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View Full Version : Lash ajuster trouble NEED HELP!!, Video sound clip!!



Galant Evolution
11-28-2009, 04:24 PM
So this morning i decided to try an attempt to fix the ticking lifters. I prepared three pans filled with desil fuel, one for outside cleaning, one for inside cleaning and the last one to charge the lifter with the desil fuel and put back into the car. So everything was cleaning up real well! lots of nasty shit coming out. I made sure i did the exhaust side first, then the intake so i wouldnt mix them up. Put em back in the way they came out, and im thinking everything is going to sound great. I start it up and legit it sounds like a desil truck. Im nervous. Mitsubishi told me to fill them all up with desil fuel and put em back into the car that way, i thought it was weird but what do i know. I dont know what to do now. I was thinking maybe an oil change? Here is the video clip. http://tinypic.com/r/v4sbi9/6

RedLine DOHC
11-28-2009, 05:00 PM
I would have filled them oil... never would have thought about diesel for priming them.

mko
11-28-2009, 05:02 PM
Damn, thats loud.

Well, Ive never heard of using diesel to clean the lifters - Ive always used sea foam. Put some sea foam in the oil. And as far as I know youre not supposed to fill them up - it may bend the valves when they pre-filled. Did you use a paper clip to collapse the lifter and then place it in solvent/sea foam/ and pump it and then place it in another container with oil and pump it again and then drain it so they have a layer of oil in them.

They are supposed to make that noise for 30 -40 min after first start.

Check out vfaq. com /DSM for how to exactly do this

SPD_FRK
11-28-2009, 05:32 PM
Diesel fuel is used because it can acti as a cleaning solvent as well as a lubricant since it is more oil based. The FSM also directs you to use diesel fuel for outside, inside, and filling in section 11B-28.

If you cleaned the lash adjuster, and it is this much worse I have to wonder how hard to you pushed the wire in. The ball spring is really weak so you don't have to push very hard, and if you do it basically screws up the sping inside so it will "bleed out" any pressure inside which will cause the same symptoms you have now.

Galant Evolution
11-28-2009, 05:33 PM
This is the procedure i did. I prepared three bowls, all filled with desil fuel. Fist container i did outside cleaning with a nylon brush. Second bowl i submerged the lifter in the desil fuel and used a paper clip and pumped the lifter until all the dirty oil was out, after about 15 pumps, it moved smoothly. I then took the lifter out of the desil fuel and i pumped it again until all the desil fuel was out. Then with it empty i submerged it into the third container and pumped it full with desil fuel then while it is charged i pushed down on lifter with my fingers making sure the plunger does not move when charged. Then charged with desil fuel i put the lifters back into the rocker arms. The manual clearly said to pump the lifter full with feul and while charged put back into the rocker arms. I dont think that makes sense because desil acts as a de-greeser and im putting it into a part that needs oil. But thats what i did i followed the directions. I think tomorrow im going to do it over again but change the oil and clean the lifter with desil fuel but charge it with oil, do you think that will work?

Galant Evolution
11-28-2009, 05:36 PM
the spring was not pushed in hard at all, at first it was sort of stiff but as the old oil came out it freeed up but if i broke the spring, when i charged it with the desil fuel i would have been able to press the plunger with my fingers and it would bleed but it didnt happen. it held the pressure, and its weird the car drives perfectly normal.


http://i50.tinypic.com/53pfv7.jpg
I just took it apart again just the valve cover and i realized how much of a dummy i am, on the intake side (the screws are out) next to the hole where the screw would go (larger one) there is a smaller hole there i think for oil, because the hole on the shaft lines up with the small hole on the block, i screwed that on backwards so maybe it wasnt getting any oil? so i rotated it so the hole lined up with the one on the block and still same noise. Do you think since it didnt get oil i broke the lifters?

SPD_FRK
11-28-2009, 06:15 PM
Diesel fuel is oil folks...its a lubricant more than a cleaner...believe me I work in the diesel industry.

I will have to read through the FSM again and see what it says about the spring if it was damaged. I just skimmed over it quick to double check a couple things you mentioned...but beyond that with what you did I can't place my finger on anything done outside of the FSM stated procedures

Galant Evolution
11-28-2009, 06:32 PM
UPDATE***** problem fixed, it turned out to be the rocker arm shaft was not reciving any oil because the hole was not lined up. Ticking went away after 3 min of driving! Thanks guys for all the help and input! How long until it ticks again? lol How often should i bleed the lifters to avoid ticking again though? Or should it never tick again if i keep up on the oil changes?

SPD_FRK
11-28-2009, 06:43 PM
lol oil supply is gooood. Glad you figured it out man.

They probably won't need to be bled/cleaned again for quite a while as long as you keep up with oil change intervals.

stvn_mj
11-28-2009, 06:46 PM
So is it totally quiet? Take a vid of the difference I might do this since I have to replace my timing belt I might do this as well while I am at it.

Galant Evolution
11-28-2009, 06:52 PM
So is it totally quiet? Take a vid of the difference I might do this since I have to replace my timing belt I might do this as well while I am at it.

Give me a few min and ill post up a new vid, its completely quiet now!!

Galant Evolution
11-28-2009, 07:45 PM
BEFORE: http://tinypic.com/r/v4sbi9/6

AFTER: http://tinypic.com/r/2ed17pj/6 soooo much better!

99mitsu
12-06-2009, 05:28 PM
My wifes G sounded the same way yours did after I added seafoam. Then I had her drive it for a week then I changed the oil in it, I used castoral high milage and a Wix filter then topped off the gas with premium and now it is like it was when it was brand new. It is wierd I used a wix filter and sea foam before but it never made this much of a difference but im not complaining. A lady at the local napa told me this is what she does with her G and it worked for her and me both so now im hooked.

seth98esT
12-06-2009, 07:01 PM
Just buy the revised 3mm lifters.
http://www.store.partsdinosaur.com/product405.html

$96.

Shadow19
12-06-2009, 09:10 PM
WOAH! Dude totally! I did that shit before and MAN is that some LOUUUUUUD shit!

Galant Evolution
12-06-2009, 10:25 PM
^^ yeah it was rediculous!! but no probs so far!

Shadow19
12-07-2009, 08:15 PM
well when i did mine both sides werent oiling.. if you can imagine that one. I didnt know anything about it and it was my first time building a motor... Still runs so id say i did pretty good.

Galant Evolution
12-08-2009, 10:09 AM
haha if it still runs then thats all that matters!

tamim13
05-15-2010, 11:41 PM
Just buy the revised 3mm lifters.
http://www.store.partsdinosaur.com/product405.html

$96.

You had mentioned that there are revised lifters for the i4 8g and had given a link to it. I checked the site and they are selling an alternative now. Rock parts LIF101. Will these solve the trouble with our ticking lifters? Or is it better to go OEM? Let me know please, as I plan to get this done.

Also, what do you mean by revised lifters? What is really different with this and what is available OEM?

varroa
05-16-2010, 12:50 AM
if anybody needs OEM lash adjusters, i have two for sale, brand new in factory packaging, $50 shipped (or $25 each shipped). i paid $30 for each at the local dealership =0(

also, after i cleaned all 16 lash adjusters twice - first with diesel fuel, second time (a couple of thousand miles later) with clean engine oil, they don't stick any more. also i try to run the OEM oil filters.

so maybe if you do that (it's very cheap to do, just about $10 total for the shop towels, a 1/2 gallon of diesel fuel, a few plastic cups) and use OEM oil filters, your problem will go away, too. or if it doesn't, during cleaning you should find a couple of the lifters stuck. after you clean them, they will unstick but can easily stick again later. but if you remember or write down the exact position of the sticky lash adjusters, you can later replace just those and not all of them.

tamim13
05-16-2010, 10:41 PM
^^ You've mentioned OEM oil filters? Do you mean OEM lifters? How does an oil filter help in the lifters getting stuck?

Thanks for the info though, I was thinking that if this is a common problem with the Galant, and that there are revised lifters, it's worth actually changing all of them, since it only costs about $100.

varroa
05-18-2010, 12:11 AM
yeah i meant OEM oil filters. mitsubishi dealerships recommend that, and also on practice i found that OEM oil filters somehow allow for better oil flow or something like that, but the lifters tick less that way.

Sphinx
05-27-2010, 10:26 PM
I have a friend of a friend who is a Nissan dealer tech and he quoted me $250 to replace lifters, labor only.
How's that sound?

Sphinx