Hmm so i was thinking...

[Galanttuner10]

i have decided im going to do the 2g headswap, i have the head just need the 64 cam gears timing belt and headgasket and now i have everything to turbo the car but im holding off on that aspect for a bit.

now my plan is to do the headswap, new ecu, injectors and all that at the same time except the turbo and i was thinking it would be very wise just to go to a 2g harness instead of some repinning and rewiring.

i see no major issues with this and i just want to double check before i get a new harness

thanks
Chris

[evil-G-nius]

out of curiosity...why use 64 cam gears instead of the 63 gears?

[Galant306m]

i was thinking about getting a new harness too, just seems to me like the only big pain in the ass is going to be running it to the engine bay, and i dont exactly know what connectors work and which ones will need to be changed, but the cool thing is if you go with a 2g harness and the plugs are different you can just swap them with the ones from the 7g harness.

That was my thought on it.

[Galant306m]

out of curiosity...why use 64 cam gears instead of the 63 gears?

Its because the 63 gears are supposably in the wrong position? And cause the deck of the 4g64 is different then the 63.

[4-G-rim]

out of curiosity...why use 64 cam gears instead of the 63 gears?

You can use 4G63 gears if you want. You just advance the timing advance timing 1/2 notch. IMO...I would spend the $$ and buy the DOHC 4g64 cam gears and know the timing marks are truly where they're suppose to be

[Galanttuner10]

kev i agree with you the 64 cam gears total to like 50 bucks and its worth having the correct marks

and mitch.. im pretty sure if we swap out the harness we will encounter little issues as all the connectors will be correct for the head etc.

also.. i have a 95 head and in the tutorial is says i have to use the 95-96 CAS.. this isnt the issue tho.. the issue is that i have a 98 ecu so the CAS is different and i wonder if i will encounter issues

[kolio]

out of curiosity...why use 64 cam gears instead of the 63 gears?

it's been discussed in several topics, but the 64 deck is taller and the biming belt has more teeth. so 63 gears as kevin stated can be used but you need to advance both 1/2 a tooth.

[kolio]

and changing out the whole harness is more a pain than swapping some pins. your going to have to move alot more pins to make everything in the car work. you can't run biggger injectors on stock non boosted motor.

i would hold off and do it all at once. it's going to be cheaper and easier than going back and changing stuff

[seth98esT]

Just get adjustable gears. I got a set of AEM adjustable gears for $110 shipped on eGay a few years back :P

Chris, since you have a 96, you have the 4-pin ECU correct? If so, you just have to add one wire for the knock sensor(if you use one) and one or two for the power transistor. You have to move the 4 injector wires around and two or three more. Honestly swapping to the 2g harness is a LOT more work, you would have to rewire the fuse box.

Keep the Galant harness, follow JiPs ECU swap tutorial, be done in less then a day :P

As for the CAS, that I am not sure, you will have to do some searching on DSMTuners. I know there is a difference between a 1g and 2g CAS, but I was running a 98 GSX ECU and then a 95 EPROM ECU on a 1g CAS with no problems. I would assume the CAS signal is the same no matter what year 1g/2g. The only difference between a 1g and 2g CAS is that the 1g CAS is adjustable.

[bmore303]

If you have a 96 or later 7G I would recommend just repinning the few wires like Seth said. 94-95 is a whole other bag of worms.

I would also like to add that the 1G CAS also house the crank sensor, where as the 2G has a standalone crank sensor like the 96-98 7g. Also the positioning of the 95 CAS is different in comparison to the 97-99 2g.

[mko]

Swapping Harnesses is easy, I pull mine out in 15 min. The issue here is addressed to the connectors after the ECu going to the dashboard and instrument cluster. If the wires are different then you may get short somewhere and fry the ECU. IDk if someone can verify if Eclipse and Galant have the same connectors after the ECU

[kolio]

Swapping Harnesses is easy, I pull mine out in 15 min. The issue here is addressed to the connectors after the ECu going to the dashboard and instrument cluster. If the wires are different then you may get short somewhere and fry the ECU. IDk if someone can verify if Eclipse and Galant have the same connectors after the ECU

from what i remember behind the dash it's diffrent. even the gauge cluster is connections are

[Galanttuner10]

ok so its easier to just repin the connectors alraight.. now the 95-96 CAS is completely different from the 97-99 as the 95-96 cams have a little cut out on them for the sensor.. my main issue is if the 97-99 ecu will work with the 95-96 ecu.. i looked over the headswap tutorial and saw nothing really about concerns of ecu years so who knows, i might be ok.

another question. i was planning on putting in the ecu, injectors, dohc, and the safc all at one time and run it like that for a short time before the turbo.. i know the ecu will compensate for the turbo but i can pull fuel so it doesnt flood or should i just do the headswap first by istelf and do the rest later

[seth98esT]

Like I said, Ive used a 95 and 98 ECU with the same CAS with no issues. If the 2ga CAS signal was different then the 2gb CAS signal, then one of those ECUs would not have worked with my 1g CAS.

With 450cc injectors and no turbo, I dont know how well the SAFC can pull back fuel trims. Just leave the injectors out of the equation until you are turbo. They take 15 minutes to wire in and arent required for the headswap.

[mko]

I think it doesnt matter what year CAS youre gonna use - one is plastic, the other one has metal housing.... The difference in between 90-94 and 95-99. 90-94 has both crank and cam shaft sensors, and 95-99 has only cam sensor. The other difference is that 90-96 CAS cam signal has opposite polarity than 97-99 and if you want to use 90-96 you have to swap the injector pins 1 for 4 and 2 for 3 /cylinder wise/. All 95-99 ECU are compatible with minor mods, all are OBD2


If you want to run 2g ECU with 450cc w/o turbo youll need the MAFT. IDk if the SAFC can do it. As you said youll be running very rich and you low and some mid RPMs will be very shitty

[mko]

Damn, Seth said it before me

[Galanttuner10]

i know they arent required for the head swap so i guess i will leave them out of the equation for now.. i will look more into it but if i can use the 95 head and CAS with the 97-99 ecu then i will be set

[Galanttuner10]

and thanks for the help guys

[bmore303]

Yes the ECU will recognize the signal regardless. Although CAS positioning changed the ECU's did not. (minus eprom :P)

And yes the SAFC would perform the same task as the MAFT mko, although the SAFC is out of production if I'm not mistaken.

[Galanttuner10]

Yes the ECU will recognize the signal regardless. Although CAS positioning changed the ECU's did not. (minus eprom :P)

And yes the SAFC would perform the same task as the MAFT mko, although the SAFC is out of production if I'm not mistaken.

alright thats what i was thinking after what seth said... and the safc is still in production as the safc neo and it now has a VTECH controller in it, but id rather have an SAFC 2 as i dont need the vtech controller and the cost is like 350 for the neo

[mko]

Yes the ECU will recognize the signal regardless. Although CAS positioning changed the ECU's did not. (minus eprom :P)



Yes it will recognize the signal and will start the engine just for one time and it will throw a code and it wont start untill you clear it

[seth98esT]

I believe that only affected 1g CAS with 2g ECUs. I ran into the Random Misfire code for awhile that would cause my car not to start, or if its already running, it will drop down to 2 cylinders and run horrible until I cleared the code.

I fixed this by installing a potentiometer on the CAS signal line. Theres a vfaq on it I believe.

[bmore303]

Oooh I see, maybe you can find one used without the uneeded bit.

Edit- After pondering at my desk long enough it finally hit me, and it's something I had to do myself lol. The signals are inverted...but it's still a simple fix.

[Galanttuner10]

ah so mko was right when he said to change the injector pins as the 95-96 CAS signal is inverted???

[mko]

From Magnus MOtorsport Tutorial

On a 95-96 car with stock 2G head
· Swap Plugs 1 and 4 with 2 and 3 (order is not important)
On a 97+ car with stock 2G head
· No plug swap or injector swap is necessary

Anatomy of a Cam Angle Sensor
There are three types of cam angle sensor that are known to work. The early years (89-92) have a metal green/gray cover, use a flat rotating disk with slots, and an optical sensor. The later year sensor (93-94) has a black plastic cover, uses curved metal plates that rotate through a hall-effect sensor. The hall effect sensor is physically similar to the technology used in the 95-96 cam and crank sensors. Theoretically the hall effect.

1. Make a wiring harness.
Due to the inverted Cam signal, injector trigger wires will need to be switch on 95-96 year ECU cars with this wiring diagram in order to bring the signals back into phase. The difference is subtle, but the motor will start easier, provide smoother idle, and have less hesitations during mild acceleration. sensor is higher resolution. They all work.

Injector wiring

Green: Pin 1 is now 14
Green w/ yellow stripe: Pin 2, is now Pin 1
Green w/ red stripe: Pin 15, is now Pin 2
Yellow w/ black stripe: Pin 14 is now Pin 15

Coil PAck wiring

The spark coil signal is inverted. Looking at the coils, label each wire A,B,C,D. Change the spark plug wire
locations: A is now C, B is now D, C is now A and D is now B. Another way to do this is to change the triggerwires to the coil, (3 wire triangle plug, next to the igniter). Switch the two blue wires. One is blue with red stripe, the other is blue with black stripe. The third wire that remains unchanged is black with white stripe.

[Galanttuner10]

this is good info as well mko, now this will be basically a 97-99 eclipse with a 95 head and cams so i need the 95-96 CAS i know that so far.. now mine is a 96 galant so im wordering how the harness is in comparison.. idk maybe im confusing myself

[mko]

As I told you - all 2g Eclipses are OBD2 even the early 95s. so the ECUs are four plug ECUs just like 96 Galant. So, print the ECU pinouts and print the pin listings for 2g and Galant, put them side by side and start comparing. It will be very easy to see what wires have to swapped and what wires have to be added. Just to let you know - the 2g pinouts will have the fuel pressure regulator solenoid and wastegate solenoid. You dont need to add wires for them, but it will throw a code.

Thats why I will be sticking with 95 Mirage distributor, just have to take it to a machine shop

[Galanttuner10]

i really dont want to throw a code as i have emissions testing here in CT.. i can still wire them up though correct?

[mko]

you could, or just find a spyder or mirage ECU that dont have any of these

[Galanttuner10]

you could, or just find a spyder or mirage ECU that dont have any of these

i could but i think the turbo ecu is a better choice as im going turbo soon after the headswap

[bmore303]

Yeah if you want an already made no bs tune then get the turbo ecu and drop in the 450s. Just can't turn up the boost >_< . Either way you'll have an SAFC/MAFT to fix any fueling issues you need.

[Galanttuner10]

bmore.. that was my thaught.. drop in the new head, ecu injectors and the safc all at the same time and tune it from there and pull fuel where needed then boost..

or maybe everything will fall into place and i can do it all at the same time

[eclipsh]

You could just pick up a cheap 14b and 2g manifold. That should only set you back about $150. Then you'd just need an exhaust. Otherwise you could find an E316g with the adjustable wastegate so you can turn the boost down below 10psi. They'd all be easy to sell if you wanted to upgrade after you get forged internals.

If it were me I'd wait an extra month or two and just do it all at once. Save yourself some headache and time.

[Galanttuner10]

You could just pick up a cheap 14b and 2g manifold. That should only set you back about $150. Then you'd just need an exhaust. Otherwise you could find an E316g with the adjustable wastegate so you can turn the boost down below 10psi. They'd all be easy to sell if you wanted to upgrade after you get forged internals.

If it were me I'd wait an extra month or two and just do it all at once. Save yourself some headache and time.

i have everything to turbo it except ther intercooler piping and exhaust, its just its my dd right now and i have to have everything working and want to make sure everything is perfect before i turbo it. That is why i want to add everything but the turbo then make sure all that is good then keep it running like that for a while then boost it.

[eclipsh]

If you're running the turbo ECU, 2g airflow sensor, 450 injectors and other sensors off a 2g then the tuning shouldn't be a problem even without the turbo in place. You'll be metering the correct amount of air and the ECU already expects the 450cc injectors to be there so it will add fuel accordingly. You'll need a little work because of the different displacement and compression but my guess is that is about it. A basic SAFC should be able to handle that easily, especially if you have a wideband to meter with. I'm sure it has been covered on this site, or DSM Tuners, but might need to mess with timing advance too since the higher base compression will likely confuse the turbo ECU. If the ECU you have is EPROM I'm sure you could get a chip that'd get it running smooth right off the bat.

That said, if you are planning on doing the DOHC swap and turbo ECU at the same time the turbo won't add any real complications other than the exhaust and intercooler pipes you mentioned. All it will do is push some air into a system that will already be prepared for it. Either way though, have fun :)