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Galant Evolution
02-04-2010, 09:03 AM
Ok, (long post)

I honestly dont know what to do, even the techs are sayin they dont know. Figured i would post up and see if any of you could think hard as to what is going on. Im STILL getting the vibrations and im clueless. This is so annoying. Ok here we go. I replaced ALL my motor mounts, did a full tune up, wires, plugs and oil change, PCV valve, balance belt, timing belt, still rough. The vibration isnt as bad in the car as it is absorbed by the new motor mounts, but its still way stronger than normal, also when in drive and the E-brake applyed so the car wont move, opening the hood to look at the engine, it surges back and fourth irraticly (sp?), again this is ONLY UNDER LOAD IN ANY GEAR (R,D,L,2,3) in which the vibrations occur, in nutral or park the car has no vibrations present. I know i have an old car and all and it will never run like new im not expecting this, but it shouldnt be this bad as to where the dash still shakes and blurs my vision in the rear view mirror and the radio screen from it shaking so much. As i recall when i first noticed it, it happened all at once, one time i came to a stop and it started vibrating bad.
I have an ALLDATA.com account, i could not find any TSB's or anything related, I have checked vac leaks to the best that i could but could not find anything. Here is the check list of what i have checked:

-TB gasket, did soap water test, and nothing
-TB for crackes, none found
-VAC hoese, couldnt find any, pulled em off and plugged with finger to feel for vac and did water test
-spark plugs, nothing changed
-wires, nothing changed
-motor mounts, lessened up in cabin but the engine movement up top is still the same
-PCV valve, nothing changed
-balance belt, nothing changed
-Timing belt, nothing changed

It seems to be only the head part of the motor shaking and vibrating, im not sure if that is because of the motor mounts holding the engine down tighter down lower, or if it is just related to the head of the engine? The vibration only occurs when under load, never in nutral or park. This is weird also...Sometimes when coming to a stop it vibrates worse than other times. Like today on my way to work i stopped at a light, the vibration seemed ALMOST non-existant, it seemed normal, little vibration but not noticeable to a normal person who is not farmilliar with the car, or passenger. Then at the next light i stopped and it was ok again! i was like awesome!, then the next stop of corse the vibrations are back again just as bad as before shaking everything. So wtf is that about?? I can only think to myself, "it has to be a vac leak because it does it randomly and in different intensitys" But i CANNOT find any leaks or probs! Any advice on how to better check for vac leaks please post or any other info, Thanks!!!
-Tony

RAZ_76
02-04-2010, 09:10 AM
My guess is that you disconnected the battery at some point. When you do that the ECU has to re-learn itself and vibrates like you explain until it e learns everything. Mine does it, not as bad but he vibration is present. Only thing I can think of.

4g63lover
02-04-2010, 09:35 AM
This might not be related at all, or it could have everything to do with it, so I am going to throw this out there. The motor could be choking on fuel or gasping for air so I'd get the MAF checked out.

I don't see you mentioning it but did you replace the vacuum hoses? A bunch of pinhole leaks will give the same result as a HUGE vacuum leak.

Did you remove the Intake manifold when you checked it? It could be cracked from the underside. Most likely not though since you said sometimes the vibration is non-existant.

Galant Evolution
02-04-2010, 10:34 AM
My guess is that you disconnected the battery at some point. When you do that the ECU has to re-learn itself and vibrates like you explain until it e learns everything. Mine does it, not as bad but he vibration is present. Only thing I can think of.

Thank you for your advice and thoughts, but i have disconnected the batery several times, it takes around 70 or so miles for the re-learn to be done, atleast the idle part of it. This has been happening for the last 3,000+k


This might not be related at all, or it could have everything to do with it, so I am going to throw this out there. The motor could be choking on fuel or gasping for air so I'd get the MAF checked out.

I don't see you mentioning it but did you replace the vacuum hoses? A bunch of pinhole leaks will give the same result as a HUGE vacuum leak.

Did you remove the Intake manifold when you checked it? It could be cracked from the underside. Most likely not though since you said sometimes the vibration is non-existant.


Thanks for the response bro. The MAF i have is one i took from a JY. It has seemed to be working ok i can check it out...Maybe ill take off the air filter in my garage real quick and ill see if it still vibrates...by taking off the filter it should be air coming in directly from the MAF sensor so that should solve the questions and concerns about the MAF. Also no codes present. But i also did replace my TPS and im not sure if it can be ajusted? No code on that one tho.
I have not replaced the VAC hoses, but if they wont be way to expensive i will deff replace them all and see, thats a good point about the pinholes.

My intake i have not removed when i checked for leaks, I had cracked my first one at the TB and have had a new one on now for about 3 months..although i did use the old gasket.

4g63lover
02-04-2010, 10:46 AM
My intake i have not removed when i checked for leaks, I had cracked my first one at the TB and have had a new one on now for about 3 months..although i did use the old gasket.

Replace that gasket. It might not be sealing correctly causing a leak between the head and the manifold.

Galant Evolution
02-04-2010, 10:49 AM
Replace that gasket. It might not be sealing correctly causing a leak between the head and the manifold.

I will do that as well as replace ALL my vac hoses. Do you or anyone else know the size off hand? i can prob grab a spool of it at the auto store

4g63lover
02-04-2010, 10:50 AM
I'm not sure what size the hose is on top of my head.

03-Galant-ES
02-04-2010, 11:25 AM
Have you thought of checking your axles as well? I know if axles are shot they can cause vibration.

Cali
02-04-2010, 11:25 AM
i would double check the balance shaft to make sure it's not off 180 degrees....you have to take out a bolt in the front of the block and stick a screw driver, etc to make sure the counter weight is on the bottom (the alignment marks alone won't tell you this)

i'd do a compression check as well.

Galant Evolution
02-04-2010, 11:35 AM
Have you thought of checking your axles as well? I know if axles are shot they can cause vibration.

Really? So at a full stop they will cause vibration? how is this??


i would double check the balance shaft to make sure it's not off 180 degrees....you have to take out a bolt in the front of the block and stick a screw driver, etc to make sure the counter weight is on the bottom (the alignment marks alone won't tell you this)

i'd do a compression check as well.

I asked the tech when he did this and i asked him if he made sure he inserted the screwdriver to lock the shaft and he seemed confused at first but then said yeah...So i think i can check this out again as well. As for the compression test, i did about 3 weeks ago and after 3 turn overs i got 190+ each cylinder, i didnt know how many times to turn over so i did 3. Is this normal?

Galant Evolution
02-04-2010, 12:44 PM
Here is another thought...could it be the tourque converter? It explains why it gets worse as the engine temp raises, and also why it only vibrates hard while in gear. It also has a shudder sometimes when letting off the gas at rpms over 2500, and sometimes hard shifting. Something never mentioned before but could be the cause?

warren
02-04-2010, 01:38 PM
did you changed all four engine mount and check your fuel injector one of them may be gone

warren
02-04-2010, 01:41 PM
or your spark plug cable could be in the wrong hole

Galant Evolution
02-04-2010, 01:46 PM
did you changed all four engine mount and check your fuel injector one of them may be gone

Good idea, how would i be able to check these?? never done that before.


or your spark plug cable could be in the wrong hole

Yeah i will double check but im pretty sure i got it right. Thanks for these ideas!!

mko
02-04-2010, 02:09 PM
If its not present all the time then its not the balance shaft.

Id have to say that your tranny might be going. Do a flush and maybe upgrade the tranny fluid cooler that is located in front of the radiator. Stock ones seem to be very restrictive and do to radiate heat well enough. i bought one from autozone back in the day when i was auto and it helped a lot. these get so hot you cant even touch it

WhiteGalant
02-04-2010, 02:15 PM
i would double check the balance shaft to make sure it's not off 180 degrees....you have to take out a bolt in the front of the block and stick a screw driver, etc to make sure the counter weight is on the bottom (the alignment marks alone won't tell you this)

Damnit man! You beat me to it!

I figured I would try and sound all smart and shit and you stole my thunder. lol

Galant Evolution
02-04-2010, 02:24 PM
If its not present all the time then its not the balance shaft.

Id have to say that your tranny might be going. Do a flush and maybe upgrade the tranny fluid cooler that is located in front of the radiator. Stock ones seem to be very restrictive and do to radiate heat well enough. i bought one from autozone back in the day when i was auto and it helped a lot. these get so hot you cant even touch it


Yeah i think it might be too :-/ How can i be sure though?? any tests you recommend?

mrg7243
02-04-2010, 02:39 PM
5 speed time???

Galant Evolution
02-04-2010, 02:41 PM
YEAH! haah well if this can be fixed and are sure its the trans ill keep the trans, what tests can i do??

Armageddon Sunset
02-04-2010, 03:14 PM
I have the same vibrations you have when its only in gear at a stop, Im assuming its my trans so I just go with it till it blows. will be watching this thread to see what you find out.

Galant Evolution
02-04-2010, 03:25 PM
I have the same vibrations you have when its only in gear at a stop, Im assuming its my trans so I just go with it till it blows. will be watching this thread to see what you find out.


Hmm yeah its most likly the tranny....blows

Armageddon Sunset
02-04-2010, 03:53 PM
start saving for a 5spd, thats my plan.

warren
02-04-2010, 03:59 PM
try taking the plug one by one if you see that one of them when you take it out its not doing anything then that one gone

Galant Evolution
02-05-2010, 12:35 PM
try taking the plug one by one if you see that one of them when you take it out its not doing anything then that one gone


Yeah there all fine...grr

pooprajoe
02-06-2010, 02:10 AM
This might not be related at all, or it could have everything to do with it, so I am going to throw this out there. The motor could be choking on fuel or gasping for air so I'd get the MAF checked out.

here is the money shot, nissan maximas are notorious for having problems with them, same situation as yours it would idle horrible with bad vibrations, and it would sometimes clear up for a day and then another time it would be exactly stop light to stop light. before you spend money on a 5 speed swap as others suggest, try another new maf and please not a junkyard one, usually autoparts stores may carry a life time warranty on these and you will be able to replace it for free next time. (also have you noticed any type of loss or gain in mpg this is another sign of bad maf).

heres 1 way I learned to test for sure is when the car is acting up remove the air filter and place your hand on the maf with it still hooked up car on, move your fingers around giving the car more air little by little and try and rev the car up and see if you notice any change at all... but I'd put money on your maf being bad.

keith6110
02-06-2010, 08:25 AM
i know everyones basically leaning towards tranny. i think that could be it. but why would it still vibrate when its not moving. hows your tach look when you're idling?

If you do feel its your tranny. Make sure you have enough fluid in it to begin with. You need to check it while its in gear and when its warm already. have some one hold the brakes for you and check your tranny fluid. if its low, that can certainly be the problem.

If you find that your transmission has enough fluid while in drive or reverse, take some of it out and add something called: lucas transmission treatment. it works like a dream and gives you smooth shifting again. Seriously tho, low tranny fluid causes rough shifting as well.

This is important. The transmission levels are a quart or more higher when the car is in neutral. You need to check it when its in drive or reverse. you need some one to hold the brake. Don't go trusting a block or something else. lol

-good luck

keith6110
02-06-2010, 08:27 AM
here is the money shot, nissan maximas are notorious for having problems with them, same situation as yours it would idle horrible with bad vibrations, and it would sometimes clear up for a day and then another time it would be exactly stop light to stop light. before you spend money on a 5 speed swap as others suggest, try another new maf and please not a junkyard one, usually autoparts stores may carry a life time warranty on these and you will be able to replace it for free next time. (also have you noticed any type of loss or gain in mpg this is another sign of bad maf).

heres 1 way I learned to test for sure is when the car is acting up remove the air filter and place your hand on the maf with it still hooked up car on, move your fingers around giving the car more air little by little and try and rev the car up and see if you notice any change at all... but I'd put money on your maf being bad.


hey try that as well. didn't even think about the maf sensor.

good call man :thumb:

Galant Evolution
02-08-2010, 09:14 AM
here is the money shot, nissan maximas are notorious for having problems with them, same situation as yours it would idle horrible with bad vibrations, and it would sometimes clear up for a day and then another time it would be exactly stop light to stop light. before you spend money on a 5 speed swap as others suggest, try another new maf and please not a junkyard one, usually autoparts stores may carry a life time warranty on these and you will be able to replace it for free next time. (also have you noticed any type of loss or gain in mpg this is another sign of bad maf).

heres 1 way I learned to test for sure is when the car is acting up remove the air filter and place your hand on the maf with it still hooked up car on, move your fingers around giving the car more air little by little and try and rev the car up and see if you notice any change at all... but I'd put money on your maf being bad.

I will deff try that and idk if its normal gas milage on a 2.4 engine im getting 250ish maybe 270 if lucky mostly highway and some city :-/ I did how ever take off the air filter and with the MAF plugged in i went from park to nutral and it still was horrible vibrations..so i know atleast its not the air filter itself being restricted.


i know everyones basically leaning towards tranny. i think that could be it. but why would it still vibrate when its not moving. hows your tach look when you're idling?


If you do feel its your tranny. Make sure you have enough fluid in it to begin with. You need to check it while its in gear and when its warm already. have some one hold the brakes for you and check your tranny fluid. if its low, that can certainly be the problem.

If you find that your transmission has enough fluid while in drive or reverse, take some of it out and add something called: lucas transmission treatment. it works like a dream and gives you smooth shifting again. Seriously tho, low tranny fluid causes rough shifting as well.

This is important. The transmission levels are a quart or more higher when the car is in neutral. You need to check it when its in drive or reverse. you need some one to hold the brake. Don't go trusting a block or something else. lol

-good luck

Tach reads around 700/800 RPM at idle in eather nutral or park. RPM's drop to 600 RPMs when in gear, although i also noticed that if i stay in gear a while the needle slowly itches higher getting close to the 700RPM mark...sometimes when i come to a quick stop the RPMs will drop below 500 and quickly back to the 600 mark causing the engine to almost stall out. And wow i didnt know that about the trans! i was always checking it while it was hot but in park and the level was right in the middle of "max" and "low"!

Ruslik
02-08-2010, 10:15 AM
i had a problem similar to that it was vibrating
the thing turned out to be my hood one of those rubber bumper/stopper thingys was lost
check that it might help

Galant Evolution
02-08-2010, 10:31 AM
i had a problem similar to that it was vibrating
the thing turned out to be my hood one of those rubber bumper/stopper thingys was lost
check that it might help

Ill check but i dont hear any like metal to metal noise it seems to be something different. Regardless ill give it a look thanks!

Galant Evolution
02-09-2010, 08:17 AM
Checked the tranny fluid, it has small bubbles in it idk if thats normal? the level is correct fluid color was mostly transparent with a little tan color.

KaziKai
03-29-2010, 06:54 AM
Checked the tranny fluid, it has small bubbles in it idk if thats normal? the level is correct fluid color was mostly transparent with a little tan color.

Does it smell burnt?

Siccntwysted
03-23-2011, 01:46 AM
My car has been doing the same thing..I have done about all he has done plus some..(all motors mounts,redone timing belts 3 times to makes sure things set right, replaced TB and all everything modual related attached..lol...intake maniforld..coils,wires,plugs,maf, fuel filter,fuel pump...we thought it was a torque converter maybe thrown a weight..but wasnt it..changed it while we had it out..lol..I notice on mine with its vibration..even while in park..place one hand on throttle body and use other to increase rpm..it will vibrate the living..out of your hand..mine seems to be focused twards the TB or something..yes i even changed it out completely..no diffrence..i'm puzzeled still..also mine ...vibration gets worse the higher rpms...but also while keeping it around 2500-3000rpm like 65-70mph it surges..then after 70 it is fine..but let off around 65-70mph and it jerks and hesitates..it sucks..I'm about to throw it in the trash for real!

Siccntwysted
03-23-2011, 01:50 AM
oh forgot we also replaced CAT..muffler,resonator..lol..never know..lrunning out of parts to throw at it..lol ..thinking about a way now maybe to squeeze this 3000gt vr4 motor in it..when it finaly vibrates out of the engine bay..hahaha

Galant306m
03-23-2011, 02:27 AM
I know this thread was kind of dead but both of you pul your intakes offim fairly certin you both have cracked intake manifolds, when not under load the computer can sort a vaccum leak out fairly easily. When underload it will try so many different compensations that the engine will not run right because the computer can not figure out what the problem is an correct it effectivly

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk

Stewi
03-23-2011, 05:33 AM
I know this thread was kind of dead but both of you pul your intakes offim fairly certin you both have cracked intake manifolds, when not under load the computer can sort a vaccum leak out fairly easily. When underload it will try so many different compensations that the engine will not run right because the computer can not figure out what the problem is an correct it effectivly

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk

I was thinking the same thing myself, not sure how this went 2 pages without someone bringing that up.

tamim13
03-23-2011, 07:34 AM
On reading this thread, I was wondering how come the IAC was not brought up? His RPMS are going down to 500 on gear. I don't think that is normal. I've seen it to be smooth only when it's about 700-800 on gear right? Correct me if I'm wrong. When my IAC went bad, my car used to lurch around on gear as it was idling too low, but was smooth on neutral. How many miles does your car have?

You can do a voltage test on the IAC, check out the service manual.

keith6110
03-23-2011, 07:48 AM
I was thinking the same thing myself, not sure how this went 2 pages without someone bringing that up.

I'm v6 and lack the I4 cracked manifold knowledge lol.

Galant306m
03-23-2011, 12:31 PM
On reading this thread, I was wondering how come the IAC was not brought up? His RPMS are going down to 500 on gear. I don't think that is normal. I've seen it to be smooth only when it's about 700-800 on gear right? Correct me if I'm wrong. When my IAC went bad, my car used to lurch around on gear as it was idling too low, but was smooth on neutral. How many miles does your car have?

You can do a voltage test on the IAC, check out the service manual.

Iac is really only there to create fast idle when a engine is cold it would not cause the problem they are having. Seems like they have a huge vacuum leak to me.

JesterX
04-12-2011, 07:11 PM
I just have a quick comment about checking the trans fluid...The way that was described with someone holding the brake and checking it in gear does not sound like a good idea to me. Check it the way it was meant to be checked, fluid warm, in PARK and on a level surface. If you do that you will be fine. That is the way it was designed to be checked so why not stick with that and not risk running yourself over with your own car because of something stupid?

Rabbi1991
04-16-2011, 11:50 AM
Plus I'm pretty sure the surface level check is meant for park so if you check while it's in drive or reverse it will very likely always say it's too low.

Anthony
04-29-2011, 06:29 PM
thanks for this! i know its old but i bought a mint car with 136k miles to flip for 1400 and i took the switch apart and cleaned it and the car shifts amazing! :) it did NOTHING befor!