Distributer Rotor blade..

[JiP]

Is the blade on the rotor always a straight 1" or so of metal? Just changed my cap and rotor today the new rotor was like that, my old one had like 3 sections, so if it was suposed to be a straight peice of metal, that means it just burnt giant gouges into it. just curious..

[IllestGalant]

it should be a slightly curved, but all flat piece of conductor metal. Did you buy an aftermarket rotor? What about the distributor cap, is that okay?

[JiP]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(IllestGalant)</div><div class='quotemain'>it should be a slightly curved, but all flat piece of conductor metal. Did you buy an aftermarket rotor? What about the distributor cap, is that okay?</div>

Cap was in pretty good shape but I replaced that as well. Both are from whatever company Autozone has https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif I never buy mitsu parts unless I have no other choice. $25 for cap n rotor with that conductive gel shit from autozone. Probably $80 from mitsu lol

[IllestGalant]

i thought the same way about price until i had to due a tune up and I used standard, that is the brand name "Standard" like two weeks later the rotor was shot and the cap was cracked. Used mitsu and damn, what a difference. You would be suprised at the quality difference, looks are deceiving

[JiP]

Ah I think im sellin the car anyway I cant fix this gas mileage problem and no one else can figure it out.

[IllestGalant]

what do you mean, know one can figure it out. I will, how many miles are on the car, what gas are you using, how many miles per gallon are you getting, and how do you drive.

[JiP]

about 55k on the car, 94octane. on average I get about 14mpg. two weeks ago a full tank of gas got me only 130miles, thats like 9 miles pergalon. I used to get about 22-24mpg if not more.

[pinoyesv6]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(JiP)</div><div class='quotemain'>about 55k on the car, 94octane. Â*on average I get about 14mpg. Â*two weeks ago a full tank of gas got me only 130miles, thats like 9 miles pergalon. I used to get about 22-24mpg if not more.</div>

u sure no1 started siphoning ur gas lol.

[JiP]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(PinoyESV6)</div><div class='quotemain'>u sure no1 started siphoning ur gas lol.</div>

Lol I been dealing with this problem for months since early september of last year, if someone is they are persitant mofo's

[IllestGalant]

did you notice that it occured after any of the mods you have done to your engine compartment?

[JiP]

Only two things in the car at the time were short ram and air filter, and an AFC. Almost everything you could think of that would cause bad gas mileage was checked out and everything in spec. Compression test, cats removed (thought it was a dead cat), fuel filter, spark plugs, etc... cap & rotor were the last thing. Only thing I havnt checked is the timing with a light gun and the only sensor left that would affect gas mileage is the o2 sensor, I hav not changed that because my meter shows normal o2 readings. AFC was pulled out, aside from some gauges in the car I only have 4 mods, short ram, battery in the trunk, 60mm tb, and no cats. I think I'm gona put everything back to stock, except the TB. The TB mod didnt chang the gas at all I was thinking it might mak it worse but it didnt so i'll leave that, the rest of the things will take only 2hrs to put back to stock so its not really a major deal And then track things from there. I would like to just give it to a mechanic but I cant afford it, and I'm almost positive there just gona randomly change things like o2 sensors and crap and then just charge me for everything, which I could just do myself.

I havnt done a leak test as someone suggested once that maybe the intake gasket was shot and leaking, but I doubt thats a possibility at all, compression test were way good, o2s are normal, car runs wierd sometimes, like today it was kinda slugish, but yesterday it was mad fast and quick to respond to throttle.

[IllestGalant]

okay, so the car runs sluggish and everything appears to be okay. Pull of the vacum hose on the fuel pressure regulator and tell me if you smell gas...

[JiP]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(IllestGalant)</div><div class='quotemain'>okay, so the car runs sluggish and everything appears to be okay. Pull of the vacum hose on the fuel pressure regulator and tell me if you smell gas...</div>

Car doesnt always run sluggish though, out of no where it will be slugish one day then the next day its a fast as it usually is.

Stupid question but do I pull the hose while the engine is running and smell for gas or while its off? And sniff for gas around the fp regulator area?

[JiP]

Well I read some sites that said if the FPR gets stuck open your fuel pressure obviosly drops and it could cause bad gas mileage..why that is I dont udnerstand but ok..

I pulled the vaccum line and didnt smell any gas fumes. So whats that mean? Was the point that by pulling the line the FPR if working properly would keep itself closed with no vaccum and raise the fuel pessure way up in the rail and Id smell gas leaking out, so the fact that I dont smell any gas means the FPR is stuck open and failed?

Clue me in here https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif

[Kain]

When it comes to the distributor cap, don't cheap out. The Mitsu part is $30 and is vastly superior in quality to any cheap aftermarket part. I worked at a shop that used only NAPA parts. We changed people's distributor caps about every 2 years, because they had been obliterated. I took the original cap off my '94 last year, and the only thing that was wrong with it is I had accidentaly dropped my ratchet and cracked it. Also get the rottor button (up until now known as the rotor blade) from the dealership $7.

[JiP]

The cap n rotor I got from autozone are exactly like the mitsu one, if you brought it to mitsu they would think its one of their oem parts. Besides im swappin to coil packs soon anyway I just wanted to fix my gas mileage, and that didnt do it.

[IllestGalant]

okay, the fuel pressure regulator vacum hose doesn't smell like it has fuel in it so the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm isn't leaking so it is working okay. how are your spark plugs, are you using platinum or copper and are they gapped properly? we will get to the bottom of this jip!

[JiP]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(IllestGalant)</div><div class='quotemain'>okay, the fuel pressure regulator vacum hose doesn't smell like it has fuel in it so the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm isn't leaking so it is working okay. how are your spark plugs, are you using platinum or copper and are they gapped properly? we will get to the bottom of this jip!</div>

Diaphram isnt leaking..but how can I check the the FPR is actualy operating as it should?

Changed them to platinum +2 a month or two ago. Wires are good also.

[IllestGalant]

you need to hook up fuel pressure gauge at schrader valve on fuel rail and apply a vacum gauge to the fpr and apply a vacum and watch for changes in the fuel pressure. 99 times out of 100 the vacum line has fuel in it or smells like fuel if it goes bad, that's all a fpr is: a diaphragm

Is your engine loud? does it sound like a lot of air is under your hood like a bad vacum leak, and do you notice any funky smells?

[JiP]

I put the stock airbox back on and also dumped the platinum plugs for cheap coppers and i was back up to 24mpg again. But my o2s were wierd so i reset the ecu and while the ecu is learning its dumping 16% fuel. So we'll see if it goes back to 24mpg like it was before I reset.

I duno if it was the airbox or the plugs that did the job. All I know is I put brand new platnum 2's in 2 months ago to try and fix the gas problem they didnt do shit.

[IllestGalant]

well, from what I hear, the copper plugs don't last as long, but they burn the air fuel mixture more efficiently. I believe this is true. Besides, it takes what? three and a half minutes to do a tune up on our cars :wink:

[JiP]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(IllestGalant)</div><div class='quotemain'>well, from what I hear, the copper plugs don't last as long, but they burn the air fuel mixture more efficiently. I believe this is true. Â*Besides, it takes what? three and a half minutes to do a tune up on our cars :wink:</div>

Actually ive heard the opposite. I heard platinums dont last long and I'm sidding with that argument becuase I can my platinums spark is horribleafter only 2 months of use.

I take it your running platinums? what company and wat type 2,4?

[Kain]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(JiP)</div><div class='quotemain'>
Actually ive heard the opposite. Â*I heard platinums dont last long and I'm sidding with that argument becuase I can my platinums spark is horribleafter only 2 months of use. Â*

I take it your running platinums? what company and wat type 2,4?</div>

I'm running platinum plugs in mine (Splitfires! https://www.thegalantcenter.org/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif ) And I pulled them the other day after 10K miles of use/abuse and they still look exactly like they did when I put them in. 1 had to be regapped from 50 to 44 thousandths. I was impressed. I pulled the coppers outta the van after only 9k and they were almost totally destroyed. Bad test I know, but that's what I've got to go on. I still don't really think platinum is worth the $$$

[pinoyesv6]

many of the new cars including the 8g v6 use platinum plugs. one of the main reasons they do is because of their long life span. for my car they say every 60k, on my dad's truck they say 10k but yea both are platinum plugs. but i guess it varies for application to application

[JiP]

Thats wierd. My copper plugs that I originaly had in for way over 30k where in decent shape. The platinums got carboned up really quick. I think their Bosche wich I know everyone usualy hates maybe thats why.

And yes the coppers were in for 30k and still in good condition.

I will put the ones I got in there now after 10k see what tey look like. Coppers are cheap anyway cost wise, having to change coppers more often then plat. it probably comes out about the same price.