Timing belt Question

[KaziKai]

Anyone know the part list for a 8G 2.4L Timing belt, water pump kit, adjuster for the timing belt tenisoner, and the belt for the balancer timing...

I need to change my timing belt... im at 123k miles and I bought the car at 77k... never changed it... So I dont know what all the parts i need... I have a squeeky noise coming from the water pump.. so I know I need to change that.. after reading a few post here and there... I came to a conclusion to just change everything.. and where I can order these...

I went to the only mitsu store in vegas day.. and found that it would cost me $404.63 before tax.. and when I asked to get the model number.. they said they cant give that to me.. so.. anyone know what do I need to change and if you have the part list and if there are other places in Vegas that would be cheaper?

I was thinking of ordering the Timing Belt from mitsu for $45.78 and I was looking on Rockauto.com for parts.. anyone can recommend me to a website or a place where I can get parts cheaper it would be good! Or if anyone can get discounts somewhere..

Thanks!!!

**Please dont Flame me for this** I did use the search bar... :)

[Jeffylou87]

(1) Timing Belt: MD336149
(1) Balance Shaft Belt: MD182295
(1) Timing Belt Tensioner: MD182537
(1) Timing Belt Idler: MD156604
(1) Balance Shaft Tensioner: MD352473
(1) Water Pump: MD976464

[mrg7243]

I recomend rockauto.com for getting parts, ive ordered at least three times, cheapest name for name ive found, fast shipping. I ordered a cat, and they emailed me after i ordered it saying delays were expected cause of the snow, and stocks. I am overall very impressed with them

[varroa]

so what happened to the pictures in the "how-to" on timing belt replacement?

[Jeffylou87]

You should purchase a Haynes manual if you want step by step pictures.

[KaziKai]

You should purchase a Haynes manual if you want step by step pictures.

haha I just did that today.. but thanks! now watch me screw this all up....

[varroa]

yeah i did already. tomorrow, armed with the PDF service manual and Haynes manual, having all replacement items sans the idler pulley, using the two special tools necessary to set the belt tension, i am going to replace my galant's timing belt. i will try to take as many pictures as possible and then will try to post them here.

[KaziKai]

yeah i did already. tomorrow, armed with the PDF service manual and Haynes manual, having all replacement items sans the idler pulley, using the two special tools necessary to set the belt tension, i am going to replace my galant's timing belt. i will try to take as many pictures as possible and then will try to post them here.

That would be sweet! Im going to try to change it using the haynes manual.. Im a noob and watch me F it all up!

[KaziKai]

yeah i did already. tomorrow, armed with the PDF service manual and Haynes manual, having all replacement items sans the idler pulley, using the two special tools necessary to set the belt tension, i am going to replace my galant's timing belt. i will try to take as many pictures as possible and then will try to post them here.

Better yet.. i might just wait till u post them...

[varroa]

yeah... sorry i didn't take many pictures. i'll post what i got, though, later.

the main thing is: you have to have torque wrenches in the range of 88 INCH-lbs to about 80 FOOT-lbs. also you might need an impact wrench (to undo the crankshaft bolt).

you will need AT LEAST the special tool that looks like a little thing with two prongs, and it's best if you have the other special tool that looks like a long bolt. i have both, and if you pay shipping both ways and some kind of safety deposit, i can send them to you on monday or tuesday.

i used all OEM parts: water pump, water pump gasket, crankshaft and oil pump oil seals, small timing belt, big timing belt, tensioner, tensioner pulley, small timing belt tensioner pulley, and service belts.

here's the thing: all manuals tell you to remove that rubber plug and stick a screwdriver in there to prevent the oil pump balancer shaft from rotating, but the truth is, that you don't have to do that. the sprocket will not rotate by itself.

when dealing with the timing belt and water pump, i had to jack up or lower the engine a lot (it was hanging on three mounts most of the time), so it's best if you have a garage with lift AND a jack. you need to have the engine all the way up to even get to the water pump pulley bolts and/or remove the pulley.

while you're there, it's best (imho) to replace any and all oil seals (i replaced crank shaft oil seal and the oil pump oil seal. i wish i had the third, balancer shaft oil seal). it's very simple to do: just stick a very thin and flat screwdriver BETWEEN the shaft and the oil seal and pry it out. but BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO EVEN TOUCH THE SHAFT, as any scratch will cause an oil leak and you'll have to replace the shaft, be it crankshaft or balance shaft. and any shaft is a pain in the ass to replace.

it is very useful to have both PDF and Haynes manuals, because some information is not listed in the factory manual (such as lengths of timing belt cover bolts), and some isn't in the Haynes (torques for most bolts).

also i used Genuine Mitsubishi Long Life coolant, and i could tell that it's at least different in color from the prestone shit, after which i had some rust on the engine block surface. i hope Mitsubishi fluids are better than generic ones.

i tried as much as possible to place bolts from different components into separate zip-lock bags that i marked, in order to know which bolts go where.

when installing the timing belt itself, MAKE SURE there is NO SLACK between crankshaft pulley-oil pump pulley-camshaft pulley. in that order. you have to apply some force to pull the belt over the camshaft pulley. if you don't, then you skipped a tooth and you have a slack somewhere.

the manual says to rotate the crankshaft clockwise two times at the most to align all of the timing marks, but i had to do it three times each time, because that's what it took to align the oil pump sprocket.

if you are going to take off the balance shaft sprocket, or the oil pump sprocket, break free their bolts while the timing belts are still on - it's easier that way. same goes for the water pump pulley: break it free while the service belt is still on.

other than that, it's all basic taking apart and putting it back together. don't forget to TORQUE EVERY AND ALL BOLTS.

if you have any questions, post them here; i check the forum almost daily.


Anyone know the part list for a 8G 2.4L Timing belt, water pump kit, adjuster for the timing belt tenisoner, and the belt for the balancer timing...

I need to change my timing belt... im at 123k miles and I bought the car at 77k... never changed it... So I dont know what all the parts i need... I have a squeeky noise coming from the water pump.. so I know I need to change that.. after reading a few post here and there... I came to a conclusion to just change everything.. and where I can order these...

I went to the only mitsu store in vegas day.. and found that it would cost me $404.63 before tax.. and when I asked to get the model number.. they said they cant give that to me.. so.. anyone know what do I need to change and if you have the part list and if there are other places in Vegas that would be cheaper?
i used the website www.oemmitsubishiparts.com. i found that their prices on average are about 25-40% cheaper than at my local dealership.

i will need this: water pump assembly, little timing belt, little timing belt tensioner pulley, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, timing belt tensioner pulley, and all the oil seals you will want to replace (if they are not leaking, though, they are totally fine and you don't need to replace them). plus you will need both service belts.

out of other things, you will need to buy a lot of shop towels, mitsubishi long life coolant, distilled water (1 gallon both), brake cleaner.

and of course you will need such tools as: all sizes of metric sockets. a few extensions of different lengths. 3/8" ratchet. torque wrenches in the range of 88 inch-lbs to 88 foot-lbs. special mitsubishi tools listed in the manual. jack. impact wrench.

[varroa]

ok so here come my pictures with some comments.

http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt117/zhaopian123/P1020511edited.jpg
here you can see the little timing belt installed. circled red are the timing marks. it is NOT necessary to use the screwdriver trick to keep the oil pump sprocket from rotating, it just won't do it by itself.

notice that the crankshaft position sensor blade is off. to take that off, i had to remove the sensor itself. i also took off the tensioner's arm and thoroughly cleaned and degreased it.




http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt117/zhaopian123/P1020518edited.jpg

here is the mock-up of the new timing belt. notice that it is very loose on the left side (you can see how the belt curves where circled red) and how tight it is between crankshaft, oil pump, and camshaft: everything is very straight.




http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt117/zhaopian123/P1020521edited.jpg

on this picture you see the rubber plug you are supposed to take out in order to screw in the mitsubishi special tool 7938 or something like that (that looks like a long bolt). this one right here, next to that plug:

http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt117/zhaopian123/P1020523.jpg





and this is what it looks like screwed in:

http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt117/zhaopian123/P1020524edited.jpg

everything else is pretty much intuitive and simple, as long as you follow the manual (i followed both Haynes and factory mitsubishi manuals).

[tdybear09]

on this picture you see the rubber plug you are supposed to take out in order to screw in the mitsubishi special tool 7938 or something like that (that looks like a long bolt). this one right here, next to that plug:


What does that tool that looks like a bolt do exactly?

[Mike_ODell]

What does that tool that looks like a bolt do exactly?

X2

is that necessary?

[varroa]

i could've sworn i posted a reply to your questions.

that tool pushes on the tensioner arm to prevent any deviations from the bottom-most position when you are torquing the tensioner pulley down. because, as you know, you have to torque the pulley itself at the same time you are torquing down the pulley bolt. and when you are pushing the pulley against the belt, this action can push the tensioner arm a little bit up, thus taking away from the tensioner's potential to absorb the slack in the timing belt.

i would say it's not REALLY necessary but i would rather have it than not. i mean, is it REALLY necessary to replace the packing around the fuel pump every time you take it out?

you can search for this tool and buy it for about $20 plus shipping online (not OEM, but it worked for me).

[nickmick]

varroa, how did you get the crank bolt off?

[varroa]

an impact wrench. a pretty powerful one, since it broke the torque on the fifth or so impact. i figured it was also strong enough to torque it back down ^_^

btw, if anybody needs that bolt-looking tool, i can loan it out if you leave me with a deposit (which i'll refund) and pay for shipping both ways. but i don't know if it even makes sense to do, since shipping will pretty much cost marginally as much as the tool itself.

[nickmick]

hm. i don't have an impact. gonna have to improvise....

i was thinking of asking where you're located, but since I'm planning on doing it saturday I figured i'd just order it quick. got the timing adjuster as well. $55 incl. 2-day shipping for both tools. oh well.

unless you're local to milwaukee....lol.

[varroa]

no, i'm in brooklyn, NYC right now.

but it's all good. now there will be two geographical points of loaning out those tools for TGC members.

if you have any more questions, just post them here, i'll try to recall as much as i can.

oh, make sure you got a quality torque wrench.

[varroa]

also, for improvising taking off the crankshaft bolt: the rumor has it, you can press the breaker bar against the body and crank the engine a couple of times.

the wrong things i see with that is: 1) wearing down the starter too much, 2) how are you going to put the bolt back on?

try to borrow an impact wrench from autozone or something like that.

[seth98esT]

Your doing it wrong.

1) Remove the flywheel inspection plate.
2) Stick a flat blade screw driver part way between the flywheel teeth
3) Turn the crank with a socket until the screwdriver is resting against the bottom of the block
4) Give her a couple quick pumps and the crank bolt will come loose.

I have never had a problem doing it this way. For reinstalling the crank bolt, do the same thing, except the screwdriver will be on the opposite side of the block.

Also, you don't want to "torque" bolts with an impact.

PS.
I have never used the Mitsu special tool to compress the auto tensioner. Just unbolt it, get a clamp to compress it and put a cotterpin in it, then reinstall. But, if you are re-using an old auto tensioner, you are doing it wrong again.

This is the tool that goes in the tensioner pulley to tighten it.
http://www.toolsource.com/timing-belt-wrench-chrysler-jeep-dodge-mitsubishi-p-92748.html

You can get around this with an L allen key, vice grips, and a normal socket wrench.

[varroa]

very, very nice advice as far as crankshaft pulley nut goes. thanks.

now, that special tool is not used to compress the auto tensioner. one is supposed to use vice grips to compress it.

actually,
that tool pushes on the tensioner arm to prevent any deviations from the bottom-most position when you are torquing the tensioner pulley down. because, as you know, you have to torque the pulley itself at the same time you are torquing down the pulley bolt. and when you are pushing the pulley against the belt, this action can push the tensioner arm a little bit up, thus taking away from the tensioner's potential to absorb the slack in the timing belt.

i would say it's not REALLY necessary but i would rather have it than not. i mean, is it REALLY necessary to replace the packing around the fuel pump every time you take it out?
the reason i think it is beneficial to use it, is because without it, you run a pretty good chance of using a portion of the tensioner's potential tension to compensate for the "slack" created by a free-moving tensioner arm.

i hope i explained it well.

[galantebeige]

I was pretty successful with Seth's advice.

And this last part is indeed very difficult to explain, but it becomes very obvious when you are in it.

let me try: imagine a ruler. The pulley is over 5. As you tight the bolt, it will move to 4, 3 ( to the left) naturally, but you want it to stay in 5, so yo need to somehow keep it from moving as you tighten the bolt. You can do the allen key to pull it back to 5, or the special tools to set it right.

I did this last year and my memory is fuzzy but I believe it was like that. I bought all parts from the Mitsu dealer, there was not much difference against the onlines with shipping, plus the good parts were made in Japan (timing belt).

[nickmick]

F*CK! TH*S!!!

lol, it was so easy. so, so easy....until I got to the crank bolt.

i had some spare bar lying around so i fashioned up a tool to hold the pulley while i wrenched on it.

i tried:

breaker bar.
breaker bar with extend-o-pipe.
breaker bar with torch and extend-o-pipe
walked over to neighbor and borrowed a Milwaukee Electric 120v 6.2amp impact.
120v 6.2amp impact with more heat.
searched internet to see if it's a f-ing reverse thread or some bs.
gave up.

i'm gonna bring it to a buddy's auto shop and try to break it loose with an air impact. re-tighten and bring it home and continue.

also, fyi, i don't think there's a flywheel inspection plate on automatic models. i could be wrong. i spent most of my time standing on a breaker bar.

[seth98esT]

i could've sworn i posted a reply to your questions.

that tool pushes on the tensioner arm to prevent any deviations from the bottom-most position when you are torquing the tensioner pulley down. because, as you know, you have to torque the pulley itself at the same time you are torquing down the pulley bolt. and when you are pushing the pulley against the belt, this action can push the tensioner arm a little bit up, thus taking away from the tensioner's potential to absorb the slack in the timing belt.

i would say it's not REALLY necessary but i would rather have it than not. i mean, is it REALLY necessary to replace the packing around the fuel pump every time you take it out?

you can search for this tool and buy it for about $20 plus shipping online (not OEM, but it worked for me).

I have never used that tool. Once the pulley is tensioned and you turn the crank 8-10 times to get the marks lined back up, wait 10 minutes, if you can't pull the grenade pin out of the auto tensioner, and put it back in with relative ease, you do not have correct tension on the belt.

[galantebeige]

That crankshaft bolt is actually the toughest part of the whole operation. The inspection plate is half moon shaped (cut a pizza in half shape), very light, and it sits on the opposite side (not under) the engine/transmission blocks), When I say opposite: think of a dice. If the crankshaft bolt is on the number one face, the inspection plate is laying flat on the face for number 6. I think 10mm screws hold it in place.

That is where goes the screwdriver that is supposed to stop the whole thing from moving. The only thought I have about this is that if the crankshaft bolt is sooooo tight, the screw driver "may" cause a hinge/dent on your flywheel as the flywheel is not that robust/solid. You might want to consider placing something between the flywheel and the screwdriver...

The bolt is indeed loosened by going counter-clockwise.

[nickmick]

That crankshaft bolt is actually the toughest part of the whole operation. The inspection plate is half moon shaped (cut a pizza in half shape), very light, and it sits on the opposite side (not under) the engine/transmission blocks), I think 10mm screws hold it in place.

That is where the screwdriver that is supposed to stop the whole thing from moving goes. The only thought I have about this is that if the crankshaft bolt is sooooo tight, the screw driver "may" cause a hinge/dent on your flywheel as the flywheel is not that robust/solid. You might want to consider placing something between the flywheel and the screwdriver...

The bolt is indeed loosened by going counter-clockwise.

lol, i just confused the h*ll out of myself.

carry on...

[galantebeige]

I edited my above post, I hope for the better....

[Joshua42007]

Hey do you guys think this is a good price for this Timing Belt kit?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170330992503&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

[Sphinx]

Bump! I need to take care of mine and the Ebay kit looks like a God send. Any comments?

Sphinx

[mrg7243]

i got the timeing belt ket from rockauto.com, but that didnt have all that it just came with the two belts and the idlers and tensioners. I have yet to put my on thoiugh cause of that damn bolt

[varroa]

Sphinx: for that money, did you try to look into OEM parts? Go to oemmitsubishiparts.com or a similar website and put together a list of parts you need for the "kit".

I think it will cost you almost as much to do OEM.

I've purchased a water pump, both timing belts, both service belts, tensioner, tensioner pulley, balance shaft timing belt pulley, crankshaft oil pump and camshaft oil seals and the valve cover gasket for probably around $400 plus shipping. <- All that - OEM Mitsubishi.

And let me tell you, there might be no difference between OEM and some aftermarket water pumps, because they are made by the same company, but there is a huge difference in quality of the timing belt and pulleys.

When i was replacing the timing belt last time, i took off all the aftermarket parts (timing belts, both pulleys except for the idle pulley). Both belts looked ok but not as well as the old OEM belt that i took off a few years earlier.
Also, both aftermarket pulleys had the lube leaked from the seal (they have sealed bearings), not like the old OEM pulleys from the last time - they were spotless and just a little dusty.

It's your money and your car, and you decide what parts to get (thanks, captain obviuos), but i would recommend OEM, especially if the price is marginally higher.

[nickmick]

so i went to my buddy's shop and got that bolt lose. put it back on to spec.

now i gotta wait a few weekends cause i don't have the time.

here were my prices (all are +tax)

$42 - timing belt
$17 - balance shaft belt
$71 - new water pump

[Sphinx]

Thanks for the good info varroa!

Sphinx

[galantebeige]

I would strongly recommend replacing all FOUR belts, and the water pump is desired.

+1 with varroa, price is not so different so why not do Mitsubishi original parts? I am NOT a dealer lover at all !!!, but I decided to buy from them when the price seemed about the same. After all it is a business in my city, and I guess we need/desire some Mitsubishi presence to be wherever you are.

And I said this before in this thread, the quality was really good. Japanese made. The aftermarket website was cheaper, but with shipping, it was not worth it.

[Sphinx]

Four belts? I only paid attention to the two ...
*breaking out the Chilton*

Sphinx

**the alternator, power steering, A/C, timing**

[varroa]

alternator/water pump belt
AC/power steering belt
timing belt
balance shaft timing belt

[Sphinx]

Thanks! LOL My Chilton guide is pretty f'n vague at times

[varroa]

download the factory service manual

[gofer03]

Quick question, will removing the crank bolt turn the crank counter-clockwise or no?

[nickmick]

gofer, the crank bolt is a normal thread. so, turn the bolt counter-clockwise. you won't get it off with a wrench, trust me. i rented a Milwaukee electric 120V impact for ~$16 from True Value.

i just did the belt this weekend. wasn't terrible. the long threaded rod is pretty useless, all it does is hold the auto-tensioner lever down. the other special tool comes in handy for setting the tension. necessary, probably not.

btw i got insanely lucky, I've been meaning to change the belt for about 5-7k miles now. bought parts a few months ago (May). didn't get around to it. last week friday car shut off on the way to work....fuuuuu.....well luckily it didn't snap completely, instead it started to wind itself around the crankshaft sprocket and it just bound that up. so everything stayed in time.

[gofer03]

Yeah, I'm gonna rent that impact. I attempted to do this two weeks ago but that dang crank bolt delayed my repairs. Quick question, when you took the crank bolt off did you do it while the crank pulley was still on or did you remove the crank pulley and then remove the crank bolt with it still being on the crank sprocket? If so what did you use to keep the pulley/sprocket in place? I'm curious because I'm looking in the manufacturer manual and it says to remove the crank pulley and hold the crank sprocket with a special spanner while you loosten the crank bolt. That tool is expensive to buy, but I would rather spend money on that than new head (lol) and pistons. Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance.

[GSpeed]

Just had timing belt replaced at dealership (02 Galant 3.0-V6). Idle is now very rough and check engine light is now on. Has anyone experienced this after having new timing belt installed? Any idea what may be causing this? Will double check vacuum lines and spark plug wires. If nothing is found, back to dealership I go!

[GSpeed]

Checked vacuum lines and electrical connections (the locations I could access anyway). Checked okay. I did notice however, that a spark plug wire boot was labeled "6" in white out (by mechanic I assume). It's labeled "6" and the OEM cable had 4 marked on it as did the distributor cap. Same for OEM cable 4 (has "4" marked in white out on wire boot but marked 6 on cable and distributor cap) Will also double check these wires are going to correct cylinder. Appears this may be causing issue rather than an issue with timing chain. Will swap and see if engine idles better and Check Engine Light clears.