Prophet
12-04-2009, 09:48 AM
Note: original author is underated4g64
Note: Galant Forums.com Refrence: Click Here (http://www.dnaelite.com/gf/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=91&t=7557)
Mitsubishi Outlander Intake Manifold Swap for the 99-03 Galant
Why:
The OEM 99-03 galant de/es 4cyl intake manifolds are known to crack due to wear and vibration which causes vacuum leaks and for those with turbo, boost leaks. The leaks cause driving issues like poor gas mileage, stalling and increased emissions.
Tools:
Assorted sockets and wrenches (basic sizes) 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm
Extensions for 3/8th and ¼
Swivel sockets if possible make the bolts under the manifold easier
Sealant (for reinstalling the water neck)
Blade
Carb and choke cleaner or brake cleaner
Sewing needle
Screwdriver (Philips)
18 gauge wire (color is up to you)
Non insulated butt connectors or solder
Shrink tubing
Gasket sealant
Parts:
Try to get the complete assembly but if you have to piece them together you will need
From Outlander:
Manifold
Throttle body
Manifold support
Throttle position sensor (galant sensor will not work) (MD628074)
From Galant:
Oil dipstick tube and gauge
Reuse all other sensors other then the throttle position sensor
You can use either the galant or the outlander:
Injectors *NOTE* This information maybe wrong. You might only be able to use the Galant infectors: Click Here (https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?p=677145#post677145)
Fuel rail
Fuel pressure regulator
New:
Intake manifold gasket (MD420945)
Disassembly:
Relieve fuel pressure by removing the fuel pump relay (located in the fuse box under the hood)turn the car on and let it run till it stops by itself, be sure to replace relay when done
Drain coolant (I can’t stress this enough if you don’t you WILL have a floor full of coolant) even though you don’t touch the radiator the throttle body does have coolant running through it and you will need to pull the lower radiator hose and water neck off later to access bolts on the manifold
Remove the hood (trust me it helps) (4) 12mm bolts Remove the battery from the car (frees up space to work)
Remove the whole intake piping from the throttle body and place it aside, use the socket that is right for your piping.
Unbolt throttle position sensor, absolute manifold pressure sensor, ignition failure sensor unplug EGR connectors, and unbolt the grounding cable. Unclip the fuel injector connectors. (Be sure to replace the bolts after you remove the sensors so you don’t loose them)
Disconnect throttle cable from the throttle body by removing the (2) bolts on the valve cover and the (2) on the throttle adjustment plate to give some slack. Push the throttle lever down like your opening it and push the cable through and to the side to free it from the lever. You might have to remove the throttle body to get enough slack if so, disconnect the (2) vacuum lines on top of the TB, then unclamp the feed and return coolant lines from the
TB, then remove the (4) bolts holding it to the manifold they are 12mm bolts.
Remove hoses connecting to the manifold; remove the vacuum hose coming from the brake booster.
Once you have the cable off you can jack up the car (BE SURE TO USE JACKSTANDS ON BOTH SIDES OF THE CAR) it would be best to raise it pretty high because its tight space under there. Remove the exhaust piping if you need to my arms are pretty long and I was able to get around in there without removing the exhaust piping.
Once under the car you will see a rectangular bracket (manifold support bracket) it is held on by (4) bolts all 14mm remove them and remove the bracket. There is a wire loom connected to the bracket, unclip that also. Once you removed the bracket there are (4) 12mm bolts that you will be able to access
remove those
Now back on top of the car start on the passenger side there is one 12mm bolt on the far corner, 3 12mm nuts across the top of the manifold flange, and (3) 12mm bolts in a triangle configuration that hold on the water neck on the driver side of the car 2 you can see 1 you cant you have to feel underneath for it.
Now unbolt the fuel feed line from the fuel rail, and disconnect the return line form the fuel pressure regulator. (Have a rag handy to catch excess fuel left over after the depressurizing step earlier) if you didn’t do that step you will have a lot of fuel coming out now
Unclip the connecter from the coolant temp sensor on the Water neck. Unclip the clamp on the lower radiator hose that connects to the water neck also. Now pull the water neck while making rotating motions and it will come off. (Be careful with the o-ring still on the water pipe) cleanout the sealant in the little groove of the neck, place the water neck aside for now
The manifold should move a little by now. DOUBLE CHECK ALL HOSES, CONNECTORS, WIRES, SENSORS ARE FREE FROM THE MANIFOLD BEFORE PROCEEDING
CAREFULLY REMOVE THE MANIFOLD FROM THE HEAD, BE CAREFUL NOT THE DAMAGE THE THREADS ON THE 3 STUDS BY SLIDING THE MANIFOLD OFF.
Wiring:
Locate the throttle position connector. Cut the 3 wires about and inch or 2 away from the connector to give you enough wire to work with. Add about 3-4 inches of wire between the 2 sections because the outlander sensor is on the firewall side of the manifold now.
Next locate the 2 clips for the EGR connections (black and brownish-red clips) 2 wires each. These to will have to be made substantially longer because the clips are now on the passenger side instead of on the drivers’ side. So add about 5-6 inches to the 4 wires.
Locate the throttle position sensor again and notice the color and location of the wires in the connecter. If you place the 2 sensors face up (part that connects to throttle body) the galant sensor will have 2 pins on the left then a space then one pin (--x-), the outlander will have 1 pin n the left then a space and 2 on the right (-x--). So now that you notice the difference you will have to remove the wire from the connecter using the sewing needle and rearrange them. The black wire goes to the single pin, the brown/white wire goes on the middle pin and the green/white goes to the other outside pin then reconnect the clip to the sensor.
Wiring all done, not too bad right
Reassembly:
This is pretty easy if you took my advice about putting the bolts back in there place if you are going to use the outlander fuel rail and injectors then you don’t have much to do, if you are going use your stock components then now is the time to switch them over
Next put the new intake manifold gasket back on the head
Reinstall the manifold
Hold the manifold while you secure the manifold with the old bolts and nuts (finger tight)
Connect the EGR clips to there sensors they are color coded and they only go on one way so it’s pretty easy. Bolt up the TPS to the manifold.
Reconnect the fuel injector clips
Hook up the FPR to the small vacuum port on the left side of the new manifold
Reconnect the brake booster vacuum line to the manifold
Bolt the ground cable back up to the manifold
Reconnect the coolant hoses to the throttle body
Reconnect the throttle cable to the TB
Get back under the car and reinstall the manifold bracket (4) 14mm bolts
Now you can fill the groove inside the water neck with a gasket making sealant and reinstall it with the (3) 12mm bolts
Torque down the intake manifold bolts and nuts to the factory specs
Bolt up the fuel feed line and clamp down the fuel return line
Now some custom fab work you will have to bend the galant oil dip stick to fit the outlander tube is too short and does not come close to the mounting point when used on the galant. Use an L bracket to secure the tube to the head.
Make sure all coolant and vacuum lines have some type of clamp on them to get rid of leaks there is nothing worse then finishing up a project and finding out you have to take stuff apart again to fix a small mistake that could have been avoided.
Double, triple, quadruple check EVERYTHING you touched during the install once you are sure everything is in its place Start the car. AND YOU ARE DONE
Here are some pictures during the install
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a268/DryBear/8G%20Diagrams/MitsubishiOutlanderIntakeManifol-1.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a268/DryBear/8G%20Diagrams/MitsubishiOutlanderIntakeManifoldSw.jpg
Note: Galant Forums.com Refrence: Click Here (http://www.dnaelite.com/gf/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=91&t=7557)
Mitsubishi Outlander Intake Manifold Swap for the 99-03 Galant
Why:
The OEM 99-03 galant de/es 4cyl intake manifolds are known to crack due to wear and vibration which causes vacuum leaks and for those with turbo, boost leaks. The leaks cause driving issues like poor gas mileage, stalling and increased emissions.
Tools:
Assorted sockets and wrenches (basic sizes) 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm
Extensions for 3/8th and ¼
Swivel sockets if possible make the bolts under the manifold easier
Sealant (for reinstalling the water neck)
Blade
Carb and choke cleaner or brake cleaner
Sewing needle
Screwdriver (Philips)
18 gauge wire (color is up to you)
Non insulated butt connectors or solder
Shrink tubing
Gasket sealant
Parts:
Try to get the complete assembly but if you have to piece them together you will need
From Outlander:
Manifold
Throttle body
Manifold support
Throttle position sensor (galant sensor will not work) (MD628074)
From Galant:
Oil dipstick tube and gauge
Reuse all other sensors other then the throttle position sensor
You can use either the galant or the outlander:
Injectors *NOTE* This information maybe wrong. You might only be able to use the Galant infectors: Click Here (https://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthread.php?p=677145#post677145)
Fuel rail
Fuel pressure regulator
New:
Intake manifold gasket (MD420945)
Disassembly:
Relieve fuel pressure by removing the fuel pump relay (located in the fuse box under the hood)turn the car on and let it run till it stops by itself, be sure to replace relay when done
Drain coolant (I can’t stress this enough if you don’t you WILL have a floor full of coolant) even though you don’t touch the radiator the throttle body does have coolant running through it and you will need to pull the lower radiator hose and water neck off later to access bolts on the manifold
Remove the hood (trust me it helps) (4) 12mm bolts Remove the battery from the car (frees up space to work)
Remove the whole intake piping from the throttle body and place it aside, use the socket that is right for your piping.
Unbolt throttle position sensor, absolute manifold pressure sensor, ignition failure sensor unplug EGR connectors, and unbolt the grounding cable. Unclip the fuel injector connectors. (Be sure to replace the bolts after you remove the sensors so you don’t loose them)
Disconnect throttle cable from the throttle body by removing the (2) bolts on the valve cover and the (2) on the throttle adjustment plate to give some slack. Push the throttle lever down like your opening it and push the cable through and to the side to free it from the lever. You might have to remove the throttle body to get enough slack if so, disconnect the (2) vacuum lines on top of the TB, then unclamp the feed and return coolant lines from the
TB, then remove the (4) bolts holding it to the manifold they are 12mm bolts.
Remove hoses connecting to the manifold; remove the vacuum hose coming from the brake booster.
Once you have the cable off you can jack up the car (BE SURE TO USE JACKSTANDS ON BOTH SIDES OF THE CAR) it would be best to raise it pretty high because its tight space under there. Remove the exhaust piping if you need to my arms are pretty long and I was able to get around in there without removing the exhaust piping.
Once under the car you will see a rectangular bracket (manifold support bracket) it is held on by (4) bolts all 14mm remove them and remove the bracket. There is a wire loom connected to the bracket, unclip that also. Once you removed the bracket there are (4) 12mm bolts that you will be able to access
remove those
Now back on top of the car start on the passenger side there is one 12mm bolt on the far corner, 3 12mm nuts across the top of the manifold flange, and (3) 12mm bolts in a triangle configuration that hold on the water neck on the driver side of the car 2 you can see 1 you cant you have to feel underneath for it.
Now unbolt the fuel feed line from the fuel rail, and disconnect the return line form the fuel pressure regulator. (Have a rag handy to catch excess fuel left over after the depressurizing step earlier) if you didn’t do that step you will have a lot of fuel coming out now
Unclip the connecter from the coolant temp sensor on the Water neck. Unclip the clamp on the lower radiator hose that connects to the water neck also. Now pull the water neck while making rotating motions and it will come off. (Be careful with the o-ring still on the water pipe) cleanout the sealant in the little groove of the neck, place the water neck aside for now
The manifold should move a little by now. DOUBLE CHECK ALL HOSES, CONNECTORS, WIRES, SENSORS ARE FREE FROM THE MANIFOLD BEFORE PROCEEDING
CAREFULLY REMOVE THE MANIFOLD FROM THE HEAD, BE CAREFUL NOT THE DAMAGE THE THREADS ON THE 3 STUDS BY SLIDING THE MANIFOLD OFF.
Wiring:
Locate the throttle position connector. Cut the 3 wires about and inch or 2 away from the connector to give you enough wire to work with. Add about 3-4 inches of wire between the 2 sections because the outlander sensor is on the firewall side of the manifold now.
Next locate the 2 clips for the EGR connections (black and brownish-red clips) 2 wires each. These to will have to be made substantially longer because the clips are now on the passenger side instead of on the drivers’ side. So add about 5-6 inches to the 4 wires.
Locate the throttle position sensor again and notice the color and location of the wires in the connecter. If you place the 2 sensors face up (part that connects to throttle body) the galant sensor will have 2 pins on the left then a space then one pin (--x-), the outlander will have 1 pin n the left then a space and 2 on the right (-x--). So now that you notice the difference you will have to remove the wire from the connecter using the sewing needle and rearrange them. The black wire goes to the single pin, the brown/white wire goes on the middle pin and the green/white goes to the other outside pin then reconnect the clip to the sensor.
Wiring all done, not too bad right
Reassembly:
This is pretty easy if you took my advice about putting the bolts back in there place if you are going to use the outlander fuel rail and injectors then you don’t have much to do, if you are going use your stock components then now is the time to switch them over
Next put the new intake manifold gasket back on the head
Reinstall the manifold
Hold the manifold while you secure the manifold with the old bolts and nuts (finger tight)
Connect the EGR clips to there sensors they are color coded and they only go on one way so it’s pretty easy. Bolt up the TPS to the manifold.
Reconnect the fuel injector clips
Hook up the FPR to the small vacuum port on the left side of the new manifold
Reconnect the brake booster vacuum line to the manifold
Bolt the ground cable back up to the manifold
Reconnect the coolant hoses to the throttle body
Reconnect the throttle cable to the TB
Get back under the car and reinstall the manifold bracket (4) 14mm bolts
Now you can fill the groove inside the water neck with a gasket making sealant and reinstall it with the (3) 12mm bolts
Torque down the intake manifold bolts and nuts to the factory specs
Bolt up the fuel feed line and clamp down the fuel return line
Now some custom fab work you will have to bend the galant oil dip stick to fit the outlander tube is too short and does not come close to the mounting point when used on the galant. Use an L bracket to secure the tube to the head.
Make sure all coolant and vacuum lines have some type of clamp on them to get rid of leaks there is nothing worse then finishing up a project and finding out you have to take stuff apart again to fix a small mistake that could have been avoided.
Double, triple, quadruple check EVERYTHING you touched during the install once you are sure everything is in its place Start the car. AND YOU ARE DONE
Here are some pictures during the install
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a268/DryBear/8G%20Diagrams/MitsubishiOutlanderIntakeManifol-1.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a268/DryBear/8G%20Diagrams/MitsubishiOutlanderIntakeManifoldSw.jpg