There goes my turbo.

[DJ Galant]

Well, car was doing fine for almost 2 weeks. Yestrday they put my 2.5 " exhaust, then later on the freeway, the engine service soon light came on, and trhe car started to shake like a mo-fo (was going about 80).
So I took it to the shop, and Tony said those are spark-plugs. So I went to the checkers, got NGK , spark plug set and came back to the shop.

FUCK!!!
He pooled up my old bosch platinum 4, and one of the spark plug had some aluminum on it, and obviously this is one of my valves melted....
We also check the compression, and one of the cylinders is way high ( like 26( i think).
Now, gotta wait till he finish other car, and then take a head of, take it to the machine shop, and put it back.

.................................................
The car shakes like a mo-fo, when idling, there is no boost when i am acclerating and can't go faster than 60 either........................

Why am i unlucky like that??????????????????????
I was happy with muyt turbo for 2 weeks, and now gotta wait and pill up some $$$$$$$$$$ to get my car fixed.................

Any suggestions, comments, help?????????????????????? :cry: :cry:

[RedGalant2k1]

How much boost were you puching again? 7psi? 8psi? Did you run colder plugs? Do you have a AFC? Did you do anything to lower compression?

Save money for at least forged pistons and rods, if possible. Contact AK1 he has JE Forged Pistons and Crower Forged Rods (I think?).

[Black2k1GTZ]

The first month or so that you have a Turbo in your car you really shouldnt gun the car at all...youve got to give it time to break in. But that sucks about the plugs...like Red said...definatly go with those colder wires...and an AFC will for sure help!!!!!!! Good luck though...

Marc :twisted:

[Mgalant99]

That really sucks, I'm sorry to hear that it happened. Hope everything works out fine.

[DJ Galant]

right now, i changed the plugs to ngk copper.
Well i guess, i didn;t know that it is crucial to change them.
I guess i will contact ak1 about that issue.I was only boosting 4psi.
Don't have AFC.

[VegasMatt]

I'll sell you an Apexi AFC for 328.00 + Shipping (From Orlando). I have 10 available. PM me if you are interested.

Matt

[Tiller]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DJ Galant)</div><div class='quotemain'>right now, i changed the plugs to ngk copper.
Well i guess, i didn;t know that it is crucial to change them.
I guess i will contact ak1 about that issue.I was only boosting 4psi.
Don't have AFC.</div>

at 4psi, something had to be WAY OFF, to melt a piston like that...! I'd look at whoever did the install... <span style='color:red'>because your fuel was totally fucked up somewhere... </span>
didn't you hear it detonating...? I mean to melt a piston, that bitch had to be knockin like a virgin on prom night...

[VegasMatt]

That what I was thinking, if you had the AFC you could have fixed this problem.
I just got my AFC today for when I do my headers install.

[DJ Galant]

what do y guys think about it???
Was it because of bad spark plugs (bosch platinum v4 ) or was it the fuel issue.???
I need help.
I really didn't hear anything detonating, all it was was a service engine soon Came on and a car lost the power, and startrtd to shake ( a little bit), when pressing gas it shakes.

I thought it was an air leak somewhere, so i checked for it and couldn't find it.
WHen i went back to the shop, and pop the hood, Tony said those are sparg plugs, and indeed he was right.
We changed them, and car was going the same, so we checked compression ( 3 of them where like on 9.5 and one on 26!!!).

Now, what the hell happened to my car and how to fix it???????//

[RedGalant2k1]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DJ Galant)</div><div class='quotemain'>what do y guys think about it???
Was it because of bad spark plugs (bosch platinum v4 ) or was it the fuel issue.???
I need help.
I really didn't hear anything detonating, all it was was a service engine soon Came on and a car lost the power, and startrtd to shake ( a little bit), when pressing gas it shakes.

I thought it was an air leak somewhere, so i checked for it and couldn't find it.
WHen i went back to the shop, and pop the hood, Tony said those are sparg plugs, and indeed he was right.
We changed them, and car was going the same, so we checked compression ( 3 of them where like on 9.5 and one on 26!!!).

Now, what the hell happened to my car and how to fix it???????//</div>

Get a AFC your fuel ratio musta been way outta wack like Tiller said. Do whatever you can to get a AFC, see it VegasMatt help you out he has 10 to sell. If the shop has no idea of why it happened find a new place to get the turbo fixed, and installed with a AFC properly. I don't know what it would be, hopefully Craig or manybrews sees this post and can help out.

[burthold]

fuel fuel fuel. Your computer doesn't know what to do with 4psi. It ran it very lean and very hot. You cannot run boost on a N/A car without some type of fuel management system. Can a mod make this sticky and let others read it? Would you write up your turbo story from beginning to end? I think it would be a valuable write up for other members. I am sorry its costing you more cash to get it all fixed. Help others learn.

Wes

[RedGalant2k1]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(burthold)</div><div class='quotemain'>Can a mod make this sticky and let others read it? Â*
Wes</div>

Done.

[DJ Galant]

ok, i will write the whole story,....just give me a day and i will psot it................................................ .................................................. ........................................ :cry:

Do u guys think if i fix my car this will happen again?????????????
What if i have cold plugs, my car will be fixed and i will get my sfac???????????
Will this shit happen again?????????

[AK1]

First of all, I'm sorry to hear that DJ Galant.

Now how should I put this...
Maybe I should begin by saying that to have your valves melt, if indeed that did happen, takes some really really bad tuning work if you're only running at 4psi boost. Unless you changed your compression, have a lemon motor to begin with or you drive you car like a madman and boost non-stop, on a fuel system with an upgraded pump and BOOST SENSITIVE FPR(like you said you have) there is no way you would get into this situation.

We have run 4psi on a 16G with stock injectors on a 4G64, no AFC, but just a fuel pump and fpr and have had no problems. We just couldn't get the most efficient HP numbers out of that setup but it never ran very lean. I don't know exactly how your turbo system is setup at all so I can't really tell you what they did wrong but apparently you were running very lean, I'm sure you know that much.

First thing I personally would do, is make sure your shop PAYS for this damage because they are responsible for this UNLESS they told you that you are doing it at your own risk. At the Horsepower House, we have a contract that says under normal circumstances after we datalog everything, if your motor does not last a certain mileage/years(ex. 30,000/2yrs) we will replace or repair it FOC.

Second thing I would do to be safe is get an AFC, get bigger injectors, get colder plugs, get an A/F gauge, an EGT gauge, and please, get somebody who knows how to tune a car.

You DO NOT need a rebuilt bottom end UNLESS you are going with more than 8psi boost or you are pushing 300hp or more under normal circumstances. If you have to resort to going with a built up bottom end to have your car withstand 4psi boost than something is seriously wrong. I repeat, if tuned right, there would be no problem holding boost with the 4g64 bottom end. I'm not saying it will last forever, but it definitely won't break in 2 weeks. When you start pushing high HP and running 8psi boost and so on, then get engine work done if not then you'll most likely bend/break a rod or shoot a rod thru the block, fry your rings, melt your pistons and so forth.

On a side note, did u ever have your stock injectors spray tested and did you ever have problems before ? Plug problems ? And what psi is your FPR pushing under boost conditions ? Could be a simple problem if your FPR is working the same under idle and boost. I sent you a private msg with information to contact us if you want to speak with somebody for more help and hopefully we can help you over the phone. It's very hard not knowing how your turbo was setup and not being able to see the numbers. Was it tuned on a dyno and data logged before you rolled it out? Just curious. I didn't on my first setup, but it's recommended that you do to prevent problems like this, or at least to prevent you from having to incur the costs to fix it. Truly, I'm sorry. :cry:

[DJ Galant]

Here it is.
Somebody wanted a whole story, well here it is.
This is the same lette I send to JR.
I have a 1999 Mitsubishi Galant Es 2.4 Liter (SOHC), automatic. Right now the car has about 40000 miles on it. I have always had taken care of my car.
I always wanted “more power� to make my car go faster, have more torque, etc. so I decided I will put a
Turbo set-up, because I hear that is the best and the safest way to go.

Recently I have put a turbo on the car.
My turbo set-up included.
• 16g TDO5 turbo,
• 2nd. Gen Mitsubishi Eclipse manifold
• Spearco front mount intercooler,
• Turbonetics delta mark II external wastgate,
• fuel regulator,
• Warlbro fuel pump,
• Auto-meter boost gauge,
• 2.5" exhaust,
• Apex'i twin blow off valve,
• Obx-r 4" air filter, with adapter for Mitsubishi
• Gready turbo Timer
• Automatic transmission cooler
• All the oil lanes, clamps, and other stuff

It wasn’t any of the bolt on kit, but rather it was custom.
The installation took 5 days, it was done in professional shop, and car was doing fine for about a week, since we put it on. It had plenty of power, quick acceleration, lost of more torque, and overall the car improved a lot.
For about a week, I didn't have my exhaust on (there was no down pipe on, nor any piping) - I know it is illegal, but we ha to do it because of no time available. My external wastagate had a 4 psi spring in it, and that is what I was boosting. There was plenty of power at 4psi.
Then finally, one day I had my 2.5� exhaust done – all the piping, down pipe is 2.5�, but I am running stock catalytic converter. The same night I was driving, on the freeway at about 80 mph, and the “engine service soon� light came on, and the car started to shake. The temperature gauge was normal.
Car has no boost, no power when accelerating, and shakes when I stop on the red light when it is on D (drive), but when I switch it to neutral, it shakes (vibrates) less.
I thought it was an air leak somewhere, so when I got home (I was driving slowly) I checked all the clams if they were tight and screwed properly. I couldn’t locate a possible air leak, so I decided to take back the car to the shop.
Next thing I did, the following morning, was that I took back my car to the performance shop, where I had my turbo installed.
The installer said it was bad spark pugs, and he told me to get a NGK copper sparks.
So I got a new set (got a set of NGK v-power spark plug), and later when the car cooled down, he started to check the old spark plugs.
One of them looked terrible bad (it was set of Bosch Platinum +4). It looked like the spark plug had aluminum on it, and the plug looked melted. When we replaced the pugs for NGK, I was hoping the car is going top be back to normal, but I was mistaken.
Installer said that that Bosch Platinum +4 spark plug had done some bad job for the motor.
Possibly my valves are melted, and who knows what else happened.
Next week, we are planning to take a head of, and then take it to the machine shop and fix it, then put it back on.

Now, I am little concerned about my situation.
My main question is what happen to the car, and why??
Was it my fault or the installer (when somebody installs a turbo kit on the car, shouldn’t they make sure I have the right spark plugs?).
Main biggest concern is now, if I get it fix, will this happen again?????
How can I prevent that from happening????????
Another question is, what is going to happen if let’s say motor is fixed and then I install Apex’i Super Air Fuel Controller can I boost it up to 7psi????
Will I be running more problems with my turbo set- up, or it will be fine????????
Will installing of forged pistons/rods help????????????
I don’t really have more money to put in to it, so I am really worried.
Please, anyone who is reading that and can answer my questions, contact me at:
[email protected]
Or send a private message.
Thanks for your help.


AK1:
As far as I am concerned I have never had my stock injectors spray tested and I didn't have problems before at all. I didn't hae problems with my injectors, either. Also, i don't know what psi is my FPR pushing under boost conditions. (How to check that?) What do you mean by "simple problem if your FPR is working the same under idle and boost."???- How to check that???
Thanks Ak1 for your input, I really appreciate that.

[AK1]

If your FPR is not referencing boost and increasing pressure say on a 1:1 ratio under boost conditions then you're just going to be running lean with all that air and not matching fuel quantity.

I'm surprised they didn't install an Air/Fuel gauge or an exhaust gas temp gauge. The first thing I would do is get one and clearly if you're not anywhere near 14.3-14.7 a/f then don't even attempt to boost because you're obviously hurting the motor. A simple A/F bar gauge will work to give you an estimation of whether you are running lean or rich not only IN BOOST but at idle. Also, an EGT will help alot as a secondary warning device besides just signalling you to stop boosting when exhaust temp gets way high. If you notice exhaust gas temp really high past the 9000 range most of the time, then you're running a very hot system and most likely, it's not tuned right. Get your oil and your fuel dialed in with all that air. Every single aspect is important when you go with forced induction so take all the neccessary precautions by installing those gauges to prevent yourself from detonation, turbo bearing failure, etc. I know it's alot of money, but sometimes putting in more money now, saves you alot more money in the future.

Oh, and you were asking about measuring fuel pressure output on your FPR in boost. Most shops should have fuel injection pressure gauges that will work with your FPR where you can make sure the FPR is not crapping out on you esp. in boost. It would greatly help if you had a dyno. Even just rollers. You emailed JR ? Even though he can't see your turbo setup and what really happened internally, I think he should be able to give you the next best course of action. Gluck bro.

[DJ Galant]

thank You again, ak1.
I will take it to some other performance shop to get it checked.
Also, have another question:
Does the SFAC works in the same way as air/fuel gauge ( i mean, i know it manage that, but does the safc shows what actual air/fuel gauge does?)
Yes, I have e-mailed JR.

[AK1]

No, the S-AFC will not function as an A/F gauge. It will only show you your Karman reading, RPM, Throttle, and Correction. The good thing about it though, is that you can display all at the same time. But no, sorry it won't show you your A/F ratio readout.

[Anonymous]

dj, you need the FPR, to raise the fuel pressure, you should also get new injectors, your problem is obviously fuel delivery, thats why i went with the Greddy Emanagement Fuel Managment Unit, you can increase the flow of injectors but i have 550cc injectors too though, with the greddy system you can adjust the injectors to flow whatever you want so i dont have to go full 550 injectors but if i boost high i can, i was gunna have it all done this week but i broke the air rods and had to pay to get that fixed, that set me back a ways...but yah, you need to handle the fuel, get some new injectors, stock eclipse gst injectors will help...and thats a cheaper way to go, you can get them used and just get them cleaned out...also, what are you doing to retard your timing, the greddy system will do that to, you gotta adjust your timing, do you really trust this guy? i mean i know hes a friend but he didnt set you up too safely, if you have any more questions ask away

[DJ Galant]

will the stock eclipse gst injectors fit our 4g64?????
Now, does the Greddy Emanagement Fuel Managment Unit works like sfac????????
How much is that unit ?????
What size of injectors do eclipses gst have anyway? 300 cc?
Also, do injectors have taken from auto gst or the one with manual
will do fine????
I didn't do anything with the timing, to be honest it is the first time that I hear about that?

[DJ Galant]

I didn't want to post a new topic, cuz really it is related to this one, so let me go ahead and ask somebody a question.



Who had his hooked up his SAFC correctly with running no problems with it???????????????????????????????????????????????? ??????????????
Any hints on that one???
The reason I am asking is , cuz I spoke with JR (an engineer at the Horsepower.com) and he said that unfortunatelly SFAC and 4g64 doesn't go in pai, nut he didn't say it directly. I guess he meant that after install he didn't have a luck with it. AK1- please tell me what he meant.
Anyone, he suggusted stand alone unit ( which I will never be able to afford) and that put me down again.... :cry:
Anyway, for those who have 4g64s, please let me know how the SFAC does it job done....
Also, anyone with the Greddy E-manage systems installed on his
4g64???

[AK1]

Hey DJ Galant,

Cheer up bro. Don't be too upset over it. The S-AFC will work, but it's not as effective or as responsive as a stand alone EMS. I am unfamiliar with GReddy's system because I have no experience with it, but it should be very similiar to all the other EMS/PMS out there.

JR said that because his goal is to basically get a 14.7 a/f all across the board or at least as close as possible. With the S-AFC, your job is going to be very hard. Plus, what he means is that if in the future you are going to be buying a Boost Controller, Turbo Timer, Nos Controller, Ignition Timing Control, A/F Controller, then you might as well buy a stand-alone and have it all plus you get full programming capabilities. It's just more effective, efficient and way more responsive if you're trying to get high horsepower and want your car to run just as good in idle as it would at high boost safely. You just need to have a trained professional to do it, don't give that kind of job to just anybody.

Just like the OBD II problem, the only true way to tune it would be to go with a stand-alone or revert back to OBD 1. Also one reason why you should purchase a 95 under Supra for example because 96 onwards they switched to OBD II. Also, they stopped using the 6-speed tranny...but that's a diff story. Computers get harder to trick and work with as they get quicker and more efficient. Technically, it's a good thing as it keeps you from hurting your motor, but when you are trying to get more HP and do big custom work on it, it's not your best friend. So we just rather junk the stock ECU and run our own.

To sum it up, the S-AFC will work ok but you aren't going to get your car running to it's fullest potential.

[DJ Galant]

tomorrow the car is taken to the shop....will let u know what's up when the head is gonna be out........

[Danger DANJ]

I know absolutely nothing about Turbos, but let me know if what I'm thinking could be true. The problems with DJ Galant's car started when he put his new exhaust system on, so could it be that the computer wasn't reading the proper air flow due to a misplaced sensor or something, therefore caused the engine to run too lean?

[AK1]

Possible indeed David. In fact, we have seen damage to cars with exhausts completely removed due to different factors like cold air rushing back in and causing bends and pretty serious damage once the car is shut off. I wouldn't consider it to be out of the ordinary, rare but very possible. Also, believe it or not but we have seen damage due to overheating when the exhaust is removed because of the excess heat that is not transferred to the rear and out of the car.

[DJ Galant]

for those who follow here is some updates.
Head was taken out, and here is the problem - piston ( i would call it number 4, cuz is the one on the very right when looking on it when you open your hood) is chipped and melted. The good news is that there is no signs of sctratches on the block....
Also the head is all right....was tested at the local machine shop (one of the valves though is a little bended (but as they said, is in normal condition). Though I am assuming there had to be some kind of detonation cuz my piston is bed.
There is two options:
Option A:
get stock piston, head gasket, replace it,
or
OPTION B:
get JE pistons (all four of them) and rings, get true mitsu head gasket ( i heard that as far as the aftermarket ones they really suck), replace it, get EGT, SFAC, Air/fuel ratio and put it back together and tune it..........


Option B seems to be more smarter way to go, once my head is out.......
Unfortunatelly Option B =$$$$, and right now I am really out of cash....


What do you guys think all about it...


I will take some pics as soon as I borrow dig. cam from Leo (he is in Diego now).....
AK1 - how much did u pay for your psitons and rings...????

[burthold]

Figgured it was a piston that got poped. Well, I would put the pistons in if you can. Rods too if that is possible. JE has pistons turned down to 8.5 compression. With all the little extras like an FPR and AFC you could turn the ol boost up untill the tranny dies. I would try to do it now though. Look at what it would cost to do all of this again.

Wes

[cdaw2001ES]

I don't think our motor has rods?. It's SOHC, just a Cam, rockers and Valves.

[BlueESV6]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(cdaw2001ES)</div><div class='quotemain'>I don't think our motor has rods?. It's SOHC, just a Cam, rockers and Valves.</div>

I think he means connecting rods..... been enjoying this thread and trying to learn the turbo lingo.

Here's a silly/ ignorant question. Why can't we just take the turbo parts off of an eclipse setup? It's factory and tested. Are they real different or big $$$$? https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif

Also what is the HP difference (gain) between factory non-turbo and factory turbo (I4 & V6)?

[DJ Galant]

i had that discussion before i got mine 16g...at firs that is what i thought...get the eclipse setup and i am done.
Discussion ( wish it was here, it was posted on the "old" delated board) provided some very important infos, I concluded to stay away from t-25 (85-99 eclipse/talon). I know 14b is all right though (91-94 talon/eclipse).
The intercoolers on talon suck ass, too ( not only they are side mounted).
Besides, all the piping (for example upper intercooler pipe )has to be done custom....
The only thing I have out of eclipse is the Exhaust Manifold and
4G63T O2 Sensor Housing.....
Here is the best web site found about 4g64 turbo:
this web site is the bomb....
http://www.4g64.150m.com/turbo.html ('http://www.4g64.150m.com/turbo.html')
Join the 4g64 group,too.
Thanks to that web, I learned a lot of shit, and found lot more information about our cars.........I found out also that we (4g64) have the same rods as 4g63t....that's really cool.

[VegasMatt]

Martin,
When do you get your car back from Tony?

Matt

[DJ Galant]

just ordered pistons today, gotta wait till they come, then put it back togethr , install some other parts, and that's it. I don't know excact date though.....hopefully next week.

[DJ Galant]

Thank you AK1 for doing me a favor with the pistons....

For the rest of you guys, I can tell you that it was a bitch to get my pistons. All of the companies around that I had called, told me that waiting time is 3 to 4 weeks. Imagine waiting 3-4 weeks for your only car that you have!!!!
Fortunately, Andrew (AK1) had an extra set of pistons and rings, that they were supposed to sell to somebody, but thanks to him he asked that person if I can get buy them of him and fortunately everything went smooth.
Sweet....
Just waiting for the pistons now....the are somewhere on the way to Vegas....
I will let you know what is going on later on...

[Auto-9]

Man...have you read the current issue of Car and Driver where they test all the tuner cars? Seems a turboed IS 300 had your problem too...knocked out a cylinder when it ran too lean, didn't get much of a chance to show off its power.

[DJ Galant]

My problem wasn't running too lean, though.
As Tony spoke with Dough's Dynopwer, the problem was defeniatly caused by the hot spark plugs that I had installed.
Also, is there a link on their web (caranddriver), so that I can read about it???
What's is the name of the article, and excately what number of the Car and Driver is it (August or September issue)??

[VegasMatt]

Did you get your car back yet? The AFC should be in soon. If you need it sooner I will give you mine then take the one I ordered.

Let me know or call me.
Matt

[DJ Galant]

Just talked to Tony, pistons are installed, but i am waiting for my motor head that is in the machine shop (they replace the valve) and then he is going to put it back together, install the gauges, safc and then tune it...
i hope everything is going to be all right...

[VegasMatt]

I'll see you this morning Martin when you pick up the AFC.
FloDogg should be here, I am clearing his lights for him around 10.
Bring breakfast.

Matt

[DJ Galant]

new update:
pisons that were installed are sticking of the engine block, about 1/4 of an inch....................it is bad............................................... ..........................................
we trying to find solution (like bigger head gasket) and the cause (possible bad pistons that were send out to me)............................................... ................................................
waiting for the response from AK1 that I just contacted over the phone and pm. Andrew, JR and Tony is my only hope now................
I hope AK1 is going to take care of me...
Plese help!!!!!!!!!111 https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif

[Spyder4G64t]

I got contacted privately about this matter via email, and was asked to give my opinions about the problems encountered with his turbo install. Since this thread is getting set to "sticky," I'll post my responce here as well for all to see.
------------------------------------------------

You didn't install larger injectors... No SAFC, and NO EGT. Those were your mistakes. Did you read through my website (listed in my signature?)In there, I talk about the ECU bug that fried my piston. If you don't have a datalogger to watch your fuel trims, this will happen again. READ my turbo install pages, then read them again.

You likely had the same thing happen. Your car went waaaay too lean, and the detonation fried (melted) your piston. You can NOT have the thing running lean at any kind of boost levels.

I also mention putting in cooler spark plugs, as the stock heat range is too hot for a turbo'ed 4G64. I believe the stock plugs are BKR5E-11's, correct? If so, then you need a BKR7E gapped to .030" instead of what the manual calls for. This would not have caused your problem, but it doesn't help things either.

You *NEED* an EGT to make sure that doesn't happen again. If you don't think you would look at it enough, get one with a warning light set to 900 degrees Celcius (1650 degrees F.). You CAN NOT run a turbo on these cars with stock internals without one.

As far as your pistons go... I'm afraid I have no clue. I do NOT have JE pistons in my car. I have the factory 9.5:1 stock pistons. My entire bottom end is stock, as is the SOHC head.

As far as reliability... My car has been running with a turbo on it for around 9 months now. It's been VERY reliable. I'm running 10psi boost with my setup (my whole setup is listed on my website). As long as you keep the engine settings where they need to be, you'll be fine. Tuning is the entire key to keeping things running well.

[Spyder4G64t]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DJ Galant)</div><div class='quotemain'>new update:
pisons that were installed are sticking of the Â*engine block, about 1/4 of an inch....................it is bad............................................... ..........................................
we trying to find solution (like bigger head gasket) and the cause (possible bad pistons that were send out to me)</div>
My god man... Don't fool around. :shock: Pull those pistons out of there right away. You can't compensate for pistons that are WRONG. Get the right ones. Heck, go back to using stock pistons. They work fine at lower boost levels. I'm running 10psi on mine with NO problems.

[Spyder4G64t]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(AK1)</div><div class='quotemain'>If your FPR is not referencing boost and increasing pressure say on a 1:1 ratio under boost conditions then you're just going to be running lean with all that air and not matching fuel quantity. Â*
</div>FWIW, the stock fuel pressure regulator on the 4G64 Spyder engine is a 1:1 rising rate unit. I did not have to change it for my turbo install. It works great. Base pressure is also higher than a turbo model car. It's 48 instead of 42. I get 60psi fuel pressure at 10psi boost. It would fit a galant fuel rail, if you wanted to get one. They are under $50 brand new from the dealership (part number MD322829).

[DJ Galant]

thanks Curt for your input, i appraciate that.
i will keep you guys updated as far as my car....
i send the pictures (friday evening) to AK1 with my stickingo out pistons, but i didn't get no respond yet (saturday afternoon). I am wiating till they contact me or Tony, and then we will go from there...

[AK1]

Martin,

I have emailed JE the pictures on your behalf. That is what they have requested before they take any action on the pistons. Tony(From JE) will call me back ASAP when he decides what the best course of action will be.

My own opinion is that JE didn't set the wrist pins deep enough but that's my personal guess. Regardless, as soon as JE gets back to us we will let u know. Do NOT attempt to use a bigger head gasket to fix the problem. When he put the first piston in, he should have cranked it to check before putting in the other 3. But that's besides the point. Hang in there, we'll let u know whatever we find out asap.

[DJ Galant]

Thank U Andrew for letting me know what's up.
I am waiting till you guys contact me...
Thanks again...
Martin

[DJ Galant]

still waiting andrew.. for u to contact me

[Mitsiman]

To be honest I didn't read through every post but here is some info for anyone putting a turbo kit on any car.

(A) It doens't matter how little you boost a car you should always look to feed some extra fuel somewhere. Even if it is as little as a rising rate fpr unit and an extra injector or something.

Your failure problems are purely and simply a cause of running lean. No other reason. At 4 psi it was probably running lean enough to do it slowly over time but not quite enough to do it all at once.

I woudl suggest for anyone doing a turbo upgrade to do the min of

(A) Larger injectors - RPW has 300cc injectors direct bolt in replacement with no resistance problems etc

(https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/cool.gif Rising Rate FPR unit - set fuel pressure to at least 45 psi from standard 38 psi

© Piggy back computer to recalibrate fuel and IGNITION Curves if possible as well.

Colder spark plugs one heat range are also a definite must do.

David Thomas
www.rpw.com.au

[DJ Galant]

New Uptade about My 4g64T:
New pistons are waiting for me in Kentucky (thanks to Andrew), so i
should have them here in Las Vegas next week.
I am going to send bad JE Pistons on Monday to Kentucky, and as soon as they get it, they will send me the new JE Pisons.....
Can't wait till that day...


I GOT A QUESTION FOR THOSE WHO KNOW:

I was just curius if you know if I can install 1 gen eagle talon "big"
connecting rods. I have set of 4 sitting at home, and since I don't have the
money for eagle or crower rods, I thought maybe those would work instead of my
stock rods. Maybe the machine shop can shave them a little and I can get
different bearing or something (it is just my common sense thinking).
I am curius also, if you know what measurments are 4g64 rods,and if you know
how much hp they are able to sustain.

[Spyder4G64t]

[bump]

So, how is the project going? Any updates?

[DJ Galant]

well, there is a good news...
i send the bad pistons back to KY, and on friday i got in mail the good ones.
So, i took it to the shop on saturday...and now i gotta wait till everything has to be re-installed. What sucks about the whole thing is that machine shops here in Vegas seem to take their sweet time to get the shit done. I was waiting a week to disconect the rods from the pistons, and now I hope it won't take that long to connect them back....
Besides that, my 310cc fuel injecors, safc, dual boost contoller, cold spark plugs, gauges (EGT and air/fuel ratio) and whole bunch of other shit needs to be installed as well.
Hope to get my car back ASAP....
I'll keep you uptated.... :wink:

[Kwiksix]

I feel your pain man!
Just got my car back wed.
Had my motor apart,bad piston but it was worth the wait.
It made me love the car even more than I did.

[DJ Galant]

hey Kwiksix
i am curius what kind of turbo do u have.....
which piston was bad?
what kind of turbo do you have?
what kind of piston did u install (new one)?
did u changet hem ALL or u just replaced the bad one?

[Kwiksix]

Did you get my pm.

[DJ Galant]

yep folks, it took about 3 months to get my g-ride out of the shop....
car started up with no problems after new set of forged JE pistons was installed. We changed some pipings here and there, EGT is hooked up, so is mine SAFC. Still waiting for bigger injectors, and my cold spark plugs have arrived today.
So far no problems, I check on the oil and water evreyday, just to be on the safe side. It is great to have my car back. So much of the wait can put you down, and I don't wish that to anyone on this board...
I will keep u uptaded how evrything goes, right now I am "breaking" in the pistons.
Probably in two weeks from now, I will take the car to the dyno to see the numbers at the wheels. I will see some of you at the LAs Vegas meeting....Take care..

[HeadAche]

yep folks, it took about 3 months to get my g-ride out of the shop....
car started up with no problems after new set of forged JE pistons was installed. We changed some pipings here and there, EGT is hooked up, so is mine SAFC. Still waiting for bigger injectors, and my cold spark plugs have arrived today.
So far no problems, I check on the oil and water evreyday, just to be on the safe side. It is great to have my car back. So much of the wait can put you down, and I don't wish that to anyone on this board...
I will keep u uptaded how evrything goes, right now I am "breaking" in the pistons.
Probably in two weeks from now, I will take the car to the dyno to see the numbers at the wheels. I will see some of you at the LAs Vegas meeting....Take care..

Good job on the Ride bro, hope everything works out for you from now on.. can hardly wait to see the numbers when u get the dyno test.

[DJ Galant]

bigger injectors (denso 550cc) are installed....
the car is being tuned now with my safc....
evrything is working properly...I satrted to boost the mo-fo, too. No problems so far....
I love it....
It was all worthed the wait.

[DJ Galant]

my galant was running so beatutiful today at the 2.7-up rpm range, with open exhaust.........though i have to admitt - my agressor is not tunedf right in the 900 to 2700 rpm range. It hassitates, has some idle problem - due to improper tuning and open exhaust....
i will try to tune it right (well - not me - tony will) asap.
i think i am running too rich cuz when we were tuning it - the same was happening in th higher rpm range, though when we were at the freeway we got the right settings......but we forgot about the low rmp range.....
Love the turbo though......

[Moosh]

Hey. How is your car doing? Did you ever take it to a dyno?

Moosh

[DJ Galant]

is doing good...though i am on stage where we will do some serious tuning...cuz i am untuned for now..Dyno with the hot engine was 140 whp at 5.5 psi (low compression pistons).
Dyno guy says 5 hours of tuning will bring it up to 200s...
Cost of that operation 5*$150 an hour = $750 plus other fees.
Still collecting the mula...
do a search cuz i did a faq page too....

[HeadAche]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DJ Galant)</div><div class='quotemain'>is doing good...though i am on stage where we will Â*do some serious tuning...cuz i am untuned for now..Dyno with the hot engine was 140 whp at 5.5 psi (low compression pistons).
Dyno guy says 5 hours of tuning will bring it up to 200s...
Cost of that operation 5*$150 an hour = $750 plus other fees.
Still collecting the mula...
do a search cuz i did a faq page too....</div>

Good luck on the dyno and gettin the dough together i got my fingers crossed for ya..

[galantrider]

is doing good...though i am on stage where we will do some serious tuning...cuz i am untuned for now..Dyno with the hot engine was 140 whp at 5.5 psi (low compression pistons).
Dyno guy says 5 hours of tuning will bring it up to 200s...
Cost of that operation 5*$150 an hour = $750 plus other fees.
Still collecting the mula...
do a search cuz i did a faq page too....

Good luck on the dyno and gettin the dough together i got my fingers crossed for ya..

be very careful... a whole lot of people blew their engines out on the dyno...