How To:6G72 5 Speed Swap

[bmaddock]

***BIG THANKS TO: DryBear, HondaKillerGTZ, Goosey2099, my dad, and multiple others.***

As some of you may know, my automatic crapped out on me a few weeks ago and after heated debates between my parents and my wallet (yeah I know sound like a kid now haha), but I decided to go 5 speed.

Now there are great tutorials out there for this, but I want to make a decent, at least picture log of what I will encounter and the fact that there truthfully isn’t that great of a log for the v6’ers, even though it is similar.

Background Research:
I4 Swap by Goosey (https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?t=16557)
I4 Swap by Ivory8g (http://mitsubishipowered.com/projects/the-ivory-vrg-hybrid-5-speeds-of-boost-t17.html)
V6 Swap by roni (https://thegalantcenter.net/forum/showthread.php?t=14584)
6G72T's 5 speed (https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?t=35434)
Haynes Repair Manual (http://www.themotorbookstore.com/galant1.html)
Workshop Manual for 8gs in PDF download: http://www.sendspace.com/file/mhclpg
Another Service Manuall (http://www.dnaelite.com/service_manuals/galant_8g/)
Tearstone Performance - 2000-2002 Eclipse Factory Service Manual (http://tearstone.com/shop/2000-2002-Eclipse-Service-Manual.html)
Tearstone Performance - 2003-2005 Eclipse Factory Service Manual (http://tearstone.com/shop/2003-2005-Eclipse-Factory-Service-Manual.html)

DryBear and WarmAndSCSI also pointed out to me:
The V6 is actually a bit different from the I4. You will need:
Passenger side intermediate axle shaft - it may be easier to get the entire assembly from a junk yard.
V6 Manual Starter Plate - the hole for the starter is different from the auto starter plate

Other than that, most of the tutorial on TGC will apply. You may find it difficult to install the tranny without the use of a lift. I had to pull the engine out and install the engine+tranny as one unit. Was not too bad, but was a lot of work.

Parts and Costs:
This may vary depending on the deal, my tranny had 90k on it. SEARCH on www.car-part.com, able to find awesome deals and close to you.

2001 Dodge Stratus R/T tranny(came with tranny mount)..$650
Passenger Side Drive Axle…………………………................ ….….$35
Linkage, cables, etc…………………………………........ ..........…….$75
Shifter Assembly…………………………………... .................……….$65
Clutch Pedal……………………………………… ......................………$30
Master/Slave Cylinders.,……………………………...... .........……..$50
Fluids: Gear and Engine............................................ ......$50
Flexible Sockethead........................................ ................$10
Resurfacing the Flywheel.......................................... ......$55
Miscellaneous Parts and Accessories.................................$100
New Exedy Clutch …………………………………........... ..........$130
Total: $1295
Now that includes everything except:
-Clutch (Most likely will need to be replaced)
-Flywheel (could resurface the one from the donor transmission, but Im going to buy new)
-2 NEW axle seals
-Speaking of axle seals, mine were fine on the donor tranny so I didn't bother changing them because TJ was saying to me that they are somewhat of pain to get in right, If you go too far in it leaks or too far out it leaks. So if they are good i say leave em be, but don't yell at me when you start the car after the swap and realize you are leaking
-Manual Starter plate (need to take from donor car as well)
-*tip* Also the passenger side drive axle needs to be ABS or nonABS, according to your model

VVVIf using the auto starter plate, as you can see it is closer in and will thus grind on the flywheel

Manual Starter plate on top of automatic starter plate:
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a268/DryBear/8G%20Manual%20Swap%20Pics/2006-08-1316-10-15DCP_0021.jpg


More tips from WarmAndSCSI:
-Make sure the trans is a F5M51
-Match the flywheel/clutch combo. Example: eclipse clutch with eclipse flywheel and R/t clutch with R/T flywheel

Tips from me:
-75W-90 Gear Oil
-Dot 3 or 4 brake fluid for master cylinder
-Wear gloves and long sleeves when cutting the brake pedal and master cylinder holes, or be prepared for metal splinters
-When all interior is out, clean in the center console, when else are you going to be in there haha

*Not even going to bother posting dates, this swap will take me a good while because of the lack of time*

THE BEGINNING
I began by propping my car up in the drive way and degreased the majority of the underside of the car and prepped the garage.
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0020.jpg
VVVBegan to gut some of the interior in prep of installing the clutch pedal and shifter assembly
(I had issues with removing center console, refer to this (https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?t=17591) for help)
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0023.jpg
VVVMake sure to neatly label and bag nuts,screws, and bolts accordingly
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0024.jpg
VVV If you look above the pedals, you will find a piece of firewall similar to this. (Top left) VVVThis is where we will be dremeling
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0028.jpg
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0075.jpg
VVVActually dont bolt the master yet, first slide the clutch pedal in, then bolt
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0076.jpg
VVVNow I opted out on buying a new brake pedal because of the cost of the booster and instead are shaving my pedal. As roni said, you just take the brake pedal cover and drill around it.
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0077.jpg
VVVLooks uneven so i did trim the left side some more.
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0078.jpg

VVVTook intake off and battery (yes!, i will finally get rid of the eyesore rust :) )
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0033.jpg
For anyone wondering what else i did:
-i drained tranny oil
-disconnected shift cables
-disconnected and labeled electrical connectors *DONT CUT ANYTHING*
-disconnected oil cooler lines
-loosen my lug nuts, jacked the car up and removed the wheels

[FYI: For the removal of the auto, I highly recommend going to Autozone and purchasing the Haynes Repair Manual, this is what I am following]

So today i picked up tranny and etc.
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0039.jpg
VVV And to save a little money, i just took the brake pedal cover and am going to trim down the auto one to fit.
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0040.jpg

VVV Shifter in, what a pain to get the shift lines in and out
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0041.jpg
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0042.jpg
VVV Here is how I did them, quoted from Neteru's swap on galantforums


I used a flexhead gearwrench, $10 from lowes
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g93/OneBlackGTZ/100_8439.jpg
Removed the glove box and lower dash
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g93/OneBlackGTZ/100_8421.jpg
Bolts on the right and the left of the cable
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g93/OneBlackGTZ/100_8417.jpg
The right one will be easy to get to, the left one is a pain. Bend the cable out of the way and tie it to something. I had to put the end of the wrench on the bolt with my fingertips, since you can't see it and it swivels back easly.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g93/OneBlackGTZ/100_8394.jpg
Kind of a tight spot to turn the wrench, so I put some tape on the end of it, and held onto it with a vice, than turned it that way.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g93/OneBlackGTZ/100_8391.jpg
Tada!
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g93/OneBlackGTZ/100_8400.jpg
-OR-
As Drybear did, use flexible extensions! (i wish i just went and got these instead)
http://www.drillspot.com/pimages/145/14548_300.jpg

VVVRemoved starter, but we avoided taking off part of the downpipe from the headers so we simply drained my oil.
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0046.jpg
VVVWe then began removing the axles
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a268/DryBear/8G%20Manual%20Swap%20Pics/RemoveHub.jpg
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0070.jpg
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0051.jpg
VVVAnd prepared for dropping the automatic
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0050.jpg
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0052.jpg

-Placed a jack under the transaxle
-Double checked all connections are off
-Removed transaxle mount bolts
-Removed crossmember
-Removed Torque Convertor Cover to obtain access to the driveplate bolts
-Checked for no connections again
VVVlowered the auto out :) (well sorta fell out but its whatev)
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0094.jpg
VVVTrq convertor was still on hanging on the motor so I simply had to pull it off
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0096.jpg
VVVAfter bolting one of the driveplate bolts to the outer holes (to keep the crank from rotating) I removed the 8 bolts holding it to the crank
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0095.jpg
VVVThen removed started plate
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0097.jpg
END OF DISASSEMBLY


Now first i went and bought some threadlock
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0101.jpg
VVVAnd used it to bolt my flywheel to the crank (Torque to 74 Nm or 55 ftlb)
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0104.jpg
VVV For reference I used a tool that helped grab the teeth of the flywheel on with my left hand and then the torque wrench in my right hand
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0103.jpg
VVVAnd using the alignment tool placed the clutch disc
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0105.jpg

REFER TO POST #79 for clutch/flywheel drama (https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showpost.php?p=484506&postcount=79)
VVVPressure Plate on, pull out alignment tool (Torque to 19 Nm or 14 ftlb)
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0116.jpg
VVV Cool pic of alignment..
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0117.jpg



Didn't get pictures to but before bolting the transaxle to the engine, make sure to replace your throw out bearing. To do this, we had to remove the fork, then take the TOB out. Its a pain in the ass getting the fork off but that was the only way the TOB would slip off the inner shaft. If some one comes up with a better method of removing the fork, please post it. We had to drill a tiny hole to slip the rod the fork sits on out of the tranny
VVV Here is the tiny hole next to the crossmember that isnt plugged.
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0121.jpg
^^^And please ignore the rust and scraps on the crossmember, thats the crossmember from the R/T i pulled my parts off and it had a better mount on it so i put that one on. I am not the bad of a driver haha


And the moment of truth....
-Slipping the tranny on required a few things if you plan on doing it in a house garage and no air lift or anything fancy. We used a engine lift for the engine, and then maneuvered two jacks on the tranny to work it in.

A few important pieces to remove would be the rear tranny mount, all battery tray supports, lower coolant hose housing (with the thermostat, good time to replace it), and the studs on the top tranny mount.
FYI: The aluminum thread for the thermostat housing is SOFT, so be careful not to strip...and also apply liquid gasket while your at it, no sense in putting it together and having a leak.....not that i did....haha
VVVRear Mount
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0118.jpg

We then aimed the tranny in the way it came out. Try aiming for where the rear tranny mount was. Then its a matter of lowering the tranny and engine to the perfect level and wedging it in. Trust me, you will know when the inner shaft is finally meeting the clutch disc perfectly, and once your in it should slide in like butter (we put some good grease on the splines before putting it in).

Small things to remember:
Place the small plate covering where the driveplate bolts used to be on the motor side of the setup
VVV This
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0089.jpg
Replace Cotter pins where the driveaxles come through (at lowes)
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0065-1.jpg

And this is the black harness we use to trick the ECU into thinking its in Neutral
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/DSC_0125.jpg
*Will add pics and instruction on what wires later

We then can run the clutch
VVV Sorry no real pics, but its fairly simple.
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r126/warriorlax220/CLUTCHLINE.jpg



Final Thoughts
I won't lie, that swap was a bit of a PITA at times, but well worth it. The car is quite honestly a new beast, and drives amazing.

Key parts of the swap that were most irritating were bolting the shift lines through the firewall, removing the TOB (because of the fork), aligning the tranny without the use of hydraulic lifts and such, and thats about it.

Make sure you have all the correct parts together before beginning the swap and expect the tiniest things to be the most painful and take the longest.

Seriously, anyone that needs help or advice, I am willing to lend a hand or at least a comment, PM me anytime.




For Later on...,
HOW TO WIRE CRUISE CONTROL CORRECTLY

To make the cruise control work you have to cut/remove/eliminate a wire from the cruise ECU harness, (pin #3, its a pink/green wire), located behind the center/lower dash, its visible in upper left of the picture; run a wire from the clutch pedal interlock switch (the one farther from the firewall on the clutch pedal) to the cruise ECU, cut cable pin #13 (black/yellow), connect that one (cruise ECU side, note wire position in the below pic) to switch pin #2 and connect pin#1 from the switch to chassis ground. It works, I tested it. I don't know if you have to remove the lower dash to access the connector (I don't think so), I had everything disassembled for the manual swap. Anyways, look picture below.

Picture of what to wire (http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s80/galantfan/Manual%20tranny%20swap/CopyofIMG_1475.jpg)

I hope this is useful for someone else!

[Jeffylou87]

Thank you god! Take millions of pictures. I plan on doing this very soon.

[DryBear]

FYI, the 3G Eclipse service manual can be found at club3g.com, and can be helpful as well.

[bronxbombr]

Nice, cant wait to try it.

[bronxbombr]

hey is it me or is my post count fucked up. I have way over 6000 post and now i see not even a fraction of them.

[mrjaydeeone]

hey is it me or is my post count fucked up. I have way over 6000 post and now i see not even a fraction of them.
Albert refer to this post https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?t=34569

[00galantguy]

awesome. very well written and easy to follow!

[bmaddock]

Thanks you guys, Im really hoping this will help anyone on the verge of trying to swap. Mine is going to be slow but I plan on making it easy to follow and help collect a lot of info in this one thread.

Also, once I'm finished, I'll post this swap thread on a few other forums because honestly almost every galant related forum has helped me with information so far.

[GOOSEY2099]

This really shouldn't take that long at all. Me and a friend of mine did a swap for another member on this forum yesterday, and if it wasn't for the lack of 1 bracket we would have finished under 4 hours.

[Da_silvagride]

This really shouldn't take that long at all. Me and a friend of mine did a swap for another member on this forum yesterday, and if it wasn't for the lack of 1 bracket we would have finished under 4 hours.

4hrs! wow bro. You want to help do mine in the summer?

[DryBear]

This really shouldn't take that long at all. Me and a friend of mine did a swap for another member on this forum yesterday, and if it wasn't for the lack of 1 bracket we would have finished under 4 hours.

What that on a V6? The I4s are pretty easy to swap, as you can benchpress the manual transmission in :lol:

[djakay]

This really shouldn't take that long at all. Me and a friend of mine did a swap for another member on this forum yesterday, and if it wasn't for the lack of 1 bracket we would have finished under 4 hours.

If you guys can do that for my V6, i'm coming after you this summer.

[bmaddock]

Wow! 4 hours is ridiculous. My biggest issues are that I don't have the parts in my physical possesion yet, doing it in my garage, and the fact that basically its just me and my dad are doing it, and he, as well as I, have been working a lot lately. So I'm taking it slow until I have everything. :/

[GOOSEY2099]

v6 can be done even quicker

[GOOSEY2099]

What that on a V6? The I4s are pretty easy to swap, as you can benchpress the manual transmission in :lol:

All you need is the right tools. Like a hydrolic transmission jack :) Last year i had to take my own tranny out due to a bad bearing. The thing was shot so badly that i had to do it in the driveway.... Never doing that again..

[Jeffylou87]

Roman.. You know I'm contacting you when my tranny arrives right?

[GOOSEY2099]

no problem... Call anytime..

[bmaddock]

**Updated**

I hope this is helping some people. Like I said very slow work but whatever. This saturday me and my dad should be dropping the automatic and if all goes well and i get my clutch shipped in by then, will try to lift the 5 speed in. :)

[GOOSEY2099]

you didn't need to take all that off, just needed a 12mm swivel socket.

[bmaddock]

Yeah i realized that haha, i didnt know and plus i was bored waiting to get all the parts so i just started ripping things apart and cleaning them. I wish the project could move faster but my time frames arent matching up right.

[HondaKillerGTZ]

I hope to do my V6 tranny swap this weekend, I'm still waiting for some smaller parts (hope to get them maybe tomorrow), and I will also take as many pictures as I can. I will try to be specific on some wiring changes, including clutch interlock switch, starter circuit, etc. BTW, I already know how to keep cruise control working... :rolleyes:

[HondaKillerGTZ]

Yeah i realized that haha, i didnt know and plus i was bored waiting to get all the parts so i just started ripping things apart and cleaning them. I wish the project could move faster but my time frames arent matching up right.

I got bored too of be waiting for parts, wanted to keep the car usable, and a few days back got tired of looking at some parts...

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s80/galantfan/IMG_1471nlkglghlkbhk.jpg

Yup, I installed pedals :D

[bmaddock]

Nice dude, yeah my tranny is gone so its just sitting in the garage on stands waiting haha. Im still baffled at how it went, maybe pulling it out will help answer my problem

[DryBear]

FWIW, I used a flexible extension like this one:
http://www.drillspot.com/pimages/145/14548_300.jpg

to get to the bolts holding the shifter lines to the firewall.

[bmaddock]

*UPDATED*

And man am i getting tired of how slow this swap is going.
As of now, in my most likely delusional head,
I will be getting the flywheel resurfaced this week, clutch should arrive soon (damn snow slowing its arrival down), pedals installed, and master installed.
Then on this saturday we do plan on dropping the automatic and depending on how things go, try and lift the 5 speed in.

[Jeffylou87]

Can you take like 1738273 pictures of the master and slave install.. And if you needed extra parts like hoses and such?

[bmaddock]

Can do. Yeah let me know if you want me to go back and add more pics wherever things get fuzzy.

[Jeffylou87]

Just add as many as you can.. I want you to post so many pictures that Proto has to add another HDD to the TGC server.. I want to make sure I do this right when the time comes.. You will definitely be one to be thanked by me when I do this.. I'm good with the pedals, shifter and axle.. I need more pictures and info on the cylinders and the starter plate..

[bmaddock]

Alright, yeah i keep forgetting to take pics so time to go a little trigger happy, maybe a stop motion swap?? haha.

Yeah to be honest, Im a little confused on the whole starter plate thing, because from what i can see, the auto starter plate looks very similar to the manual one, i will do a better comparison once i pull everything out though.

[blkg01]

yea the starter plates are a lil different but even so i just used the one from the auto and grinded down the difference. The auto one is a bit smaller and a lil offset which causes it to sit so close to the flywheel that is grinds when its started up. Like i said though i grinded it and theres no problem now.

[bmaddock]

Oh okay cool. Yeah I'll definitly document through photo the difference.

[DryBear]

Manual Starter plate on top of automatic starter plate:
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a268/DryBear/8G%20Manual%20Swap%20Pics/2006-08-1316-10-15DCP_0021.jpg

[HondaKillerGTZ]

Ok, what about tranny fluid? I read good reviews on club3g.org about the "grey mix", which is 2 qts of Redline MTL + 1qt BG Syncroshift, but what about everyone else experience? Any other suggestions?? I ask because I cant get any BG Syncroshift locally.

Also, how do you guys hold the engine while the tranny is off the car? I will take out the auto tranny later today and I dont want to dent the oil pan with a jack/stand.

[HondaKillerGTZ]

Manual Starter plate on top of automatic starter plate:
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a268/DryBear/8G%20Manual%20Swap%20Pics/2006-08-1316-10-15DCP_0021.jpg

Looks like I wasted $25 on the manual plate :confused:

[fatal1]

syncromesh works really well..i used that with a quart of lucas recently and it shifts smooth as anything

[seth98esT]

Looks like I wasted $25 on the manual plate :confused:

Starter is in a half inch off between the two plates. I paid $11 for my manual plate, very good investment. Beats cutting the automatic plate.

[GOOSEY2099]

syncromesh works really well..i used that with a quart of lucas recently and it shifts smooth as anything

did you put the missing peice back in the shifter assembly?? if so thats why it shift smooth.

[therev]

Awesome tutorial, thanks for posting all the links that i may or may not need while researching on how to do this, helps alot especially since i dont have to search! haha thanks bro, glad u got it done!

~Gabe

[fatal1]

did you put the missing peice back in the shifter assembly?? if so thats why it shift smooth.

lmao haha nope stil havent ordered it i did save the part # you sent me though, i will do it soon, the slight play in the shifter doesnt bother me much i actually dont even notice it

[4g63lover]

how did you remove the axle from the hub?? did you unbolt the Lower control arm or the ball joint?

[DryBear]

Which axle? The passenger side axle on the V6 has a bracket that bolts to the engine block - there are two bolts if I remember correctly, then you can pry the bracket away from the engine as it sits on a metal dowel (or 2).

To get the axle out of the tranny (presuming you have removed the hub assembly), just use a prybar to pop it out. *Do not* pull on the axle as you could damage the joints.

EDIT: Reading comprehension owns me :lol:

To get the axle out of the hub, I just unbolted the lower control arm, and pulled it down so the hub assembly can move around. Use a mallet to gently tap the axle out of the hub. Turning the wheels to the side you are pulling out also helps.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a268/DryBear/8G%20Manual%20Swap%20Pics/RemoveHub.jpg

[bmaddock]

^^^exactly what I did, I'm going to steal that diagram you just posted and put it on the first post. Sorry guys I haven't been taking as many pics as I wanted. I'm going to start taking some more to clear some confusion.

[HondaKillerGTZ]

^^ I just removed the knuckles with everything attached, makes more room to work around, and its also easier than removing the axle nut.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s80/galantfan/Manual%20tranny%20swap/IMG_1517.jpg

EDIT: Just finished pulling the fucker out of the car, it wasn't that hard :rolleyes:

[Jeffylou87]

This looks easier and easier with each post that you guys make..

[bronxbombr]

nice

[HondaKillerGTZ]

This looks easier and easier with each post that you guys make..

The hardest part of all is removing/installing shifter wires, its a pain in the ass to replace it, it took me about 3 hours just for that. Everything else is easier to do if you have the right tools.



Also, I uploaded some pictures, including the cruise control wiring, check my previous post regarding it here: Cruise Control: how to make it work in your 8G after your tranny swap (https://thegalantcenter.net/forum/showpost.php?p=476739&postcount=10)

[DryBear]

Taking the auto tranny out is pretty easy - the hardest part for me was trying to install the manual tranny from underneath - I could not for the life of me get it to go in from underneath as the tranny would hit the subframe. It was much easier to pull out the engine and install the engine+tranny together.

[bmaddock]

^^^Crap, see thats what is worrying me is getting the 5 speed in.

Yeah HondaKiller, getting the shifter lines through is the biggest pain in the ASS.

EDIT: thanks for the hyperlink to wiring cruise control, will update first post this afternoon, i gotta go to school now. Haha i love virginia, we get 6 inches of snow and have been out of school for 3 days and today is a 2 hour delay ha!

Double EDIT:
On the contrary of living in VA, my clutch still hasn't arrived because of the snow, URG

[Ivory8g]

Mmmm so far so good....wow it feels like I did mine so long ago....

[HondaKillerGTZ]

About the v6 passenger side drive axle: I read somewhere that somebody modified the auto tranny inner shaft and installed it on the manual. Is this true? If its true, how the hell I do it? I ordered the inner shaft from the dealer but its in back order until who knows when. Its the only part I don't have to finish the car.

SOMEBODY PLEASE HELP ME!!!!

[fatal1]

the problem with the auto axle is its too short hence why you need to get the 3g manual one...im sure it can be modified however i would personally (and have for that matter) just get the 3g one so you are indefinately sure it works

[DryBear]

Good luck with getting the shaft from the dealership (pun not intended :lol:).

Check your local junkyards. The one from the Dodge Stratus R/T manual fits too.

[HondaKillerGTZ]

Ok, I'm back from installing the tranny (was a pain in the ass), then tested the inner shaft, the auto tranny one actually is like 2mm longer than the manual one; and the splines are different (it slips) (THIS IS FALSE, I DOUBLE CHECKED), so I have no luck with it.

BTW, congrats to myself, I'm officially 5 speed!!



Good luck with getting the shaft from the dealership (pun not intended :lol:).

Check your local junkyards. The one from the Dodge Stratus R/T manual fits too.

^^^ I checked every single junkyard locally, I found nothing!! I ordered the transmission from a place in Florida, then got it shipped here. I will call there on Monday, test my luck and see if they have the axle available. Otherwise, I will have to wait for the dealer. :(


EDIT: The auto tranny inner shaft splines are the same as the manual tranny, and its still like 2.5mm longer. Just to clarify that ;)

Also, I still haven't found the inner shaft, if somebody could help me find one, I will be happily thankful!!

[bmaddock]

^^^Congrats man!

**Updated**
Yep, another freaking weekend where i cant do anything. Me and my dad were supposed to drop the auto today and hopefully attempt to get the 5 speed in BUT, as said in another thread, my dad just laid off half of the employees under him and is now working his ass off.
I'm considering at this point just to attempt dropping the auto with a friend instead of waiting, im getting impatient.

Oh and pics were added here and there in the thread so it makes more sense.

edit: Oh and Jeffylou, i did add the pics of master install, let me know if that helped or you want more.
And 4g63lover, i added pics of the hub removal

[6G72T]

this may be a retarded question, and may have been answered before, but why is the pass. side axle replaced with the tranny being on the drivers? seems odd, i know there is a probable explanation that i can't think of.

[bmaddock]

Its because of the way the manual transmission is set up, in this case its differential sits a little off compared to the automatic and therefore the automatic's passenger side intermediate shaft on the driveaxle is i believe longer (might be shorter) then what the manual tranny is set up for.

Technically all you need is that intermediate shaft (passenger side) but you might as well grab the whole thing.

Same thing goes for the starter plate, its just a quirky and tiny little difference. (refer to the original post for a pic of the difference between auto and manual starter plate)

Hmm maybe later ill take a pic of the difference between manual and auto intermediate shaft...

[Jeffylou87]

Would you be able to get pictures of the cylinder from the engine bay?

[6G72T]

quoted from goosey: "2001: REQUIRES A 2000 AUTO ECU/IMMOBILIZER WHICH YOU NEED TO GET REINITIALIZED AT THE DEALER IN ORDER TO GET RID OF THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT"

is this still true whether its for the V6 or not? does it affect driving habits?

Steve

[fatal1]

it is true for the v6 as well

it doesnt effect driving at all but you will either have to get an immobilizer that is flashed so you dont need to have it probrammed, or, you will have to take it to the dealer so they can rogram it to your key

[DryBear]

Would you be able to get pictures of the cylinder from the engine bay?

What exactly do you want to see?

[bmaddock]

Would you be able to get pictures of the cylinder from the engine bay?

Yeah i'll get some pics once i get home from school this afternoon, actually i might have already taken a pic just didnt upload on accident.

So in essence, I'm down to dropping the automatic, (very vague) installing the 5 speed, reassembling my engine bay, adding fluids, and then ill be done.....hopefully. Oh and i guess going and getting that check engine light flashed and maybe wiring my cruise control.

[6G72T]

ok so that would be a dealer item then. how much does that run? or I will call and find out but what do I ask for?

[HondaKillerGTZ]

Update: I was able to start the car earlier tonight, I immediately noted the starter sounded different, sounds nicer, no torque converter whine, and everything feels smooth like brand new, not a single noise from anywhere. I also noted that revs really quick, thanks Fidanza!! I only need the damn inner shaft for finishing and taking her for a little ride.

Also, wanted to add something; I hate the way the clutch reservoir looks in 3G eclipses, and I wanted mine to look 1000 times better than that. After some research, reading service manuals, and browsing the Mitsu parts catalogs, I found something interesting (in case you didn't know, 99-00 Galant OEM service manuals have specific parts about clutch and manual transaxle for the I-4)

My "8G JDM" clutch reservoir:

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s80/galantfan/Manual%20tranny%20swap/IMG_1545.jpg

It is specific for 8th gen Galants, fits directly to the Eclipse master cylinder, and the interesting part is that it can be ordered from your favorite OEM parts source, just ask for part# MR333902, price is around $4-5 bucks. Please note that the reservoir cap is not included, it is part# MB555135 and price is around $7-10.

VVV Another shot, everything almost in place
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s80/galantfan/Manual%20tranny%20swap/IMG_1551.jpg

[fatal1]

ok so that would be a dealer item then. how much does that run? or I will call and find out but what do I ask for?

i am assuming you are referring to my answer, while you can get the ecu and immobilizer from the dealer im sure it will cost an arm and a leg. better off getting it from a junkyard etc...you would need the ecu with the immobilizer...basically its just the ecu which allows your key to start the engine...you wouldnt actually need the dealer to perform the service, they will change the imobilizer to recognize your key rather then the car it was originally on

[4g63lover]

My "8G JDM" clutch reservoir:

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s80/galantfan/Manual%20tranny%20swap/IMG_1545.jpg

It is specific for 8th gen Galants, fits directly to the Eclipse master cylinder, and the interesting part is that it can be ordered from your favorite OEM parts source, just ask for part# MR333902, price is around $4-5 bucks. Please note that the reservoir cap is not included, it is part# MB555135 and price is around $7-10.


so will i find that at the dealer?

[HondaKillerGTZ]

^^ its possible that they have to order it, but yes, its available

[gtx]

^^^ That's neat, good way to save some room. I've seen the same setup on either some 2g's or 3kgts, but I didn't know you can just swap over the container.

4g63lover, yes, it comes up in our catalog (other american mitsus must use the same exact part)

[4g63lover]

cool!!! I'm going to get one for myself.

[bmaddock]

Awesome find!, I actually havent drilled the holes yet so i think ill go order that now. :)

[Jeffylou87]

That resivour deletes another line and bracket.. Amazing

[4g63lover]

That resivour deletes another line and bracket.. Amazing

my thoughts exactly.

[Jeffylou87]

I just spent the last few hours studying and going over part numbers.. I went to the dealership today and they can get the reservoir and the cap.. Under $10 for me cause I used to work there.. haha.. Anywho, I got prices for each and every part that goes in between the clutch pedal to the end of the slave. Including the intermediate shaft, everything is around $300. The only thing left for me to find is the shifter assembly with cables and a clutch pedal. Then I would have to go on my hunt for a good deal on a clutch kit and a flywheel. Then comes short shifter and bushings..

[6G72T]

i am assuming you are referring to my answer, while you can get the ecu and immobilizer from the dealer im sure it will cost an arm and a leg. better off getting it from a junkyard etc...you would need the ecu with the immobilizer...basically its just the ecu which allows your key to start the engine...you wouldnt actually need the dealer to perform the service, they will change the imobilizer to recognize your key rather then the car it was originally on

so I am getting the ECU for the 00 Auto; where is the immobilizer located? never did one of those. lol

[gtx]

so I am getting the ECU for the 00 Auto; where is the immobilizer located? never did one of those. lol
Are you a '01? If you are ready to drop all that money on a new ecu and immob, I'd buy one from a late '01 MT Eclipse. In case you ever want to flash the car.

[6G72T]

Are you a '01? If you are ready to drop all that money on a new ecu and immob, I'd buy one from a late '01 MT Eclipse. In case you ever want to flash the car.

yeah i'll have to, i'll just grab that when i am at the junkyard. if everything else is there why not right? lol

But when I do get everything said and done, the first start up it should just start right?

[6G72T]

Well, I had a terrible, unsuccessful trip to 4 junkyards. Terrible day yesterday. I had money to blow too. lol But, I will keep my head up. I actually found 1 2nd gen Avenger with a metal shifter assembly so it wasn't going to work. I will try one right down the street from me this week to see whats good. I took a sneak peak and its full of newer cars. I saw a 3kgt in there too so something has to be good. lol Never see those in any yard around here. But if I can't find anything, I might get to the point where I am sending money for you guys to spend for me at your yards. So I'll keep you all posted here or start my own project thread.

Steve

[6G72T]

Sooooo....no update in a while whats up here dude?

Steve

[bmaddock]

FML haha, well I ran into an issue with the clutch and flywheel, I will elaborate in a little, I really need to finish a project for school then I'll update with pics and all within the hour.

[bmaddock]

So one mitsubishipowered.com, I discussed an issue I ran across.

Basically I have a 2-piece R/T flywheel and bought an Eclipse clutch (all OEM replacements), and when I tried putting the pressure plate back over the clutch disc, it didnt make contact with the flywheel and we had a gap issue that didnt allow the clutch disc to be held in place like it should have.

Although not completely proven, BJ, TJ, and I came to the conclusion that the 2piece flywheels use the R/T clutch and one piece flywheels use Eclipse clutches.

Here are some pics
VVVSide by side (left is the old R/T pressure plate and on the right is the new eclipse one
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v222/SPARTAN04/DSC_0106.jpg
VVV R/T
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v222/SPARTAN04/DSC_0107.jpg
VVV Eclipse
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v222/SPARTAN04/DSC_0110.jpg

Notice how the R/T's is thicker to make up for the difference in what I believe to be between the Eclipse and R/T flywheels. That is why when I bolted the Eclipse clutch to my R/T flywheel, the clutch disc was not held firmly.

More Research:
I ordered an Exedy OEM replacement clutch (KMB02) for a Mitsubishi Eclipse GT
Disc Outer Diameter = 225mm(8-7/8in)
Spline Teeth / Major Diameter =23T / 1in

And this is an Exedy OEM replacement clutch (KMB03) for a Stratus R/T
Disc Outer Diameter =230mm(9-1/16in)
Spline Teeth / Major Diameter =23T / 15/16in


So right now I am waiting for a new R/T clutch to come in..ugh haha

[Jeffylou87]

Millimeters.. Jeez..

[bmaddock]

Yeah I know, you should of seen the look on my face when I was going to remove the alignment tool. I wiggled it and saw the clutch disc move, my heart sank. Then I pulled the alignment tool all the way out and plunk!, the clutch disc fell to the bottom of the pressure plate cover.

But I'm glad I figured it out, or at least I'm assuming I did. Once the new R/T clutch comes in it better fit or I'm gonna explode haha

[fatal1]

i do recall vaguely something about the r/t being slightly different then the eclipse tranny...i just couldnt remember off hand what exactly it was...i guess this would be it lol

[bmaddock]

Yeah haha, well I believe the tranny still is the same (F5M51) but the clutch/flywheel combos between the R/T and Eclipse are different. We came to the conclusion that its because the Eclipse flywheel is one piece and my R/T is two piece.

[gtx]

My understanding was that as long you mate the correct flywheel to the correct clutch, you should be good. (RT to RT, eclipse to eclipse). Anyway, my eclipse factory flywheel was 2 piece too. So two piece actually, that I only got the outer part of it :D The clutch disc was 225mm. (I ended up buying a fidanza and an exedy stage 1 clutch.) Here they are, the original, oem leftowers:http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g93/OneBlackGTZ/for%20sale/100_8715.jpg

[Jeffylou87]

Great news ppl! I found everything I needed at a local junk yard from a donor eclipse. The owner is giving me everything I need for the swap minus the axle for $642!!!! Put a $150 deposit on it and I'll be picking it up as soon as its all out of the car.. I'm so excited!

[DryBear]

From what I recall, the R/T uses a stepped clutch. FWIW, I am running an Eclipse flywheel/clutch (Fidanza Flywheel/Spec Stage 2 Clutch) with a tranny sourced from an R/T with no problems.

[bmaddock]

Alright so TJ was right that the eclipse did come with a 2-piece flywheel at one point, so as it stands now, r/t goes with r/t and eclipse with eclipse when it comes to flywheel/clutch combo, transmission is the same regardless.

Oh and Jeffy, SICK DEAL!, that price is awesome, do you know how many miles were on it?

[HondaKillerGTZ]

Great news ppl! I found everything I needed at a local junk yard from a donor eclipse. The owner is giving me everything I need for the swap minus the axle for $642!!!! Put a $150 deposit on it and I'll be picking it up as soon as its all out of the car.. I'm so excited!


Excellent price, I spent almost 3 times what you spent ($1736 to be exact), but I don't regret it, the thing is wonderful to drive!!

[HondaKillerGTZ]

Another interesting note: the I4 clutch master cylinder can be used with the V6 (what I'm doing), both masters' inside diameters are the same, the only difference is that the V6 one have a damper under it for killing some vibrations felt on the clutch pedal at high RPMs, nothing else.

[6G72T]

this is all good news people!! I have found everything but the tranny itself for me. I have a guy on club3G for all interior parts plus master/slave for $130!! Then clutch kit incl. press plate, clutch disc, pilot bearing, and 2 new axle seals for $377. Almost there.

Steve

[DryBear]

FYI, there is no pilot bearing for the V6. However, there is a clutch release bearing.

[6G72T]

FYI, there is no pilot bearing for the V6. However, there is a clutch release bearing.

yeah i had a brain fart last night. I knew there was a bearing but I couldn't think of it and thats what i went with. lol oops. but yeah thats all up at the dealer now and I have to go get that. Will have most of all of this next week.

Steve

[bmaddock]

Wow this is sweet, so many V6 guys going 5 speed lately haha, or at least it seems that way.

[Jeffylou87]

All because of you my man.. Big thanks to you.. :bow:

[therev]

same, soon i will too make my v6 a BEAST! thanks for the info

~Gabe

[bmaddock]

No problem you guys, this is all I wanted was to help a few other people like me, who needed some visual aid. :)

Oh and I added a link on how to wire you're reverse lights and trick the ECU into neutral near the end of the swap. Once my new clutch (Urg!..) comes in this friday, I will add the final pictures on for some closure to this project.

[Jeffylou87]

I cut my brake pedal and drilled out the holes for the master today. I'm picking up all my parts this week!! :-D

[bmaddock]

In a few days, I will be selling my 3G Eclipse Clutch kit (pressure plate, clutch disc, alignment tool, throw out bearing), so anyone interested keep an eye out for it.

More info, its literally Brand New Exedy OEM replacement for the eclipse. Big thing is i will sell it for fairly cheap because i need it gone, most likely for around $150 shipped

This will be great for anyone looking to 5 speed swap soon and replace the clutch.


PM me if interested

[Jeffylou87]

I installed my master and the clutch pedal today! Along with the reservoir that cleanly sits on top.. I have every single part I need now! Already ordered the Exedy clutch kit along with a fidanza flywheel before your post :/ Anyways, got the intermediate shaft and reservoir with cap from the dealer today and picked up my tranny. Old gear fluid smells like ass btw..

Oh and FYI!!! The cap that is on the stock reservoir on the eclipse fits the clean reservoir. So, if you have a donor car, you can save like $3 from having to buy a new cap. :P

[therev]

Cant you just mod the shifter? Simply cut the shifter shorter? then screw the top into it and theres the short shifter?

~Gabe

[gtx]

Also, I was wondering about a short shifter... People who have done the manual swap to their Galants don't get short shifters. I thought about it and realized that I haven't seen one that was swapped with a short shifter. Then I put a little thought into it and realized that the arm rest would definitely get in the way when trying to shift with it. Thoughts?
I do have a short shifter, and I'd bet a bunch of others who swapped does as well... I have no problem shifting because of the arm rest.

[DryBear]

I also have a short shifter (Megan Racing). Initially, I didn't run with the whole center console for a while (it was naked! :lol:). When I finally put the center console back, the arm rest felt a bit weird, but hasn't caused any difficulty in shifting, unless I have a big gulp cup in the front cup-holder. The armrest is actually comfortable when shifting :)

[fatal1]

to my knowledge everyone just about has one...it just doesnt appear to be sunk as it does on the eclipse because the way out center is made and how the assembly sits...

roman also made his even shorter. look in the tutorial thread

[GOOSEY2099]

^ yup and i love it.

[6G72T]

Well, all of my stuff should be here tomorrow from a guy on club3G. Shifter assy, pedals, master/slave, and my real cf shift boot. lol its sick looking. dry cf stitched into a boot. But i have yet to pick up my clutch kit at Mitsu. bills come first. lol I'm just excited to get this done.

But while on this topic, I am going with the fidanza short shiter. had good luck and felt good on my talon back when i had that if you guys even remember that thing. my car will be stripped out from now on. it has been for a while now so im not worried about the console at all.

Steve

[bmaddock]

***Final Update...........basically...

As of now I have had the car running for a few days now, and wow i wish i brushed up on my manual driving before i finished but man is it a great feeling going through the gears.

As some of you may already know, i seriously am willing to help to the best of my ability others that want info, just PM me.

And please post in this thread if you want me to take more pictures of a certain aspect of the swap and I will. Also ask if you want me to explain anything in greater detail.

Hope all goes well to the few who are currently gathering parts for the swap.

[DryBear]

Didn't get pictures to but before bolting the transaxle to the engine, make sure to replace your throw out bearing. To do this, we had to remove the fork, then take the TOB out. Its a pain in the ass getting the fork off but that was the only way the TOB would slip off the inner shaft. If some one comes up with a better method of removing the fork, please post it. We had to drill a tiny hole to slip the rod the fork sits on out of the tranny
VVV Here is the tiny hole next to the crossmember that isnt plugged.

Actually, just above the pin that holds the fork in place (#14) is a cap that you can pop out (#13) with a flathead, so you can pull out that pin from the top (after removing the bolt holding the pin in place).

Be sure to note the orientation of the springs (#15 and #21) before removing the pin.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a268/DryBear/8G%20Diagrams/ClutchAssembly.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a268/DryBear/8G%20Manual%20Swap%20Pics/2006-08-2518-43-24DCP_0091Notes.jpg

[DryBear]

Also, make sure that the shifter cable is not touching the rear exhaust manifold. Melted shifter cables are not fun :lol:

[bmaddock]

Thanks man! Great advice and i have no freaking clue how we missed that cap, wow i feel stupid now but oh well, hopefully i never have to see the fork again....(fingers crossed)

Oh and I think I will check my shifter cables tomorrow morning, now I'm paranoid they will be burnt haha.

Thanks again.

EDIT: Oh and nevermind, yeah I knew about the cap on top of the tranny for the fork but our issue was that we couldn't get the rod to budge out so we had to drill a hole on the other side so that we could get a nail setter there, allowing us to get leverage into tapping it out.

[hsinya]

nice. good to see more and more v6 manuals! i have the fidanza adjustable shifter set to shortest. i'm a short guy and the armrest makes shifting kind of awkward at first but i'm used to it now. had the stock shifter at first too and the armrest was still awkward lol

[Juansito]

About how much money this swap cost ?

[beam514]

anyone have a part # for the manual starter plate?

[HondaKillerGTZ]

V6 starter plate: 1055A022

[beam514]

thanks!

damn $36 for a fucking sheet of metal.. without shipping bleh

[beam514]

okay I cannot locate the passenger side intermediate shaft for the life of me. And the junkyard guys swear on their life that its the same part as on the automatic transmission, because the car-part.com register doesn't recognize the differences between the two. AHHH SOO frustrating. Can someone get the part number for me?

Edit: Nevermind, found the parts for $150 shipped from up in Norcal

They have a full 2002 Stratus RT Manual (except the clutch pedal and intermediate shaft) if anyone is interested. 60,000 miles on the odo
Name of the place is KHS Auto Dismantling

[bmaddock]

^^ seems pricey, but i guess you gotta do what ya gotta do to get the part.

I'm hoping this tutorial has helped more people, i don't go on very often but the how-to has quite a bit of views since way back when i posted more frequently. Anyways hope your full swap goes well beam, youre a beast for undertaking all that, just read through some of your threads.

well off to lowes i go, lowering my short shifter even more now that im on winter break ;)

[beam514]

okay another question for the wiring:
when you short out pins 9 and 10, are those the thicker wires? I would assume so. Anyway I was looking at the circuit diagram, then i realized that I wired it wrong. Then I looked at it again and realized that I wired it wrong after I fixed it I think. On the ECU side of the harness, is pin #1 on the right or left?

[DryBear]

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a268/DryBear/8G%20Diagrams/90-33Auto-Ignition.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a268/DryBear/8G%20Diagrams/B-39Pinout.jpg

I just stuck a wire in the 9 and 10 female pin sockets of the harness plug (the one that originally plugged into the auto tranny) to short them out.

[beam514]

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a268/DryBear/8G%20Diagrams/90-33Auto-Ignition.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a268/DryBear/8G%20Diagrams/B-39Pinout.jpg

I just stuck a wire in the 9 and 10 female pin sockets of the harness plug (the one that originally plugged into the auto tranny) to short them out.

yea but what I'm wondering is which one is 9 and 10? cause it depends on which side you are looking at. The circuit diagram shows pic #1 being on the left, but is this for the transmission side of the plug, or the ECU side of the plug?

ie is that pin layout for the ECU side of the plug? because if it is then I wired it correctly after I fixed it. If its the transmission side of the plug, then I need to reverse it

[4g63lover]

The wiring is pretty easy. Look at the pinout diagram, pins 7, 8, 9, and 10 are on the bottom. So go to the harness and you will instantly be able to tell which one is 7, 8, 9, and 10 by the number of wires in that row. Now, 9 and 10 is black/yellow and red/black. Splice and connect and TADA! The ECU thinks it's in Neutral. I actually ended up cutting and crimping connectors onto mine because I couldnt get any good connectivity with the splice connectors.

EDIT: I ran to the garage and checked, it looks like the pinout shows the side where the wires go into the connector. To make sure, before you start her up make sure the wires you connected are the same colors as stated ^^ there.

[beam514]

The wiring is pretty easy. Look at the pinout diagram, pins 7, 8, 9, and 10 are on the bottom. So go to the harness and you will instantly be able to tell which one is 7, 8, 9, and 10 by the number of wires in that row. Now, 9 and 10 is black/yellow and red/yellow. Splice and connect and TADA! The ECU thinks it's in Neutral. I actually ended up cutting and crimping connectors onto mine because I couldnt get any good connectivity with the splice connectors.

okay at least you gave me wire colors LOL. because what I'm saying is that the circuit diagram can be interpreted in two ways: the plug shown is the ECU side of the plug, or transmission side. Whatever one its for, the pins are going to be on the opposite side for the other plug. And since I'm dealing with the ECU side, I need to know which one is shown in the diagram so I can know to reverse it or not

and actually I just checked and I don't even have a red/yellow

[4g63lover]

ah dammit. I meant to put red/black. WTF Jigz! lol.

[beam514]

okay this is how I first had it set up:
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc141/beam514/Galant%20Photos/th_ECUconnector1.jpg (http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc141/beam514/Galant%20Photos/ECUconnector1.jpg)
the two thick wires were 9 and 10 and were shorted together (makes sense right? cause the it goes to the starter?)
black with red and black with yellow were shorted together
black with white and red with grey were wired to the speedo sensor


this is how I have it set up now
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc141/beam514/Galant%20Photos/th_ECUconnector2.jpg (http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc141/beam514/Galant%20Photos/ECUconnector2.jpg)
two thin wires were shorted and the thick wires went to the speedo sensor
I'll check on colors in just a moment

[hsinya]

this just occured to me. in order to use cruise control again i just need to splice in a switch between neutral and D to pin 10... anyone tried it? will it cause any problems? and anyone know which pin is D off the top of their head? i'll have to look it up later tonight. another minor project for me to look into lol

[4g63lover]

okay this is how I first had it set up:
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc141/beam514/Galant%20Photos/th_ECUconnector1.jpg (http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc141/beam514/Galant%20Photos/ECUconnector1.jpg)
the two thick wires were 9 and 10 and were shorted together (makes sense right? cause the it goes to the starter?)
black with red and black with yellow were shorted together
black with white and red with grey were wired to the speedo sensor


this is how I have it set up now
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc141/beam514/Galant%20Photos/th_ECUconnector2.jpg (http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc141/beam514/Galant%20Photos/ECUconnector2.jpg)
two thin wires were shorted and the thick wires went to the speedo sensor
I'll check on colors in just a moment

You got it the first time. 7 and 8 goes to reverse gear solenoid for the reverse lights, not the speedo sensor. 9 and 10 is shorted out to think the car is in Neutral.

[beam514]

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc141/beam514/Galant%20Photos/th_transmissionconnector.jpg (http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc141/beam514/Galant%20Photos/transmissionconnector.jpg)

here's the circuit diagram

[beam514]

You got it the first time. 7 and 8 goes to reverse gear solenoid for the reverse lights, not the speedo sensor. 9 and 10 is shorted out to think the car is in Neutral.

err yea oops that's what I meant. We all make mistakes.. cough cough

[4g63lover]

err yea oops that's what I meant. We all make mistakes.. cough cough

lol. yeah.

[Galantman03]

just kinda curious if you saved your cruise control? would be interesting if you did, any info woud be great!!

[alan2fast]

i have the i4 i wont to swap what parts do i need can you guys write out a list and send it to me

[stvn_mj]

^Sure I will make a list in the search button at the top of the page.

[beam514]

easier to just post the link
https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?t=16557

[shane]

easier to just post the link
https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?t=16557

Do I need to get a new ECU to complete this Automatic To 5-speed swap? I'm confused at the part where you short out the pins on the black harness to trick the ECU to thinking your in neutral. Basically does this mean you guys are keeping the stock ECU and tricking it to work with the 5 speed trans?

[beam514]

I'm confused at the part where you short out the pins on the black harness to trick the ECU to thinking your in neutral. Basically does this mean you guys are keeping the stock ECU and tricking it to work with the 5 speed trans?

Correct. But depending on your year, you may need the corresponding speed sensor or year of transmission. Also, years 2001-2003 will throw CELs after installing the 5-speed.

[atx]

off subject, but now there is more of you 5spd guys, do you think that you should have spend the $ for a lsd?

[hsinya]

yes its worth it (to me). put in a quaife after 2 years of doing the manual swap, been 3 years since.

its a significant investment though. it costs as much as doing a 5speed swap by yourself(free labor), and you wont really take advantage of having one, unless you do canyon runs or race every weekend. you also need some decent tires or its worthless, both wheels will just be spinning w/o traction. (which is whats happening to me right now, have yokohama avids, haven't invested in a good set of tires because i haven't put much attention to the car this past year)

so i guess weigh your benefits carefully.

[hsinya]

also, dunno if this also helps, maybe this will give you an idea of how much spirited driving i do, mostly canyon runs btw.

my g eats through a set of summer tires once a year after the manual swap. except last year, when they shut down angeles national forest because california was on fire. thats why i have avids right now, but these aren't lasting very long either.

[beam514]

also, dunno if this also helps, maybe this will give you an idea of how much spirited driving i do, mostly canyon runs btw.

my g eats through a set of summer tires once a year after the manual swap. except last year, when they shut down angeles national forest because california was on fire. thats why i have avids right now, but these aren't lasting very long either.

you need to come on a GMR run with us! ah
btw, did you ever wire up the cruise control? I was thinking about this the other day... as I have been having to drive 2.5 hours straight without it. It'd be nice to have it back lol.

[hsinya]

you need to come on a GMR run with us! ah
btw, did you ever wire up the cruise control? I was thinking about this the other day... as I have been having to drive 2.5 hours straight without it. It'd be nice to have it back lol.

i will lol. emerson has been inviting me to all these mini meets and i haven't had the time to go... and also haven't had time to mess with the car. should be having some spare time in the upcoming months in spring. also got some 225/45/17 falken 912's. now i just need to get alignment then i'm good to go lol

for the cruise control i was thinking of running wires from a switch to the auto tranny socket. lead1=neutral. lead2=drive. ground=gear selector to pcm/ecu.

i'm not sure how this will affect the ecu though. it doesnt throw the auto tranny solenoid codes in park/neutral... but i wonder if it will throw codes while the gear is set to drive though.... because the ecu is actually trying to shift while in D as opposed to P or N?

i'll definately put up a post whenever i actually get around to it

[beam514]

for the cruise control i was thinking of running wires from a switch to the auto tranny socket. lead1=neutral. lead2=drive. ground=gear selector to pcm/ecu.

i'm not sure how this will affect the ecu though. it doesnt throw the auto tranny solenoid codes in park/neutral... but i wonder if it will throw codes while the gear is set to drive though.... because the ecu is actually trying to shift while in D as opposed to P or N?

i'll definately put up a post whenever i actually get around to it

That's actually exactly what I was wondering also. I don't want to screw anything up, so I was hoping someone else already did it :P

BUT if you only use the cruise control on the highway, the car would never really need to shift anyway.. but then in Drive it might be looking for some kind of voltage across the solenoids, which are non existent.

I had about the same idea for the switch as well. I could also just leave it in "Drive" when parked, so it would actually be impossible to start the car unless you knew where the switch was.

[keith6110]

I owe this thread yet another thank you for the wiring information. Completely forgot which ones needed to be cut =)

[jmath99V6]

That's actually exactly what I was wondering also. I don't want to screw anything up, so I was hoping someone else already did it :P

BUT if you only use the cruise control on the highway, the car would never really need to shift anyway.. but then in Drive it might be looking for some kind of voltage across the solenoids, which are non existent.

I had about the same idea for the switch as well. I could also just leave it in "Drive" when parked, so it would actually be impossible to start the car unless you knew where the switch was.

My cruise works fine. I didn't connect the two wires on the harness like everybody else though. I ran them to the sensor that's on the front of the clutch pedal, so the they're jumped when the clutch pedal is depressed. But still, the ECU isn't reading anything from the transmission when cruise is on, so it should work fine

[hsinya]

My cruise works fine. I didn't connect the two wires on the harness like everybody else though. I ran them to the sensor that's on the front of the clutch pedal, so the they're jumped when the clutch pedal is depressed. But still, the ECU isn't reading anything from the transmission when cruise is on, so it should work fine

hm... never thought about that... so the engine starts w/o the ecu thinking its in park or neutral?

[jmath99V6]

Pin 9 and pin 10 on the park/neutral switch are only connected when you press down the clutch pedal. that way you can't start the engine without the clutch pressed down

[hsinya]

u didnt wire anything to drive on the harness? so the cruise works w/o any pins being connected?

[jmath99V6]

right. when clutch isn't pressed, like when I'm on the freeway, nothing is connected and the cruise works fine

[hsinya]

awesome. thanks for the info! gonna have to do this when i have time

[beam514]

shoot, might have to do this when I get home. I don't like the wiring I did for pins 9 and 10 anyway.

[galant1983]

i have a 02 gtz and im trying to see if i need any parts off the a/t for the 5spd swap???

[beam514]

When I get home, I'm going to try the cruise control mod.

[Isaurio]

i have a 02 gtz and im trying to see if i need any parts off the a/t for the 5spd swap???

nahh bro. I belive everything from the a/t comes off.

[Isaurio]

shoot, might have to do this when I get home. I don't like the wiring I did for pins 9 and 10 anyway.

dont fuck it up. LOL

[beam514]

dont fuck it up. LOL

lol it will be really easy. I just need to extend the wires to the clutch pedal switch and voila

[galant1983]

nahh bro. I belive everything from the a/t comes off.

thanks!

[beam514]

has anyone ever noticed that we have an extra connector, right near where the clutch pedal bolts? It happens to fit this clutch depression switch, but stock, it's not connected to anything. It has a black w/ yellow wire and a black w/ white dots every 1" wire coming out of it. I wonder what it is attached to? Being that this car is A/T, but even has the place to mount a clutch master cylinder, I wonder if it is a "universal" wiring harness..

I don't have time to take apart my dash and go digging for these wires though.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc141/beam514/Galant%20Photos%202/IMG_7627.jpg
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc141/beam514/Galant%20Photos%202/IMG_7629.jpg
This is the switch I will be using. Shorts the circuit when it is not pushed, and opens the circuit when it is pushed in (clutch pedal is not depressed)
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc141/beam514/Galant%20Photos%202/IMG_7630.jpg

[beam514]

update:

What I am doing is using the clutch pedal to short out pins 9 and 10, instead of hard-wiring them. I just tried it out. The car is not able to start when the clutch isn't depressed, and does start when the clutch is depressed.

HOWEVER, once the engine is running and I let off the clutch again (clutch pedal is not depressed), the idle freaks out and then I get a CEL. I haven't scanned it yet but I'm assuming it's going to have to do with the missing A/T solenoids.

I believe once the ECU thinks the car is out of Park/Neutral, it's going to be looking for a signal from those solenoids. If that is the case, I'd rather not have cruise control than have a CEL constantly.

[beam514]

just checked my DTC's, and it is:


P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfunction
P0750 Shift Solenoid A malfunction
P0755 Shift Solenoid B malfunction
P0760 Shift Solenoid C malfunction
P0765 Shift Solenoid D malfunction

The idle does end up settling back down though.

[galant1983]

hey im doing my swap now and i cant seem to figure out how to bolt up the clutch pedal and i cant figure out how to remove the old flywheel and clutch! someone please help me with step by step instruction on how to do both

[beam514]

Clutch pedal:
You have to cut out the 3 holes in the firewall (2 small bolt holes, 1 large for the Master Cylinder). It is hidden behind black padding/insulation. You also have to remove the insulation that is 90 degrees to the firewall, upside down. The clutch pedal bracket has 4 bolt holes, and make sure to bolt it by all of those holes, otherwise the firewall will flex and could crack when you're pressing down on the pedal.

Old clutch and flywheel: Do you mean the A/T driveplate and torque converter?

Refer to the 4 Cyl Manual swap thread for these things. They are very similar.

[beam514]

Just FYI, if you still want cruise control but don't want to constantly have the CEL, you can hook up pins 9 and 10 to a switch, and disconnect them whenever you want to use cruise control (say for a 3 hour drive). When you get to your destination or back home, you can clear your CELs (if you have the capability). Once you clear your CELs, make sure pins 9 and 10 are reconnected so it doesn't pop up again.

This also serves as a safety switch. Can't start the car if the switch is in the cruise control mode. I just tested it out and I'm pretty sure everything works out. Cleared the CEL and it didn't come back since it thinks it's in Park/Neutral again, so that's good.

[galant1983]

Just FYI, if you still want cruise control but don't want to constantly have the CEL, you can hook up pins 9 and 10 to a switch, and disconnect them whenever you want to use cruise control (say for a 3 hour drive). When you get to your destination or back home, you can clear your CELs (if you have the capability). Once you clear your CELs, make sure pins 9 and 10 are reconnected so it doesn't pop up again.

This also serves as a safety switch. Can't start the car if the switch is in the cruise control mode. I just tested it out and I'm pretty sure everything works out. Cleared the CEL and it didn't come back since it thinks it's in Park/Neutral again, so that's good.

if i have pin 9 and 10 hooked up at all times is that bad or good?

[beam514]

Well, you're always going to throw CELs anyway, but you need pins 9 and 10 connected to start the car. Previously, I had them always connected, but this didn't allow me to use cruise control. So if you don't need cruise control, then having them always connected is a good thing lol

[darknd666]

where can i find the tutorial on wiring reverse lights i want pics plz so i can be sure, i have an 02 galant LS V6 5SPD swap

[OMEGA PHX]

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z290/OMEGAPHX/ECUconnector1.jpg

[erick14]

i want to do mine .. but im not a mechanic :(,, can someone help?

[Aviator473]

Can't you just take the white shifter box off the auto trans and twist it Until it lights up N and tuck it away??? Instead of shorting out pins 9-10??

[hsinya]

yes, but its pretty bulky. not easy to tuck. and it looks ugly as hell lol

[Aviator473]

yes, but its pretty bulky. not easy to tuck. and it looks ugly as hell lol

I agree its bulky and hard to tuck. I am at the end of my swap, and I am running into some starting problems... First, I apologize if this is in the wrong forum. I am at the end of my 5-speed swap and I go to turn the key, all I get is a "click". The battery is fully charged and being charged while I am trying all of this.

I have so far.....
-replaced the starter
-bought a starter relay (only the 5-speed uses them) It was worth a try
-crossed over pins 9 & 10

Every time...."Click"

Does anything in the "auto" shifting knob sensors need to be tripped or grounded out?

Thanks for your help

[beam514]

sorry for the late response, but nothing in the knob should need to be tripped or grounded out as far as I'm aware. Is everything plugged back in, and have you double checked that you shorted the correct pins? I can't even remember what the car does when the pins aren't shorted, but I'll go outside and check right now since I am redoing the wiring anyway.

[coconut]

Do You know if anyone doing this swap on a 2.4 4cyl?

[galant1983]

Do You know if anyone doing this swap on a 2.4 4cyl?

yup!

[coconut]

Been looking for days on here and only thing i found was v6,im assuming that they are diffrent tuts in some way.guide me to the right page if possible. Would love to do this swap.thanks.

[coconut]

yup!

any luck with that search cuz i still cant find anything.dont want to ask the same questions if they where already answered hahaha

[M-Rod]

Umm... this thread is on the same page. If you found this, I don't know how you couldn't find the other thread.

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?t=16557

[coconut]

Umm... this thread is on the same page. If you found this, I don't know how you couldn't find the other thread.

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?t=16557

my bad.thanks

[Corey2kG]

Edit

[Guzm4n]

If a 16 year old can do it, then you can too! The wiring isn't that hard, you should get a Haynes manual it helped me out.

[Corey2kG]

Thanks but I think I was running on no sleep n over thinking everything. I realized I've done EVERTHING to the front end of the car but the tranny. So disassembly will be very easy til tranny time.

[sexy 8G]

What kind of wiring needs to be done I've already done the swap and I don't know what else to do😞

[sexy 8G]

This what I've got done

[sexy 8G]

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/25/dc063459bc2f2f2b69208917ae5df819.jpg

[sexy 8G]

what does the reverse solenoid look like any way

[oakrdrs187]

You can't tell how much you've from that view.

Reverse solenoid is a sensor on the transmission with 2 large pins on it.

[sexy 8G]

ill send more pics later and one that are more up to date. and are you talking about the solenoid that is on the automatic? trans because I no longer have that anymore

[sexy 8G]

also looked what it might look like on google pics and it seems to resemble the solenoid on the starter or the speed sensor has two pin outs

[Black8GV6]

what does the reverse solenoid look like any way

IF YOU READ THIS WHOLE THREAD YOU WOULD HAVE FOUND YOUR ANSWER

https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?34842-How-To-6G72-5-Speed-Swap&p=491047&viewfull=1#post491047

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7471/16123994510_ec6385d46f_o.jpg

[sexy 8G]

what is the part number for the reverse gear sensor

[oakrdrs187]

Go to any parts store and get one. Ask for it for any eclipse of the same year. Part number is irrelevant and varies from autozone to napa to oreillys. They can look it up like they would brake pads.

[duh2150]

I want to say a lot, but I'll say 1 thing. Doing a swap in dirt is already unsafe...

[sexy 8G]

Not the way I have it set up

[sexy 8G]

I have at least 3 points of contact with the ground and all of them are under bricks so the soil doesn't cause the stands to shift. I'm am very thorough when it involves my safety.

[4g63lover]

As far as the v6 goes. If you have a 2-piece flywheel., align the clutch and fully bolt it on to the flywheel. Then unbolt the back of the flywheel from the plate that bolts to the crank. Slide the now flywheel/clutch assembly onto the trans and raise it with an engine hoist and you won't even have to unbolt the passenger side mount. Took my 5 mins to get the trans in. Once you get the trans onto the dowels and bolted to the motor, by turning the crank, line up the flywheel to the plate through the little access hole and put the bolts you took out in one by one and tighten them.

[sexy 8G]

After the install should you be able to move the clutch fork

[2002BlackDragon]

Commenting for reference material... working on the swap now