How To: 8G Rear Disc Brake Conversion

[run1206]

I made a tutorial a few years ago on how to convert the rear drum brakes to rear disc brakes.
Here's the link on GalantForums.com (for those registered there as well)
http://www.galantforums.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=91&t=2656

full tutorial:
Ok, so i finally changed my rear drums to disc brakes. Special thanks to 90crxfreak for helping me with the install, rez888 for having the brakes for sale, and all the members of GalantForums.com who gave me info on the brakes. Now, onto the tutorial.....


The brakes were from a '99 Galant V6, didn't take a pic of them before hand, but they were a lil rusty and the backing plates were bent out of shape, so we fixed them up and a local shop resurfaced the rotors. You'll need PB Blaster, a 10mm and 12mm wrench, vice grip wrench, torque wrench, pry bar (if necessary), breaker bar, 14mm wrench or socket (preferably socket), screwdriver, flashlight (if in night), some good food and good music! :D

First up, block the front wheels with bricks or anything that will prevent the car from rolling, jack up the car and remove the wheels, and disengage the E-Brake. (And use jack stands to keep car up.)

Next , remove the drum....refer to the service manual in the "Downloads" section to see the complete drum assembly.
(http://www.galantforums.com/modules.php?name=Downloads)

Here's some pics with the drum off the car....
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/drumafterremovalMedium.jpg

Notice the small hole next to one of the large lug nut holes, there's two of these holes that are threaded for a 12 mm bolt which will remove the drum off the hub.
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/pointingtotheholeusedtoremovedrumMe.jpg
(Note: tighten the two bolts evenly to remove the drum.)
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/12mmwrenchonholetoremovedrumMedium.jpg

Okay, now the assembly should look like this...
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/ReardrumbrakeassemblyMedium.jpg

Next, unscrew the hard line from the soft line from the drum asembly. PPreferably, use a 10mm line wrench, but if you don't have a line wrench, use vice grip wrenchs, and be aware to not tighten so tight that it distort the 10mm fitting. Use PB Blaster to loosen the 10mm fitting.) (this pic does show the disc, but is used at this time to show use of the vice grips.)
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/tighteninghardlineMedium.jpg

Next, remove the soft line C clip that is holding up the soft line. As soon as you do this, the soft line can be seperated.
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/CclipforhardlineMedium.jpg
(Note: wiggle the clip back and forth for easy removal.)
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/cclip2Medium.jpg

Next, remove the 12mm bracket for the soft line that is attached to the knuckle, use PB Blaster.
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/SoftLinebracketfordrumsMedium.jpg

Next, remove the four bolts in the back of the knuckle that runs through the backing plate and the hub.
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/backingplateinstalled3boltsMedium.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/backingplatewithremovedboltsMedium.jpg

(This pic will be used later, it's just a refernce to where the bolts are :wink: . Use PB Blaster in the back, in the bolts, and where the hub is located.)

Next, remove the hub and the backing plate.
Note: Some excessive force may be necessary....(90crxfreak aka Jared takin a crack at it :lol: )
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/tryingtogetthefrigginbackingplateof.jpg

Now, the "bare" knuckle should look like this...
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/bareknuckleMedium.jpg

Now, in order to get the complete drum brake assembly off, you need to detach the E-Brake cable. To do this, you first must remove the C clip from the inside of the backing plate.
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/removingcclipfrombackingplateMedium.jpg
(Disregard the focused hub, my photography is terrible :oops: 8O )
Note: Wiggle the C clip to one side where you can get the screwdriver in between the C clip and the E-Brake cable. Pry off from the E-Brake cable.
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/removingcclipfrombackingplate2Mediu.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/removingcclipfrombackingplate3Mediu.jpg

Now, take a screwdriver and push the E-Brake mechanism inward towards the other side, like so....
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/Attachmenttoe-brakeleverMedium.jpg

Now you can access the actual cable connected to the mechanism you pulled up. Might be a lil difficult, but take off the cable from the mechanism.
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/EbrakeremovedMedium.jpg

Now that the E-Brake cable is out, just remove it from the drum assembly.
Front
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/drumassemblyfrontMedium.jpg
and side image
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/drumassemblysideMedium.jpg

ok, flip the disc backing plate to the back, you'll notice the piping for the E-Brake is too small and too long for the E-Brake to fit.
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/EbrakeholediameterofdiscsMedium.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/uncutEbraketubeMedium.jpg

So, we have to drill the hole wider and use the dremel to cut the top down about 2mm.
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/2mmremovalofeBrakepipeMedium.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/toolusedlolMedium.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/dremelingtheebrakepipeMedium.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/DrillopenebrakeslotMedium.jpg

and here's what it looks like after drilling and dremeling...
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/EbrakeslotafterdrillingMedium.jpg

our calculations aren't exact, so measure how far you have to cut, so take your time with the customization.

Now, you have to grind down the C clip opening on the cable itself, be EXTRA careful when doing this, it shouldn't be much more bigger than the dremel cutting disc itself.
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/CclipopeningMedium.jpg

Now, test fit and make sure that the cable fits in perfectly with the E-Brake cable C clip.
Then take the cable out after the test. To secure the brake cable, drill a hole on the side of the backing plate shown here...
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/drillingholeMedium.jpg

Now, put the E-Brake cable back into the piping and attach the cable into the center-moving mechanism(parking brake lever).
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/preparingtheebrakeleverforcableMedi.jpg
the backing plate bolt will help you to get the E-Brake cable into the parking brake lever
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/installingebrakecableMedium.jpg


Install the Brake disc C clip after putting the whole assembly back on the knuckle (connect hub to backing plate, then both to the knuckle. make sure the hub is in the correct position, the 4 bolt holes should align perfectly.)
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/installinghubMedium.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/installinghub2Medium.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/installingebrakedisccclip2Medium.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/installingebrakedisccclipMedium.jpg

Now, with the hole you drilled on the side of the backing plate, tie the cable taut with the backing plate using a ziptie.
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/ziptiesftmfwMedium.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/topviewofbackingplatewithziptieMedi.jpg

Make sure you clean the assembly real good, use brake cleaner...
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/cleaningdiscswithbrakecleanerMedium.jpg

Get those rotors too...and wipe off the dirt on the rotors too
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/cleaningdiscswithbrakecleaner2Mediu.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/wipingdowndiscswithbrakecleanerMedi.jpg

when putting the backing plate back on the knuckle, use a torque wrench and tighten to 60ft/lbs. No more, no less...
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/usingtorquewrench60ftlbs.jpg

Now, install the rotor
Make sure the piston on the caliper is fully in, has to be done evenly, and be careful, cuz you can tear the inner piston ring, which may require a complete caliper overhaul, once again, take your time.
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/retractingpistonincalipersMedium.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/retractingpistonincalipers2Medium.jpg

Now, remove the old hard lines from the calipers, use PB Blaster
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/removingoldhardlinefromcalipersoftl.jpg

For those who don't know what PB Blaster is...
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/PBBlasterMedium.jpg

Now, install the brake pads into the calipers, then install the soft brake line. Make sure you put in the C clip before you attach the hardline, this will make it easier to tighten.

use Brake Quiet (or brake silencing grease, usually sold with new pads at local auto store)
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/antisquealingfluidforbrakepadsMediu.jpg

pads into the caliper(this is me run1206 :orangesmile: )...
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/installingbrakepadsintocaliperMediu.jpg

caliper onto the backing plate
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/installingcalipersMedium.jpg

install C clip...
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/installingcclipforsoftlineMedium.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/Hardline2Medium.jpg
screw bolt tight with vice grips (don't over-tighten)
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/tighteninghardlineMedium.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/10mmwrenchonhardlineMedium.jpg

don't forget to spray the bleeding screw with PB Blaster (to prevent stripping)
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/PBblasteringthenippleMedium.jpg

Finally, bleed your brakes (we did two, but it'd be better to bleed all 4)

here's how the brakes look finished...
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/finaldiscassemblydriverssideMedium.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u43/run1206/disc%20brakes%20conversion/finaldiscassembly2driverssideMedium.jpg
Sorry the rotor looks a lil dirty, started raining a lil and tried to clean it off.

Once again, i thank 90crxfreak for helping me install the brakes, rez888 for the sale of the brakes, and the members of GalantForums.com with information and research on the project. :orangesmile:

[es_fact]

Great tut bro.. I actually linked it as well on my build thread.


lol at the focused HUB :)

[run1206]

no problem! always good to see more people doing the disc conversion :thumb:

[es_fact]

so what about the proportioning valve? Technically, by removing your drums, your adding more pressure to your front rotors... you'd have to swap out the proportioning valve lol. I guess in order to add more breaking power to the back. Disks use much more pressure that drums do, so if your outputting the same breaking to the back disks as you did with the drums... you didn't really upgrade your breaking...


I'm not saying I've done it lol... I'm just saying that this is what were doing lol

[run1206]

yeah someone mentioned that to me before :icon_confused:
i haven't removed the proportioning valve yet, i'd probably have to check if anyone's swapped the proportioning valve as well.

[es_fact]

I searched a bit.. and found a tut by I think MKO on his 7G lemme try to link it..

[es_fact]

Here it is..

http://socallifestyle.com/rear_disc_tutorial/tutorial.html

I can't remember the name of this driver lol.. but i recognize the car

it's not mko lol

[run1206]

i know that car, that's peanotation's car, long time 7G TGC member. :orangesmile:
https://www.thegalantcenter.org/member.php?u=1041
pretty sure he can probably verify this mod as well.

[es_fact]

I though it peano's car lol..

[tamim13]

So, from what is being said, we need to change out the 8g with drum's proportioning valve (Pressure metering valve, galant, 2.4l, w/o abs) to the "Pressure metering valve, galant, 3.0l, w/o abs, as the online catalogue says?

[nyjets985]

So, from what is being said, we need to change out the 8g with drum's proportioning valve (Pressure metering valve, galant, 2.4l, w/o abs) to the "Pressure metering valve, galant, 3.0l, w/o abs, as the online catalogue says?

ya that was my next question im doin this in a few days? ? if any body has already done this with there 8g they should make a tuturial

[es_fact]

I posted a tut... well kinda lol

I think you should PM peano and ask him. You don't really have to, but it IS way better for your front disks.

As for me... I've had the parts from MKO for about 1 month now. But I've done nothing with them until I'm able to figure out this problem.

[run1206]

you don't have to, but it's better for the front brakes, since it will even out the pressure to the rear brakes as well. i didn't do this extra mod, i've ran my rear discs for about three years now, and i've never locked my brakes.....*knock on wood*

[tamim13]

Well, the part is only $50 if the v6 pressure metering valve can be used. I just did the swap last weekend, but ended up finding the backing plates are bent as hell, so bought new backing plates, etc. Everything is new on the rear swap except the calipers. If my car is not totaled, I'm going to get this part and see if it makes things better.

[es_fact]

You don't really need new backing plates as they basically do nothing :)

I'm going to just bang mine back into shape :) lol

[run1206]

You don't really need new backing plates as they basically do nothing :)

I'm going to just bang mine back into shape :) lol

agreed. my front backing plate is rubbing against the rotor, just bang it back a lil bit into proper form.

@tammi: would you know the part number for the v6 proportioning valve? maybe a pic of it?
i'm gonna check the Galant service manual to see if i can find it as well.
What place was it $50 at?

[mko]

IF youre gonna do the dual front calipers then you have to use the 8g Galant 3.0L 24V proportioning valve. If youre gonna stay with single pistons then Ill probably have a couple of these by tonite

[es_fact]

have a couple of what? calipers or valves? lol

How much? ( if valves)

[run1206]

IF youre gonna do the dual front calipers then you have to use the 8g Galant 3.0L 24V proportioning valve. If youre gonna stay with single pistons then Ill probably have a couple of these by tonite

i'll probably stay single piston for now, maybe will change to dual at the end of the year. let me know if you do have any prop valves available for the 8G, thanks :thumb:

[es_fact]

x2 :D:054:

[nyjets985]

I posted a tut... well kinda lol

I think you should PM peano and ask him. You don't really have to, but it IS way better for your front disks.

As for me... I've had the parts from MKO for about 1 month now. But I've done nothing with them until I'm able to figure out this problem.


ya ive had the setup from mko for a few months and still have yet to do it prolly next week me and my buddy are gunna tackle it ... but i would like to change the porportioning valve any ways even thought im gunna stay single piston ... if any body finds a place to get these cheap id rather go brand new with this part just to play it safe, as well braking is the most important function in a car lol

[mko]

Sorry guys but no prop valves for a couple of more days. I found a few of them ABS and non ABS, but they were located right behind the engine - very hard to reach on V6. Next time I go I promise Ill have them.

[es_fact]

Sorry guys but no prop valves for a couple of more days. I found a few of them ABS and non ABS, but they were located right behind the engine - very hard to reach on V6. Next time I go I promise Ill have them.

Yeah, how do they look? lol.. I mean how hard is it really going to be to ge this done?

[mko]

ill let you know when I get them. At least Ill have to remove the intake mani

[es_fact]

looks like a fun day at the junker commin' up for you man lol

keep us posted

[tamim13]

Well, I bought the proportioning valve for the 3.0L 2003 Galant. I didn't know that the 3.0L came with dual pistons still. I thought they stopped that in 99. Anyway, the part number is MB699551 and was $50 brand new from the dealer.
I noticed that there was a difference in my braking performance after swapping the valves. Earlier, I would notice that there was a lot more pressure on the front brakes after stopping, but after this change, the braking is a lot more smooth and balanced out. I'm not sure if it's my imagination.

I also bought the 3.0L e-brake cables from the dealer and swapped them out with the new backing plates, therefore I didn't have to make any mods to the backing plates. Just straight plug and play.

The only thing I noticed is after all this is, there's a strange popping sound from the back when I press the brakes now. I suspect that it might be air going through the drilled and slotted rotors from R1Concepts, but I'm not sure. I was told that it's a possibility because the rear rotors are so much thinner than the front ones and it might just be normal for drilled rotors. Anyone else notice this? You have to drive near another car or wall and slowly press the brakes with the window open to notice this sound.

[deeznutz]

I have a similar noise from my rears too i think it's the pad i used with my cross drilled

[stvn_mj]

I've had no problem or noise from mine.

[es_fact]

That's rather interesting... I want to get this valve done right away. How complicated is it for the e cable? lol... I rather drill the damn thing lol

[run1206]

Well, I bought the proportioning valve for the 3.0L 2003 Galant. I didn't know that the 3.0L came with dual pistons still. I thought they stopped that in 99. Anyway, the part number is MB699551 and was $50 brand new from the dealer.
I noticed that there was a difference in my braking performance after swapping the valves. Earlier, I would notice that there was a lot more pressure on the front brakes after stopping, but after this change, the braking is a lot more smooth and balanced out. I'm not sure if it's my imagination.

I also bought the 3.0L e-brake cables from the dealer and swapped them out with the new backing plates, therefore I didn't have to make any mods to the backing plates. Just straight plug and play.

The only thing I noticed is after all this is, there's a strange popping sound from the back when I press the brakes now. I suspect that it might be air going through the drilled and slotted rotors from R1Concepts, but I'm not sure. I was told that it's a possibility because the rear rotors are so much thinner than the front ones and it might just be normal for drilled rotors. Anyone else notice this? You have to drive near another car or wall and slowly press the brakes with the window open to notice this sound.

good to hear :thumb:
i'll try to get the valve and let you all know my results when I can. Hopefully the 3.0L valve can fit for the v6 rear brakes.

[GalantEVOII]

I have a problem getting both backing plates for my conversion.... anybody has or know where I can get them? The junkyards act like dummies when I ask for them and point them out to them.

[run1206]

I got mine from rez887, but check other junkyards to see if they can take them off for you.

[rez887]

I don't know about Fortworth, but in Dallas they won't sell you just the backing plates.

[mko]

im the guy to talk to about backing plates

[GalantEVOII]

I don't know about Fortworth, but in Dallas they won't sell you just the backing plates.

But I dont know why they just sold me the discs and calipers even after I asked them for the plates too....

[stvn_mj]

im the guy to talk to about backing plates

^There is your solution GalantEvo. He has gotten many people the parts needed for the rear disc swap including myself.

[GalantEVOII]

im the guy to talk to about backing plates

Shall we talk about it in PM??

[GalantEVOII]

^There is your solution GalantEvo. He has gotten many people the parts needed for the rear disc swap including myself.

Indeed. I sent him a PM a few days ago but that was before I had the parts. Now that I have the stuff from another ES 2.4L, I definitely can start making it all happen

[mko]

well if you need anything, LMK

[rocky 8g]

maybe i missed it but will 95 -99 eclipse rear rotors work to

[mko]

yes

[derrick]

can you just use the rear brakes off a G8 with rear disc breaks and put them on a G8 with drum drakes ?

[run1206]

you can but the E-brake wont fit, which is why you have to widen and grind down the side on the backing plate where the E-brake goes.

[derrick]

what do you need for the whole disc brake conversion?

[mrg7243]

ARTS List required for completing the upgrade
This was confusing for me at first because I wasnt sure if I needed the knuckle and brake assemblies or just the backing plate, etc etc....
So what I ended up doing was purchasing the entire rear axle assembly from a 2002 Eclipse GT. But the only parts that are necessary to complete the conversion are as follows(this is taking for granted that you get it from a 2000+ Eclipse GT, older models may be different);
1.) Backing plate
2.) Hydraulic Brake lines(NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH THE EBRAKE CABLES, YOU DO NOT NEED THE EBRAKE CABLES.)
3.) Caliper mounting bracket and mounting bolts (2 bolts per side)
4.) Calipers with mounting pins (2 pins per side)
5.) Pads (DUH!)
6.) Rotors (DUH!)
7.) Brake fluid, DOT3 or DOT4 is fine for our brake systems. A 32oz bottle is like $3.50 at pep boys and will be MORE than enough to flush and bleed your entire brake system.

OPTIONAL PARTS LIST;
1.) The hub assemblies from donor car
2.) Hub bolts (4 bolts per side) from donor ca

[tamim13]

ARTS List required for completing the upgrade
This was confusing for me at first because I wasnt sure if I needed the knuckle and brake assemblies or just the backing plate, etc etc....
So what I ended up doing was purchasing the entire rear axle assembly from a 2002 Eclipse GT. But the only parts that are necessary to complete the conversion are as follows(this is taking for granted that you get it from a 2000+ Eclipse GT, older models may be different);
1.) Backing plate
2.) Hydraulic Brake lines(NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH THE EBRAKE CABLES, YOU DO NOT NEED THE EBRAKE CABLES.)
3.) Caliper mounting bracket and mounting bolts (2 bolts per side)
4.) Calipers with mounting pins (2 pins per side)
5.) Pads (DUH!)
6.) Rotors (DUH!)
7.) Brake fluid, DOT3 or DOT4 is fine for our brake systems. A 32oz bottle is like $3.50 at pep boys and will be MORE than enough to flush and bleed your entire brake system.

OPTIONAL PARTS LIST;
1.) The hub assemblies from donor car
2.) Hub bolts (4 bolts per side) from donor ca

Optionally, if you want a direct bolt on, without modification of the ebrake cable inlet, you can get the ebrake cable of the v6 as well. Also, you can get the proportioning valve to make the braking smoother with disk brakes.

[run1206]

the list is provided in the first post of the tutorial. You could try the ebrake cable from a v6, i just used my i4 cable and modded from there, either way is your choice.

[twisted_galant]

I am getting ready to go up to the garage and do my conversion. I am going to change my metering/ proportioning valve as well. Since I didn't see any tuturials on this I was gonna make one during my build. I was just thinking about adding it on to this thread if that is ok with everyone? or should I start a new post?

[mrg7243]

you can start a new post, and if you PM a mod, he could merge the two together, so that way both tuts are side by side in one thread.

[run1206]

let me know when you finish adding your pics and text; i can add any additional parts for the proportioning valve to my thread.

[twisted_galant]

I finished my post... here is the link
https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?p=660160#post660160

[twisted_galant]

Got my conversion done... now just waiting on my buddy to finish work so we can bleed the system.
http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h429/twisted_galant/100_0280.jpg

[Night_neo2000]

sweet, ive been wondering for awhile on how to do this and looks perfect and a great night project for next weekend.

[Volta Pikachu]

thanks! this is a great tutorial (yea i know im late haha)

[run1206]

:lol: haven't been on here in a while. Yeah if my buddy and I knew what we were doing before-hand, the whole project would've taken a few hours tops. Real easy project, just make sure you have all the tools ready before you start anything.

[antraw]

sweet, ive been wondering for awhile on how to do this and looks perfect and a great night project for next weekend.

What type of brake assembly did u use?

Sent from my Dell Streak 7 using Tapatalk

[02galantes]

Hey everyone i have a quick question, we just did this swap over the weekend(i used a v6 parking brake line) after the swap the brakes work but im having issues with the parking brake now. I have to jam the lever all the way up for it to actually function. Was there something we missed when we did the swap?

Positioning wise everything is placed as it was

[Galantman03]

Did you adjust the emergency brake pads via a flat head screw driver through the rear disk?

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[02galantes]

Yes we adjusted it to be closer to the rotor( the shoes are worn out im aware and looking into to getting new ones to replace them) but I just want to make sure if there is anything else to order while im at it so I can get it done in one go

[Galantman03]

You can also adjust the e brake under the cup holder

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[keith6110]

I'd say the worn shoes alone will give you a lot of play before it works. I replaced mine awhile back and it works great again.