I can put the car in reverse now, but the pedal is still soft with hardly any resistance. Just waiting to get paid to get the new parts.

bronxbombr

01-01-2009, 12:47 PM

I can put the car in reverse now, but the pedal is still soft with hardly any resistance. Just waiting to get paid to get the new parts.

Are you sure the rod for the master is long enough. I had the same problem doing the swap for MKO and its a PITA. Its either you have to adjust the clutch pedal,bleed the clutch over again, or replace and or mod the clutch master cylinder rod like MKO did to his.

remarque

01-01-2009, 03:43 PM

Let me try that, the car can go into gear alright but the pedal has to be to the floor.

mko

01-01-2009, 05:33 PM

Rubber line will not give you much resistance. You need the SS one. Does anything change if you pump the pedal a couple of times before shifting?

remarque

01-01-2009, 05:45 PM

no nothing changes. When I went and adjust the master rod, I noticed rod connecting the clutch pedal to the master is not centered. Its just sitting in the tube that contains the connecting rod, I think that my be my problem. Didnt notice it before, but I'm sure its not to be that way.

As for my engine, gonna try some engine restore and hope it works. What to let the Galant hibernate the rest of the winter.

bronxbombr

01-02-2009, 08:58 PM

keep us posted

bronxbombr

01-02-2009, 09:04 PM

make sure you bleed the system over tho

hk20000

01-03-2009, 07:39 AM

SS lines are not supposed to make it any "stiffer" but more "responsive".... the amount of pressure to push a freaking clutch open is going to be consistent whatever line is in the way to the slave....the rubber lines just make it feel more "elastic"

just find a mate to help you bleed the clutch, once you got someone in the car it's muuuuch faster.

factory master cylinder piston is a well over engineered piece of thing that no aftermarket bit can match. Barkarnley or whatever brand is made in Taiwan looks similar to factory but the spring isn't mounted on the pistons making assembly a bit more difficult.

a new cylinder in your old master will be just as effective as getting another master, if the price difference there is noticeable. Don't bother honing or boring the master casing because, chances are, you'll fuck it up.

bronxbombr

01-03-2009, 10:13 PM

i say BeckArnley because out of all the different brands and manufacturers i been through they seem to be the only part that works right.

hk20000

01-04-2009, 04:42 AM

yeah they work fine on my JDM import too. So props to that. How much is a 5/8" piston in States for that? Mine came to a total of $27. Funny enough the completed rebuilt master cylinder (for LHD) is $28... in canadian dollars.