4g63t / AWD 7g Build

[eclipsh]

Hey all,

I have an interesting challenge ahead of me. I am building a 7g Galant VR-4 using my recently acquired 95 Talon AWD as a donor. However I hung onto all my nifty DS-MAP (aka Jackal) speed density goodies from my old 1g DSM and want to run them in my new build. Problem is they only work with a 1g ECU. So I'm looking at putting a 1g ecu, and if necessary a 1g harness, into the Galant which will by economic necessity be running a 2g DSM motor.

Soooo... I'm trying to figure out how to make this work. I know the 1g harness fairly well but I am not familiar with the 2g wiring harness. I do know that the turbo motor swap into the Galant has been done by members on this site so the wiring for that leap has been covered (likely very little as they share so much else).

What I don't know is if with some creative rewiring it becomes possible to run a 1g ECU on the 2g (or Galant) wiring harness without major errors. If not, I'll need to track down any wiring issues with running the 1g harness in the 2g such that all the gauges work properly. A lot of this may just come down to hours of tracing wiring diagrams but if anyone has input I'd really appreciate it.

[kolio]

DOHCstunr was running the 1G ecu. now he is running speed density.

thats the man to talk to

[eclipsh]

Cool, thanks :)

[eclipsh]

OK, so I went and picked up my 94 Galant ES today along with a 1g EPROM ECU (found it in the first awd car I checked!). After a PM back from DOHCStunr I should be able to just wire in the 1g ECU plugs, run wires for a few extra bits and be good to go. I'll take some pictures and post them up before I start tearing the car down.

[kolio]

sweet, keep us posted!

[eclipsh]

Here are some pictures of the Galant as it was yesterday morning. The paint is peeling a bit on the hood and the rear of the roof but is otherwise in good shape. I'll need a new windshield as well as it has numerous cracks. The driver's rear window had already been picked at the yard so I found another one and slipped it into place but haven't finished the installation. I couldn't find a tinted one so I'll get the clear one I picked matched to the rest later on.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/5/2/4/4/3/drivers_side_rear.jpg

The interior is better than I remembered it being. Dirty as hell but nothing is torn up besides the passenger's sun visor and the right airbag cover is peeling a way slightly.

The body is actually very clean save one small dent at the base of the driver's front fender and door that I may be able to straighten. Unfortunately the front bumper cover is falling apart along the bottom so it will have to be replaced. I'm hoping to find a JDM VR-4 cover.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/5/2/4/4/3/passenger_side.jpg

The engine bay actually looked very good. I didn't see any oil leaks at all. With a fresh battery and some gas it fired right up in the junk yard. Unfortunately the transmission is shot, reverse doesn't work at all. Unless someone needs a core for a rebuild I'll be taking it to the scrap yard.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/5/2/4/4/3/engine_bay_stock.jpg

After a few hours of work I got the engine ready to pull out and quickly found that it couldn't come out the topside with the tranny attached. I pulled the front cross brace, dropped the engine/tranny to the floor and separated them, then pulled the engine out the top and set it on blocks.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/5/2/4/4/3/lifting_engine_out_356450.jpg

http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/5/2/4/4/3/engine_on_stand_233837.jpg

http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/5/2/4/4/3/empty_engine_bay.jpg

[eclipsh]

Looks like I'll be doing some repair on the ECU I found. I'll see how bad the damage is. If it is just surface corrosion I'll clean it up, stick some new capacitors in and socket the EPROM myself. If it looks too bad I'll just ship it off to Steve on DSM Tuners.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/5/2/4/4/3/leaking_capacitor.jpg

http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/5/2/4/4/3/leaking_capacitor_2.jpg

I'm almost done pulling the engine wiring harness out to rewire it too. I decided it'll be much cleaner and easier if I can just lay it out on the floor, pull the A/T components I don't need and wire in the new parts I do need. I still need to find some good factory wiring diagrams for the 7GA.

[eclipsh]

So I spent today working on a diagram for the 7ga to 1g ECU setup. Read not much fun at all but a lot less dirty. I'm still trying to figure out several points, i.e. the bold areas

7g PIN Function 1g PIN
1 #1 INJECTOR 51
2 #3 INJECTOR 60
3 FAN MOTOR RELAY N/A
4 IAC (CLOSED)
5 IAC (VALVE #1)
6 EGR SLND 53
7 TCU N/A
8 FUEL PUMP RELAY 56
9 PURGE CONTROL SLND 62
10 IGNITION POWER TRANSISTOR - part of the distributor, replaced with 1g components, cap off.
11 A/C INTERMEDIATE SWITCH
12 POWER – KOEO (key on engine on) - 102
13 GROUND - joins with 26, grounds MPI relay above.
14 #2 INJECTOR 52
15 #4 INJECTOR 61
16 FAN LOW
17 IAC (OPEN)
18 IAC (VALVE #2)
19 MAS RESET (91+) 6
22 A/C CLUTCH 65
23 IGNITION POWER TRANSISTOR - Cap off
24 ELECTRIC LOAD SWITCH (LIGHTING ON/OFF), - cap off
25 POWER – KOEO - 107
26 GROUND - joins pin 13
34 IGNITION TIMING ADJ. 12
HEATED O2 FRONT - cap
36 CEL WARNING LAMP 64
37 POWER STEERING SWITCH 5
45 A/C SWITCH - cap
51 IGNITION SWITCH START 108
52 INTAKE AIR TEMP 8
53 EGR TEMP SENSOR 15
55 HEATED O2 REAR
56 HEATED O2 FRONT
60 BATTERY BACKUP 103
61 SENSOR +5V to TPS? 23
63 ENGINE COOLANT TEMP 20
64 TPS 19
65 BAROMETER 16
66 VEHICLE SPEED 18
67 CLOSED THROTTLE/IDLE 14
68 CAMSHAFT POSITION - goes to distributor
69 CRANKSHAFT POSITION - distributor
70 VOLUME AIRFLOW 10
71 PARK/NEUTRAL (A/T)
72 COOLANT TEMP SWITCH (KOEO)

Now I know a few of these won't have connections such as the O2 sensor heaters and the fan switches (which I will wire to a temp sensor instead). The IAC connections are one problem. I'll also need to figure out the MPI circuit and ignition power transistor wires.

The 1G pins I don't have connections to yet are:

102 & 107 12V from MPI relay pins 4&5 - pin 12 or 25
105 wastegate solenoid output - ignore
109 Tach input, wire this from power transistor
110 Ignition switch (IG1) input, pin 8?
54 ignition trigger 1&4 - wiring to power transistor
55 ignition trigger 2&3 - wiring to power transistor
56 MPI relay pin 7 - taken care of if I use 5 pin relay for fuel pump
57 fuel pressure solenoid - I will ignore this one
58 ISC coil A1
59 ISC coil A2
63 & 66 MPI relay pin 8, ground for 4 wire relay
67 ISC coil B1
68 ISC coil B2
3 boost gauge - will need wires run or ignore it
4 Oxygen sensor input (will wire in my WBO2 so no worries there)
7 A/C coolant temp switch
9 knock sensor (will have to run wires)
11 ABS control unit output don't know if I need this as the 7g ABS doesn't seem to utilize it.
13 fuel pump voltage monitor input jumper from fuel pump relay? Is it necessary?
17, 24 sensors ground - which sensors? Does it matter?
21 crank angle sensor part of CAS wiring?
22 TDC sensor

[eclipsh]

Looking into the MPI relay issue I'm not sure if I need to track one down in a DSM or if I can run without one. I'd be a little concerned about the extra power running through the ECU so I'll look into exactly what wiring will need to happen. I really need some good factory wiring diagrams for the entire 7g. It'd be good to see what wires I'd be tapping into for the relay or if there is already an MPI in the 7g that I just don't know about.

[bmore303]

Well one option for the IAC is to just block it off with a plate and wipe the CEL for it if there is one. Wish I could be of more help.

[eclipsh]

Thanks for all the help so far :) I have read enough about the IAC that I think it prudent to leave it there. Apparently it does more than just adjust the idle.

It is just four wires (trying to convince myself to trace them and figure out which does what on the 1g.)


EDIT: OK, so pin 56 on the 1g ecu ground the portion of the MPI for the fuel pump. So with a standard DSM fuel pump rewire and relay I can bypass the MPI for that.

The MPI has 10 pins so...

1 = empty
2 = power to fuel pump
3 = ignition power for fuel pump
4 & 5 send power to pin 107 via the main fusible link when the relay is triggered. Pin 4 also sends power further down the line to various sensors, actuators etc.
6 = grounds 9, also looks to be second ground for fuel pump relay (likely to keep the pump running while the car is being cranked).
7 = fuel pump relay ground, pin 56 ECU
8 = grounds 10, the relay for 4 & 5 when 63 and/or 66 authorize it. Has a diode limiting flow from returning to 10 from 8.
9 = feed from starter relay, also routes to pin 108 of ecu
10 = Main Fusible Link 1 (ie, the battery)

So basically it is one 5 pin relay with two triggers and one 4 pin relay with a diode.

[DOHCstunr]

I gave up on the IAC after a couple fried 1g ECU's.

I just got a blockoff plate and eliminated the FIAV and IAC.
No CEL's of course. and it idles perfect w/ ds-map.
takes just a little getting used to but its really no biggie.

[eclipsh]

Made some updates to the wiring lists. I'm also wondering where exactly in the wiring I'll want to put the resistor pack for the injectors (can't think of the right name for it, too tired).

What else am I missing?

[DOHCstunr]

http://massj1.homestead.com/files/injector_wiring.jpg
thats the general idea.

remember the ecu opens injectors by grounding the circuit.
the multi color wires on the injector connectors are the ground, thewire thats the same color onevery injector is your 12v source.

cut the 13v wire,run one wire from each injector to merge into one wire that will be wired into the resistor pack, then run the 4 low impedance wires bsck to the injectors.
then conceal the wiring within the harness.

[eclipsh]

OK, looking at another set of wiring diagrams for the Galant it looks like it does have an MPI relay which does the same things as the one in the 1g DSM. So i just have to run the correct wires and I'm good to go.

I've begun pulling the pins out of the 1g ECU harness connectors but I left the ones for the power transistor in place. I'll throw together a complete diagram when I'm done with all this and post it up on here.

[mko]

ISC AND THROTTLE BODY

Take the 1g/2g ISC the pins are as follows staring at the ISC itself.

Above pin 2 is the little clip where the connector locks in.

1 2 3

4 5 6

With that said, remove the connector from the 4g64 IAC, and remove the throttle body from the car. Install the 1g or 2g Throttle body and connect the wires from the 4g64 IAC connector to the 1g/2g ISC like this:

On the 1g ISC connect both pins 2 and 5 to the single red or white wire from the resistor pack. This is power to the ISC.

Pin 1 of the ISC goes to the Blue/Yellow stripe wire on the 4g64 IAC connector

Pin 3 of the ISC goes to Green/Black

Pin 4 of the ISC goes to White

Pin 6 of the ISC goes to Green

[eclipsh]

Awesome, thanks! I'll cross reference that with the 1g wiring at the ECU and see what I come up with. Unfortunately I'm stuck with the 2g TB right now or trying to switch over to the Galant's TB. I haven't dug into the 2nd option yet.

[mko]

i believe the wiring is the same

[eclipsh]

Well I went out of town Friday and Saturday. Thursday I pulled the rear subframe, suspension, gas tank and exhaust out. I also cut the body and popped the rear subframe bolts out to replace them with the longer awd bolts then drilled holes right behind the back seat hinges to drop bolts in for the front of the subframe. I got a bit of the wiring for the harness done too.

Today I got back to work on the harness and got a lot done. I pulled all the A/T components out and added the wiring for the coil pack/transistor, and resistor pack for the injectors. I still need to wire in a reverse light switch, knock sensor and cam sensor. I also need to wire in the ISC motor and eventually the fans. Pins on the 1g ECU that are still open are:

110 - ignition switch
63 mpi control relay
67-8, 58-9 for ISC
13 control relay fuel pump
1 self diagnostic (pin 42 or 43 of Galant ECU, haven't checked yet)
2 diagnostics
3 turbo gauge - will need to run this wire and fit 2g gauges into dash still. I also need to look into wiring the oil pressure gauge and all the other gauges for that matter... I haven't looked at the connectors yet to see if they'll match.

4 - O2 sensor
7 A/C Switch
21 CAS
22 TDC sensor
9 knock sensor


I also took care of the repairs to my ECU and added a socket for the EPROM. Doing that took a good chunk of the morning but it is done.

I will also need to add the wires for my MAP sensor and IAT sensor to run speed density and get my wideband harness added into the mix.


Boy I hope I haven't screwed anything up yet... Tracking down wiring mistakes in this hodgepodge will be a pain.:smt073

Tomorrow I'll get started tearing down the Talon...

[DOHCstunr]

I pray that you are photo-documenting this.
Every step you take deserves a photo.

Keep it up man, i'm stoked to see what you can churn out.

[eclipsh]

Thank you. I greatly appreciate everyone's help and I'm happy to document my progress here in return. I'm not taking many pictures of the wiring but I've got plenty of photos of everything else.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/feb09038.jpg

In case you can't tell what the picture below is that hole is where the rear subframe bolt slips through. Cutting the caps that hold the bolts in place was all sorts of fun.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/feb09046.jpg

There's all the Galant suspension bits that I'll be replacing with the DSM parts as well as a rather banged up gas tank.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/feb09039.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/feb09040.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/feb09041.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/feb09043.jpg

That bolt hole on the left of the rail is where the new subframe bolts should drop through.

[DOHCstunr]

Fantastic.

[JDM4G64T]

Nice work so far!!!!

[Shadow19]

If you pull this off its gonna be so fucking sweet! I think ive seen a couple of guys try their hands at this and gave up somewhere down the line.. Im ready to see this in action! I want to do the swap myself but im not sure im ready to cut shit and make room for exhaust and driveshafts.............. Good work so far bro.

[eclipsh]

Oh I'll pull it off. At this point I don't really have an option if I want a car to drive! I spent yesterday pulling the engine and transmission out of the 95 Talon I'm using as a donor. I didn't realize how much more of a pain in the ass the 2g DSMs are to work on compared to my old 1g. What used to take half a day never seemed to end. The A/C pump was particularly annoying.

Regardless, I have the rear subframe of the Talon lying on the ground with the drive shaft still bolted up. I should have done that the other way around but it did help keep the subframe from rotating on the jack as I lowered it. I'll get the shaft unbolted and drag the subframe out this morning. Then I'll drop the rest of the drive shaft and e-brake cables. Rather than pulling apart the rear drums to get the e-brake cables out I opted to just pull the cables. It is only a handful of bolts and I needed to pull both center consoles. Seemed like a no brainer to me.

If all goes well I'll have the parts I need from the Talon off by noon today then I'll be bolting the Galant rear subframe and front suspension back into the Talon so it can be rolled around or eventually turned into a FWD car and sold.

The really interesting part will be trying to figure out how I'll route the exhaust. I don't want to cut up the tunnel of the Galant as I'm not skilled enough with fabrication to mess with it. The best solutions I can figure out each have their own drawbacks.

My first thought was to run dual 2" or 2.25" exhaust after the flex section. There is more space at the front of the tunnel than the rear so I can probably squeeze the y in up there and then run the pipes as close to the drive shaft as is safe. I won't know how practical this will be until the shaft is in the Galant. If I go with dual 2" it will flow less than the single 3" but if I go 2.25" it will flow more than the 3". Of course at that point I am not saving much space either.

My other thought is running rectangular exhaust piping. It could run under the floor boards and be low profile enough that I won't rip it out on the first speed bump or getting out of my garage. Unfortunately rectangular pipe flows very poorly compared to round so I'd have to go pretty big to make this work. That also becomes self defeating at some point.

The last option is to just run the 3" exhaust that was on my Talon when I bought it and hang the thing as high as I possibly can. I don't really like this as ground clearance does matter here.

In any case I'll see what I've got to work with in the next day or two as the AWD parts start making their way into the Galant.

[kolio]

thr drive shaft and exhaust have always stumped me.

i don't know if you could do it, but kind of bang a notch into the side of the tunnel to fit the exhaust snugly in there. otherwise just run it hanging down a little.

good luck and keep up the work.

also where are you located?

[DOHCstunr]

it won't be any different than on the 2g.
the driveshaft doesnt' go perfectly in the middle of the exhaust tunnel,
its offset to the passenger side, and the exhaust is offset to the driverside.
with the heatshields out, there should be plenty of room.

[eclipsh]

Thanks for the input. If I can squeeze the 3" Apexi exhaust I've got in there I will.

It is now 12:30 and I'm taking a break. I have all the parts I need out of the Talon now save the rear subframe bolts. I plan on leaving those and just buying some high grade bolts at the hardware store. I'm not too worried about the bolts sticking up a bit in the trunk and it'll save a lot of hassle.

I'm in southwest Colorado btw. The snow we get is a big reason for why I'm going to the trouble of sticking with AWD. That and it is just way more fun than FWD ;)

[seth98esT]

Run stock exhaust and an o2 dump or run an electric cutout before the cat along with a 2.25" cat back.

[eclipsh]

So my "no brainer" with the e-brake cables could have used more brains. Turns out they are different enough to not be interchangeable. I'll be swapping those out today.

My dad helped me bring my Talon parts back from his place yesterday (I used his barn for stripping it down). He and I were looking at the mounting points for the drive shaft last night. Unfortunately the center hangar that 2g FWD DSMs have (http://files.automotiveforums.com/images/articleimages/awdswap/IMGA0120.jpg) isn't in our car. I'd hoped to just drop some bolts through the body into said nonexistent bracket. Now I'm thinking I'll either eliminate the front joint all together by making a two piece shaft or I'll mock up the tunnel using cardboard to see if the AWD mounting point will fit. It looks like it might but I'd rather leave the DSM shell as intact as possible.

As for the rear mount we are thinking about fabricating a steel piece that will incorporate the FWD gas tank bolts as part of the mounts. We'll basically use a piece of L and box steel welded together with the L wrapping up around the unibody were it punches up for the back seats. It should be wide enough to spread the torque across the body as well as, or better than, the factory mounting point. We'll bolt it in place at the FWD gas tank studs and weld the L to the unibody. I'll get the engine/tranny and rear end into the car first so I can string a line for the driveshaft and determine the exact alignment of the mounts.

Oh... one little perk of going with a 2 piece shaft would be more space for the exhaust :) Thanks for your suggestion Seth but that won't be an option for two reasons. One is that I don't have a stock turbo exhaust to use, the Talon came with the 3" exhaust I have. The other is that I always want to have full power available to me when I want it but without deafening anyone with a cutout. I'll know more about the exhaust once I have the driveshaft sorted out.

[seth98esT]

For the carrier bearing, you have to drill out the spod welds on the 2g bracket, then re-weld it to your 7g. What I would do is use either the front or rear 2g shaft in order to get the carrier bracket in the right spot, weld it up, then either extend the other half of the driveshaft or get it custom made.

As for the rear end, Im not sure what you are talking about. The entire rear 2g subframe should bolt up. You have to cut two holes in the floor of the 7g to take out the stock subframe bolts and use the longer 2g awd subframe bolts.

Have you looked through this?
http://www.automotivearticles.com/AWD_Conversion.shtml

[eclipsh]

Seth I think you got a little mixed up. My entire last post was about the drive shaft. The subframe will work out just fine. It turns out that the FWD subframe bolts are just the right length when dropped through the front hole for the AWD subframe. I'll just spot weld them into place from the bottom so they don't spin when I torque down the nuts. I'm going to buy some 7" long bolts for the rear mounting point of the subframe so I don't have to cut up the Talon. I think the shell should be worth more if it hasn't been cut up.

I have read your link several times and in fact have a picture from it linked in my post just above this :) Thanks for looking out for me though.

I still plan on fabricating my own rear mount and I'll figure out the rest of the drive shaft after that. Today was spent checking the fit of the AWD subframe in the Galant, with my happy discovery that the FWD bolts will work, and cutting out the two rear gas tank mounts as they interfere with the AWD subframe. I also got the FWD components bolted to the Talon so I could get it rolling and moved it out of my parent's barn and got the Galant e-brake cables off the FWD subframe. The clips to hold them into the rear drums are different but should be fine. The Talon uses holding clips on the outside while the Galant uses clips on the inside. Oh, another side note is that the rear brake fluid lines are different as well so they have to be swapped over with the AWD rear end.

[mko]

So, youre saying that Galant's rear subframe bolts are long enough to accommodate the AWD subframe? How about the front - is there any problem with the Galants front subframe and the AWD tranny and transfer case?

[eclipsh]

So, youre saying that Galant's rear subframe bolts are long enough to accommodate the AWD subframe? How about the front - is there any problem with the Galants front subframe and the AWD tranny and transfer case?

OK, I'm making this too confusing. Time for a diagram ;)

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/rearsubframebolts.jpg

I meant that the subframe bolts which get pulled from "A" are the right length to drop through "C". The rear bolts, "A", need to be about 6.5-7" long. As the front most holes at C don't have the extra bracing and sleeve for the bolt the head rests right on the frame. That means the 4" bolt that was in A sticks down far enough to work when used at C (the AWD subframe needs at least 3" of bolt sticking out to work).

The front subframe looks like it should be fine. Thankfully I don't think they made more than one type.

Incidentally, the FWD subframe's front bolt at "B" interferes with the AWD subframe and has to be cut off or removed. I decided to just cut the floor and pop them out to avoid having a loose bolt rattling around forever. If someone wanted to they could probably drill another hole through the AWD subframe and run another long bolt down through. However the area that it hits is right where the AWD subframe starts to bend down towards the front bolt hole so the nut wouldn't have a flat place to sit. It'd be easy enough to cut a piece of pipe at the correct angle and weld it onto the frame though for that extra support. I may end up doing this since the front bolt is just sitting on the frame.

[skrap]

OK i have a question about this subject. Its not directly linked but its on the same page. Are you going to put a vr4 in or are you going to use a 4g63? Also would this aplication work with our 4g64 sohc? i mean would the awd trans match up? if so how much rewiring would it be?

*Edit* Btw we should make this a sticky. Very useful info!!!!!!

[eclipsh]

I'll be going with the 4G63T. Why bother with anything else? ;)

The bell housing of the transmission will bolt up to the '64 just fine if you wanted to go that route. You'd have an underpowered AWD slug of a car but it'd work. Picture a base model Impreza. You'd also avoid all the nasty wiring muck that I'm having to dig through, though by writing up my stuff it'll save you 98% of the headache.

Once everything is up and running and I can scrape some cash together I'll be using the '64 block, or the crank in my 2.0, to build myself a turbo 2.4 or 2.3 with forged pistons and rods and the DOHC head.

[akamikeymo]

Damn Nick, that's an awesome project. I signed on to the forum just so I could watch the build. I always thought it would be great to create a DSM equipped 7G VR4.

Do you plan on sourcing the body panels once the engine and drive train are complete?

All that work is inspiring me to get busy making the Colt AWD.

Michael

[eclipsh]

Thanks Michael! It was actually our conversations about AWD Colts that got me looking for an AWD sedan conversion project and eventually led to this. I'm glad you're getting to check out the build and I hope you get your Colt conversion done soon!

Incidentally the only car related thing I did today was get the grade 8 bolts for point "A" on the rear subframe. I found 1/2" by 7" with a steep thread pitch was as close as I could come but it'll work just fine. I also bought some 6" long bolts just in case the 7's are too long. Otherwise today was spent cleaning house and making eggplant parmesan. It was a much needed break from the car. I'll get back to bolting in the rear end, manual transmission components and the engine tomorrow. I still need to wrap up the wiring too. After this weekend the project will be on hold for a week while I'm doing some Special High Intensity Training for work up in Denver. I'll be sure to take pictures as the parts go into the Galant.

[kolio]

Damn Nick, that's an awesome project. I signed on to the forum just so I could watch the build. I always thought it would be great to create a DSM equipped 7G VR4.

Do you plan on sourcing the body panels once the engine and drive train are complete?

All that work is inspiring me to get busy making the Colt AWD.

Michael

7G's are DSM's why people don't realize is beyond me. it says DSM on his engine bay tag.


but i like the info coming in. keep it coming!!!

[akamikeymo]

7G's are DSM's why people don't realize is beyond me. it says DSM on his engine bay tag.


but i like the info coming in. keep it coming!!!

With all the people out building 7Gs, you'd think everyone would know they are DSMs. :roll:
I've now been enlightened. :smt023

Back to the show... keep the updates coming.

[eclipsh]

Well I didn't get as much done yesterday as I wanted to. I spent all my garage time fiddling with the engine. I got my wideband O2 sensor in and made a small bracket to mount my MAP sensor on the back side of the intake manifold. I also got the 450 injectors out and was going to put my 780's in when I found I was missing a seal on one of them. Unfortunately the one I'm missing at the bottom can't be swapped from the stock injectors as they're different sizes. So they'll be sitting and waiting until I get some new seals in the mail.

As for the body panels you asked about earlier Michael, I'd love to get the JDM front bumper cover and get some nice side skirts eventually. If anyone has some spares lying around they're more than welcome to send or bring them to me. ;)

Today I'm going to start with getting the rear subframe bolts tack welded into place and getting the subrame in. I need to finish swapping the e-brake cables too. After that I'll work on getting the engine/tranny into the bay so I can get driveshaft and exhaust issues figured out. If I manage to get all of that done I'll work on the wiring harness and shifter bits. I have a full stainless clutch line on it's way from Mach V (http://www.machv.com/mavclli.html) now since getting the hard line out of the Talon was far too much work to be worth it. There's still lots of work to go but I think I'm on the downhill slope so long as my wiring works.

[eclipsh]

As usual the day didn't go as planned. I got an early start but as my wife was sleeping I got to work on wiring first. I ended up spending half of the day working on the wiring. Here's what I've got set:

1g - 7g
101 - 13
102 - 12
103 - 60
104 - 26
105 - n/a (wastegate solenoid)
106 - 26
107 - 25
108 - 51
109 - tach signal from transistor
110 - 71

51 - 1
52 - 14
53 - 6
54 - transistor
55 - transistor
56 - 8
57 - ? fuel pressure control valve
58 - 4
59 - 17
60 - 2
61 - 15
62 - 9
63 ? MPI control relay
64 - 36
22 - 65
66 ? MPI control relay
67 - 18
68 - 5

1 - 42
2 - 43
3 - turbo gauge, I'm not wiring this for now
4 - O2 sensor, wiring this from my wideband
5 - 37
6 - 19
7 ? A/C Switch
8 - 52
9 - detonation / knock sensor
10 - 70
11 - n/a for abs
12 - 34
13 ? control relay (fuel pump drive signal)
14 - 67
15 - 53
16 - 65
17 - 72
18 - 66
19 -
20 - 63
21 - crank angle sensor RPM
22 - TDC from CAS
23 - 61
24 - 72

I also got the MAP and IAT sensors wired into the MAS wiring.

The fun part of the day was getting the rear subframe bolted in. The less fun side was looking at where the drive shaft is lining up.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/feb09058.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/feb09065.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/feb09064.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/feb09063.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/feb09062.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/feb09059.jpg

The tabs from the carrier are hitting at that height on both sides. It is about right for clearance above it but a little deeper into the tunnel than I'd like for my custom bracket. I may still end up pulling the factory one from the Talon if it looks like it'll fit.

[akamikeymo]

From the pictures, it looks like your exhaust is going to be a tight squeeze. How much room is actually there? As was stated earlier, it looks as if you may need to run it a little low.

[eclipsh]

Well I'm back from training and I'll be back to working 40 hours a week so progress will be slowing down.

We think we've got the drive shaft figured out. I'll likely be shortening the rear shaft by an inch or two. That will bring the carrier bearing out of the tunnel and in line with the large cross brace in the unibody where the front gas tank studs drop down. It will make it much easier to design the mounts and easier to move it closer to the passenger side where it should be. This should also leave plenty of room for my 3" exhaust in the tunnel.

While I was gone my stainless clutch line arrived along with new capacitors for my ECU. I'd found some capacitors at Radio Shack but the voltage was too low. I got the right set off eBay Motors for a few bucks.

I'll have tomorrow off from work so I'll probably use that time to get the engine in place. If nothing else it feels like a big accomplishment and it'll open up some floor space in the garage.

[eclipsh]

Well I got the clutch pedal assembly, master cylinder and M/T brake pedal in this morning.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/feb09067.jpg

This afternoon I got the engine and transmission in with three motor mounts holding it in place. They're dirty and ugly but still turbo and AWD. :D


http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/feb09066.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/feb09068.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/feb09069.jpg

There is quite a bit more space to work with between the intake and the firewall than in the Talon, for which I'm exceedingly grateful.

Monday I'll bolt up the transfer case, front cross member, front axles and suspension.

[seth98esT]

Yes, the 7g engine bay is much much easier to work in then any 1g or especially 2g bay. So much more room back on the firewall by the clutch master.

[DOHCstunr]

ditch the cruise. get a 2g non cruise throttle cable,. clean that bay up a ton.

[da1085]

everytime i get on the forum and read this thread it makes me wish i kept my 7g instead of trading it in for the 1g. eventhough they were both at the house already. i miss the bigger enigne bay.


by the way is it a 4 bolt rear?

[eclipsh]

DOHCstunr, I may move the cruise control down a bit so it is less conspicuous but I'll be doing road trips in this so the cruise will come in handy (if it works).

da1085, you can always pick another 7g up cheap ;) Also, all the AWD DSMs 92+ used a 4 bolt rear end, it was only the 1gA 90-91 that used the 3 bolt.

I was looking at the fuel tank wiring and realized that the plugs are unique so I can't strip compatible parts off my old harness. Looks like I'll be cutting the wires off the Talon after all.

[Galant306m]

Amazing, Looks so awsome and you work fast as hell.

[eclipsh]

Thanks to whoever gave me the rep points :)

I'm getting a little done before work each day. I got the shifter and shift cables hooked up this morning. It feels a bit stiff without fluid in the tranny and the clutch not hooked up yet but it works. I don't have any pictures... it is just a shifter after all ;)

I also double checked the fitment of the gas tank and it should slip in there just fine. I think I'll have to drop the rear subframe to do it.\ The tank tucks up above the rear diff a bit. I can just drop the four bolts and leave the rear upper arms attached to save some trouble.

[akamikeymo]

I like how, unlike with AWD Mirage conversions, you don't have to cut out any of the trunk for the rear diff. Furthermore, with yours, there seems to be no reason to install a fuel cell in the trunk.

[kolio]

I like how, unlike with AWD Mirage conversions, you don't have to cut out any of the trunk for the rear diff. Furthermore, with yours, there seems to be no reason to install a fuel cell in the trunk.

it's like it was meant for all the stuff to be in the car. i would like to get my hands on the 7G vr-4 rear to see how all that stuff looks and what the diffrences are.

[akamikeymo]

Indeed. Another great comparison would be to compare different EVO generations.

[kolio]

Indeed. Another great comparison would be to compare different EVO generations.

i know some evos AWD parts are compatible with the 8G vr-4

[hk20000]

I like how, unlike with AWD Mirage conversions, you don't have to cut out any of the trunk for the rear diff. Furthermore, with yours, there seems to be no reason to install a fuel cell in the trunk.

No you can't use the FWD fuel tank in the Galant because the driveshaft won't fit.

But you have a Eclipse GSX donor car right? That tank will bolt right up and clear your shafts at the same time! Good luck!

[kolio]

No you can't use the FWD fuel tank in the Galant because the driveshaft won't fit.

But you have a Eclipse GSX donor car right? That tank will bolt right up and clear your shafts at the same time! Good luck!

he didn't say to use the FWD tank

[eclipsh]

Yup, I am using the AWD gas tank. It doesn't "bolt right up" as there are no bolt holes there yet. I'll have to drill the body and drop studs down just like they do for the 2g Eclipse AWD conversions. It looks like all the sheet metal etc in the rear of the Galant is identical to that of a 2g Eclipse save the narrower center tunnel. It makes complete sense as it saved Mitsu from having to create a new set of stamps etc for different models. I too would be interested in what other Mitsu cars share parts over various generations. I'm sure all sorts of fun can be had swapping things around if people look hard enough.

[lilbttrcup]

evo 8 rear diff has the same gear ratio as an auto awd dsm IIRC. 3rd gen eclipse has 1g front suspension design and 2g rear design, the mismatch of parts that work together make huge numbers of possibilities to get things to work.

[eclipsh]

I did some interesting reading over on DSMTuners today.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/vendor-announcements/329536-awesome-evo-9-pistons-frankenstien-6-bolt.html

If it works out that I can use the Evo 9 pistons it should make building a stroker a bit more reasonable.

[Shadow19]

For that price ill pay for wiseco pistons and not have to machine anything down. Good find thoguh.

[eclipsh]

For the 7 bolt block and rods there is no machining at all. I have a friend with some forged 7 bolt rods I can buy. If the combo will work for strokers it'll drop my price by $300+.

My dad came by with a 13" long piece of 3"x3" 1/4" thick angle iron yesterday for the carrier bearing base. I drilled out some holes to slip it over the front gas tank studs then we marked out the holes where the exhaust hangar used to bolt up at the end of the tunnel and drilled some holes there as well. We now have four bolts to hold the steel in place and can weld it to the unibody in a few spots too. We'll be adding some 2" square, 1/4" wall, box steel to either side for dropping some bolts through for hangar studs. I think I'll hit the hardware store and pick up some log bolts that will drop through the angle iron and box steel for studs and weld the heads to the angle iron. Hopefully I'll get some pictures of all this up later today.

[phizzalot]

Wow, i can't believe I skipped over this thread so many times...Nice work nick, Iam glad to see the progress you have made and the pics you have taken. Iam interested as well to see your setup in the rear for attaching the carrier bearing and exhaust.

Have you thought of using a one piece aluminum driveshaft? I know a lot of evos here in south florida are switching out for one.

Also I was wondering if you changed the front subframe out for the awd trans/center diff?

[DOHCstunr]

front subframes are the same. no need to switch them out.

[eclipsh]

^ What he said and thanks :) I looked into a one piece but I've heard they like to vibrate too much at high speeds and that they have to be so thick that it'd be unfeasible for this project. A two piece shaft should work just fine.

I ended up spending today working on the front end. I got my A/C pump bolted up after some struggling. It turns out the bracket for mounting it is different on the Galant and the Talon so I had to swap those. Believe it or not, that ended up chewing away the entire morning.

After that I bolted the transfer case in, hooked up the clutch slave cylinder and attached the heater hoses.

I also got the front cross member and motor mount bolted on. The Talon's mount was shot so I ended up using the A/T mount which was wider and still in great shape.

The last thing I did was bolt up the passenger front suspension and axle. It looks like replacing all the ball joints will be a summer project. They're all a bit worn but still in safe condition so for now I'm opting to just get the car together and rolling.

[seth98esT]

I renamed the thread since its no longer really about a 1g harness / ECU :P

Keep up the work man, post more pics!

[eclipsh]

Thanks for the rename Seth. I can't believe I didn't realize you're the same Seth as over on Tuners :p

I forgot to mention one other thing about yesterday. I was hooking up the alternator when I found that the Galant used the 1g DSM connections which are very different than the 2g DSM connections. So I swapped the alternators out and attached the wiring. Thankfully the power steering pump didn't have any issues and bolted right up.

So for those trying this in the future know that the 94 Galant uses the same alternator and A/C bracket as a 1g DSM. It would have been much easier to swap these out with both engines still out of the car :p

[akamikeymo]

Damn, this thread is really turning out to be full of great information. Keep it up.

[eclipsh]

Well it is my weekend again. This morning I split the driveshaft at the CV joint and took the rear portion to be shortened. I'll be having 1.5" removed to line it up perfectly with the center of the unibody brace just behind the tunnel. The other day I installed my injectors and rail as well as the driver's half shaft. I'll finish installing the suspension on the drivers side this afternoon and see what else I can get done. Maybe I'll wrap up the wiring today/tomorrow and get it connected.

My next dilemma will be cooling the intake charge. I am debating going with a cheap FMIC or this liquid/air setup (http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=216&products_id=1006&osCsid=27be1b323a110349f8c4cfdc85fa6fa6). The second would be nice but more expensive since a friend will help me make my intercooler piping for next to nothing. It'd also be heavier but easier to package and more efficient. Well enough BS, time to get to work.

[phizzalot]

NIce updates... how did that custom angle iron hanger turn out for the carrier bearing?

will you be welding it to the unibody or is that just an option for later?

Just curious to see the piece because if you just bolt it up than your awd swap will be relatively easy to replicate with it.
any pics??

[eclipsh]

The angle iron piece hasn't changed any yet. I'm waiting to get the driveshaft tomorrow to add the mounting points to it. Here's a pic if the piece.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/feb09080.jpg

I got the front suspension and axles all in and done with today. Not terribly exciting but it is one more step done.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/feb09081.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/feb09082.jpg

I also got the radiator in but I haven't messed with the fan wiring yet.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/feb09083.jpg

Lastly I replaced the capacitors in the ECU with the correct ones and swapped it into the Galant case. The EPROM cover fit the Galant case so I used it and routed the Ostrich wiring out the bottom of it.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/feb09084.jpg

I also added the wires for the reverse light switch and pulled the factory knock sensor wiring from my spare harness and added it in. I'm still missing wires at pins 7, 13, 63, and 66 on the 1g ecu. I'm pretty stumped by what I should hook up there.

Pin 7 is the air conditioner switch
Pin 13 is the control relay (fuel pump drive signal)
Pin 63 and 66 both go to MPI control relay pin 8 on a 1g DSM.

I don't know where to go with these and could use some help.

[eclipsh]

I got the driveshaft back yesterday with 1.5" taken out. It lines up perfectly. My dad came by and helped make the mounting points and took it back to his place to finish up the welds as it was too cold and windy outside to finish it at my house and too dangerous inside. I also picked up the radiator hoses I needed and worked on more wiring.

I need some help on this last bit of wiring for the MPI/MFI relay and could use some input on making sure everything else is wired up right if anyone feels like going over it.

Looking at the diagram below, it looks like the Galant takes pin 6 of the MPI relay straight to ground along with pins 13 and 26 of the ECU.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/galant-mfi-relay.jpg

In the 1g ECU pin 8 of the MPI relay looks like it carries out the same function but goes to pins 63 and 66 of the 1g ECU rather than to ground.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/90-91EL-73.jpg

What I'm wondering is if I should cut the wire from pin 6 of the Galant relay to route it to pins 63 and 66 of the 1g ECU or if I should just continue to let it run to ground and skip wiring up the two 1g ECU pins.

[DOHCstunr]

If i get a chance
i'll pull back my carpet this afternoon and tell you what i did.

I left ALL the wire labels on so i could easily identify galant harness/1g ecu pins

I don't remember even having an issue with that one.

[eclipsh]

Thank you :)

A minor update for this morning; I got the AWD fuel pump wires soldered and wrapped so it is ready to go. There are a few extra wires for the ABS mixed in that I eliminated since my car doesn't have ABS and adding it would be a royal PITA.

I also swapped the speed sensor from the Galant a/t over to the DSM M/T in case it would effect the odometer or speedometer.

[DOHCstunr]

i'm pretty sure they are the same sensor as far as speedo goes. I mean... its all about ticks per mile.

on the 7g the ABS is 100% completely independant of the ecu.
I do have ABS on my 7g and did not bother to hook the 1g pin for ABS to anything. i just capped it off.
So no worries there.

[eclipsh]

On the 2g DSM it also has a seperate ECU for the ABS but I'd have to separate out the wiring from the main harness, pull the pump and hard lines and a whole mess of other stuff I just didn't want to deal with.

I also left the 1g ABS connector alone. It was the wires that were part of the gas tank harness for the AWD tank that I yanked out. Did you get a chance to check your wires? I'm paranoid as hell about the wiring since I REALLY don't want to pull it back out and rewire anything after it is in.

EDIT: Never mind on pins 63 and 66. I just cut the ground wire from the relay and routed it to the pins.

[eclipsh]

I managed to scrounge up a little help with the car this morning. It is about time they did something useful.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/April09023.jpg

Last night my dad came by and we fit the new carrier bearing mount to the car. This morning I drilled and tapped some holes in the tube and dropped two 10x1.25 bolts through as studs for the carrier.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/April09025.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/April09026.jpg

After that I bolted it up into the car and snapped a quick pic.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/April09028.jpg

When I can I'll be taking the car to a professional welder to have the welds cleaned up and have the piece welded to the body of the car. With the welds and studs I think it will be more than enough to carry the drive shaft.

I slid the 3" exhaust from the Talon donor in to check fitment. Of course it is too short but the important thing is that it will squeeze past the carrier bearing without being too low. I'll need to straighten out a section in the exhaust and add some length to it but otherwise it should work fine.

I also added some studs for the front of the gas tank. I'll need to wait to add the rear studs until I measure for the front drive shaft and then drop the rear subframe.

The wiring is also almost complete. I need to replace a power wire for the cruise control which I cut out with the A/T components. I did trace and connect the wiring for the reverse lights which different for a M/T car. I'm also waiting on two displays for my JAW WBO2 unit. I will be using it to run my boost gauge and show my AFR within the factory cluster just underneath the tach and speedo.

On that note, one piece I haven't traced and wired yet is the tach. I haven't found a good diagram of the gauges yet.

[Galant306m]

looking good!

send me that mount so i can reweld it for you.

[eclipsh]

Thanks but: 1, I'd like to keep the piece ;) and 2, the plan is to weld it to the car which would be difficult to ship :D

I tinkered with a bit more wiring this afternoon and cleaned the car some. I also filled the clutch fluid and got most of the air out of the lines. I've got a buddy coming over tonight and hopefully we can measure for the front drive shaft while he's over. Once that is done I can drop the rear subframe, get the e-brakes working (I'll explain later) and get the gas tank in. I'll have to drop everything again later to get the carrier bearing bracket welded in but at that point I should have the car up on a lift at my buddy's house which will make it much easier to do. That will also be where I fab up my exhaust and intercooler piping.

[akamikeymo]

LOL... Your dogs are awesome.

Nick, the car is really coming along. Keep up the good work. It looks like it'll be able to take a lot of abuse (i.e. twisty roads) and keep on going.

[Galanttuner10]

nice work and info here.. i wanna pick up anther 7g and make it awd and your helping me out a lot.. keep it up

[eclipsh]

Thanks :) After talking to my friend about intercoolers and making piping I decided to just buy a kit. I just picked this one (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=190298914119) up off eBay. Seemed like the best deal I could find.

[da1085]

Thanks :) After talking to my friend about intercoolers and making piping I decided to just buy a kit. I just picked this one (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=190298914119) up off eBay. Seemed like the best deal I could find.

thats a nice kit. i wish my pipe came with a flange for a stock bov (1g) instead of the tail one. very nice build.

[kolio]

great job man! this is what we all would like to do!

[eclipsh]

I was wrapping up the last of the wiring this morning and noticed something under the dash; what looks like an OBDII port. The build date on my car is Feb 94. Odd...

At any rate, I'm all done with wiring save the radiator fans. I'm looking into which temp sensor wire I'll need to tap but I ran out of time this morning. Tomorrow I'll measure for the drive shaft, drop the rear subframe to finish the brake cables and gas tank and install the wiring harness.

Oh, and I hooked pin 45 of the Galant to pin 7 of the DSM ECU for the A/C pressure switch.

[bmore303]

Yep it's an OBD 2 port...I'm trying to figure that bit out myself to be honest.

[mko]

thats a part of OBD1.5. it has obd1 and obd2 plugs and in order to read a code with a scanner you have to use both

[Galanttuner10]

great job man! this is what we all would like to do!

defintly i plan on doing this and seeing it done is amazing.. cant wait to see this done

[eclipsh]

Well I got the wiring harness in and I'm getting it all hooked up. I also got a delivery today, my new FMIC. I'll pull the front cover off today and see how it'll fit.

EDIT: How the heck does this thing think I have 3 posts total? Oh and when does Newbie status go away so I can update my garage/photos etc?

[kolio]

Well I got the wiring harness in and I'm getting it all hooked up. I also got a delivery today, my new FMIC. I'll pull the front cover off today and see how it'll fit.

EDIT: How the heck does this thing think I have 3 posts total? Oh and when does Newbie status go away so I can update my garage/photos etc?

post only count in tech forums. wich you should have more.

[Proto]

Can't wait to see the finished product

[eclipsh]

post only count in tech forums. wich you should have more.

You know, that does make me wonder why this got moved. It is loaded with good technical information on doing the swap, from wiring to custom fabrication and all that jazz.

At any rate, my FMIC showed up this afternoon. I pulled the front cover off in preparation for installing it. I ran out of electrical tape for the wiring harness but everything is plugged in. I may stick the battery in and hook my logger up to see how much I did right.

[eclipsh]

Well my buddy Rick came over to the house yesterday and we got the Galant onto a trailer. Off it went to his place where we got it up on his lift and started working.

Rick spent the day working on fitting my FMIC. He's very particular about how things are made so he took his time but did a great job mounting it and routing the piping.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/April09035.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/April09037.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/April09052.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/April09054.jpg

I spent the day working on getting the carrier bearing bracket and fitting the exhaust. Rick had the idea to put 4" bolts through the top of the carrier bearing plate and body of the car to bolt it through the top and skip welding it to the car. If you look at the bracket in the picture below you can see two small holes on the flat plate where I drilled through the car. The bolts aren't in it.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/April09045.jpg

After that I got the exhaust going, cutting up the 3" Apexi that was on the Talon and fitting it into the tighter tunnel of the Galant. The Talon exhaust had a lot of extra kinks and bends in the center that made it impossible to fit. So I cut them out and ran a straight section of pipe we got from one of Rick's friends.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/April09044.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/April09040.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/April09042.jpg

After fitting it up, another friend of Rick's came over and welded things up for us. He's a fantastic welder and a very nice guy to boot.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/April09051.jpg

With that done I still need to get the gas tank in, finish a couple small wiring bits, get my gauge cluster together and a few other odds and ends. It was a productive day and I look forward to heading back over next Friday to finish it up.

[akamikeymo]

That's great progress Nick. The carrier bearing bracket looks fantastic.

It must be nice having access to a lift.

[fuel]

Good progress going on! That would truly be one of a kind on your side of the world!

also, do I spy a section of your chassis rail crushed??

[eclipsh]

Thanks Fuel, I know this has been done to a few Dodges but I may be the first to complete it in the U.S. or North America. Kinda cool thinking that.

You do indeed spy a section of my chassis rail crushed. It looks like they nailed something big on that side. Thankfully the fuel lines are in good shape. I'll bang the floor back down at some point and see about getting the rail fixed up too.

Michael, the lift is a godsend. I fit together my Talon's exhaust by crawling under it on the ground. I'm very happy I didn't have to do it again on this.

Also, I dropped the drive shaft off to be built today. They promised to have it ready for me Thursday morning. For total measurements, I shortened the rear shaft by 2" which left the front shaft at 56.25". I'd explain where I took the measurements but I'll just post up a picture to explain it later.

[eclipsh]

Just a minor update, last night I finally got the displays for my JAW O2 unit. Here is how I mounted them.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/April09055.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/April09057.jpg

Unfortunately I had already cut out the Tach side when I realized that I couldn't mount the speedo side as high. Otherwise I could have set them at the same height. Someday I'll probably get another tach cover and get them mounted more evenly.

[Galant306m]

Thats awesome. Great work man cant wait to see it finished.

[phizzalot]

Very nice progress!!!! Note to self Google JAW 02 :)

can't wait to see the gas tank go in...or will you be going with a fuel cell?

[eclipsh]

No need to google, check out http://14point7.com/

As I mentioned a few times earlier in this thread I will be using the stock AWD gas tank in the Galant. Unfortonately someone cut the threaded portion off my fuel pump lines so I'll need to replace the fuel pump cover or take parts off the FWD fuel pump cover to make it work.

[da1085]

i was thinking of using the JAW wideband but then i found out that they also have the NAW oem. my 1g is ready to be driven other than not having the legal stickers and a wideband. i would had pulled the trigger on the NAW kit but then it wasn't programmable plus it wasn't an identical to lc1 in the output.

nby the way my screen name on dsmap is doroyce05 :)

[eclipsh]

Well the drive train is done. I have the drive shaft and exhaust in, the gas tank in and fluids topped off. Unfortunately my wiring didn't work. The car won't turn over with the key and I'm not getting a ground signal for the injectors when I use a jumper wire to turn the car over (key on of course). I am getting spark though so that is one good thing. I'll look into the rest as I find time.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/April09058.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/April09059.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/April09063.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/April09064.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/April09067.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/April09068.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/April09069.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/April09071.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/April09076.jpg

As you can see clearances were very tight with the 3" exhaust. It tucks up nicely though. We did have to bang in a couple spots so it wouldn't rub on the drive shaft. I'll also need to grind the center exhaust flange down a bit to keep it from rubbing but otherwise it fits like a dream.

[kolio]

i'm so pumped for you. once you get it figured out we need launch vids!!!!

[mko]

wow, youre killing it man. great work. The last picture makes me wanna have AWD galant.

I think that 3'' is a lil overkill if you dont have built motor, cuz you can boost stock motor just that much and the stock 2.25'' or aftermarket 2.5'' can handle it with some straight resonators and a high flow cat...........I have 3'' exhaust:)

Everything looks amazing, hopefully we will see more Galants going this way.

[phizzalot]

That really looks good!!!! Iam glad to see a 7g awd conversion finally happen...
Man that awd gas tank looks like it fits perfect!!!!

Could you take a pic of your jpipe/licp from inside the bay... Just curious...

Very Nice Job indeed!!!

[DOHCstunr]

wow, youre killing it man. great work. The last picture makes me wanna have AWD galant.

I think that 3'' is a lil overkill if you dont have built motor, cuz you can boost stock motor just that much and the stock 2.25'' or aftermarket 2.5'' can handle it with some straight resonators and a high flow cat...........I have 3'' exhaust:)

Everything looks amazing, hopefully we will see more Galants going this way.

on a 14b and a stock 4g63 a 3" exhaust will yeild significant gains over a 2.25 exhaust.

all the backpressure needed on a turbocharged engine will be found in the manifold. any backpressure post-turbo will steal both torque and power.

[DOHCstunr]

I'm suprised you didn't yank the heatshield out of the exhaust tunnel just to free up more working room. I ditched mine a long time ago.

[eclipsh]

Thanks again for all the encouragement guys. I'm really looking forward to getting my wiring straight and starting this puppy up!

MKO, a turbo works as a pressure differential machine. The greater the change in pressure before vs. after the hot side the more efficiently the turbo can operate and the more power you get. You also get quicker spool up for a better torque band. That is why the 3" pipe is better than a 2.5" or 2.25". It is also what I had handy to use ;)

DOHCstunr, I left the heat shield in because that exhaust is right up against the body of the car. I don't want all that heat coming up through the floor boards. I actually had to bend it a bit to get everything in but I'm happy it is there.

Oh, the AWD tank does fit perfectly, the J-pipe is the same as on a 2g eclipse so no point in taking pictures and we'll see about the launch vid. I don't like risking breaking anything on launches, the repairs are too expensive. Maybe on dirt ;)

[kolio]

we'll see about the launch vid. I don't like risking breaking anything on launches, the repairs are too expensive. Maybe on dirt ;)

poop. lol i would be so siked i would probably wreck the drivetrain the first launch.

you got to do at least a small one.

[fuel]

whoa that exhaust looks quite close to the driveshaft in one place, and looks to be resting up against the transfer case casing in another part?? looks like a good conversion though!

[eclipsh]

whoa that exhaust looks quite close to the driveshaft in one place, and looks to be resting up against the transfer case casing in another part?? looks like a good conversion though!

Sorry, I didn't explain the photos very well. Those were the test fitting. In later pictures I think you can see where we took a hammer to the exhaust to get a little clearance at the transfer case and the front of the drive shaft. The only spot it is too close now is the flange which I still need to grind down.

EDIT: Nope, guess you can't see where we banged it in, my bad.

[eclipsh]

So I managed to get my logger working this morning and looked into what the ECU was seeing. I'm getting all my sensor data although the TPS sensor seems to be sending an odd signal. I'll have to look into that more later. The ECU trigger of the fuel pump doesn't seem to do anything right now. I'll check that wiring and the starter wiring at some point and see what I can come up with. I am encouraged by the sensors and data link working though. It means I probably haven't fried the ECU and most of my wiring is right.

[Galanttuner10]

im so stoked now.. i have been thinking about doing this swap for a while and im glad to c it being done

good work and you work quick man i like it and keep it up

Chris

[lonestar22]

i just read this whole post from beginning to end for the first time today. good build you got going there. cant wait to see it moving for the first time. if i were you id either get the 7gb bumper and cut it out or get the JDM DE bumper. no need to cover up that nice intercooler like that

[hk20000]

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/April09035.jpg
If you take out the rectangular bumper stay thing you'd notice that there are 2 perfectly round hole at the headlight bucket. A real VR4 uses those two holes for passing the intercooler piping through.

Not like you have to, but Mitsubishi already made holes for the shortest possible intercooler route I thought you might want to use it. Looks like you are sticking to 2.5" intercooler piping anyway.

Also for the exahaust clearance, on a true VR4 there is another carrier bearing just about 1ft or so down from the transfer case, that bearing pushes the first section of the driveshaft a bit away from the exhaust for clearance.

in a European VR4 swap mod car (I think you can see the swap somewhere in the customs thread) what happened is that they take out the floorpan center section and weld that back to the FWD chassis, so there's provision for the first carrier bearing. Of course the VR4 shaft is used as well. So the VR4 shaft has one more section compared to the GSX shaft.

Good luck.

[Spartan251]

very nice job on this build. I can't wait to see it finished

[PogiGreg]

Regarding the rewiring and the ECU, would it be bette to rewire the whole car with the 1g wire harness? Or rewire it witht he 1g plugs into the 7g existing harness?

[DOHCstunr]

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/April09035.jpg. A real VR4 uses those two holes for passing the intercooler piping through.

this wont be a 7g Galant VR-4 when its done.
It will be a 7g Galant ES-X :borg:

[DOHCstunr]

wow, no room for resonators.
Wonder what your exhaust is going to sound like. Should sound pretty mean... and LOUD!

[Blue Ice]

Awesome job, I'm loving the progress. AWD for my final structural Modification!!

[HOT97ECLIPSEGSX]

:icon_biggrin: You're from Kansas, eh ^^? I work in Lenexa :icon_biggrin:

Love the build!!! Good luck with the setup! Looks like a lot of work from this end.

I happen to fancy myself with the ol' turbo and AWD :icon_twisted:

[eclipsh]

PogiGreg, you can do the harness rewire however you want. If you use the full 1g harness you'll need to use the 1g fuse box as well as a few other components. I think it is easier to just rewire the stock harness. But then I didn't get it working right so maybe you're better off not listening to me ;)


wow, no room for resonators.
Wonder what your exhaust is going to sound like. Should sound pretty mean... and LOUD!

I have one small resonator in the exhaust. I eliminated a second one for space but still have it around if I need to add it back in.

[evil-G-nius]

I, like many others have just now nticed this thread! AMAZING JOB! It makes me feel ambitious and want to all sorts of crazy shit. Then I remember I dont have the skill or tools so...i'll live vicariously through you! LOL
We want sound clips and videos as soon as possible! Congrats on being the first (I think) 7G AWD in the states! 7G FTMFW

[SPD_FRK]

You have done a great job with this build man, it is good to see another Colorado Galant owner on here too! I am curious where you picked up that intercooler from? We sell those here at my work for the Ford IDI Diesel Intercooler upgrade package and it looks practially identical to what we have here.

[kolio]

I, like many others have just now nticed this thread! AMAZING JOB! It makes me feel ambitious and want to all sorts of crazy shit. Then I remember I dont have the skill or tools so...i'll live vicariously through you! LOL
We want sound clips and videos as soon as possible! Congrats on being the first (I think) 7G AWD in the states! 7G FTMFW

he is the first USDM 7G to be AWD

[4-G-rim]

Awsome conversion!

My concern is how close parts of the drivetrain is close to the exhaust. Alot of things move around in the drivetrain and exhaust when driving...even more under heavy load.

Either or..great work on getting the 7g AWD. Very excited to see this beast put power on 4 wheels. :cool:

[evil-G-nius]

he is the first USDM 7G to be AWD

Do you know of any 7G VR4 imported? If not...why is this any different from what I said? Or were you just confirming what I said?

[eclipsh]

I think he was just confirming I'm the first AWD 7g in the US. I'll have to get it done and send off some pics to a tuner mag to see if I can get it in ;)

The exhaust has been altered a bit in comparison to those photos. I just need to grind one area and it should clear quite nicely. I'll also be checking it regularly to see if it rubs after I get the car moving.

Right now I'm stuck out on Kauai snorkeling and running around beaches and tropical rain forests with my wife and parents. I'll get back to the car around the 20th.

[DOHCstunr]

polyurethane exhaust hangers also help keep exhaust movement in check.
mine exhaust is hung entirely by poly hangers from downpipe to tip. it doesn't budge.

[kolio]

Do you know of any 7G VR4 imported? If not...why is this any different from what I said? Or were you just confirming what I said?

rumor was there is one or two somewhere. thats why i just added the USDM

[hk20000]

^ Rumor or not I'm driving one right the hell now....

[kolio]

^ Rumor or not I'm driving one right the hell now....

we know that.

there is suposedly one in texas and another near the west coast

[hk20000]

I found a JDM VR4 on cardomain.... I messaged him but he hasn't replied.

[eclipsh]

Well I'm back from Hawaii and spent a little time on the wiring this morning. I found my mistake in the starter wires and got that resolved. The car cranks over with the keys now. As I'm cranking I'm getting injector duty cycles and all my other signals. I'm still getting odd readings from the throttle position sensor. I'm starting at 7% and going up to 47% at full throttle. I'll have to have someone press on the pedal while I'm under the hood to see if it is mechanical or if the sensor is screwy. I'm betting on the former as the Talon ran fine with this TPS. There will be more to come later in the week as I have some days off.

[phizzalot]

welcome back... good to hear about finding the errors. Can't wait to hear more about the project and how it drives :)

[eclipsh]

Well I spent some time on diagnostics this morning. Turns out the fuel pump isn't turning on. I can artificially jump the relay and get fuel going but even if I'm doing that and cranking the car simply won't fire. Looking at the ECU readings it says it is getting data from all the sensors and sending a signal to the injectors. I've tried switching the spark plug wires around and rotating the CAS 180 to see if that was off and all combinations of that with no results. Once it seemed like the car tried to light up but I couldn't replicate it. It could have been flooded but I can't say for sure.

So now I'm reading up on the wiring and confused as hell about the fuel pump issue. Pin 8 of the Galant ECU triggers the MPI relay for the fuel pump. I rerouted that to pin 56 of the DSM which does the same thing in a 1g yet there is no fuel. Unfortunately I don't have a way to test my ECU since I don't have a stock chip to install and test it in my buddy's 1g.

DOHCstunr if you've got any of your wiring info handy I'd love to compare notes to make sure I didn't screw something up.

EDIT: UPDATE! The car will fire up now but won't stay running. If I leave the starter engaged it'll run for a bit longer but then dies shortly after I let off the key. My bet is that I have a power issue with the ECU. I'll double check all the power supplies and see where I wind up. Those first few exhaust notes sounded like angels singing!

[Galanttuner10]

hmm if its not a wiring issue it could be the timing as thats wut it was on my buddies 89 gt when i had this issue with his car

[eclipsh]

Nah, my logger is losing its signal when the car dies. The ECU is losing power. I was messing with the timing while I was under the hood and it didn't make much difference.

[DOHCstunr]

what rom are you running? Are you running a jackal rom, or a stock MAS image?

As far as wiring goes, I literally just matched up the two ecu pinouts and switched the required wires.
I didn't have to come up with anything fancy or complicated. I just kept it simple.

Mine started right up from day one.
It seems to me that you might possibly have some wires that are out of place.
I hope you tagged and labelled every single wire.
It makes it a LOT easier to check yoru wires, as well as wire in any peripherals down the road.

[eclipsh]

what rom are you running? Are you running a jackal rom, or a stock MAS image?

I am running Jackal with all the sensors in place and functioning properly.

As far as wiring goes, I literally just matched up the two ecu pinouts and switched the required wires.
I didn't have to come up with anything fancy or complicated. I just kept it simple.

Mine started right up from day one.
It seems to me that you might possibly have some wires that are out of place.
I hope you tagged and labelled every single wire.
It makes it a LOT easier to check yoru wires, as well as wire in any peripherals down the road.
I did leave all my wires tagged so that'll make tracking down my wiring slipup easier. I am sure it is just a power issue I created by pulling so many other wires out when I eliminated the A/T components. I'll dig through this morning and see what I can come up with.

[DOHCstunr]

yeah I had the benifit of being both manual, and already equipped with distributorless and knock sensor equipped in my facktory harness.
so i literally didn't have to add any wires.

you have the resistor pack wired into the injectors correct?

[eclipsh]

Yup, the resistor pack is in there. I actually just pulled the whole wiring harness back out and I'm going over it again. Jeff from Keydiver PMed me on DSMTuners and let me know that pin 13 does need to see voltage from the fuel pump and that I can just send the signal from the MPI relay. I tried a quick fix for that in the car but it didn't make a difference. I'm also still only seeing 2.8v at the TPS which I'm fairly certain should be seeing 5v. So I'm going over all the wires again, cleaning up a few areas and stuffing the harness back in again when I'm done.

[eclipsh]

Well I went over and tested all the wires, moved the power supply for Pin 110 to IGN1 instead of Start and correctly wired Pin 13, then reinstalled the harness. The car will run a bit longer now that the ECU is getting power consistently but I'm still only getting 2.8v to the TPS and also the MAP sensor. Both of these are powered by Pin 23 of the ECU which should be sending 5v. I checked at the ECU and of course I get the same 2.8v. To me that says I probably have a problem within my ECU, possibly my capacitor replacement gone wrong. I think I'll be sending the ECU out for diagnostics and possible repair tomorrow.

[DOHCstunr]

is your tps, iat, map, coolant temp sensor, and um...... i think thats it,

are they grounded to the "sensors ground" pin on the ecu?

[eclipsh]

You know, I'm not sure. I'd have to dig through the harness again or go do a quick test come morning.

[DOHCstunr]

i think that was the only problem I came across other than the cooling fans when I first started up after my swap.

[eclipsh]

Well I ran out and tested pin 24, the sensor ground and it does not ground out to the chassis. I also tested the ground for the IAT and TPS and they do not ground out to the chassis. Looks like I didn't screw that one up :)

DOHCstunr, which wire did you run your fans off of or did you use a switch? I wired mine to the two wire coolant temp sensor and they came on as soon as the key turned.

[DOHCstunr]

Well I ran out and tested pin 24, the sensor ground and it does not ground out to the chassis. I also tested the ground for the IAT and TPS and they do not ground out to the chassis. Looks like I didn't screw that one up :)

DOHCstunr, which wire did you run your fans off of or did you use a switch? I wired mine to the two wire coolant temp sensor and they came on as soon as the key turned.
i will take a pic and try to draw up a diagram for you tomorrow when I wake up.

[Blue Ice]

It might just simply be the ECU, when i was having all my problems with my swap , the car would crank and crank, but never turn over. turned out it was a bad ecu. Does your check engine light come on before you ever try to crank it? it should come on and then turn off after a couple of seconds if you put it into the accessory switch. if it never comes on, then you have a bad ecu.

You're doing a lot of the same things i did, rig the fuel pump, pull the harness, screw with the timing and injectors.

you'r basically using a 1g engine with a 1g ecu, so the Magnus 1g in a 2g setup won't apply.

If it's not the Ecu, do you have any boost leaks, the car won't stay running if you have a huge leak, or don't have everything hooked up.

[DOHCstunr]

If it's not the Ecu, do you have any boost leaks, the car won't stay running if you have a huge leak, or don't have everything hooked up.

He's running the same ECU I am. Speed Density via DS-MAP/ Jackal.

No mas, and leaks have zero effect on a/f ratio.


From what I read, he is using the same ecu that was working flawlessly in his Talon before he bought the galant.

[eclipsh]

Nope, the ECU that was in my 1g Talon went with it. I have a flawless 2g EPROM ECU from the 95 donor that I'm selling. The 1g EPROM ECU that was in the Galant and is now out to be repaired came out of the junkyard the same time as the Galant. It is untested and may very well be the problem. I should find out sometime this week.

Thanks again for all the help and input guys, it makes a big difference.

[eclipsh]

Well I got some info back on my ECU from Steve on DSM Tuners. He says that he's seeing +5v from pin 23 when he bench tests the ECU. He also says the corrosion on the board is very bad so it will take a lot of cleaning (read $150 repair bill). Thankfully I just sold my 2g EPROM ECU so that'll pay for my 1g ecu repair.

That also tells me I have some sort of wiring issue. Thankfully I did find a useful article on automotive electrical diagnostics (http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/how_to/4314662.html?page=1) this morning. I'll do what I can without the ECU here and see what else I can find when it gets back.

[eclipsh]

Well I got some more work done today. I started out by checking the voltages and grounds going to the ECU connectors. Everything looked golden so I went ahead and pulled the harness out again. I can pull it in less than five minutes now.

I laid the harness out on my garage floor and began by testing for connections to pin 23, the +5v sensor supply. Thanks to some reused Galant components I wired the ISC motor power supply to pin 23 instead of a 12v supply from the MPI relay like I should have. So I fixed that and checked all my sensor grounds to make sure they were only going to ECU pin 24 and checked the resistance on the wires. After that I improved the grounding to the CAS and coils and moved a few wires around to make the harness neater inside the bay. Now it is back in and should be ready to test as soon as my ECU gets back to me in the mail.

[eclipsh]

Minor update with video. This site won't let me embed it, or I just can't figure out how, so just follow the link.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/th_MOV09649.jpg (http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/?action=view&current=MOV09649.flv)

Oh and I hooked the transmission cooler in as the power steering cooler too. I also ground down the exhaust flange to clear the drive shaft and worked on the rear brakes. Unfortunately I'm going to have to go get some rebuilt rear calipers as the bleeders just won't come out.

[DOHCstunr]

Excellent Nick!
glad to see you got her running again. so is your block basically stock?

if it is,
I'd like to be able to compare our tables once you get back to tuning. Undoubtedly our v.e. will be different, but they ought to have similarities that should give us clues to getting out tunes on point.

[kolio]

GREAT WORK! now we need some vids of wheels spinning!

[eclipsh]

Excellent Nick!
glad to see you got her running again. so is your block basically stock?

if it is,
I'd like to be able to compare our tables once you get back to tuning. Undoubtedly our v.e. will be different, but they ought to have similarities that should give us clues to getting out tunes on point.

As far as I know the block is stock. The donor came with a E3 manifold and 16G setup so that is what is on it now. I reused my FIC 780cc injectors. I'll have to do a fair amount of retuning since I bumped up in compression and have a slightly bigger turbo than my old s16g. Unfortunately I couldn't tell what fuel pump I got in the deal as there were no visible markings on it. :orangeconfused: Not knowing how much fuel I can push should make tuning interesting. :102::063:


GREAT WORK! now we need some vids of wheels spinning!

I promise I'll get video of it driving once I get the car registered. That'll have to wait until the new brakes are on, new windshield is in, a fuel line issue is fixed and the interior is detailed and reassembled. In short, it'll be a while. I"ll be thrilled if it is on the road this month.

[skrap]

wow im just speachless and EXTREAMLY jelous.......

[akamikeymo]

That's awesome Nick. I wish I could see it in person.

[the_boogiman]

he is the first USDM 7G to be AWD

Definitely an awesome job on the conversion. Massive props. Not the first though. There's myself and I've heard of one more somewhere.

[eclipsh]

Definitely an awesome job on the conversion. Massive props. Not the first though. There's myself and I've heard of one more somewhere.

That's cool. I'm just happy to have done it :thumb: I'm curious how you handled the conversion. What did you do for the drive shaft(s)?

I got the new rear calipers in last night, stuck my speed bleeders in and bled 'em out. After that I had a little brake fluid under the front tires so I had to move the car... around the subdivision a couple times :bouncy: (Private roads so no tags = ok). So first impresssions = totally awesome. The exhaust is a little louder than I'm after but very deep. I couldn't really get on it since I haven't been able to tune yet. I could build a couple psi and then it'd buck on me. I'll ditch my old maps as soon as I get it street legal and start tuning.

Oh, I also double checked the exhaust to drive shaft clearance. I should be good. If I really smacked the driver's side of the exhaust right by the center flange I could make it tap the drive shaft but it stayed clear with firm nudges. I'll keep checking it regularly though just to be sure.

[Spartan251]

Awsome work!!! I am very jealous of your car. Keep up the good work and post another vid once its on the road

[DOHCstunr]

Definitely an awesome job on the conversion. Massive props. Not the first though. There's myself and I've heard of one more somewhere.

he's the first as far as i'm concerned. As i don't recall you ever posting pics.

[Galant306m]

hahaha i agree with john. I thought he was the first this whole time though. i know a couple people have tried but haven't finished it.

[kolio]

Definitely an awesome job on the conversion. Massive props. Not the first though. There's myself and I've heard of one more somewhere.

ur AWD? why you no post? pics! vids!

[phizzalot]

Very Nice to see you pull it off eclipsh... I wonder how wide you can go with rims ... I would luv to see some beefy tire setup on a 7g, or something with a deeeep lip....

[eclipsh]

Very Nice to see you pull it off eclipsh... I wonder how wide you can go with rims ... I would luv to see some beefy tire setup on a 7g, or something with a deeeep lip....

Thanks :) Right now I've got my summer wheels on, Evo 8 Enkie's with 245/40-17 Kumho SPT rubber. There is very little in the way of clearance for them and they are as wide as I'd want to go. I went too far towards track car with my 1g and made it so my wife didn't like riding in it (and never made it to a road course, just auto-x!) I need to strike more of a balance on this project and just make a fast street car which also includes not running super-wide, low-profile tires.

[DOHCstunr]

Thanks :) Right now I've got my summer wheels on, Evo 8 Enkie's with 245/40-17 Kumho SPT rubber. There is very little in the way of clearance for them and they are as wide as I'd want to go. I went too far towards track car with my 1g and made it so my wife didn't like riding in it (and never made it to a road course, just auto-x!) I need to strike more of a balance on this project and just make a fast street car which also includes not running super-wide, low-profile tires.

NICE on the 245. I'm running evo9 enkie with 235/40/17 Goodyear Eagle F1, and I LOOOOOOOOVE the grip. Never felt so confident with my handling, and the ride is the best its ever been.

[eclipsh]

NICE on the 245. I'm running evo9 enkie with 235/40/17 Goodyear Eagle F1, and I LOOOOOOOOVE the grip. Never felt so confident with my handling, and the ride is the best its ever been.

It is all about wearing the right shoes. :rockon: My stock 1g swirlies have a set of 205/55-16 Nitto SN1 snow tires that are amazing in the winter too. Can you say doughnuts? ;) That'll be an interesting experience with the longer wheel base and new suspension geometries. I'm very excited to see how it really handles.

[phizzalot]

Very nice... Ive been thru the Yokohama Advan235/40/17, Sumitohmo 235/40/r17, and currently Continental Contact Pro 245/40/r17 on my Evo9, and each have a different feel and driving experience to them.

I'am sure the the wider rubber on your awd 7g will truly bring out the power and response of the swap and motor...

I've got some 205/40/17 on my 7g now, which are a nice change from my previous sunflower chromez lol..

I think i will be in the market for some awd parts after hearing your satisfaction of the swap... Can't wait for some rolling pics or vids...

[eclipsh]

It's been a while, time for some updates.

This morning I finally finished repairing my fuel pump sending unit which the previous owner cut off. I ended up cutting the sender off the Galant unit and using a 5/16 double compression fitting from the hardware store to splice them together. At idle there are no leaks so I think I'm good to go on that front.

After that I got around to cutting the plastic bumper up a bit so it would fit around the FMIC and then attached the bumper cover and installed the whole set. It is still fugly and missing the lower section of the bumper cover but it is on there and I have at least some crash protection.

Right now I'm taking a lunch break, drinking a beer and a nice man in my garage is putting a new windshield into the Galant. He just called me out to tell me there was a minor defect in the glass. Turns out it is two tiny dots in the tinted section at the top. They offered to get a perfect one or knock $50 off the price. I chose the latter.

I have a set of prothane bushings for the rear end headed my way as well as a new JAW 1.041 unit. My 1.04 bit the dust and won't talk to my computer. On the plus side the 1.041 will come with a third display for me and the option of incorporating an EGT sensor. I'll need to add some wires to the harness again but it'll be worth it. I'm just not sure where I'll add the third display at this point.

Aside from that, most of the interior is back in and cleaned. I still need to take a steam cleaner to the seats but I already hit the carpet with some cleaner and a scrub brush. Not quite good as new but clean enough for me.

I have a few wiring issues that still have to be resolved. I don't have the fans connected yet and for some reason my tach isn't working with the rewire I did. Of course my priority is the fans. DOHCStunr if you can recall how you wired yours I'd love to copy you. Otherwise I'm going to pick up a 1g radiator temp sensor and plumb it into the system to trigger the fans.

That is it for now. I'll be sure to post up more as the project comes closer to hitting the road. Thanks again for reading and for all your support.

[mko]

Does the 1g radiator fit our cars or the lower mounts need to be relocated?

[DOHCstunr]

as for the Tach, Seth98est had this exact same problem and to be honest I don't think he ever corrected it.

I believe it has something to do with the difference between distributor and distributorless.

My car is a GS and originally it already had distributorless ignition. I never had to add or change any of the wires for the coil packs/transistor pack.
My tach worked from day one.

Perhaps the instrument cluster between the GS and the rest are different, maybe due to an inverted signal, idk.



I had problems with my Speedometer for years not working, eventually I fixed it lol. If you have any issues with that, just let me know.

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/2gcoolingfan.html
I essentially took this idea and modified it to use the 1g coolant temp switch to ground the radiator high circuit(instead of a toggle switch to bridge the connections)
I see no point in using the radiator low. and have never overheated as a result of this mod.

[eclipsh]

I pulled out to spin the car around for room to work on bushings and noticed the speedo isn't working. What'd you do to fix it?

I should get my 1g fan switch in at the Zone today. I'll find a place to plumb it in and get that working on my next day off.

[eclipsh]

Well I've replaced the left rear knuckle bushing that was blown out with a new urethane one. Definitely a PITA to install. I think I'll wait on the rest. I've got my fan switch. Unfortunately it is a metric 14x1.5 thread and I don't have a tap that size nor did the hardware store. I'll have to run around and see if I can find one after I figure out how I'm installing the sensor.

Tomorrow is the big day for getting my salvage title. I'll be trailering the car down across the border to New Mexico where I bought it, weighing it and then sitting in their sorry-excuse-for-a-DMV for hours. Wish me luck.

[Blue Ice]

No tach here either. I've tried some different ideas, even went and got a tach out of a 1g to see what the difference was. I'm sure it does have something to do with the signal being inverted. Plus the way the back side of the gauge cluster runs wires. I was trying to mess with that and took out the ground screw of the tach. Now i get the tach to sit at 1000 rpms and not move at all, but everynow and then it'll shoot down past 0!

Good luck at the DMV, i do know it's usually better to go at the beginning of a month, rather than the end with all the procrastonators

[eclipsh]

If I have time today I may pull my gauge cluster and see if I can modify the setup enough to get the 2g DSM electronics into it. I looked into it before and they were pretty different but I hadn't really looked at hybridizing them. I'll be sure to post up my results.

[eclipsh]

I pulled the guage cluster and there is no way the two will ever be compatible. I'll have to see what I can work out to get the ones I have functioning.

I also took the car down to the New Mexico DMV today. Man are they awful! I won't bore you with details just know they suck more balls than a porn star and not in a fun way.

I also got to weigh the Galant. As it sits with 1/4 tank of gas it comes in at 3120 lbs. That is less than the Talon I used as a donor and no weight loss program.

Thanks to the idiots at the DMV, who have no clue what customer service is, I don't have the salvage title yet. I'll have a few more hoops to jump through before that is done.

I still have a few other things on my to-do list. So far:

Get gauges working
Find out why the TPS is reading 12%-8x% rather than 10-100 and fix it.
Build new WBO2 controller and get it in.
Get a shift boot and surround.
Get radiator fans working.
I did take a buddy out for a spin and showed it off at the salvage yard where I bought it. They were definitely liking the conversion and impressed that almost all of it was done in my garage.

I am also thinking I need to make a new exhaust sooner rather than later. I heard an odd rubbing sound going around a corner tonight and suspect it may have been the drive shaft and exhaust meeting. I think things might shift around enough that they can touch. I think 2.5" through the tunnel and reusing the 3" bends to a good muffler will be the way to go. As always I'll keep you updated.

[phizzalot]

Very nice.. I think the weight is surprising, Mainly becasue a quick google puts a 7th Gen around 3980 lbs. An evo9 is around 2,888–3,285 lb.. I wonder how much weight can be removed ie rear bumper bar/spare tire/rear seats/ac..

Nice work eclipsh, what type of showing of did you do? launches? 360's? or a myabe a quick burnout? Just wanted to hear about what this setup is going thru so far :)

[eclipsh]

Very nice.. I think the weight is surprising, Mainly becasue a quick google puts a 7th Gen around 3980 lbs. An evo9 is around 2,888–3,285 lb.. I wonder how much weight can be removed ie rear bumper bar/spare tire/rear seats/ac..

Nice work eclipsh, what type of showing of did you do? launches? 360's? or a myabe a quick burnout? Just wanted to hear about what this setup is going thru so far :)

Uh... 2755 lbs actually. But 3980 was close ;) http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com/1994-to-1998-mitsubishi-galant-8.htm

So about a 400lb weight gain. I'd say it is worth the trade. Oh and that was with the spair in too.

For the showing I just showed the salvage guys while it was on the trailer and fired it up. For my buddy just some basic laps around the subdivision. It isn't tuned enough for burnouts yet ;)

[seth98esT]

I had my 98 FWD w/4g63t swap weighed at a truck stop once and it pushed the scales at about 31xxlbs if I remember correctly.

[hk20000]

Just for reference a 7G VR4 weighs at 3315lb... With the complications of 4WS is the most likely reason for the weight increase from ur conversion. the 6A motor is only heavier than the 4G by a feather.

[eclipsh]

Got the TPS issue more or less resolved this morning. Turned out the stop under the gas pedal was the problem. I cut the section off that rises up above the carpet and now I see 12%-98% throttle. I'm still missing 4% but even without the cable moving the throttle I get those readings so it is probably the sensor at that point.

[DOHCstunr]

Got the TPS issue more or less resolved this morning. Turned out the stop under the gas pedal was the problem. I cut the section off that rises up above the carpet and now I see 12%-98% throttle. I'm still missing 4% but even without the cable moving the throttle I get those readings so it is probably the sensor at that point.

just an FYI the 2g non cruise cable will work

[eclipsh]

If I can I plan to use the cruise since this is going to be my family's road trip car.

On a completely different note, the Colorado DMV once again proved themselves better organized than the NM DMV. I gave them a call this morning to see if I could get temp tags for the Galant. After listening to my situation they sold me a set of 60 day tags for $6.20. So the Galant made it's first debut on public streets this afternoon. It definitely needs some tuning as the car was running pretty lean. In the mean time I'm poking around and working on getting the speedometer functional. I have confirmed that I have a good connection between the sending unit and the gauge cluster as well as a good connection within the cluster. Oddly enough I'm seeing a steady 4.5v going to the speedo. I am off to do some more diagnostics now. DOHCStunr did give me some advice as to what may be wrong but I'm going to dig around a bit before hacking at my wiring. Wish me luck!

[DOHCstunr]

If I can I plan to use the cruise since this is going to be my family's road trip car.

On a completely different note, the Colorado DMV once again proved themselves better organized than the NM DMV. I gave them a call this morning to see if I could get temp tags for the Galant. After listening to my situation they sold me a set of 60 day tags for $6.20. So the Galant made it's first debut on public streets this afternoon. It definitely needs some tuning as the car was running pretty lean. In the mean time I'm poking around and working on getting the speedometer functional. I have confirmed that I have a good connection between the sending unit and the gauge cluster as well as a good connection within the cluster. Oddly enough I'm seeing a steady 4.5v going to the speedo. I am off to do some more diagnostics now. DOHCStunr did give me some advice as to what may be wrong but I'm going to dig around a bit before hacking at my wiring. Wish me luck!
remember, the speedo is all about frequency, not voltage.

if you moved the speedo half a tic forward there wouldn't be any voltage i imagine.

[eclipsh]

remember, the speedo is all about frequency, not voltage.

if you moved the speedo half a tic forward there wouldn't be any voltage i imagine.

In fact you were right. I went through all the diagnostics for a 2g DSM speedo system and checked everything. I also switched back to the M/T speedo sensor from the Talon. After doing some diagnostics and confirming that everything was working ok I gave up for the day and drove to work. That is when the speedo randomly started working. It was very jerky and slow to respond though. So this morning I pulled the speedo plug off the tranny and looked at the connection. The tongues inside each of the connectors were pretty depressed so I pulled them out of the harness and bent the tongues back out to make better contact. I'll see if that resolves the problem.

I was in contact with Alan To regarding my bad JAW 1.041 unit. I shipped it back to him on Monday and will get a new kit sent to me when he gets mine.

I also have a set of Koni Sport shocks and Ground Control coilovers on their way. I found a complete set used on DSM Tuners. They have the hats and everything. It is exactly what I was after, a $1k+ suspension slightly used for $450 shipped. Right now the rear tires are rubbing the fenders on big bumps due to the FWD shocks in the rear lowering it slightly. It'll be good to get it raised back up to factory height and get my alignment done too.

I'm still waiting to be able to tune but I've been driving the car around for a while. I am absolutely loving it. All the work was definitely worth while. I can't wait to get it tuned, get the new suspension under it and really let loose.

[Spartan251]

[QUOTE=eclipsh;525145]

I also have a set of Koni Sport shocks and Ground Control coilovers on their way. I found a complete set used on DSM Tuners. They have the hats and everything. It is exactly what I was after, a $1k+ suspension slightly used for $450 shipped.
[QUOTE=eclipsh;525145]


That is a killer deal on that suspension setup. Koni and Eibach make a great pair on our cars. A buddy of mine had a 94 GS with Koni and Eibach Sport springs. It rode like a dream!

[SPD_FRK]

You have done a great job on this man. Glad to see the DMV gave you a break, I have had my share of fun wth them and have yet to deal with them on my Galant.

It would be really cool if you, Ivory8G and myself could all meet up somewhere in the middle for some fun...I'll be dead last of course lol.

[eclipsh]

Took the car down to an Albuquerque DSM club meet this weekend and drove up Sandia Crest road with the guys. The Koni's were great and the car handled wonderfully. I did have some overheating issues though. I don't have a problem normally so I suspect it was just the heat and long climb. With the car tuned in right and a little duct work I think that'll disappear.

A few other kinks: my A/C doesn't work right yet. I need to rewire the system as the dash button doesn't trip the A/C clutch right now. When I ran a jumper cable to the clutch the lines didn't cool down so I think it needs to be charged too. Just one more wiring project to tackle. Should've just gone with the 2g harness and an Evo ECU but I'll make it work.

[phizzalot]

That sounds great eclipsh...If I find a good deal on some rear parts I may not be able to stop myself from buying them, now that I see yours up and running :)

[Galanttuner10]

That sounds great eclipsh...If I find a good deal on some rear parts I may not be able to stop myself from buying them, now that I see yours up and running :)

X2

my buddy has a 95 shell hell give me for 400 with the whole rear end but im broke, but no1 wants it so i think next spring this will be my next endeavor

[eclipsh]

I've had a few requests for the wiring I used. Here's what I've got for notes:

1g ECU : Galant ECU

101 : 13
102 : 12
103 : 60
104 : 26
105 : Custom or N/A (Wastegate Solenoid)
106 : 26
107 : 25
108 : 51
109 : Custom (Tach) - Never got this working

51 : 1
52 : 14
53 : 6
54 : Custom - coil pack
55 : Custom - coil pack
56 : 8
57 : Didn't use = Fuel solenoid
58 : 4
59 : 17
60 : 2
61 : 15
62 : 9
63 : ? (MPI - didn't write this down, sorry)
64 : 36
65 : 22
66 : ? MPI
67 : 18
68 : 5

1 : 42
2 : 43
3 : N/A
4 : Custom (O2 Sensor)
5 : 37
6 : 19
7 : 45
8 : 52
9 : Custom - knock sensor
10 : 70
11 : N/A - ABS on 1g ECU
12 : 34
13 : Didn't write down, fuel pump
14 : 67
15 : 53
16 : 65
17 : 72
18 : 66
19 : TPS - custom
20 : 63
21 : Custom - CAS
22 : Custom - TDC
23 : 61
24 : 72

Of course this will only work with OBD 1 7G and 1g turbo ECU's.

[eclipsh]

Well I got the tach in the Galant working today. I decided I want to use the LED displays from the JAW as a HUD unit (mirror off the windshield). I gave using the tach out of the Turbo DSM another shot and it works. I must have had some wires backwards last time. So I combined the face plate from the Galant cluster with the electronics of the Talon tach. The bolt holes on the rear of the gauge cluster are not the same for the electronics so I had to custom mount the electronics and then run jumper wires to the correct holes. I used the face plate (#'s) off the Galant too. I double checked the RPMs on the Tach VS my logger and it is dead on. The redline is different but it works :)

[Spartan251]

post up some pics of that cluster. HUD unit in a g would be interesting.

[eclipsh]

Wow, been a while. I haven't put any work into the HUD system, I've been too busy with school and work this fall. Last Friday I had a surprise while my wife and I were heading home from my parent's house. Something seized with a horrible metallic screech while I was going 65mph. I dove for the side of the road and killed the engine. After digging through my glove box for a flashlight I ducked my head under the car to see if I still had a drive shaft and to look for puddles. Everything looked normal. Thinking that it might be the engine I grabbed a wrench from the trunk and pulled my timing belt cover. The belt looked fine. A quick crank of the ignition and the engine fired right up, happy as could be. I gingerly put the car in reverse and backed further off the highway, turned the heater back on and called my parents to come pick us up.

The next morning I drove the pickup my parents had lent us the night before down to Uhaul to get a car transport. A few hours later the Galant was up on stands in my garage. I started out with draining the rear diff since memory indicated the noise had come from that direction. No shrapnel and plenty of fluid. From there I moved up to the transfer case. The drain plug was wet. I pulled it out and watched as a slow trickle of oil fell into my drain pan. A few seconds later something heavy thunked it's way into the pan. Turns out the plug never got tightened up all the way or worked its way out and let all the oil go. My transfer case was toast.

Thankfully I got a spare when I swapped my 1g DSM for the 2g donor so I set about pulling the transfer case out and installing the new one. While I had the g up on stands with the exhaust and drive shaft out I spent some time bending the heat shields further out of the way and grinding the center flange on the exhaust down. The result is that I now have a bit more clearance in the tunnel.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/carstuff025.jpg

Turns out it was probably a good thing the t-case went. As I was poking around I also found that both front wheel bearings and a couple ball joints were in bad shape. In my rush to get the car build I didn't realize the condition they were in. I'd seen a torn boot but forgot to check for play. It was bad enough I decided not to drive the car until everything was replaced.

I decided I'd give Mitsubishi a call to see if I could have the ball joint recall performed on my g. As it turns out the Galant had the ball joint recall service back in '01 so I was out of luck. However, when I built the car this spring I switched the knuckles and control arms from the Talon to the Galant and vice versa so I could keep my 5 lug hubs and wheels. I decided to go check my donor Talon and see how the ball joints on it were. They were in great shape, just one little nick in a dust boot that doesn't go all the way through. So I pulled the knuckles/arms off the Talon and with a few blows from a 3lb hammer knocked the hubs out. I should have my new hubs any day now and will put the front end of my car back together as soon as they show up.

I should also mention that the drive shaft held up great as did the custom mount. I couldn't see any signs of damage to either one.

[skrap]

Im glad to hear that it wasnt any major damage!!!! I would love to eventually pull this off. Your build thread made this seem very easy. IYO how difficult was this build? Also you should make some videos of you driving inside the car and also a vid of you driving down the street with the camera outside the car!!!

[beam514]

how the hell did I miss this build?

good work! sucks about the diff. but at least you had a spare

[DOHCstunr]

Sprinkle a little DSM pixie dust on a 7g and boom you lose a transfer case. Oh well, at least it was a simple fix.

Yeah i was under my car a while back and just took out the heat shields all together. I didn't really see a point in keeping them.

Needs more pics! lol.

[Shadow19]

Man im so intersted in this its not even funny.. I wish the JY had a donor 2g AWD!

[eclipsh]

Rating the difficulty... Have you ever pulled an engine/transmission before? Ever made your own parts? About that hard ;) Mechanically it wasn't bad. Electrically... If I were to try this again I'd probably go with an OBDII car and use the whole 2g turbo front harness with a flashable ECU (late 2g ECU or Evo). It'd save a ton of work.

More pictures? What would you like? The car is up on stands so I can get to everything right now.

Speaking of that DSM pixie dust, I also had to repalce the slave cylinder this fall. Master should be next to go.

I'll try to get some engine bay pics up this weekend I've been working on cleaning up the harness over the fall too. I moved the battery into the trunk.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/5/2/4/4/3/battery_relocation_galant.jpg

That little gray door has a breaker behind it on the positive cable. When I get around to doing my fuel pump rewire it'll be a breeze :)

Here's a shot of my 245 summer tire(s) which are now tucked away under my garage stairs. Had to put the snows on mid October.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/5/2/4/4/3/left_rear.jpg

[DOHCstunr]

245's eh? man i want.
what wheels are those on?
do they stick out from the wheel well at all?

[phizzalot]

Can we get a pic of the gauge cluster? Iam not sure if you have the 2g eclipse cluster modded to fit or not?

Also how is the rear subframe mounts holding up? Iam just curious why some would go with those solid aluminum ones off of ebay...

[Galant306m]

Can we get a pic of the gauge cluster? Iam not sure if you have the 2g eclipse cluster modded to fit or not?

Also how is the rear subframe mounts holding up? Iam just curious why some would go with those solid aluminum ones off of ebay...

The solid aluminum subframe mounts help A LOT, i know all of the SHO guys run them with the poly motor mount just keeps everything in place better then the shitty rubber ones, and you dont have to worry about your subframe mounts going bad (as much) with the aluminum ones. I think they just help with wheel hop but i might be wrong.

[eclipsh]

The 245 tires are on Evo 8 wheels. They barely tuck and with the 7" springs set as high as they go on my perches I still get occasional rubbing in the rear right where the top of the rear bumper bolts to the unibody. I'm planning on buying 9" hypercoil springs when my budget allows so I can set my ride height a little higher to avoid rubbing and get a little more clearance for curbs etc.

The gauge cluster is a stock Galant cluster just using the electronics for the 2g DSM tach so it recognizes the coilpack signal. I'm using the Galant faceplate because it fit. It does read correctly with the homologation. Unfortunately all this means I don't have an oil pressure gauge, just a dummy light but the wiring isn't there for the gauge anyway. I might run something for it in the future. I still need to find another way to mount my digital displays for boost etc. since the tach is now in the location they once used.

No issues with the rear subframe so far. Since this is my D/D I don't plan on putting too much metal in the bushings.

[skrap]

I have pulled a motor and trans before.. I havent made my own parts yet but Im sure I could figure it out... I know how to weld and do exhausts and shit. Also I am currently rebuilding my sohc 4g64 motor. That is going to be my test for myself. If I can sucessfully rebuild the motor with no problems then I will start collecting parts to tackle this project. Have you ever driven an awd eclipse/talon? If so do you think the galant is worht doing this. I mean is there more of a benificial output from the G versus the awd eclipses? I know that it will make the G heavier. I just want to know that this thing is going to be a beast before I go and put all of the hard work and effort in... I know its your DD but you gota be playing with it every now and then...

[eclipsh]

I owned a 90 Talon AWD for eight years and was constantly modifying it. I never spent much time driving a 2g, just the time I drove my donor car until I started ripping it apart (not much).

Is it worth it? The body on the Galant seems to flex more than my 1g did. The Galants' suspension has much better road manners. In the end it'd be hard to say which would outperfomr the other.

I did this because I wanted a 4-door AWD DSM and don't have the money to buy/mod an Evo. If I did I probalby wouldn't have built this. My wife and I have our first baby due at the end of January. Keeping my 2-door didn't make sense. It also didn't have enough headroom for my 6'4" self.

As far as performance 2g vs 7g awd, the only real difference should be wheel base and possibly rigidity. They weigh in about the same (3100 lbs), have the same suspension and same drivetrain. The 7g won't turn as sharp but will have better straight-line stability (longer wheel base).

If 4 doors don't matter, I'd say just get the 1g/2g DSM and be done with it.

[Shadow19]

I owned a 90 Talon AWD for eight years and was constantly modifying it. I never spent much time driving a 2g, just the time I drove my donor car until I started ripping it apart (not much).

Is it worth it? The body on the Galant seems to flex more than my 1g did. The Galants' suspension has much better road manners. In the end it'd be hard to say which would outperfomr the other.

I did this because I wanted a 4-door AWD DSM and don't have the money to buy/mod an Evo. If I did I probalby wouldn't have built this. My wife and I have our first baby due at the end of January. Keeping my 2-door didn't make sense. It also didn't have enough headroom for my 6'4" self.

As far as performance 2g vs 7g awd, the only real difference should be wheel base and possibly rigidity. They weigh in about the same (3100 lbs), have the same suspension and same drivetrain. The 7g won't turn as sharp but will have better straight-line stability (longer wheel base).

If 4 doors don't matter, I'd say just get the 1g/2g DSM and be done with it.

Not everyone owns a 7g AWD ;-)... Who would expect to roll up on a 4 door galant and get their ass handed to them? NOBODY! Who would roll up on a eclipse and expect to get their ass handed to them? Alot more than nobody! LOL.. Anyways.. I wouldnt trade my 7g for a 2g period. I HATE a 2g. Im so crunched up in my g/f's 2g turbo when i drive it its not funny. My hip literally gets a cramp and it hurts like a bitch and im only 6'1''... Besides. If i go for a 2 door hatch id want one a HELL of alot lighter than a 2g or 1g. And since honda is the only option for lightweight hatch its not gonna happen.

[remarque]

The 3g Mirage and Dodge colt are light weight and both come as a hatch, dont tell me you forgot about those. Plus the 4g63 is a direct swap.

[eclipsh]

Well I've been tinkering with the car some more over my winter break from school. I picked up a beat up 7gb front cover and filler panel for $10 at the you-pull as a test piece. I've cut into it and added a few things as you can see below. It is ugly as sin right now but I think the design works. I just need a new cover & filler panel to do it up right (anyone got a spare?).

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/Car006-1.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/Car007-1.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/Car008-1.jpg

I'll fill the upper half with the same expanded steel mesh when I get a chance. I'm thinking I'll paint both of them an aluminum color or chrome to match the trim around the windows and my wheels.

I also found a nice new home for my LED Display cluster and added a dimmer control on the face.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/Car003-1.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/Car004-1.jpg

I relocated the hazard and defroster switches to the blank areas next to the cruise control. It took a little customizing as they aren't the same size but I got them to work.


Here is the latest and greatest on my engine bay. You can see where I added the temp switch on top of the t-stat housing.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/Car010.jpg

Any thoughts on the bumper cover? I'm not sold on the bolts going through the face. I'd like to make it cleaner but I don't know how else I can mount the mesh sturdily.

Oh, I've also got a new clutch master cylinder going in today. It went out as expected. Should have put it in with the new slave and saved some hassle. I also picked up an Evo 9 fuel pump for $30 shipped that should be here soon. I'll do my fuel pump rewire when it goes in. Then I can crank the boost up and retune for 20psi instead of the 12 I'm running now. Should be lots of fun!

[Galanttuner10]

i demand videos at once!!!!! great work keep it up

[Galant306m]

thats display is awesome you have afr and what are the other two?

[Shadow19]

thats display is awesome you have afr and what are the other two?

x2. That is pretty bad ass dude. Think you can make a tut?

[Stewi]

I am so surprised I hav never noticed this thread. I just tore thru the whole thread and I must say great work man. I know you must be extremely happy and at the same time excited that this all worked out. Congrats on your creation, best of luck.

[eclipsh]

Thanks :) The displays are (left to right) boost (positive pressure only), EGT (needs a probe and wiring), and of course the AFR. They are all being fed by my JAW unit.

To make it I took a sheet of bass wood, shaped it to fit the opening, cut the holes out for the displays, mounted them with hot glue and added the potentiometer for adjusting brightness. The plastic sheeting is some stuff I picked up at the hardware store.

[Shadow19]

Thanks :) The displays are (left to right) boost (positive pressure only), EGT (needs a probe and wiring), and of course the AFR. They are all being fed by my JAW unit.

To make it I took a sheet of bass wood, shaped it to fit the opening, cut the holes out for the displays, mounted them with hot glue and added the potentiometer for adjusting brightness. The plastic sheeting is some stuff I picked up at the hardware store.

That is an awesome job. Hell its an awesome job on the whole entire car.

[eclipsh]

So any thoughts on the front bumper cover?

[Shadow19]

So any thoughts on the front bumper cover?

Yea... TBH i dont like it... the grilles between the headlights need to stay and u need to fiberglass the mesh in the front to get rid of the bolts. This is kind of hard to explain but this is what they used when they sent my body kit that had spots for mesh. Its damn near the same flimsy metal shit thats used in the thin paper binder things. You know where you have to fold the tabs back and shit.. .if you can find soemthing like that and mount it behind the bumper then just use your skills to make it work that way it would look better.

[Galant306m]

Thanks :) The displays are (left to right) boost (positive pressure only), EGT (needs a probe and wiring), and of course the AFR. They are all being fed by my JAW unit.

To make it I took a sheet of bass wood, shaped it to fit the opening, cut the holes out for the displays, mounted them with hot glue and added the potentiometer for adjusting brightness. The plastic sheeting is some stuff I picked up at the hardware store.

i figured it was those three but when i seen the egt one at like 4800 im like hmm thats not egt and figured if the other one was boost i would be reading negative lol so i got all confused. Looks awesome though.

Also i agree with stewi you did some awesome work now we just need to see some vids of some awd launching.

[seth98esT]

The gauge cluster is a stock Galant cluster just using the electronics for the 2g DSM tach so it recognizes the coilpack signal. I'm using the Galant faceplate because it fit. It does read correctly with the homologation. Unfortunately all this means I don't have an oil pressure gauge, just a dummy light but the wiring isn't there for the gauge anyway. I might run something for it in the future. I still need to find another way to mount my digital displays for boost etc. since the tach is now in the location they once used.
This is genius, why didn't I think of doing that!

[Shadow19]

Man we need tutorials on the tachometer and stuff seriously. The tach problem is a HUGE reason why i havent wanted to do the swap. I was hoping someone would come up with a solution before i started.

[eclipsh]

This is genius, why didn't I think of doing that!

You know what they say about genius, 10% inspiration, 90% perspiration. I just really wanted it to work so I kept trying different things until I found one that worked. Getting the 2g tach mounted properly and wired in is by no means easy. If you put your mind to it though you'll find a way to do it.

Any other thoughts on how to make that front cover a little nicer? If I can find a white 7gb one with the filler panel up top for a decent price I'll be doing this again but I want to do it right.

EDIT: didn't see page 12 asking for the tutorial. I'll see about pulling my gauge cluster and snapping a picture or two of what I did.

[mysticj]

Yea... TBH i dont like it... the grilles between the headlights need to stay and u need to fiberglass the mesh in the front to get rid of the bolts. This is kind of hard to explain but this is what they used when they sent my body kit that had spots for mesh. Its damn near the same flimsy metal shit thats used in the thin paper binder things. You know where you have to fold the tabs back and shit.. .if you can find soemthing like that and mount it behind the bumper then just use your skills to make it work that way it would look better.

^^^^Add a lip, I prefer the Type R one.

[Spartan251]

I deffinately like the opening where you removed the grills. After its is meshed it will look alot better. You could use a good strong epoxy to secure the mesh without the rivets. Add a lip. It makes the 7gb front look complete IMO. Mugen or type R either one looks good. I personally am partial to the mugen. there is another pu lip on ebay, it looks real nice also. There is a member on here who has it. white car with the bright section of heads painted yellow.

[97dsmturbogalant]

Ok, for one, for the tach situation, wouldn't a galant gs tach work with the swap? the gs uses coilpacks instead of the distrib. for two, kaufmanb92eb is right , the 7gb front does look the best with the lip, Id'e get it. I am not particular to the opening you cut for the IC or the mesh, you can find smaller mesh on andysautosport.com thats smaller and thinner and just attatch it with epoxy. I like the stock opening on the 7gb front and should be more than efficient for the IC. By the way, kaufman92eb, Where did you get the lip for your white galant with the orig 7g front and what do I look for? Ok, Back on toppic, otherwise great work on the awd and turbo swap.

[eclipsh]

Yes a Galant GS tach should work fine but I didn't have one handy. I don't know how easy they are to get either. Turbo Eclipse tachs should be easy to find.

I'd love to add a lip to the car and was planning to do so. What year Integra should I buy it for? I like the Mugen one btw.

I did buy some epoxy when I started the project but wasn't sure if I wanted to use it. I'll give it a try on the upper mesh and see how it works out. I'll likely be using a different bumper cover for the final product. This one has all the mounting tabs at the fenders broken off. It is more beat up than the photos show so I don't think I'll be trying to fix it up.

[mko]

all tach's should be the same. all it should matter where you tap for the signal. try tapping at the ecu at the crank position sensor wire.

[Spartan251]

eclipsh...look for a lip for a dc2 integra. There are tons on ebay. that where i got mine. The epoxy should be fine for the mesh. I cought my lip on a curb and broke it in half. I used epoxy to glue it back together and you couldn't even tell it was ever broken and it held up doing 95 on the freeway.

97dsm...The lip I put on my white galant front end is a stock lip from a 94 accord. I saw it at pulland save and thought what the hell I will try it. I think it actually came out looking not to bad. I did have to screw it on from the underside.

[eclipsh]

Just used my birthday money to pick these up:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220540712076&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_500wt_1182

[DOHCstunr]

Just used my birthday money to pick these up:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemVersion&item=220540712076&view=all&tid=0

link no worky

[eclipsh]

Ooops...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220540712076&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_500wt_1182

Should work now. I replaced the original link too.

[SPD_FRK]

Not a bad price for the set man, good purchase! How you holding up down there with all that snow!??

[DOHCstunr]

oooh nice!

[eclipsh]

The snow is miserable. The piles are so deep around my driveway the snow blower won't throw it up over unless I'm catching it just right. I actually had to modify the snow blower today so it could get through everything! It was so deep the blower was going under it instead of getting it all so I extended the cowl up. All in all not so much fun. How is the snow up there?

[SPD_FRK]

The snow is miserable. The piles are so deep around my driveway the snow blower won't throw it up over unless I'm catching it just right. I actually had to modify the snow blower today so it could get through everything! It was so deep the blower was going under it instead of getting it all so I extended the cowl up. All in all not so much fun. How is the snow up there?
Hahah, dude that sucks! Snow up here?? What snow? It was like 50* yesterday lol...wish it would snow a bit though. Hey at least with all the snow you can work on the car some...that is if you have enough time after trying to dig out :orangeyes:

[phizzalot]

haha i was looking at those too... Qnz and I were talking about em... Whats the compression on those pistons?

[eclipsh]

Nah, no time to work on the car. I'm an engineering student now and swamped with school work plus my wife and I are expecting our first baby sometime this next week. Free time is going to be nil until summer.

The compression should be around 9:1. Should make for a quick spooling setup.

[eclipsh]

Not something I did to the car exactly but still something I'd like to mention:

http://mitsubishi.gearboxmagazine.com/

http://mitsubishi.gearboxmagazine.com/2010/02/nick-laitschs-1994-galant-es-swapped-4g63-and-awd/

Mitsubishi Gearbox Magazine honored me and my car with a feature. Thanks for all the help I've gotten from all of you here :)

[4-G-rim]

Awsome man...so you are the infamous 7g owner that the owner of Mitsubishi Gearbox was telling me about. Congrats

[kolio]

Congrats! its great to see you get recognized for your hard work.

[Jeffylou87]

Thats crazy.. Congrats!

[Shadow19]

Yea man. This build has been a HUGE inspiration for me. Unfortunately i dont have access to a lift and this build would be an absolute nightmare without one. When i get rich ill do this build with a built tranny...... LOL

[eclipsh]

Thanks for the kind words :) Actually, I did most of the work in my garage crawling around on the floor. The only part we did on the lift was the exhaust, FMIC and gas tank.

[Shadow19]

Surely i will do this one day. Im so happy that you got your recognition man. Its truely a prize piece and i respect you for sticking with this and COMPLETING it. Keep us posted on future mods.

[eclipsh]

Inching my way closer to a rebuild...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320502674548&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:MOTORS:1123#ht_500wt_1182

I don't remember if I mentioned it but I've got an Evo 9 pump in and rewired now too.

[Shadow19]

if all goes accordingly this will be my next move. Already scoped out the whole entire gsx for 600 bucks. Plus my gf is paying half for parts and the other half for me working on her gst (building motor and swapping parts). So this build will be pretty pennyless for me. Im just not sure how the front driver side axle mounts. So ill be looking on this thread for help and whatnot.

[eclipsh]

You'll see how the axle mounts. It is pretty simple. It uses a two piece shaft with a bearing bolted to the back of the block right by the A/C pump.

[Shadow19]

So when i start this will you be around for assistance? LOL

[eclipsh]

Probably not in your garage, no, but I'll be here and I'll help answer your questions :) As I've told others, the wiring is the tricky part. The mechanical bits are pretty straight forward.

[Shadow19]

Well we got the car.. Any day now were going to gut it and get my awd swap off of it. Any updates with this?