8g AWD..Half way done.

[Cali]

Originally posted 3/16/09

the rear half at least. :)

i wont work on the front for a good while till i finish the starion and find a really good deal on a donor evo, but i got tired of the rear awd parts just sitting in my garage and taking up space.

took me two days from start to finish. i took PLENTY of pics so eventually i'll post up a very detailed tutorial.

discuss.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/jdmgalant4g63T/AWD%20Galant/awdgalant1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/jdmgalant4g63T/AWD%20Galant/awdgalant2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/jdmgalant4g63T/AWD%20Galant/awdgalant4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/jdmgalant4g63T/AWD%20Galant/awdgalant3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/jdmgalant4g63T/AWD%20Galant/awdgalant5.jpg

*UPDATED 6/24/12*

So a few years later i finally finished the 4g63t awd swap. I won't bore you with too much info as you can find a lot of help/pics from both stewi's and goosey's build but i'll add a few pointers:

For the driveshaft you dont have to get an adapter from DSS to connect to the DSM 6 bolt rear shaft section; you can use the flange from an EVO. (same spline count; fits perfectly and much much cheaper)
Part number is MR145248. ($48)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/jdmgalant4g63T/99%20Galant%20EVO%204G63T%20AWD%205%20Speed%20Swap/100_3280.jpg

For the front section of the drive shaft, you can use a slip yoke from a starion. it's the same spline count but the O.D. is smaller; the solution is to have a sleeve machined and pressed on. IMO this is a much more effective solution as the u joint is OEM size and clears the tunnel without having to hack it up. There is also speculation from DSM community that the DSS slip yoke is cut from a new oem yoke and welded onto a larger u joint which can be very dangerous if it breaks. (see link below).

http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2244582

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/jdmgalant4g63T/99%20Galant%20EVO%204G63T%20AWD%205%20Speed%20Swap/100_3314.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/jdmgalant4g63T/99%20Galant%20EVO%204G63T%20AWD%205%20Speed%20Swap/IMAG0678.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/jdmgalant4g63T/99%20Galant%20EVO%204G63T%20AWD%205%20Speed%20Swap/IMAG0684.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/jdmgalant4g63T/99%20Galant%20EVO%204G63T%20AWD%205%20Speed%20Swap/IMAG0694.jpg

Drive shaft length from seal to flange (assuming using the evo flange) is 56" ; I dont see any reason it should change from car to car.

For the boot on the steering column, use an evo boot to close up the gap that results from extending it; part # MR449901 ($13)

I also used an evo rear roll stopper (mount) for future ease of replacement; the way i modified the subframe allows for full transmission/transfer case service without removing/dropping the subframe.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/jdmgalant4g63T/99%20Galant%20EVO%204G63T%20AWD%205%20Speed%20Swap/100_3242.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/jdmgalant4g63T/99%20Galant%20EVO%204G63T%20AWD%205%20Speed%20Swap/100_3245.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/jdmgalant4g63T/99%20Galant%20EVO%204G63T%20AWD%205%20Speed%20Swap/100_3241.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/jdmgalant4g63T/99%20Galant%20EVO%204G63T%20AWD%205%20Speed%20Swap/100_3298.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/jdmgalant4g63T/99%20Galant%20EVO%204G63T%20AWD%205%20Speed%20Swap/IMAG0525.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/jdmgalant4g63T/99%20Galant%20EVO%204G63T%20AWD%205%20Speed%20Swap/IMAG0667.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/jdmgalant4g63T/99%20Galant%20EVO%204G63T%20AWD%205%20Speed%20Swap/IMAG0656.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/jdmgalant4g63T/99%20Galant%20EVO%204G63T%20AWD%205%20Speed%20Swap/IMAG0658.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/jdmgalant4g63T/IMAG0014_zpsb8a8dd98.jpg

Video of first startup:
http://youtu.be/8VeZLe0n-AI

[02redgalant]

nice work...do you have re route the exhaust around this crossmember?

[9G]

sweet

[4g63lover]

effin' awesome!

[polishmafia]

i took PLENTY of pics so eventually i'll post up a very detailed tutorial.

discuss.



I'm discussing my anger in not getting a full write-up right away! ;)

The progress looks great, Cali. Nice work!

[G-spot]

awesome progress!

[SleekGTZ]

Awesome.
Only Cali can pull this off.

[B19WHEELS]

Do the damn thang!!

[bronxbombr]

damn good

[DryBear]

How did you deal with the rear subframe? For the 3Gs, they had to cut a big notch to fit the driveshaft - makes me worry about compromising the strength.

[Reelax]

sexy!

[whokilledhoughes]

very nice

[4-G-rim]

S I C K :cool:

[blue8g]

dang i will do this!

[Proto]

Great job Cali, finally someone is doing it!


dang i will do this!
with the custom steelies.

[Da_silvagride]

Doing a motor swap on this one too? Want to sell the car after your done?...

[sponcar]

wow cali u always doing big with your galants because that one that you parted out was amazing....!!!

[Serstylz2]

my AWD Galant is halfway done too.

Its FWD.

[lonestar22]

nice, id subscribe to this thread if u could do that on here

[lonestar22]

lol nevermind, you can!

subscribed~!

[johnygezony]

That is gonna be so Awesome !!!!!

[KaziKai]

I wonder how much does this all cost...

[GAgalant_319]

i think this is gonna turn out to be better than the white one for some strange reason.....

[therev]

cali Dude i love your dedication and skill when working with G's Good work brother

~Gabe

[Stewi]

Nice work Noel.

I just finished getting all my EVO tranny parts together, I just my 4.11 final drive gearset and WaveTrac LSD, I got my tranny, hubs, axles, half shafts, slave cylinder and starter. Im gonna send the tranny out to TRE next week to be built, I hope to have the tranny installed by the end of april. I will take plenty of pics and measurements so you will know where to cut.

[bmaddock]

Ugh and i thought me going 5 speed was sweet, this blows my mind. I love it. Can't wait to see it running. KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK!

[qnz]

Mod 09?

[Stewi]

Mod 09?

I dont know about that.

That car still has a stock motor in it, can you imagine how slow it would be with the stock POS engine swapped to AWD. It would make like 95awhp.

[Cali]

I dont know about that.

That car still has a stock motor in it, can you imagine how slow it would be with the stock POS engine swapped to AWD. It would make like 95awhp.

haha no..maybe mod '10. really dont plan to do much work on it anytime soon.

Brian, the measurements would help out tremendously, if you need any wiring diagrams or other info let me know, i got plently of pics.

btw, sorry i haven't called you back been really busy i'll call you tomorrow.

[boostzealot]

Noel, i thought your black one was a v6? hmmm cant wait to see what comes from that mind of yours. very good stuff here. since im planning on going with a HTA86 in the near future, this would be great for me. FWD cars hate more than 300wtq and im getting close even being N/A

[IVORY_G]

Cali, your My Hero! Lol! Naw, but great project man cant wait to see the outcome! I would love to do this if I had the funds :( Are you plannng on doing a custom front subframe for the AWD Tranny to fit? Or will it work as is? Have u thought about embarking on importing the JDM VR4 motor or is that just impossible to fit in the USDM G?

[Stewi]

Noel, i thought your black one was a v6? hmmm cant wait to see what comes from that mind of yours. very good stuff here. since im planning on going with a HTA86 in the near future, this would be great for me. FWD cars hate more than 300wtq and im getting close even being N/A

BJ im pretty sure his car is 4 cylinder.

[Da_silvagride]

willing to sell it later to another 8ger?

[boostzealot]

BJ im pretty sure his car is 4 cylinder.

oh ok, i guess im thinking of the one he had that had the evo wing, evo style hood, the cyber bodykit and a few other things back in the day.

[platano]

wait a minute, i thought you were trying to sell that AWD setup? guess u changed ur mind? i'm surprised, i dint think you were gonna go through with it anymore. cant wait to see more pics.

Noel, the things you do prove that you are truely a maniac, but in a good way.

[Cali]

oh ok, i guess im thinking of the one he had that had the evo wing, evo style hood, the cyber bodykit and a few other things back in the day.

that was my 2nd galant...v6. sold it a few years back, then got white one and a black one for daily driving.

[Jeffylou87]

Nice progress.. Can't wait to see how the front half works.

[Alexey]

Cali's a beast lol Great work!

[ZigenScarface]

my AWD Galant is halfway done too.

Its FWD.

LMAO i rofled

[maine]

how much did it cost for the awd swap? could u do a evo transmission swap 2?

[galantofva]

my AWD Galant is halfway done too.

Its FWD.


im cryin dude. thats hilarious.

Cali your amazing,

[Da_silvagride]

any updates?

[Galante]

Cali's busy doing engine swap for Matt..

[Stewi]

Cali's busy doing engine swap for Matt..

and making me custom parts....Muhahahaha!

[wright06jhs]

Nice, cant wait to see this done. Theres a guy that has been doing this on club3g on his Black RS, but i dont think he has finished his yet either.

[littlerick]

sorry to revive the thread, but has there been any progress on this? it looks great so far

[Cali]

none whatsoever...been busy doing other projects..i'm barely in the process of fitting the new drivetrain in the starion and after that im restoring a '67 fairlady i just picked up.

in mean time im just driving it the way it is everyday.

[E_Emerson88]

cant wait to see finished product, good luck

[Reelax]

i took a look under the car w/ CALI at MOD09... it's all there, axles, AWD tank, AWD rear cross member, rerouted exhaust and all! if i recall, it just needs a driveshaft and AWD tranny, then it works. it's pretty much done!

[ShiZnitH]

Lets hope its gettin easyer soon over here in Norway to get custom building as that legal :( I want AWD :(

[Stewi]

i took a look under the car w/ CALI at MOD09... it's all there, axles, AWD tank, AWD rear cross member, rerouted exhaust and all! if i recall, it just needs a driveshaft and AWD tranny, then it works. it's pretty much done!

LOL

It needs alot more than that. It needs EVO knuckles, EVO front axles, a transfer case, a shit load of cutting and reinforcing the front subframe, cutting the firewall, relocating the steering rack and re-routing the lines and another PITA mounting the driveshaft. If I recally correctly you would need to source the carrier bearing assemblies from a wrecked EVO and the mounts. The mounts are not sold, so you need a wrecked EVO and you need to drill out the mounts from the bottom, shim them correctly and weld them onto the 8g floor pan. Im gonna be able to give Noel some help on this one, because if all goes as planned, this time next year I will be doing the swap as well, that is, if I dont get the time I want running it FWD.

[krow]

God thats a lot of work.

[Cali]

blah it's not that bad. :)

brian is right though there's more details to it. more than likely though i will be running a tubular front crossmember to help with the space issues.

whenever that is lol.

[Stewi]

blah it's not that bad. :)

brian is right though there's more details to it. more than likely though i will be running a tubular front crossmember to help with the space issues.

whenever that is lol.

Yeah when I get mine made I will have them make a 2nd one for you. It will take alot of the guess work out. over the winter im gonna go to the junkyard with a sawzall and find a bare 8g shell with no front crossmember before it gets crushed I wanna go to town cutting up the firewall and see how many layers their are on the center and how thick each one is. In hindsight i wish I though of that before you got rid of the white car.

[Cali]

hey brian i wonder if we could get away with taking the BFH to it instead of cutting up the firewall....how much clearance are we talking about? 2-3 in?

it worked on the starion lol.

[DOHCstunr]

No,
i'm certainly positive it would require a RBFH.

[Stewi]

hey brian i wonder if we could get away with taking the BFH to it instead of cutting up the firewall....how much clearance are we talking about? 2-3 in?

it worked on the starion lol.

HAHAHAHAHA...thats so gangsta....

Honestly, the part of the firewall that needs to be cut im pretty sure is about 3 or 4 seperate layers, so even a RBFH isnt gonna do much, maybe if you put the car on a jig and turned it upside down so you could swing like a lumber jack, there may be a chance, but im gonna lean towards no. We are probably taking about 4" or so.

[krow]

Has this been done before on a Galant? Its going to be cool when there is a blueprint for doing this.

[Stewi]

It hasnt been done yet, but im sure in the next year either Noel or myself will make it happen.

[d1deuce]

Any updates??? I'd like to do this also but won't try it any time soon cause I have no time...

[4g63lover]

do you need the knuvkle from the EVO also if you ran the EVO 6-speed FWD?

[Stewi]

do you need the knuvkle from the EVO also if you ran the EVO 6-speed FWD?

any time your using an EVO trans you need EVO axles and EVO axles need EVO hubs and EVO hubs need EVO knuckles, and so fourth. The EVO 6 speed trans is JUNK thats why so many MR guys swap back to 5 speed, the 6 speed stuff is expensive, its weak, there arent as many readily available parts, nobody really builds them up.

[sponcar]

^good info......
we always learn something new everyday...!!!

[qnz]

well if youre only going for 300 hp, the 6speed is just fine. It seems the people who break the 6 speeds are also racing heavily or have high hp

[Stewi]

well if youre only going for 300 hp, the 6speed is just fine. It seems the people who break the 6 speeds are also racing heavily or have high hp

at the same time if your only going for 300hp the eclipse 5 speed trans is fine with an LSD. No sense in spending a TON of money doing an EVO trans swap when you dont need that much strength in the trans. The gearing in the EVO trans is also meant for rally/road racing on a high revving engine. The 7,000 RPM redline of a stock 4G64 motor sucks for top end in a trans with such low end gearing, you would likely need to shift into 3rd before you even got to 65 mph under heavy acceleration.

[4g63lover]

at the same time if your only going for 300hp the eclipse 5 speed trans is fine with an LSD. No sense in spending a TON of money doing an EVO trans swap when you dont need that much strength in the trans. The gearing in the EVO trans is also meant for rally/road racing on a high revving engine. The 7,000 RPM redline of a stock 4G64 motor sucks for top end in a trans with such low end gearing, you would likely need to shift into 3rd before you even got to 65 mph under heavy acceleration.

I'm not planning to have a lot of power. maybe 400whp at most. I'm also setting the car up for road racing with the possibility of an EVO swap. Is it really THAT weak??

I'm using the stock 4G64 trans for the stock 4G64, until I blow it up atleast. Then I'll probably opt for the EVO IX MIVEC 4G63T with the MR 6-speed.

Are the knuckles/hub/etc. a bolt on affair? or do I have to fabricate anything?

[Stewi]

The knuckles fit into the strut but you have to bend open the strut a little since the Evo knuckle is about 1/8" wider up top. I'm not sure how much cutting is involved in making a 6 speed trans fit, I had to do a fair amount of cutting/shimming to make the evo 5 speed trans fit.

[4g63lover]

The knuckles fit into the strut but you have to bend open the strut a little since the Evo knuckle is about 1/8" wider up top. I'm not sure how much cutting is involved in making a 6 speed trans fit, I had to do a fair amount of cutting/shimming to make the evo 5 speed trans fit.

ah. Are you boxing the cuts up or leaving them open? wouldnt leaving them open compromise structural integrity of the sub frame?

[Stewi]

ah. Are you boxing the cuts up or leaving them open? wouldnt leaving them open compromise structural integrity of the sub frame?

the cuts I have made are really to non-structural areas of the subframe, in the long term, if I ever do the AWD conversion im going to have a tubular front subframe fabricated. It will not only save weight but it will allow things to be mounted clean and correctly, while still maintaining proper strength.

[T-double]

any updates cali??

[Cali]

Oooo no...i've got two cars to finish before i even continue working on the galant.

[Ivory8g]

jeez! in deep!

[Galantman03]

i just read the entire club3g tut on the awd swap... so i gotta ask... any updates lol

[03chi-town0z]

i just read the entire club3g tut on the awd swap... so i gotta ask... any updates lol

i second that question... i recently joined this forum and have been reading quite a bit because i'm about to jump headfirst into a full 8g vr4 clone build myself. i am relatively active on a couple of other lancer/evo forums and know the value of the search button, but I have yet to find out for sure, was that a 2g rear subframe or evo 8/9 that you are using? maybe i just haven't looked hard enough yet tho. i realize the 2g would be much more likely to direct bolt-in versus the evo style, but then stewi started talking about evo part matching and i'm all confused. lol. thanks.

edit: i also realize this thread is over a year old since the last update, and more clues may be found by reading everything that's been posted since, but i haven't gotten that far yet and i'm half awake as i type this

[Galantman03]

i second that question... i recently joined this forum and have been reading quite a bit because i'm about to jump headfirst into a full 8g vr4 clone build myself. i am relatively active on a couple of other lancer/evo forums and know the value of the search button, but I have yet to find out for sure, was that a 2g rear subframe or evo 8/9 that you are using? maybe i just haven't looked hard enough yet tho. i realize the 2g would be much more likely to direct bolt-in versus the evo style, but then stewi started talking about evo part matching and i'm all confused. lol. thanks.

edit: i also realize this thread is over a year old since the last update, and more clues may be found by reading everything that's been posted since, but i haven't gotten that far yet and i'm half awake as i type this

I'm pretty sure, wait, lol I'm positive its from a 2g... i believe the evo parts you need are the tranny, knuckles, transfer case, and a couple other things i can't remember off the top of my head, hopefully someone chimes in with all the answers... or some lol

[02redgalant]

you use a 2g Auto Awd rear,axles t-case and all,gas tank etc.....with evo front parts tranny axles hubs knuckles..as stewi mentioned..if im not mistaken evo rear end does not bolt on...although the 2g manual does its t-case uses a diff ratio which you can't use on the evo transmission but Auto is a perfect match

[IVORY_G]

I thought the gas tank was a JDM 8th Gen Galant tank not an eclipse?

[Cali]

:D

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/jdmgalant4g63T/100_1844.jpg

[beam514]

just had that sittin around huh. lol

[ricky_db]

ooooh

well at least something is happening to it

[keith6110]

damn! that engine looks good. How much boost are you planning on pushing?

[03chi-town0z]

always nice to see a wrecked 4g63 put to good use cali; i've read good things so far, so i can't wait to see what you do with it. for everyone else, thanks for all the info, i really do appreciate it. although the trans is not what i'm worried about, just rear end/subframe components, which i would imagine now that either auto or manual 2g would work and i just need to match the final drive ratio to the front with new diff. internals when its all done. the car's gonna be 6a13tt/5m/awd imported, so i'll have a custom driveshaft made for connective purposes. thanks again everyone!

[pooprajoe]

wow seems like everyone is gunning for a awd 8g, myself included.

[Gtorque]

I cant wait to see your car awd!!

Im buying a rear end tomorrow...Do i need the rear hubs for these axles to go in??Also can i use my shocks and rear knuckle for this swap?

[Stewi]

I know you can use the 8g shocks and im not sure about the knuckles though, you definetly need the hubs because the stock 8g rear hubs arent hollow & splined for an axle.

[Gtorque]

^Gotcha...Imma try and get this rear on in a week or so..Got the whole thing for $220.00 with gas tank and all

[Galantman03]

so i read through the tut on club3g last night, and i know if we fit the evo tranny in our car, we have to knotch out the subframe to get it to fit. now i know eclipse and galants are mostly the same, but he didn't mention anything about knotch the front subframe for the evo tranny to fit in the eclipse, is the eclipse front subframe different? as in it doesn't require you to knotch it out? also does it bolt right up to the galant and everything lines up? just curious thats all

[Stewi]

so i read through the tut on club3g last night, and i know if we fit the evo tranny in our car, we have to knotch out the subframe to get it to fit. now i know eclipse and galants are mostly the same, but he didn't mention anything about knotch the front subframe for the evo tranny to fit in the eclipse, is the eclipse front subframe different? as in it doesn't require you to knotch it out? also does it bolt right up to the galant and everything lines up? just curious thats all

Im not sure who's tutorial you read, but the only people really sharing knowledge over there on this topic were Slava who hasnt been around in a while, Balla, Ithinkyou and BostonHatcher. Boston and Balla both have pics up of how they cut the subframe, reinforced it and then spaced the steering rack down lower. I know for a fact that you have to trim the subframe to fit the back of the bell housing (remember I have an EVO trans in my car now) and the reall cutting is to fit the transfer case. You need to cut/reinforce alot of the center area of the front subframe and also cut into the firewall on the bottom to give the transfer case vertical clearance. Boston has alot of good pics in his original thread.

[Galantman03]

It was bostons build thread, i guess i didn't really pay attention to the subframe, i thought he just cut it out to fit the tcase and, i didn't see that he mentioned about knotching it for the evo tranny too lol. speaking of which, whats the word on the custom front subframe?
edit: so i went back and looked at the thread, i guess he never took any pics of the front, just of the aft of the front subframe, since that was mainly the focus cuz of the tcase... bummer lol

[Stewi]

It was bostons build thread, i guess i didn't really pay attention to the subframe, i thought he just cut it out to fit the tcase and, i didn't see that he mentioned about knotching it for the evo tranny too lol. speaking of which, whats the word on the custom front subframe?
edit: so i went back and looked at the thread, i guess he never took any pics of the front, just of the aft of the front subframe, since that was mainly the focus cuz of the tcase... bummer lol

I just checked the thread, looks like that pic I was talking about disappeared from his thread....BUT WAIT........... I however, did not lose it, I kept it after he first sent it to me...

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/bostonhatcher/DSC00882.jpg

[Galantman03]

so thats the only knotching to fit the evo tranny? interesting it almost looks like its knotched right where the two housings blot to one another

[eclipsh]

I sure hope more was done with that subframe. Driving a car with that in it would scare the piss out of me. If that lets go your front wheels are going anywhere they please and so is the rest of the car.

That said, without seeing the rest of it and what was done after this picture was taken I would not duplicate it. The original fabricator may very well have added extra bracing that can't be seen in the photos.

[Stewi]

so thats the only knotching to fit the evo tranny? interesting it almost looks like its knotched right where the two housings blot to one another

take a closer look. Look at the driver side of the subframe (right side in the pic) see where the top of the rack comes out, now look down, there is a "window" cut there to clear the bell housing, just below the window the subframe is notched out on the bottom

[Stewi]

I sure hope more was done with that subframe. Driving a car with that in it would scare the piss out of me. If that lets go your front wheels are going anywhere they please and so is the rest of the car.

That said, without seeing the rest of it and what was done after this picture was taken I would not duplicate it. The original fabricator may very well have added extra bracing that can't be seen in the photos.

Also.... take a closer look. Look to the bottom of the subframe, see that giant steel I-beam down there, doesnt come from the factory like that. There is an I-Beam on the front and back of the subframe welded in, trust me, that thing isnt going anywhere.

[deeznutz]

Also.... take a closer look. Look to the bottom of the subframe, see that giant steel I-beam down there, doesnt come from the factory like that. There is an I-Beam on the front and back of the subframe welded in, trust me, that thing isnt going anywhere.

2x thats the most solid piece on the car..

[Galantman03]

take a closer look. Look at the driver side of the subframe (right side in the pic) see where the top of the rack comes out, now look down, there is a "window" cut there to clear the bell housing, just below the window the subframe is notched out on the bottom

ah ok a little more than what i saw first, but still less than what i actually thought. I think i might just go a custom tubular one for many reason though...

[Stewi]

ah ok a little more than what i saw first, but still less than what i actually thought. I think i might just go a custom tubular one for many reason though...

Your gonna spend 1000+ to have that done with little performance gain, other than maybe a 10lb weight savings. I priced out having a local place do it here, they fab that type of stuff all the time and I was quoted 1500-2000.

[mko]

You guys keep this thread alive although Cali hasnt posted since July. just wondering

[Cali]

just wondering what?

[evil-G-nius]

Damn Cali...I just checked this thread....you indeed are a mad man! LOL. Its gonna be the shit when its done. Hopefully I can make MOD '11 so I can run some ideas I have for mine by you! I'll hire you for a job! LOL

[Galantman03]

You guys keep this thread alive although Cali hasnt posted since July. just wondering

well all of it pertains to the awd swap, i hope cali doesn't mind, if he does well we can start another thread, but why do that, when pretty much all this info in here is for the swap anyhow.

what about the drive shaft hangers? i didn't see them or here anything about them in bostons thread. what is the purpose of them, when i see 4wd trucks and rwd cars with out them.

[Cali]

Damn Cali...I just checked this thread....you indeed are a mad man! LOL. Its gonna be the shit when its done. Hopefully I can make MOD '11 so I can run some ideas I have for mine by you! I'll hire you for a job! LOL

i MIGHT have it done by then but doubtful. definitely try to come by, we'll talk!


well all of it pertains to the awd swap, i hope cali doesn't mind, if he does well we can start another thread, but why do that, when pretty much all this info in here is for the swap anyhow.

what about the drive shaft hangers? i didn't see them or here anything about them in bostons thread. what is the purpose of them, when i see 4wd trucks and rwd cars with out them.

there's a couple options from what i've seen, you can use the evo hangers or the rear one from a gsx. (or mix/match; driveshafts too or custom) i still haven't decided which route to take but i have both sets already.

i have all the parts pretty much including a 4g63 and transmission/tc. already working on the wiring too. more than anything i just need to finish the starion first.

[Stewi]

i MIGHT have it done by then but doubtful. definitely try to come by, we'll talk!



there's a couple options from what i've seen, you can use the evo hangers or the rear one from a gsx. (or mix/match; driveshafts too or custom) i still haven't decided which route to take but i have both sets already.

i have all the parts pretty much including a 4g63 and transmission/tc. already working on the wiring too. more than anything i just need to finish the starion first.


The 2g rear hanger is the easiest due to its shape and using the rear section of the 2g driveshaft works, then the front section from the hanger to the transfer case will be custom. Drive Shaft Shop made boston hatcher an aluminum front shaft and an adaptor connect it to the rear shaft for around $800. Any reputable shop that makes driveshafts could do the same and make it from steel substantially less.

[eclipsh]

If you go steel you need to go with a 3" or larger diameter front section on a 2-piece drive shaft. Go on, ask me how I know ;) Given the larger diameters needed I determined I was better off using a 3 piece.

[Galantman03]

The 2g rear hanger is the easiest due to its shape and using the rear section of the 2g driveshaft works, then the front section from the hanger to the transfer case will be custom. Drive Shaft Shop made boston hatcher an aluminum front shaft and an adaptor connect it to the rear shaft for around $800. Any reputable shop that makes driveshafts could do the same and make it from steel substantially less.

so how many hangers are needed? can you use all 2g hangers? or do you have to use like a combination of evo hangers for the forward part of the vehicle and 2g for the aft part of the vehicle?

[Stewi]

If you go steel you need to go with a 3" or larger diameter front section on a 2-piece drive shaft. Go on, ask me how I know ;) Given the larger diameters needed I determined I was better off using a 3 piece.

Im not sure why a 3" shaft would be a problem, the shaft Bostonhatcher is using is 3" maybe even 3.5" and its a total of two pieces, the aluminum shaft is the front section and the stock 2g shaft is the rear section.


so how many hangers are needed? can you use all 2g hangers? or do you have to use like a combination of evo hangers for the forward part of the vehicle and 2g for the aft part of the vehicle?


You really only need one hanger and like I said the 2g ones are preferable because are easier to weld into out tunnel since they fit into the 2g similar where as the EVO hangers are staggered off the the sides, they attach a little differently. If your plan is to run a two piece drive shaft you need one hanger, 3 piece drive shaft requires 2 hangers, not sure why anyone would want to run a 3 piece shaft though, in the end its just more work.

[eclipsh]

I went with a 3 piece because the 2.5" diameter 2 piece I had failed at 85 mph, destroyed my transfer case and beat the shit out of my exhaust and underbody. I do not know how much space there is under an 8g but on the 7g the tunnel is too narrow for a 3" shaft and a 3" exhaust. Just running the 2.5" shaft I had serious issues with fitment. I'd have to see the 8g belly to say for sure if the same issues will apply.

[Galantman03]

You really only need one hanger and like I said the 2g ones are preferable because are easier to weld into out tunnel since they fit into the 2g similar where as the EVO hangers are staggered off the the sides, they attach a little differently. If your plan is to run a two piece drive shaft you need one hanger, 3 piece drive shaft requires 2 hangers, not sure why anyone would want to run a 3 piece shaft though, in the end its just more work.

do you really need the driveshaft hanger? i guess i don't understand exactly what it does lol or why its needed... i look at my dads 4wd... no driveshaft hangers and all... i just need this cleared up for me lol

[Stewi]

do you really need the driveshaft hanger? i guess i don't understand exactly what it does lol or why its needed... i look at my dads 4wd... no driveshaft hangers and all... i just need this cleared up for me lol

Yes. Its all about driveshaft angle, vibration and weight. First off, from where the EVO t-case is aligned versus the rear differential alignment, its not a perfectly straight line, thats the first reason you cant use a one piece shaft. The hanger holds the section of shaft in place, typically just before or after a joint. So since you need to use a two piece shaft, you need a hanger. Also, having the hanger bearing helps to reduce vibration as the shaft spins, it causes reduced wear in the U-joints and less lateral "side loading" if you will, on the differential.

[Galantman03]

I guess I figured the u joints in the driveshaft would u-joint? the right way, so you wouldn't need the hangers.. guess not lol. thanks for clearing it up

[eclipsh]

galantman03, Stewi covered some basics but there is a lot more to it. The drive system in AWD Mitsu cars is very different from a 4wd truck. In a truck the shafts are typically extending from the center of the wheel base, where the transfer case is, out to the axles. That means they are fairly short. They are also bolted in place at both ends.

The Mitsu cars have one long shaft running from almost the front wheels to the rear. Mitsu engineered it to be a three piece unit with four joints. Only the rear u-joint actually has a section bolted into place. The front uses a slip joint where it slides freely in and out of the transfer case. They made it that way because the transverse motor layout rocks forward and backward a lot and the transaxle and transfer case rock with it. That means it slides forward and backward along the length of the drive shaft so the joints have to be able to handle that.

Since the drive shaft is only attached rigidly at one end and uses four joints, it can't stay up without carrier bearings to keep it there. You can see the bearings in my photo below. They're the big hoops the shaft runs through (two of them).

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll270/eclipsh/010-1.jpg

Without these the front yoke going into the transfer case would just slip out.

After my drive shaft snapped I did a lot of research. Turns our there were actually several reasons for the three piece shaft. Due to the gear ratios and wheel sizes on the AWD Mitsu cars the drive shaft spins very fast. At 70 mph it is spinning around 3400 RPMs. At 130 it is spinning at around 6300. That isn't unusual if the thing spinning is small but when you start dealing with a shaft that is five or six feet long it causes problems. Drive shafts do some pretty crazy stuff under load including flexing like a sine wave (s-curve). Over a short distance it doesn't amount to much but over longer distances that sine wave leads to things breaking (like it did with mine). To combat that designers will use wider diameter pipes (it is actually the ratio of diameter to length that really matters). Delivery trucks and the like will use 4-5" diameter drive shafts that are very long. They also use very large tires so the shaft isn't spinning as fast. For Mitsu's a 2.5" diameter two piece shaft is too small. Even if the walls are made thicker it simply cannot handle the RPM's and the torque a modified car will put out. A 3" diameter pipe barely makes it. For mine I would really have needed a 3.5" diameter to play it safe. Pipe that diameter is more expensive, heavier, and puts that weight further out from the center of rotation which saps power. Carbon fiber helps a lot but it is pricey and would almost certainly have to be custom made for an AWD swapped Galant which makes it even worse.

There are drive shaft calculator spread sheets available on the web which include gear ratios, tire diameters, shaft widths, lengths and wall thicknesses and they'll tell you if your shaft stands a snow ball's chance in hell of staying in one piece. That was something I didn't do the first time and I paid the price for it.

To be fair, I did also have an issue with rubbing which weakened the pipe. Looking at the calculations though it would only have been a matter of time before it happened regardless. Without a large diameter for the two piece shaft it simply isn't rigid enough to handle any real power or speed.

[Stewi]

Nice work. I really wasnt gonna get that far into it, but im glad you did.

[Galant306m]

How hard was it to bolt in the rear end? Voodoo is doing the swap in his 3gay and has a evo 8 shell just wondering how hard it is cause he was going to go with a 2g rear end setup but i thought the evo rear would bolt it.

[Stewi]

How hard was it to bolt in the rear end? Voodoo is doing the swap in his 3gay and has a evo 8 shell just wondering how hard it is cause he was going to go with a 2g rear end setup but i thought the evo rear would bolt it.

The EVO rear subframe itself is totally different and doesnt fit. The EVO rear diff will physically bolt into place on a 2g subframe by just swapping over the rear diff cover from a 2g onto the EVO diff housing, since the 2g cover has the 2 bolt holes for mounting it and the EVO one does not.

[Galant306m]

Hmmmm well if he uses the 2g rear subfram I may attempt to make the evo one fit in the 7g..... yes some work will need to be done but no it won't be impossible. Anything can ft in any car with enough work I may put my hands on it and see what I can come up with

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk

[Stewi]

If your doing all that just go custom tubular with a fuel cell, alot less trouble and saves weight.

[Galant306m]

at any point it would just be way easier to just but a 2g subframe and not worry about the evo one.

[Cali]

Finally finished the entire swap. See first post for new pics/video.

[lucap100is]

awesome!

[Galantman03]

*UPDATED 6/24/12*

So a few years later i finally finished the 4g63t awd swap. I won't bore you with too much info as you can find a lot of help/pics from both stewi's and goosey's build but i'll add a few pointers:

For the driveshaft you dont have to get an adapter from DSS to connect to the DSM 6 bolt rear shaft section; you can use the flange from an EVO. (same spline count; fits perfectly and much much cheaper)
Part number is MR145248. ($48)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/jdmgalant4g63T/99%20Galant%20EVO%204G63T%20AWD%205%20Speed%20Swap/100_3280.jpg

For the front section of the drive shaft, you can use a slip yoke from a starion. it's the same spline count but the O.D. is smaller; the solution is to have a sleeve machined and pressed on. IMO this is a much more effective solution as the u joint is OEM size and clears the tunnel without having to hack it up. There is also speculation from DSM community that the DSS slip yoke is cut from a new oem yoke and welded onto a larger u joint which can be very dangerous if it breaks. (see link below).


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/jdmgalant4g63T/99%20Galant%20EVO%204G63T%20AWD%205%20Speed%20Swap/100_3314.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/jdmgalant4g63T/99%20Galant%20EVO%204G63T%20AWD%205%20Speed%20Swap/IMAG0678.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/jdmgalant4g63T/99%20Galant%20EVO%204G63T%20AWD%205%20Speed%20Swap/IMAG0684.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/jdmgalant4g63T/99%20Galant%20EVO%204G63T%20AWD%205%20Speed%20Swap/IMAG0694.jpg

Drive shaft length from seal to flange (assuming using the evo flange) is 56" ; I dont see any reason it should change from car to car.

For the boot on the steering column, use an evo boot to close up the gap that results from extending it; part # MR449901 ($13)



Video of first startup:
http://youtu.be/8VeZLe0n-AI
Dang it lol you beat me! NICE WORK!

so my question is, did you order the drive shaft from dss, and then take their slip yoke off, and install the starions? also, you wouldnt happen to have the part number for the starions slip yoke would you?
That evo flange is the one that comes with the evo rear diff correct?

[Cali]

Dang it lol you beat me! NICE WORK!

so my question is, did you order the drive shaft from dss, and then take their slip yoke off, and install the starions? also, you wouldnt happen to have the part number for the starions slip yoke would you?
That evo flange is the one that comes with the evo rear diff correct?

no i had it custom made locally. and i dont have the starion part number but i do have an extra one if you're interested.

The flange i used is from an evo drive shaft not the the diff. (different part number)

[bgood12]

First, congrats. Second I think it sucks I have asa Japan and I can see and get the part numbers to make the swap immensely easier but I dunno where to order the Japanese parts from mitsubishi.

Sent from my BlackBerry 9360 using Tapatalk

[dronesurfboards]

Congrats Noel! Just dont ever sell it! We dont want to see this car go the way the other one did.

[IVORY_G]

Congrats Noel! Just dont ever sell it! We dont want to see this car go the way the other one did.

Uhhhh too late. He already sold it a while ago and just now finished the swap for the new owner.

[dronesurfboards]

damn. hopefully the new owner takes care of that car.

[Stewi]

Nice work Noel.

The DSS Evo yoke though is a custom piece. It's a billet forging with no welds on it. The main reason I went with that setup is so I can run in huge spicer U-joints for higher HP applications.

[wetamup2k3g]

Ultra dope! The new owner should join the site, in fact, it would be a condition of the sale if it were me lol.

[muchoanime]

muy buen trabajo
good work!

lo voy a guardar en mis favoritos

add in my favorits


---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=-37.992087,-57.551471

[IVORY_G]

Ultra dope! The new owner should join the site, in fact, it would be a condition of the sale if it were me lol.

LOL! x2!

[greddy]

Car is up for sale again, new owner never paid completely, check facebook he wants 15K for it

[Cali]

OBO!!! Willing to work on that if anybody is serious.

[muchoanime]

Hello!
The steering gear is the original car, because I heard that there are problems with the transfer.

Hola!
El steering gear es el original del auto, porque escuche que hay problemas con el transfer.

[sponcar]

is this car still around?