6A12TT Help Required

[ukbiker]

Hi guys, Am new to the mitsubishi scene. Recently sold my skyline gtr for a rare R1 motorbike and cash, And have now managed to pick up a rare jap import galant sport gt 2.0L twin turbo ( All in dark blue instead of that nasty white and blue!) , The vehicle has a boost tap fitted and boost gauge, Also the previous owner has drilled big holes into the air box as a cheap method of more induction i suppose. I know how much manual boost controllers via a boost tap is dispised against due to the dangers of boost spike etc. But considering i picked this car up for £400 for a twin turbo with only 45000miles on the clock i dont really fancy paying for a fancy greddy boost controller. Anyway, to get down to the point of me posting in this section is, With this boost tap fully unscrewed to its max, I am boosting at around 12psi, Ive read elsewhere that you can boost to 15psi at a max before the turbos start panting for air. Im unable to even get above 12. I know i have no boost leaks etc. Even removed the tap so it was not restricted but still only boosting to 12. Ive drawn a little diagram to show how its piped up, As im not clued up on this engine im unsure as to if its piped up correctly or not
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c88/photobiker/turbodiag.jpg
There is a 4way plastic pipe joiner (shown in pic), with one of the ports on it blocked off, The T piece tap governs the leak for the actuators to allow more boost into fooling the actuators of the signal pressure, Now My problem is, with the tap fully open, Im only getting 12psi of boost, Does it look as tho its piped up correctly from looking at this crude picture ive drawn( Note when i screw the tap in, It does reduce my boost). Or could it be restricted by those tiny metal pipes that run above the throttle body which connect to rubber pipes heading to the actuators?, If this is the case would buying some decent pipes to run directly from both actuators to the Tap and 4way pipe joiner whilst bypassing those small metal pipes above throttle body increase the boost? As im wondering if my only restriction right now is down to them?.
Thanks in advance
Craig

[Goku]

Are you sure the tap is facing the right way ?

When you put a boost tap on, it should never lower your stock boost. The stock boost is determined by the wastegates on the turbo's, so when the tap is fully open, it should be running at stock boost, and as you close it down it causes a restriction and tricks the wastegates into thinking there is less boost than there actually is running to the turbo's.

It looks as though it's plumbed into the right place, I'm assuming that top box is the pipe to the intake manifold ?

As for the small metal pipes, there are one or two you can by pass if you wish, but there is not gain in doing so really.

[ukbiker]

Hi goku, When i said i can reduce the boost when the tap is screwed in, I mean this by as i screw the tap down creating restriction it returns to stock boost, When i open it fully i recieve 12 psi of boost, I thought the method was, tap fully open gives you more boost as its creating a leak there fore if your wastegate has a freshhold of say 7psi, and the intake manifold is now pressurised at 7psi, But the tap is inducing a leak of say 1.5psi then the wastegate actuators are only seeing 5.5psi down the signal line from the manifold because of the tap, therefore allowing the turbos to spool up more than 7psi.
I thought that possibly those small metal pipes are causing a natural restriction of around 12psi because of there size, Also i could be restricted by the actual hole in the tap. hmmmm


Forgot to mention, These actuators arent piped up to any standard solenoids etc to give me a boost cut etc

[Johnathansgalant]

I saw u on the other forum but i wrote this there too.
try removing the boost controller for now and see how much stock psi is that way u will know if u r increasing or maybe decreasing boost because u have it on backwards or a pipe is the wrong way... usually u screw clockwise to increase boost and counter to decrease... In otherwards u put a screw further in to blow flow and divert it to a hole that will create a leak and the further clockwise the the more its blocked creating boost... reverse is for counter.. When u fully are counterclockwise u remove restriction and should have the lowest boost setting or stock wastegate setting.. there are some controllers that vary but this is the jist...

[hk20000]

don't bother I'll tell you right now the actuator spring boost is 0.4BAR i.e. 6psi.

my car was like that too at a point mine didn't even have those mickey mouse manual boost controller the factory boost solenoid simply decided to crap out.

so I went Greddy. Installed it over an afternoon and I'm doing 16psi easily.

Also check ECU for any knock recordings, according to the Japanese repair manual, the ECU will stop boosting if it sees knock (Brit gas is not 100RON I don't think?). That's your solenoid right there going wide open, and that won't help at all.
Clear the code (knocking will not trigger CEL on dash, btw) and try that. Next up, remove that damned tap. Third, on the rubber hose between the solenoid and the throttle body (the 4 way you were talking about, right?) has a restrictor on it from factory, simply pulling that away and a healthy factory solenoid should push your max boost from 0.7BAR to 0.9BAR (12.xpsi).

Basically what I'm saying is return the setup to factory to check factory equipment for faults first before adding that hack job there to make diagnostics difficult. You are dealing with a rat's nest of vac pipes on a DOHC V6 you know.

If factory solenoid failed then the only real fix for you is a EBC.

[Goku]

Actually the stock boost is between 6 and 8 PSI, it just depends on how old the car is and how well it is running. Mine from stock is 7.5PSI and I have seen others that are as low as 5, but everything was running fine.

Also, if you have a manual one with the blue tabs, you can boost up to 22PSI though they're not happy at that point. the Auto turbo's can only take up to 15.5 PSI, thats the max they can flow before they run out of huff.

[hk20000]

factory boost should get up to 0.7BAR and then taper to 0.4 near the redline....

unless I had witchcraft on my car before. Also the manual turbos are out of huff at 16psi as well according to Greddy's spec sheet for TD025L.

[Goku]

I have seen the blue tabs do 22 quite easily, they are happy enough at 16 though, you could run them at 16 and be fine :)

[ukbiker]

ok glad to find people knowing what there talking about :), Hard to find decent info on these engines!. Ill take a picture of all the items ive been talking about and post up, including how its all plumbed in, as my picture is quite rubbish!

[ukbiker]

Here ya go, This is how i recieved the car, Could someone explain to me if its piped up correct, that 4way block is what connects both actuators, 3rd port is to tap and inlet
4th port is blocked off
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c88/photobiker/S73R0111.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c88/photobiker/S73R0112.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c88/photobiker/S73R0115.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c88/photobiker/S73R0116.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c88/photobiker/S73R0117.jpg

[Johnathansgalant]

what happens when u screw that controller in all the way?? You should buy a better manual controller by the way. That one doesnt look like the best to be using u need quality boost control..

[Goku]

^^ what he said

Another option to see if it does go above 12PSI is to free boost the car, if it doesn't go above 12PSI at that stage, either something is broken or the turbo's are stuffed.

[hk20000]

LOL you do know your boost solenoid is UNPLUGGED right? That thing next to the ECU boost sensor...

how is the car going to run properly like that I don't know LMAO.

Consider yourself very lucky:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2025/2390604465_fd1d6c9e53_b.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2047/2390595903_9461b338ca_b.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2033/2391427458_58e91fa21b_b.jpg
The T is for the boost gauge.

From what I see you need to revamp EVERYTHING in there to get it going.

[ukbiker]

Hi hk20000, Ive attempted to pipe up in a similar manor to your's, Im guessing your boost solenoid is from an electronic boost controller as its different to what i have, Im asuming from that solenoid, the black pipe leads to a T piece which at both ends leads to a turbo actuator, and the blue pipe coming from ur solenoid is your inlet pressure feed. Ive piped mine up pretty much the same, Between the inlet pressure feed and solenoid i have the tap fitted, and the other port on the solenoid i have my 4way block with one port blocked off in turn creating a T piece similar to your own which recieves both pipes from the actuators and then to the solenoid. Now after driving vehicle with it being piped up like this, I still recieve 12psi with tap open (even if i remove the valve from the tap it still only boosts at 12psi), With the tap fully screwed in i recieve stock boost which is 8psi. HMmmmm, Im stuck! Is that 4way block factory fitted part? if ill replace that for something much larger and better
Also How do i go about checking for/removing knock readings from ecu.


(just so theres no confusion about this tap, screwing in creates restriction and eventually seals off, Unscrewing removes restriction and allows it to leak through bottom of tap via a hole, The part that screws in has a tapered end on the bottom of it within the tap that sits within this hole when fully closed sealing the hole and also sealing both ports on tap from breathing)

[hk20000]

there are no 4way blocks from factory.

no matter how you think of it the actuator shouldnt be connected to manifold pressure directly...that is the bottom line.

[ukbiker]

Ok, I have it piped up exactly how the japanese diagram shows under the bottom of the bonnet (only noticed it today), Its boosting at 13psi max now, possible its either ecu needs faults removed or shagged solenoid then

[seth98esT]

Im no 6a12tt expert, but you dont need the stock boost solenoid if you have a manual boost controller. The boost solenoid controls the boost above what the wastegates are set to.

The ECU shouldnt have anything to do with the amound of boost if you have a MBC. If you absolutely cant get above 13psi, Id say you have a big boost or vacuum leak.

[ukbiker]

While this post has gotten allot of attention, May i pick your brains on this too, On deceleration from around 40/50mph to 0 i get a odd noise, Like a rubbing noise that slows down with the speed on the car, Dipping the clutch doesnt affect the noise, Nor does it make any difference as to what gear im in, Even coasted in neutral But still does it. I tried replacing gearbox/Diff oil's but still no change. Any ideas? I also get a odd knock from the Right front area of car, But ive checked my joints with a bar and they seem fine.

[Goku]

Im no 6a12tt expert, but you dont need the stock boost solenoid if you have a manual boost controller. The boost solenoid controls the boost above what the wastegates are set to.

The ECU shouldnt have anything to do with the amound of boost if you have a MBC. If you absolutely cant get above 13psi, Id say you have a big boost or vacuum leak.

Most people do bypass the stock solenoid and usually end up with big problems of boost spiking and the car not running properly. It's just something the 6A12TT's seem to do, not all of them mind you, but most of them.

As for the leak, that might also be true, but surely he'd hear it leaking if it were that bad ?

[ukbiker]

Regards to hearing a leak, When the engine idles if i lean over the inlet manifold you can hear a kind of shhhhhhhhhh noise but ive just assumed that, that noise is the sound of the air rushing into the manifold. It doesnt sound like an external leak. Do all 6a12 engines make this noise, If not then i probably do have a leak somewhere by the rear turbo.
On another note, On deceleration i get a wierd whineing noise from the front sounding like transmission/diff. But it only seems to be prominent from below 25mph(not 40/50mph as i previously said). The noise sounds like a wa wa wa wa wa wa wa noise. This whine slows down with vehicle speed not engine revs etc. as stated before, Dipping clutch or coasting makes no difference. I do hope its is normal and not a diff/gearbox on its last legs?. Not sure if this could be contributing to the problem but my offside rear shock top bush has had it, so i get a knock even on the slightest bump

[mko]

could be the shock bushing, very posible tho. Also, you might wanna check the front sway bar bushings, the best way is to disconnect one of the end links and try to move the bar up and down. You also wanna check the lateral cotrol arm ball joints, there was a recall here in US on these bolts The popping noise, I ve had it twice - 1. it was the sway bar bushing and 2. Lower control arm balljoint. About the "wa wa wa" noise see if your wheels are balanced

[Goku]

Hmmmm...... might be the clutch/gearbox, when was the last time you changed the g/box oil ?
and what oil did you use ?

It may pay to drop the g/box and check the clutch etc for anything out of place

[ukbiker]

Hmmmmm i dont think its the clutch tho as regardless if i press/depress the clutch pedal, It doesnt change the noise im hearing, I changed all the oils about 3 days ago, It has been doing this noise ever since i got the car a few weeks ago tho. The oils i used were the oils we use in the gearboxs and diffs on trucks where i work( Dynadrive/syntrans). I wouldnt thing the noise id be getting would be audable at 20mph with unbalanced wheels but its worth a try i suppose, Ill also check all the bushing/arms again as soon as possible. Ill keep you updated

[Goku]

What viscosity is the oil you used ?

Truck g/box oils are generally thicker than whats required/recommended for cars, esp our ones.

[ukbiker]

Ok regarding the noisy transmission noise i spoke of, I said it made no difference if the clutch was dipped or not, I was wrong, with the clutch pressed, The noise stops. So i suppose thats one problem diagnosed :). Just now the limited to 12psi of boost problem

[hk20000]

ok then your pilot bearing is gone.

there is no cure other than replacing it, but there is also rarely any failure caused by that other than some noise.

[ukbiker]

Ah thats good to know. Well im completly baffled as to getting more than 12psi, Its not because its only a 2L twin turbo is it?, Tried all sorts of piping methods etc, also check operation of actuators etc all seem ok, Just will not go above 12psi, Surly im doing something wrong somewhere hmmmm.

[Goku]

No, it should boost higher than that.

I'm only running stock turbo's on mine than they are at 14.5, have you tried free boosting it yet ?

[ukbiker]

how do i free boost?, Also Just an update, I bought a T piece joiner for the pipes and chucked that 4way block away as it broke anyway, Ive removed the Tap as a test, I now have the actuators piped into the T piece, then a pipe coming from the T piece to the standard solenoid (bottom port) the top port has the pipe coming from the intake just after the maf sensor, The pipe from inlet area i have blocked off now. With this setup im boosting still at 12psi meaning :-/ im completly headfooked. The boost solenoid detects the boost within the inlet chamber right? As i have a boost guage piped into this. The solenoid next to it im assuming is what controls the actuators now.

[ukbiker]

Can someone draw me a crude drawing like mine For the 6a12tt engine, As to how it should be piped up, Including all the vac lines and where they are connected and where exactly i should plumb in my boost gauge? Also where i would need to fit the tap. Then that way i can check if its correct.
Please :)

[Goku]

how do i free boost?, Also Just an update, I bought a T piece joiner for the pipes and chucked that 4way block away as it broke anyway, Ive removed the Tap as a test, I now have the actuators piped into the T piece, then a pipe coming from the T piece to the standard solenoid (bottom port) the top port has the pipe coming from the intake just after the maf sensor, The pipe from inlet area i have blocked off now. With this setup im boosting still at 12psi meaning :-/ im completly headfooked. The boost solenoid detects the boost within the inlet chamber right? As i have a boost guage piped into this. The solenoid next to it im assuming is what controls the actuators now.


By doing what you just did you are free boosting, I think your turbo's are shagged, or you have a boost leak as previously stated.

[Goku]

Can someone draw me a crude drawing like mine For the 6a12tt engine, As to how it should be piped up, Including all the vac lines and where they are connected and where exactly i should plumb in my boost gauge? Also where i would need to fit the tap. Then that way i can check if its correct.
Please :)

I think I have a pic of mine when it was stock, I'll have a look.

[ukbiker]

I have a jap version of how its suppost to be piped up as stock, And i followed it. But all that did was boost at stock boost, and with a tap fitted, It would boost To a max of 12.5psi. Now i have it piped up disregarding this 4way connection which it has in the stock setup, So that instead of a 4 way i have a 3way(t-piece) which has both actuators piped to it and then a pipe running from that t-piece to the standard solenoid.(Note, I did also try connecting it up as stock with the 4way connection exactly how the diagram said and fitted the tap where it would cause it to boost more and still it only boosted to 12). Basically, No matter what i do i cant reach above 12.5psi, I know i dont have boost leak as ud see it on the boost guage i suppose. When i hit boost it does boost quite quick and the needle litterally shoots to 12.5 without hesitation and then stops as if it hit a needle stop. Im using 2 boost guages also, incase one was faulty but both do the same,

[Goku]

Hmmm..... maybe one of the boost gauges is leaking slightly

[ukbiker]

Nope lol, checked that, perfectly sealed. Is there anywhere else that could be restricting me to 12psi. surly the ecu has no control over the turbos boost as its run by exhaust gases, and only way it could stop that would be to restrict air/fuel. Yet it does neither. And the standard solenoid i have it piped into controls the vaccume for the actuators. Could the boost pressure solenoid be affecting it? This is what the boost guage is piped into. (note. this boost solenoid is piped up as it says to pipe it up in the stock jap vacume diagram).
I noticed that standing in front of the car, on the left side of the engine at the front, below the battery there is a small diaphram and then a larger one near it with a large pipe connecting to the intake pipe and another smaller one coming from the diaphram and piping into the bottom of the throttle body area, Whats this for? could this restrict to 12psi if it was fubar?

[ukbiker]

This may be of help, went to see how fast she'd go and speed cut out at about 115mph, Isnt this a speed limiter/fuel cut thing? could be my problem!?

[Goku]

No, the limiter is to protect to motor at high revs, you're problem is much earlier in the rev range.
What size intercooler do you have ?

[seth98esT]

Take your manual boost controller apart. Does it have the ball bearing on the otherside of the bolt? I bought a NEW MBC once and the ball bearing was missing! I was pissed.

[hk20000]

Or like I'd say EBC is the ONLY way to go.

This is 2009. Don't be an idiot. Used EBCs are cheap and you can try out different setups from within the cockpit.

It's only when a EBC fails, then you know you have a real problem. Otherwise it's mostly vac and leak this and that you can troubleshoot it into next year with no real solutions.

[Goku]

Eh, MBC's are fine for minimal increases

I just use a GFB Atomic MBC

[ukbiker]

Im free boosting now, no signal from inlet what-so-ever, also have it plummed into the original solenoid. without the inlet being piped in, shes boosting at 12psi without having that tap thing piped in. I think im going to give up trying for more

[ukbiker]

didnt someone say that if the ecu detected a knock before it limits the boost until its reset?

[Goku]

Try re setting the ECU if you want, just disconnect the battery for about 20min.

When you reconnect it you have to re set the idle, you do this by revving out to about 3k rpm and slowly reduce the rpm in about 300rpm increments, you need to do that about 3-4 times, otherwise it will stall on you when you stop.

[ukbiker]

I tried what you said, Made no difference. Im just going to leave it as it is, its fast enough at 12psi i suppose. Heres a little brain tickler, My battery light stays on when i start the car, If i have the lights on/Blower on and stereo on the light goes out. After a while of driving, I can have all this off and the light doesnt come on. Now ive replaced battery as needed a new one anyway, Ive checked the vehicle is charging via a multimeter and all that is ok. But the light still comes on. This problem has only seemed to start occuring after i hit a pot hole hard!. Any clues on were to start. I do hope its not a semi dead alternator

[hk20000]

battery light staying on = the alternator is failing..... intermittent fail = failing. Just start looking for one already.

[ukbiker]

I dont think anything is wrong with the alternator tho, Am i right in thinking that the regulator is not part of the alternator on these engines? (Im a heavy good vehicle technician and am used to working with alternators with all the goods built within), Isnt the regulator next to the battery, looks like a heat sink with a plug connected to it, Ive Checked charge rate, Charges fine on idle with no battery light on, If rev'd it will rise to almost 17v's indicating regulator fault and thus brings the battery light on. Note when engine is fully warmed up the vehicle charges fine through out the rev range without the battery light coming on. Also, ive removed all connections on battery/alternator/regulator etc and cleaned connections. Trust me i dont have a problem buying a new alternator, its just with performance cars in the past, experience has shown its always good to pinpoint the problem before chucking parts at it

[ukbiker]

ok, my mistake, I just been to mitsubishi and found out that the regulator is built within the alternator, But is replaceable, Sweet.

[Tippmann]

What Oil is best for these engines?

[Goku]

Amsoil 0w30 is what most people in club VR-4 run and also what I run in mine

[Tippmann]

What about the Filter, is that the same as a Normal 2.0 V6 or even an FTO?

[Goku]

Yep, same as an FTO, Z411 is the ryco code, just cross reference that to get a better one, I also use an Amsoil filter.

[Tippmann]

o right, cheers guys!

Can't really find any Performance parts for these either, i mean basic stuff like Bolt on Mod's

What intakes do peopl use with this engine?

[Goku]

The stock one, or a custom one :)

You're going to learn quickly, seeing as these engines were never released in the states or big in australia, there isn't much of anything in the way of specific bolt on mods, you have to look at whats going to work and try it.

[Tippmann]

ah right, fair enough


as for Intakes, i mean big fuck Cone filters etc etc lol

[Goku]

Worthless, unless you're going to make a custom cold air box.

[Tippmann]

i know what you mean but with a good cone filter you get chatter lol

what about BOV's any recommendations?

[Goku]

Hks ssq

[Tippmann]

Had a feeling you'd say that!


Quite a expenive tho

[Goku]

Yes, but it's worth it :D

[Tippmann]

bit of an update really, Alenator packed up today, Came home on the back of a AA truck lol

Question time.... Are the Alenators on NA 2.0 V6 Galants the the same as the ones on this engine, or even FTO ones?

[Goku]

Yes, the NA 2.0 V6 is the same, the FTO one isn't

[Tippmann]

nice one, just got to find one now lol

[Tippmann]

Does anyone know the Part number too?

[Tippmann]

have Possibley found one, would this one fit?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170278357694&_trkparms=tab%3DWatching

[zowow]

an update to this. it's my car lol

rang up mitsu an they said its an E74a - matches my chassis no, and theres a choice of two alternators
MD188242 & MD361625...?

any ideas which is the right one? all the ones on ebay do not match part number wise

broken galant :(

[Goku]

an update to this. it's my car lol

rang up mitsu an they said its an E74a - matches my chassis no, and theres a choice of two alternators
MD188242 & MD361625...?

any ideas which is the right one? all the ones on ebay do not match part number wise

broken galant :(
Both of them should be MD188242

[Tippmann]

Nice one dude, just trying to find one now!

[zowow]

ahah, looks like camberley auto factors can order one in which is a welcome suprise..

bearing in mind its quite a rare car, it was quite good to see that mitsubishi (colt cars swindon) were extremely helpful with getting part no's etc by going onto japanese systems.

I used to work for honda so i know how awkward it is to get hold of the correct info for imported cars...

just in case you are confused, i bought the car from 'ukbiker' last week and 'tippman' is one of my mates :)

Just need to get this alternator done and then i can have another investigate of these problems. All in all its pretty tidy really, just needs a bit of a play to get it all working as it should!

[Goku]

Yea, it's not that hard for me to find the part no's, I have Mitsubishi's Parts system on my pc :D

If I had the chassis numbers, I could tell you exactly what your car had when it rolled out of the factory.

[Tippmann]

Well, went to Mitsu today, Zowowowowow bit the bullet & finally ordered one after i blagged trade discount, just gave them the Chassis number & they ordered the one on there system for this car, Should be a 2pin 90amp Jobbie, we'll see tommrow as they said it should be in tommrow

[Tippmann]

Is there an any off the shelve aftermarket exhaust's for these?

[Goku]

Not to my knowledge

[Tippmann]

its just the fact that the exhaust on there now is shot to bits, It'll be a fucker for a standard replacement, might aswel spend it on a decent aftermarket jobbie


Looks like the best bet is gonna have to be a Custom jobbie

[Goku]

Yep

I'd go HKS Hi Power Silent with a full 3" stainless from the down pipes

[Tippmann]

mmm...would sound awesome too i bet

still havent sholved the 12psi of boost problem tho

[Tippmann]

think its having a service too today, is the Airbox a standard iteam, i mean is the airbox on this car the same as other 2.0 V6's, As im sure a new panel filter is best for now

[Goku]

yep, pretty much

[Tippmann]

Are the brakes the same too?

[Goku]

No, the VR-4 brakes are the same as the evo 3 on the front, the rears are something different.

[Tippmann]

I mean the Sports GT & the VR4, i take it there the same really as there basicly the same car

[Goku]

Yes, the sports GT just has a different body and thats it, everything else is the same

[Tippmann]

sweet

Car needs a service, What Spark Plugs are suited to these engines, will 2.0 NA ones work ok....really dont want to spend bega bucks on this

Oil Filter is the Same as a 2.0 NA Galant/FTO too right?

Gonna change the oil too using Castrol Edge 0w30w stuff too

[Goku]

You have to use iridiums in the rear bank BKR6EIX

you can use normal ones in the front bank BKR6E but I'd just go iridiums all round

[Tippmann]

so use Iridiums BKR6EIX all around?

[Goku]

yes

[Tippmann]

can someone please tell me the mm of the standard disks please? (sports gt)

[fuel]

276x24mm - same as E39A Galant VR-4 (the ones with twin pots at least, anyway), and Lancer Evo1-3.

[Goku]

That's only the front ones though

[Tippmann]

cheers guys

[Tippmann]

http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?show=49726

those the puppies?

[Goku]

Yes, they should be the right ones.

[Tippmann]

bloody hope so, as another place wanted £180 odd for a set (80 pound a Disk!)

[Goku]

thats a bit on the expensive side

[Tippmann]

owell, ordered now, should be here tommrow, fitted tommrow aswel with any luck & MOT saturday :)

[fuel]

rears are 284mm by 18mm from memory

[Tippmann]

right, next question is...rear brakes, the pads, what are they the same as lol

if the front brakes are evo brakes, what about the rears, are they just normal standard galant items?

[fuel]

they are DB1238 pads, fronts will be DB1223. Unsure if the DB numbering scheme is used outside of NZ. I think some model Diamantes use DB1238 as well as 8G Galant/Legnum VR-4.

Normal N/A Galants use DB1239 pads for use on 266mm rotors, while the DB1238s are suited for the larger 284mm rotors.

[Tippmann]

mate, i live in the uk & getting hold of parts for this car is not excatly easy!

hence had to order evo 3 front brakes which are now fitted, only want a rear set of pads, not many have a 1994 galant vr4 on there data base, so if we can get away by getting a set of pads that are for a 2.0 na galant which are the same, were laughing

[fuel]

The rear pads on a 2.0 N/A Galant are NOT the same - as I said above there's a big difference in disc rotor size on the rear - 266x10mm (solid) or 266x18mm (vented) for non-turbo, and 284x18mm vented for VR-4 turbo. The calipers are different and therefore the pads are different too.

The pads you need (DB1238) are the same used on the 8th gen VR-4, as well as the GTO (3000GT) which doesn't have twin pots on the rear, Lancer Evo4, Lancer Evo5+ RS models which don't have Brembo brakes, as well as some Diamantes and Magnas but I don't think you'ld see many of them in the UK.

[hk20000]

while you guys are here I have very much difficulty passing my 6A12TT powered VR4 for emission testing over here in Canada.

The test is a simulated driving test and it's an ass to pass. The things I have done:

1) new catalytic converter (marginally better, so my old catalytic converter should be salvageable)
2) new plugs
3) new fuel pump
4) new fuel filters
5) new air filter

and it epically failed. the HC is so freaking high that it was over 10 times allowable. So I did these:

1) disable 1 cylinder (unplugged the injector harness so it's running on 5 cylinders, with the 6th act as a big air pump heating up the cat)
2) mix methyl hydrate with 1/4 tank of gas (20L + 1L of methyl hydrate)

and the result is still a marginal fail. But it is VERY close.

I'm thinking of unhooking my turbo pipings altogether so they basically test a 8:1 compression normally aspirated V5 and see if I can go from there.

NOx is irrelevant in my case, the man at the station says, because my car is a parallel import. So with that I'm thinking of even disabling TWO cylinders to get it run squeekly clean.

What else do you have in mind?

[Goku]

Errrr.... if you disable 2 cylinders the car won't idle....

We don't have this problems here, we have no emission laws.

[Goku]

mate, i live in the uk & getting hold of parts for this car is not excatly easy!

hence had to order evo 3 front brakes which are now fitted, only want a rear set of pads, not many have a 1994 galant vr4 on there data base, so if we can get away by getting a set of pads that are for a 2.0 na galant which are the same, were laughing

You can get parts for them relatively easy, go look at club VR-4 and ask the guys on there, heaps of them are from the UK so they should be able to help you with parts for the vr-4's.

[fuel]

lol @ disabling cylinders to pass emissions. Have you looked at the O2 sensor(s)? they could be faulty causing the ECU to dump in more fuel. You're definitely using the correct plugs? It could be an injector or two not spraying the fuel in a fine uniform pattern, but instead dribbling the fuel in - this will effect the combustion on that particular cylinder and unburnt fuel could be expelled into the exhaust.

[hk20000]

no it's fine I have a narrowband to keep an eye on the O2 I just changed the O2 and it's working perfectly.

The issue with this engine is that there are no EGR or airpump system for the emissions so anything that's burnt or unburnt it's shot into the exhaust.

And the fact that a 1993 car gets a simulated driving test so it has to be perfect in acceleration, holding speed AND deceleration..... The test drives the car up to 100km/h just like the Cali test..... It's a bitch to pass.

[fuel]

I guess that's why those models weren't offered domestically there.